RustlesRoadster

[russelljones48]

I looked too and they are definitely on my "list". Thanks for the recommendations

[russelljones48]

Can anyone tell me what "stock" bell housings would work with the Coyote/TKO600 combo in the Mark IV? Car will be pretty much street only so a used BH could save me quite a bit of $$$$

[stevenburgess]

Check kings mk4 build and message him about his headers. I still need to call him red same

[russelljones48]

I am also interested (without starting a religious war) in opinions on what clutch to use. I'm interested in a good "value" clutch - cost is important. Car will be mostly street driven and will be driven occasionally by my wife. I'm starting with cable actuation.

[bansheekev]

I am also interested (without starting a religious war) in opinions on what clutch to use. I'm interested in a good "value" clutch - cost is important. Car will be mostly street driven and will be driven occasionally by my wife. I'm starting with cable actuation.

The clutch topic for the Coyote crate motor goes like this - the flywheel that comes on the crate motor is a 9 bolt flywheel (clutch pressure plate uses 9 bolts). There are very few clutches available for this flywheel. There are two options I am aware of for keeping the Ford Racing provided flywheel:

1) OEM Mustang clutch which are ridiculously expensive.
2) Mike Forte has figured out a combination of a pressure plate and disk which is reasonably priced that work together. He sourced each of the two parts separately and sells it as a kit. I do not know the manufacturers or ratings but he can elaborate.

If you choose to change the flywheel to an aftermarket one (like something from Ford Racing) that is a 6 bolt flywheel you have a lot more options in the aftermarket. Problem is that the price goes up as a decent billet steel flywheel is over $300 before even considering a clutch. As a side note - I decided to swap flywheels to a billet steel one from Ford Racing and use a 11" dual friction Centerforce clutch also from Ford Racing. I have seen many people go the Mike Forte route successfully as well.

Kevin

[russelljones48]

Thanks.... guess I'm going to go count the bolt holes on the flywheel and then go count my money :-0

[bansheekev]

I consider myself pretty seasoned at building and modifying cars and did a pretty thorough budget plan before starting. When I was done, I added $10k. I came in $12k over the calculated number. So for my actual budget I came in only $2k over which isn't too bad.

Enjoy.

Thanks.... guess I'm going to go count the bolt holes on the flywheel and then go count my money :-0

[Mike N]

Russell

I have been very happy with my Spec clutch set up, not a Coyote but similar HP and higher torque. For a stock Coyote I would seriously consider this clutch. http://www.specclutches.com/652079/s...sf501-9-521382. The spline count may need to be changed for the TKO but Spec will take care of that for you. If you might consider any power adders in the future go with the stage 2. That's what I have and even with an aluminum flywheel it's very easy to drive.

[russelljones48]

For some reason the stage 3 is cheaper than the stage 2? http://www.specclutches.com/650294/s...sf503-9-528802

[russelljones48]

Mike (above) has found and uses a "SPEC" clutch. They offer several for the Coyote in a 9 bolt configuration and at reasonable prices.

[bansheekev]

Mike (below) has found and uses a "SPEC" clutch. They offer several for the Coyote in a 9 bolt configuration and at reasonable prices.

Oh what a difference a year makes! There wasn't anything available a year ago from the aftermarket for the 9 bolt flywheel. This certainly makes your life easier than mine. Things like this for the Coyote are becoming more mainstream as time goes by.

Kevin

[Mike N]

For some reason the stage 3 is cheaper than the stage 2? http://www.specclutches.com/650294/s...sf503-9-528802

The stage 3 is a pretty aggressive clutch and not something that you would want the wife to have to deal with. Stage 1 or Stage 2 would be more than adequate with a stock Coyote. The stage 2+ starts to get a little more aggressive.

[russelljones48]

Thank you all for helping me to run down my options. Stage 2 Spec looks like the way I'll go. Given that the Coyote is generally underrated I will opt for the "better" clutch. Off to the junk yard this am to pick up the Mark VIII rear end and deliver it to the rebuilder... Guess I saved a little $$$ there :-)

[russelljones48]

So, yesterday was a good day!!
The upper control arms arrived! Still no steering rack, but I can get started now. Thank you all for your advice and the benefit of your experience. I think I've decided on the drive train. Spec now makes a 9 bolt clutch so, I'm going with that - I got a good recommendation, the price is reasonable, and I avoid having to buy a flywheel. Ford racing bellhousing, and TKO 600. Picked up the Mark VIII rear, got it disassembled and the rebuilder has it, so I have most of the driveline pieces too. Gotta few orders to place but I think I've made good choices. We'll see...

[WIS89]

RJ-

Sounds like you have a good plan, and the pieces are arriving. Now, it's off to the races. Good luck on the build, and I hope it goes well.

