I was wondering if you could post detail pictures of your adapter and mark the holes for the trans with tape so that I can see how they are connecting the trans to the adaptor plate and how many bolts they are using also if you know who made your adaptor. Kennedy makes an adapter for the ecotec for the g50 and vw trans and they make an adaptor for the ecotec for the ls which is like the one you have. I need to supply them with the location for the starter pocket so that I can use the stock ecotec starter.
Sure I can do that for you. I can take some high res photos with a ruler.
I bought the adapter from "The Race Line" but he mentioned it was made by someone else.
I am still trying to figure out what fasteners i need to attach the engine to the trans. I messaged "The Race Line" but haven't heard anything back for a few days. The adapter is drilled and tapped but i would prefer they tell me what to use. The kit from "The Race Line" said it came with bolts but its missing alot of the required bolts... its possible there will be another shipment.
I was wondering if you could post detail pictures of your adapter and mark the holes for the trans with tape so that I can see how they are connecting the trans to the adaptor plate and how many bolts they are using also if you know who made your adaptor. Kennedy makes an adapter for the ecotec for the g50 and vw trans and they make an adaptor for the ecotec for the ls which is like the one you have. I need to supply them with the location for the starter pocket so that I can use the stock ecotec starter.
Thanks Mike
You will see the adapter in the next post (posting in the next few minutes). The adapter bolts to the engine with 7 bolts and the trans bolts to the adapter with 8 bolts. I bought the adapter from Eric (The Race Line). I'm sure he could set you up with one. The adapter is a few inches thick (aluminum) and the flywheel sticks out more then 2 inches from that. This is required to leave room for the starter wheel but also allow the clutch to insert into the bell housing.
The bolts that hold the adapter plate to the engine (if i remember correctly) are M8 bolts, I can measure the length if you want but that would depend on the thickness of your adapter plate. The bolts holding the transaxel on are all M10 however they very in length as the transaxel base is not a consistent thickness.
If you want i can get the calipers out and measure the thickness of the adapter place and flywheel. I think it would be pretty hard to duplicate without VERY accurate drawings, the tolerances are very tight.
I would recommend this upgrade: http://vraptorspeedworks.com/serpent...ulley-support/
I never used the stock set up from Factory Five, but heard of that long bolt bending with heavy accelerations. Have any others used the factory five setup (serpentine belt pulley support) with out it bending?
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
Good idea, interestingly the aluminum spacer is now in two parts, Regardless i will still need to remove the thickness of the 14ga steel out of the longer aluminum spacer piece.
I have to order a bunch of parts from Vraptor, maybe i should figure out all the parts i need from him and make one big order.
**I just noticed that you mentioned that you have sold your car..... what happened there?
I am going to have to make more time moving forward.
Volunteered to help build a garage... weekends lost. IMG_1368.JPG
Volunteered to help remove a 25 Kva generator from a multi million dollar home because the owner let me keep it. IMG_1387.JPG
After talking with the guy in that home he mentioned that he had a quad trail on his property that he wanted to use but it was now overgrown with trees. So he bought me a new chainsaw as payment to clear out the trail that covered 150 acres of land. I underestimated the time required for this, but it was a TON of fun. (and I got a free chainsaw :-))
I received my first order of Vspeedworks parts and they are really nice ( I needed the shifter mounts, figured I should order a few more parts while I was at it) IMG_1390.JPG
I found this diagram that shows how to mount the slave, etc. IMG_1319.GIF
This is how I plan to get someone to help me lift it up. IMG_1382.JPG
This weekend I am heading out camping (last time this year as the snow is already starting to fall here).... I hope to invest more time in the weeks to come.
Trans is now attached to the engine. (two of us just lifted it up and bolted it in).
Now there are some new problems to solve.
1) the shift linkages will need a custom mount created and welded together. The factory trans holes wont work. IMG_1405.JPGIMG_1406.JPG
2) Back to the problem I was having with rear tire alignment. The problem has to be one of two things. 1, the tie rod end is to short, 2, the tie rod itself is to short. Maybe they are not factory. Can someone check there set and let me know which one is right. The rear tie rod is 4.75 inches long, the front tie rods are 9" long. by my calculations the right length would be around 7.25". The tie rod itself is 12.5 inches long, measured from the plate it bolts into to the threads that the tie rod screws into. (see pictures). IMG_1409.JPGIMG_1411.JPG
3) (didn't take any pictures) The trans doesn't fit into the GTM rear trans mount. The trans mount is 1/2 or so thicker then the G50 mount that the GTM comes with. I will have to cut off the factory trans mount tabs and weld them back on a little wider.
The trans will have to go up a little higher because the trans adapter hangs down under the car. IMG_1416.JPG
Now I need a welder but first the welder plug. I made it to the hardware store 10 minutes before it closed and picked up the Nema 6-50 plug and what I though was the right sized plate. The store was closing so I had to move fast.... I guess I grabbed the wrong one, I will have to go back tomorrow. IMG_1419.JPGIMG_1420.JPGIMG_1421.JPG
I am going to pick up a buddies Hobart gas mig this week, the plan now is to create cardboard templates of the brackets that I need to make, I will then take those to my friend to cut out on his CNC.
$500 Cad by the time it gets to my door but i feel that its worth it. I was just reading crash's notes in another thread about the amount of force that gets put on the linkage. Oh well, another day another $500
Lit myself on fire yesterday while running the grinder, took a look down and saw that my hoodie was on fire. That was fun. No injuries though but the garage still smells like burnt hoodie.
i fixed the welder plug as well, i had to make a custom mounting plate because the hardware stores around my house don't carry what i needed.
Last edited by tanderson1; 10-14-2015 at 05:48 PM.
Almost a month in and the Bump steer kit hasn't even been shipped yet.
New rubber bushings for the radiator have been over 3 weeks without being shipped.
I bought some new tools to assemble the CV's, those are MIA. (couldn't find the tool locally)
hope some orders will be here soon so i can resume progress.
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
Pretty productive day, I will try and post some photos tomorrow (I have a few hours tomorrow to work on the car as well).
Brake lines and clutch lines are in although I need to buy a few new fittings because I stripped out the T that goes on the front brake master. The ones from FFR seem a little cheap, I will pick up a better quality one. The kit also didn't come with enough brake line to finish the clutch and brakes. The manual mentions different lengths of brake line however I only received 60" lengths. So I will have to go to the store to pick up another couple of feet to finish the last rear brake tomorrow.
I disassembled both corvette axels and cleaned all the axel components of all grease. I mocked everything up so tomorrow should be smooth sailing. I still don't have the banding clamp pliers that I ordered so I wont be able to do up the CV boots (that's the tool I was talking about)
The radiator rubber bushings came in today, Once the brakes are all bled and tested and the windshield washer fluid container is in tomorrow I can get that all mounted.
So for tomorrow:
Washer fluid tank install
radiator install
Mount axels in car (assuming I can find the tool locally)
Ebrake lines
Shifter mount (I bought the Vraptor pieces, I just need to weld them in)
This leaves:
Coolant lines
Fuel system
(rear bump steer kit still hasn't arrived)
Rear mount for transmission (have to weld something up)
Attaching the wiring harness (premade)
Wheel alignment
Then I can gocart... I am getting excited about gocarting :-)
When installing the coolant lines make sure that the larger one is your suction line. It will be the one that goes on the passenger side, if I remember correctly. In my manual (paper and E-book) it had the smaller line as the suction line.
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
When installing the coolant lines make sure that the larger one is your suction line. It will be the one that goes on the passenger side, if I remember correctly. In my manual (paper and E-book) it had the smaller line as the suction line.
Thanks Edgeman, I still have that marked in my book from when we talked on the phone. :-)
I mounted the battery tray and washer fluid bottle. I will use a small piece of tube with a bolt though it to secure the top of the washer bottle. That will ensure that it doesn't move at all. I drove all over town looking for the last fittings for the brakes, turns out no one carry's brake line fittings anymore because "there is no money in it". I went to 5 automotive stores and received the same response at each one. (I ordered them off Amazon, should be here soon). In the meanwhile i used the fitting that came with the master cylinder and the T that was supposed to be used at the back of the car. Works great. IMG_1656.JPG
My buddy was over, he welded in the VSpeedworks cable shift mount kit that i bought. Fit perfect, was short one bolt (kit comes with 6 bolts, requires 7 if you follow the pictures on the site). IMG_1661.JPG
This is the welder that i had to wire into the garage, works amazing. IMG_1664.JPG
I finally figured out how to mount the shifter cables to the trans. Turns out the bracket that came with the trans is a perfect fit. I just had to remove the bracket flip it over 180 degrees and put it back together. Not sure how i didn't see that before. IMG_1666.JPG
the rear bump steer kit that i bought 2 months ago still isn't here yet. I was told it shipped over a month ago, I have called the company that I ordered it from 5 times, they seem to have no idea where it is. I might have to cancel the Visa payment on it and cut ties with that company to get my money back.... ARRGGG.