I look forward to reading more updates!

Regards,

Steve

[Al_C]

Slider / Kevin - do you have a website for the stainless headers? Not sure what vendor this is... I'd like to explore them further.

[Bren]

Slider / Kevin - do you have a website for the stainless headers? Not sure what vendor this is... I'd like to explore them further.

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/index.aspx

I got a set of stainless headers from them. They have excellent quality and customer service and reasonable pricing. Highly recommended.

[russelljones48]

So, FFR is shipping the missing pieces as they get them. I now have the front A arms, the tie rod ends and my Simpson belts.. still no steering rack, but I am able to start (when my garage gets warm enough :-) Thank you Factory Five.

[russelljones48]

So my brother still has my old (10yr old Actron) scan tool and I've decided that I need to upgrade and bequeath the old one to him. Cars in the house: 2011 Porsche C4, 2011 BMW M3 (the wife's ride), 2011 Ford F150 6.2 (Raptor) and a 2014 5.0 Coyote for the Factory Five Roadster I'm just starting to build. Kids that are local have a mix with a couple of >1996 BMW's 3 series, a Jeep Cherokee and a 2009 Mazda MX9?.

My budget is <$500 and I have a Ms Surface tablet and a laptop so I could go with a software based solution. I'm just getting back into "building" cars - having only done maintenance and minor upgrades on my cars for the last 25 years. My research is leaning towards the Innova 3160 @ $190 but I thought I'd ask for advice and experiences here.

Russell (Rustlesroadster)

[russelljones48]

So, I went with the Innova 3160 hand held for the time being. Good recommendations and I used it on my Porsche and did a baseline for fuel trims. Device works well. Can't say the same for the directions on how to get online with it and read/record your results. Took me a couple of trys and a couple of hours but ultimately, I got the right software on my laptop. $190 on Amazon.

With my upcoming Coyote build I'm still looking at "real software" for the laptop but it's pretty pricey with 4 vehicles and 3 makes... since we have 2 Fords I might start with just that package....

[russelljones48]

So, I happened to "stumble on" a 2003 gas tank and decided to try it. The basic tank looks exactly the same as the older unit but it has a smaller diameter filler neck with anti-siphon and rollover valve. Since the smaller tube might solve the interference problem that the earlier/fatter neck has it seemed like it was worth the effort and small outlay. Does anyone have any experience with this later version of the tank? Have I wasted some time and money?

[Jeff Kleiner]

The chassis is designed to accommodate any tank up to 2004. You'll need the appropriate cover and straps. When using the later tanks the rear of the right side strap attaches to the horizontal tab visible in the trunk.

Jeff

[russelljones48]

Jeff,

Thanks - that helps!! I got the cover and straps with the tank, so I should be set.

Russell

[russelljones48]

Now that I know I can use the tank - does anyone have a recommendation for an "in-the-tank" pump that will meet the needs of a stock Coyote? Note: I don't want to spend much more than $200. Thanks.

rj

[Mike N]

What is the fuel system for the Coyote crate motor? Does it have a fuel pressure regulator or is it returnless? For a FPR system a stock type replacement 255 lph in tank pump would be more than adequate. Never worked on a returnless PWM system so can't help there.

[2bking]

Now that I know I can use the tank - does anyone have a recommendation for an "in-the-tank" pump that will meet the needs of a stock Coyote? Note: I don't want to spend much more than $200. Thanks.

rj

The kit didn't come with a hanger bracket for the fuel pump so this fuel pump and bracket is mustang OEM. The Coyote requires a minimum of 155 lpm and I think the stock pump will deliver that. But not knowing for sure, I also bought this 255 lpm pump to replace the one on the bracket. Both of these together are a little over your $200 budget.

[2bking]

What is the fuel system for the Coyote crate motor? Does it have a fuel pressure regulator or is it returnless? For a FPR system a stock type replacement 255 lph in tank pump would be more than adequate. Never worked on a returnless PWM system so can't help there.

The Ford Racing crate Coyote with the Ford Racing Controls Pack requires a fuel pressure regulator and a return line to the tank because the PCM doesn't monitor fuel pressure.

[Mike N]

Thanks King.

Does the Coyote come with the FPR or do you have to source one yourself? The reason I ask is because I have a truck project that I am seriously considering a Coyote motor for.

The stock FOX Mustang fuel pump was 88 lph which was OK for the 225 HP back then but not for the Coyote. I have used the 255 lph Walbro pump in mine and the stock hanger /sender since I built it back in 2000 with no issues.

[russelljones48]

Thanks guys,

This helps. I do have the entire stock unit - still in the tank, so a replacement pump is what I need. FF recommended an inline LS1 Chevy fuel filter/regulator - it's the one they used for their Coyote build. I can't find the part number in my morass of old emails but I've asked Tony and FFR to give me the number again. I'll post here when I get it.