I started putting on the front bump steer kit. I don't quite understand how its supposed to go together or how it would help with bump steer. It mounts in the same way the factory unit mounts and has almost the same clearance. I also don't see how it would be adjustable... is that what all the washers are for? is that how it adjusts? If so it doesn't adjust by much.
I finished putting the axles together and got stuck on the Porsche side clips. Only one C Clip was in the box... I needed one more 1" clip, once again i hit every automotive store around me and turned up nothing. I had to order a kit containing 300 clips for $8 off the internet, that should be here soon as well.
I think i'm going to have to install the AC lines next before the coolant system because its easier to climb in the front without the radiator.
IMG_1665.JPG
The shifter mounted a little different then the images on the vspeedworks site http://vraptorspeedworks.com/cable-s...g-bracket-kit/. My shifter ends about 1" more forward then the images on that site. Not exactly sure why but I am tall, that comes with long arms so 1" further away from the seat might be a good thing.
IMG_1668.JPG
This banjo fitting doesn't have a bolt so i will need to buy one. The manual simply says "use the supplied bolt"... not sure what it was supposed to be included with. (I have two slave cylinders, i didn't get a bolt with either)
IMG_1670.JPGIMG_1671.JPG
Axles fit right in, I just need to put some thread lock on the bolts and get them locked down.
IMG_1678.JPG
The rear bump steer kit just arrived, postmarked from last Tuesday (3 weeks after i was told it was shipped...) regardless its here and looks great! Now i just need to get all the bolts locked down.
Brake lines are now 100% complete, I will pick up some brake fluid on the way home from work tomorrow.
Now is the time to safety wire the CV joint bolts to the transaxle. It becomes harder to get to when more stuff gets installed. They have a tendency to loosen.
Now is the time to safety wire the CV joint bolts to the transaxle. It becomes harder to get to when more stuff gets installed. They have a tendency to loosen.
good idea, thanks. I don't think the bolts had holes in them, nothing a drill press wont fix. :-)
First the current road blocks... The Medeola slave cylinder uses an M10 banjo bolt and banjo fitting that came with the GTM. I used G96 transmission that seems to use an M12-1 banjo bolt and fitting. I visited 6 automotive stores none carry M12... all carry M10.. I guess M12 is not common. I ended up ordering an M12-1 bolt from Vancouver if it fits I will pick up the fitting from the internet somewhere.
Safety wire was hard to find but i finally found a shop that carried it. I also bought the fancy spinning pliers because i can never pass up an excuse to buy a new tool.... I also bought 3 new torque wrenches and 3 new ratchets.
I picked up almost all of the required fluids like coolant, Dot 3 brake fluid, engine oil. However i still have to pickup transmission fluid, seems most people on line are very picky about what they use.... I think i might pick up transmission fluid directly from Porsche.
IMG_1713.JPGIMG_1714.JPG
I bought my fuel pump/filters/mounts/regulator/rails and most of the required fittings for the fuel system.
If you are using a Mendeola transaxle, then you should be talking to Ian and using what Mendeola recommends. I know for the transaxles we run from them we run a combination of Neo and RedLine fluids and it has worked VERY well. I have put the Neo fluids in the other street vehicles I own and had good results.
If you are using a Mendeola transaxle, then you should be talking to Ian and using what Mendeola recommends. I know for the transaxles we run from them we run a combination of Neo and RedLine fluids and it has worked VERY well. I have put the Neo fluids in the other street vehicles I own and had good results.
The trans is a G96 Porsche.. I might just pick the fluids up from Porsche, lots of Porsche forums seem to recommend that.
I received an email from Ted at Quick Racing Products. It turns out he is out of fuel tanks and Ron isn't making them anymore. He mentioned that he might be able to talk Ron into making more tanks if we could get a group buy together. He thinks we would need to order at least 5, I replied to his email, i assume he is talking to Ron before getting back to me.
First the current road blocks... The Medeola slave cylinder uses an M10 banjo bolt and banjo fitting that came with the GTM. I used G96 transmission that seems to use an M12-1 banjo bolt and fitting. I visited 6 automotive stores none carry M12... all carry M10.. I guess M12 is not common. I ended up ordering an M12-1 bolt from Vancouver if it fits I will pick up the fitting from the internet somewhere.
I don't quite get it. If you are using a Porsche transaxle, then why do you say you are using a "Mendeola" slave cylinder?
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
I have been thinking about traction control as i am thinking about going with a new LS7.... I am thinking about building a traction control system by hand... this ones quite the novel so it gets its own thread. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...106#post222106
I started off the weekend by filling/bleeding the brakes. I had a 2 air leaks that took me a while to track down. The first was in the fitting at the top of the master cylinder which caused me to have to rerun the front brake line. Once the leaks were gone the lines bled easily.
I locktite'd, torqued and safety wired the axels. This process took no less then 6 hours. The drilling of the bolts took the majority of the time. Most of my drill bits are brand new and couldn't make a dint in the hard bolts using my drill press. I bought a set of BigDog bits a while back at tradeshow, they worked like MAGIC for about 3 bolts before the titanium ends broke off. They were able to drill through the bolts like butter. I bought safety wire pliers which made short work of actually getting everything wired up.
I then took the time to adjust the CableShift unit so i could get through all the gears without the shifter hitting sides or bottoming out the cables. I then spend the next 10 minutes or so sitting in the drivers seat shifting gears while making vroom vroom noises with my daughter, its a toss up for who had more fun.
I shifted focus to the ebrake, the one from the doner was covered in rust so i soaked it in rust remover IMG_1771.JPG
This is the after shot. (about 2 hours later) IMG_1772.JPG
It wouldn't fit because it was quite bent. I don't think this is factory, i think someone must have bent it by pulling WAY to hard. IMG_1774.JPG
I bent it back to flat and then a little bit more in the other direction so it clears the center console. IMG_1780.JPG
Connections to the rear went together as planned.. IMG_1791.JPG
Where have people been mounting this piece. I saw that Shane has a kit but it wont fit because my starter is in the same mounting location. IMG_1792.JPG
I shifted my attention to the AC lines. I started by putting in all the lines loosely (heater/AC) IMG_1784.JPG
I could not get the evap unit to sit where the manual says. Upon further investigation (by watching FastThings videos) i saw that it mounts better just behind the coolant tank. The reason i couldn't get the unit to fit there was because i used the 6" extension as the manual stated.... i will be removing that 6" piece, which is a shame because it was a ***** to get it in there in the first place. IMG_1788.JPG
The heater lines come with fittings that turn 90 degrees. why? it seems this would be easier to plumb if they were straight fittings. IMG_1789.JPG
These seals were in the box with the AC pieces... what are they?
were they supposed to go on the AC compressor fitting?
Does anyone know what these are for. IMG_1783.JPG
I also have a few parts on order
1) I ordered the heater bypass solenoid from Crash's website today.
2) Fuel tanks should be finished this week and shipped out (they are being custom made by Boyd's). They have AN fittings and a fuel pickup in the drivers side and a sending unit on the passenger side.
3) Aeromotive fuel rails should be here next week
4) M12 banjo bolt and fitting for the clutch
I head out to CES (Tradeshow) on Tuesday, back for a few days then off to Bett in London (Another Tradeshow), back for a few days then off to ISE in Amsterdam (yet another Tradeshow)..... so it might be a while before i post another update. :-) I do plan on getting some Traction control planning done in my other thread while traveling.
Last edited by tanderson1; 01-03-2016 at 11:18 PM.
so i have been off traveling for work for the last month... back now and ready to get back into it.
lots of parts arrived while i was gone,
the aluminum fuel tanks from Boyd
the heater bypass kit
the rest of the fuel system fittings
the M12 banjo bolt for the clutch
Tonight i went to a local car show then came home and finished the clutch plumbing and bleeding. I was shocked to see a GTM at the show. It was in about the same state as mine, not quite running but almost there. It looked like a twin turbo LS7 setup, its all being built by a local shop, doesn't look like the owner is doing anything himself. I grabbed the shops card so i can try and get a hold of the owner later.