Russell

[russelljones48]

Tony Z. was very quick. Here's one on ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...Text=&_sacat=0

GM part no. is: 910-12807 $35.00

Thanks Tony!!

[Mike N]

Is the Coyote a 58 psi pressure system? The old 5.0 motors were 40psi.

[russelljones48]

This is from an earlier post here and confirmed by a couple of Google searches...

I just talked to ford racing. They said that they have new instructions and they are going to start contacting everyone that bought a coyote. The fuel pressure should be set to 55 psi with no vacuum line connected to the regulator.

rj

[bansheekev]

This is from an earlier post here and confirmed by a couple of Google searches...

I just talked to ford racing. They said that they have new instructions and they are going to start contacting everyone that bought a coyote. The fuel pressure should be set to 55 psi with no vacuum line connected to the regulator.

rj

Is there any background / explanation of why the change?

Kevin

[russelljones48]

Kevin,

That "I talked to Ford Racing" was a quote from an earlier post here. I did not call FR but did the Google searches which confirmed the 55PSI setting. I'm a ways away from the fuel system so I will recheck when I do that install.

rj

[bansheekev]

Got it now. I already knew about the 55psi setting - there have been a couple revisions to the Coyote install / controls pack documentation from Ford Racing. I have the latest version and it calls for 55psi.

What I actually mis-interpreted was the vacuum line statement. I read it as meaning no vacuum line should be installed at all. Not setting it at 55psi with no vacuum. My bad. What I still am curious about though is that I thought the process for setting fuel pressure was to do it when the engine was not running at all - just key on to run the fuel pump. This statement seems to imply setting it with the vacuum line disconnected and the engine running / idling? Anyone have insight here?

Kevin

Kevin,

That "I talked to Ford Racing" was a quote from an earlier post here. I did not call FR but did the Google searches which confirmed the 55PSI setting. I'm a ways away from the fuel system so I will recheck when I do that install.

rj

[russelljones48]

Kevin,

I don't know the answer to this one. Re-reading this though I thought of a couple of resources who might know. Trevor Scrogins on FFCARS comes to mind first. He is on his second "Coyote" and is very knowledgeable on setting this motor up.

Russell

[russelljones48]

OK, before i throw in the towel and cut out the FFR rear mount......................

I am using a '98 lincoln irs with the ford racing cover/girdle - this cover has a cast "boss" on each side of the cover that houses the "pins" that brace the axle girdles - and it just doesn't want to go in. We've tried 4 times unsuccesfully with 4 different sets of hands and eyes. Does any one have some guidance?

I see 2 possibilities: 1. Cut out the rear mount and fabricate a removable mount or 2.) Cut out the cross brace that holds the forward mounts for the gas tank and install from the rear?

There are a couple of examples of the removable mount but I haven't heard anyone removing the gas tank brace - that would appear to be much easier to do.

rj

[2bking]

I have the same cover on mine and the aluminum pumpkin. I think the aluminum housings are larger than the steel ones. Either that or the IRS cages aren't all welded with the same clearances. I was pretty certain it wasn't going in and tried all the other orientations possible also. I ground a little off the places where it was rubbing while trying to install it and was able to force it through the hole. I used an overhead hoist to pull it up from the bottom which made it a little easier.

[russelljones48]

After weeks of house guests and frustration with the pumpkin mount, Monday and yesterday were productive days! Made my decision and started on the removable rear mount - A "Shout Out" to Mikeinatlanta on FFRcars for the pics and idea!!

I built a template out of luan for the removable rear mount and took it out to a local metal supplier yesterday and they cut me a back piece that fits the triangle formed by the X tubes and bent me a Z brace to fit over the 1X4 - all for $37.50!! All I need to do now is cut the mounts out and get the pieces welded up. However, my welding skills are now 30 years gone and they weren't that good to start with. So, I have to trailer it somewhere to get the welding done... or find someone with a portable welder. Hope to find that portable welder since I haven't yet purchased a trailer

I'd also like to know if FFR will sell me a set of the mounting brackets so I don't have to try and use the ones I cut out...

rj
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[russelljones48]

Tire selection? The Toyo Proxes R888's I had hoped to run - 245-45-17 on the FFR 9" front rims have been discontinued. They still make a 235-45-17 and a 255-40-17. Can I run the wider tire? The tire is .4" wider (9.6 vs 10) and .7 shorter (25.7 vs 25). Anyone have any experience with these sizes on the M4? How do they look and how about the tires themselves? They are rated quite well. The 235-45-17 is much closer to the discontinued tire but a little narrower and shorter. Note: Car will have manual steering.