I worked for a month straight without weekends or evenings so i have a few weeks of time off saved up, the current plan is to take a week off next month to focus on finishing the gokart.
I have everything between me and gokart in a checklist now, I made it though a small portion of that list today.
I had to remove the rad to get the drill to mount the grounding strap. (I should have mounted this earlier, whoops) IMG_2599.JPG
I mounted up the rear trans support cut the old brackets to fit the new transmission and tack welded them in place. This is where i ran into a problem that i am still scratching my head on how to fix. The bolts that need to go though the bracket and trans are now blocked by the square tube that runs down, I think my only option is to cut the square tube, weld in a smaller tube that fits inside and then drill a bolt hole though. This would allow the metal thats in the way to be removed, bolt put in, then reattached. IMG_2602.JPGIMG_2603.JPGIMG_2605.JPG
Gas tanks look great. I have been reading about how to mount these... i'm not a big fan of the 2x4 method, wood seems wrong somehow. IMG_2607.JPG
this is the clutch banjo and flexible line that i ended up with. Its all bled now. IMG_2608.JPG
I took apart the donor gas peddle, painted it black, mocked it up, drilled the holes, put in the rivnuts, now just waiting for the paint to dry before mounting one last time. IMG_2611.JPG
I hope that he has traction control! It looks great but with this light of a car, might be a waste. JMHO.
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
1) i welded new transmission mounts the other day however its impossible to get the bolt in because the support was in the way. I welded two new braces on and moved the support forward 3" on the passenger side. Repainted everything and put it back on the car again. Problem solved.
2) I had a stupid moment and put the eccentric bolts in and mounted all of the suspension before i put the aluminum foot boxes in. I had not noticed that i had the bolt in the wrong way around so it can never be removed. It just so happens that the pieces i bought from Shane have to be welded to the bolt that now cant be removed. So....... I had to drill out a fair amount of rivets, removed the bolt, and then put them all back.
3) the brake line supports prevented me from installing the floor aluminum, had to drill out those rivets, mount the floor aluminum then put it all back.
4) the clutch master cylinder leaks where the reservoir plastic meets the metal cylinder.... I have tried to fix this 5 times with no luck before today. So today i took it all apart, hit the plastic with a heat gun like the instructions originally asked for until the plastic was softer. I then remounted it and cranked the crap out of the bolt that holds it on. Refilled and bled the system again. I then put a piece of paper under it for a few hours...... no drips yet.
We live and we learn.... today wasn't a step backwards but it sure as hell didn't get me any ways forward.
I ordered these parts today from Chev
- Another Starter bolt (I need two of the factory longer ones for the new starter)
- Metal mount for EVAP canister
- Bolts for exhaust manifold
- Exhaust studs for mounting headers GM dealership, GM# 12561310.
- Bracket that holds the brake light switch (forgot to take this off the donor)
Still have to find.
- transmission fluid (the gear oil everyone recommends on the Porsche forum's isn't available in Canada)
so by my calculations this is whats left before i can drive it around the block.
check that i mounted down all steering bolts.
find bolts that will fit though the new trans mount.
finish front aluminum,
rivet radiator down again.
attach the heater lines again
Fill with coolant
Find a way to finish the emergency brake. (I will have to order a longer brake cable, its good enough for now.)
Mount aluminum pieces that go beside the fuel tanks.
Mount fuel tank (not going to use a 2x4)
Mount pump+filters
plumb fuel lines
Fill engine with oil.
Fill Trans with oil. (have to buy it first)
grease all zerks
install new plug wires. (i have them in a box.... somewhere)
Mount Starter, (new bolt is on order)
Mount clutch peddle stop (read the forum post where this caused damage when it was missed)
Mount ECU, (I already modified the bracket)
Run wiring harness. (I bought a premade one, this should be quick)
Mount the seat (sliding rails are $250 each side locally... i might have to hit a junk yard to see what i can find.)
Exhaust (just the factory/GTM stuff for now, I have to buy the kooks)
So i took a week off work to work on the car. From my previous list these items are now complete.
Check that i mounted down all steering bolts. (torque to spec, with thread lock)
Find bolts that will fit though the new trans mount. (starter bolts fit perfect)
Finish front aluminum,
Rivet radiator down again.
Attach the heater lines again
Fill with coolant (24 litres in there so far, once the engine starts i bet it gets to 30ish)
Mount fuel pump+filters
Mount fuel rails
Create metal mounting point for the fuel regulator
Create a metal floor to mount the fuel pump to on the drivers side)
Create a metal plate to mount the engine bay fuses to.
Fill engine with oil.
Grease all zerks
Install new plug wires. (i have them in a box.... somewhere)
Mount Starter, (new bolt is on order)
Mount ECU, (I already modified the bracket)
Run wiring harness. (I had to change a few ends but i would highly recommend buying a premade one like i did.)
Exhaust (just the factory/GTM stuff for now, Kooks ordered)
Aircond, finish plumbing
These items i missed off my last list are also complete
Engine Grounded (had to buy a few grounding straps for engine/trans)
Fix clutch leak at slave
Fix brake leak at reservoir
Drained the old oil, replaced the filter
Replace the broken bolt on the suspension and find a bolt for the cable shift bracket.
Created block off plates for the air system on the exhaust
Plugged the EGR tubes on the intake
Basic alignment (using tape measure, to be fixed by the pros later)
Install the heater bypass valve (I think this came from crash's site, i bought it a while ago)
These items are still left (but most of these are not stopping me from starting it)
Mount clutch peddle stop (Visited a few hardware stores and came up with a plan, just have to install it)
Wire the radiator fan in. (harness is done but i don't have the connectors for the fans, ordered new ones off Ebay, will be here soon)
Mount the seat (ordered rails from Amazon, not delivered yet)
Fill AC lines. (R134a doesn't seem to exist in Canada anymore, all the kits i can find are 22a, Walmart seems to sell R134a online, i will try that)
Install some kind of fusable link between the engine and the starter/alternator (big positive cable beside the exhaust scares me)
Fill Trans with oil. (Found on Amazon for $40 a litre, its a rip off buy my only choice, i ordered it)
I lost (or maybe never took off the donor) the MAF sensor.... cant start the car without it. (ordered a new one)
Find a way to finish the emergency brake. (I will have to order a longer brake cable, its good enough for now.)
Mount aluminum pieces that go beside the fuel tanks. (have to drill them for the cross over pipe)
Mount fuel tank (I bought a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 rubber at a local hardware store, I will cut a few 2x4 style strips out of it to build a rubber version of the wooden 2x4 that everyone seems to use)
Secure down each of the fuel line connectors
Mount the pillow bearing by the peddle box, the current FFR part isn't large enough to mount the bearing, i will need to weld some new metal on.
I also had my 2 post lift fail which took about 5 hours to fix. The passenger side of the lift stuck fully extended and wouldn't go down, but the drivers side did go down. The car was sitting VERY crooked, I could have dropped the car if I wasn't paying attention. I had to prop up the system with a 2x4 and a floor jack. I then tried to fix the high pressure line fittings that were leaking.... While i did fix the leak the jack would still not descend. I then figured out that i had to much rear weight after the engine and transmission were installed, that was causing the part of the lift that moves up and down to push against the rear of the housing with a TON of force. I jacked up the rear of the car and with a loud BAMM! the whole thing settled onto the safety stops again. Once the car was back on the ground i was able to re-position the jack points, grease the inside of the lift and test it again. WORKS! Was a very stressful couple of hours as the car could have slipped off and fallen 6 feet to the floor. (it was sitting pretty crooked until i could get it to dislodge)
I have completely planned out the fuel system, everything is mocked up now with the proper AN connectors and nice stainless steel braided hoses. I should have done more research on the costs associated with the aluminum tanks mixed with proper AN connectors. So far the fuel system alone has set me back about $5000, that's for rails, tanks, AN ends and fittings, filters, pump, regulator, gauges, hoses, chrome mounts, etc. However if a had to do it again i don't think i would change a thing..... except for the bad planning that left me with tons of extra hose and AN fittings.
I think the best part of this progress was how much floor space i gained in the garage. Its now easier to walk around the car and work.
I will post some pictures of the GTM when i get home tonight.
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