Not Another Build Thread

[Mark Dougherty]

so did the sunbeam tigers

[mjazzka]

Got an update for y'all.

Painted the Upper Intake
20150620_143811 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Cut my own EGR delete plate
20150620_143932 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Started Engine Assembly!
20150621_120304 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150621_120314 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Nice and pretty distributor
20150621_170343 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr



20150621_211213 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

Assembled and mounted front calipers and rotors
20150623_205716 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150623_205727 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150623_211021 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

More engine assembly
Camshaft installation
20150717_170239 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Crank all cleaned
20150717_174605 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Installed
20150717_183307 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Topsides
20150717_194039 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

Pistons good to go.

20150717_210936 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Ready for pistons!
20150717_210943 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

All in!
20150718_135656 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Could not for the life of me figure out what this was. Quick call to Mark D. and I found out it's the distributor hold down. Might need it
20150717_235207 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Oil Slinger. It slings oil.
20150718_141849 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Pickup and harmonic balancer installed
20150718_164938 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150718_164944 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

Bead rolled sides of trunk. Looks good!
20150724_162542 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

FINALLY finished assembly rear calipers... These things are a ***** and a half. one of the worst designed pieces of equipment to work on I've ever seen.
20150724_175510 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Had a ton of help for this past weekend! Getting the heads and valvetrain on.
20150724_233100 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150724_233109 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Gas tank clearance for adding a trunk below the hatch. Got almost 7" of space.
20150725_112348 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Big brother helping me out with my undercar exhaust modification...
20150725_112919 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

Lower intake on.
20150726_160134 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150726_160141 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Valve covers, fuel rails, water pump added! This is where it's at right now.
20150726_221320 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150726_221327 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150726_221337 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150726_221345 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20150726_221355 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

And that's all for now! Drilled a bunch of holes in the hatch aluminum as well, though. I am picking up my IRS and trans from the shipping company this week, and then I should have all parts needed to build the thing except A/C and wheels! I've been waiting on stuff to develop until now, but it should just be limited by how much I can get in the garage, which is usually a lot thankfully. I am actually also limited by waiting on the undercar exhaust mod too though, before I can start putting in aluminum for good. But there are myriad other things that I can do now!

Also, I had a wonderful group of family and friends come and work on the car this weekend, and what is a project like this without those you love? I feel truly blessed by Him!

[crossle45f33cf]

A couple of questions.
Did you paint your distributor cap?
Is there a reason the internals of the engine look to be dry, as in unlubricated?
Other than that it's looking great!

[mjazzka]

A couple of answers.

I did paint the distributor cap. Are you worried about mistimed spark plugs through paint electrical conduction? I must admit I was, although I made sure there was no paint on the top of the posts where the connections are. Maybe that's not enough though

The internals look unlubed from the pictures at first glance, but if you click on them you'll see it. The lube I used was Stalube, it's really dark gray out of the bottle but is pretty much clear once spread evenly. I also did all the bearings, so there should be plenty of lube on there.

[crossle45f33cf]

Michael
Yes, that was my concern.
If, after you've started it up, you have a problem with ignition miss try this.
At night start the car up and turn off all the lights in the garage.
If the engine is missing you'll frequently be able to see where the spark is grounding.
I've seen some that were putting on a real light show!
The spark was going everywhere but where it was supposed to.

[mjazzka]

Haha that sounds like a good time!

I think I've decided to take preemptive action and sand down the paint near the plugs. It'll be covered anyways! Thanks for the concern and support

[CraigS]

I know I am really too late to ask this but...what are the vertical lines visible in several of the bores in the block? See your post #48 and the picture labeled 'Camshaft Installation'.

[6t8dart]

Michael,

Everything looks good, but I have a few suggestions for you.

1. I saw where your cylinders are scored, you will have a loss of power and it will smoke a little. I recommend that you have it bored maybe .030 and get a cheap set of replacement pistons.

2. Your heads are on backwards, swap sides, the EGR ports go in the back (make sure they are plugged if you are not using them), all the front brackets may or may not line up properly. Swap left to right, right to left. You could also leave it as is, but make sure you plug the EGR ports if they are in front, or you will be chasing an exhaust leak that will overheat you alternator.

[mjazzka]

I know I am really too late to ask this but...what are the vertical lines visible in several of the bores in the block? See your post #48 and the picture labeled 'Camshaft Installation'.

Those would be some scores lol. Yeah they are there, but my engine guy said they would be ok for what I'm doing with it. I'll give him a call and double check. Thanks Craig!

[mjazzka]

Michael,

Everything looks good, but I have a few suggestions for you.

1. I saw where your cylinders are scored, you will have a loss of power and it will smoke a little. I recommend that you have it bored maybe .030 and get a cheap set of replacement pistons.

2. Your heads are on backwards, swap sides, the EGR ports go in the back (make sure they are plugged if you are not using them), all the front brackets may or may not line up properly. Swap left to right, right to left. You could also leave it as is, but make sure you plug the EGR ports if they are in front, or you will be chasing an exhaust leak that will overheat you alternator.

1. I hope I don't have to get it bored, but I might! As I told Craig above my engine guy said it shouldn't be too big a deal for what I'm doing, but of course any scoring is bad scoring. I'll make sure though, especially since you and others have brought it up several times.

2. Hmm, I already plugged the backs with 5/8" 11 bolts. One of the bolt heads broke off though unfortunately, making it look odd. How do I know they are on backwards exactly? What size are the bolts for the front brackets? It looks like the things inside the ports on the front have threads, so I assumed those were for the front bracket bolts. Maybe I need to take them out? Thanks for your help and concern, I appreciate your input!

[mjazzka]

It's been a little while since I've been able to work on the car a lot, work has gotten in the way unfortunately.

Differential installed, rear suspension begun!
20150914_202631 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Transmission painted & ready to go.
20150901_202645 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Anyone know what to do with the spaces on the rear LCAs? The manual is terrible in this regard. The front and the back both.
Front
20151012_200715 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr
Back
20151012_200720 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

What about this gap for the top of the shocks, is that all good?
20151012_200915 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Replaced all the bushings in my rear knuckles, painted them, mounted them as well as the CV joints and the upper control arms and rotors.
20151014_223804 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20151015_141216 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

I got the wheels a while ago, but have just mounted them! Some bad boys right there. Width on the rear of the car is 58.25" (need 59" according to manual), and the right side tire is getting close to the passenger aluminum, so I'll be taking .5" out on the passenger side tire and .25" on the driver side. If anyone has tips on this let me know.
20151015_141206 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Mounted front wheels. Calipers look sweet. The sunlight will really make these wheels pop.
20151015_141142 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

With wheels on all four corners. A roller! Only 8 months in LOL.
20151015_192626 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Also started fuel lines.
20151015_174118 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Rear routing
20151015_232346 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Routing to the tank. Need some more quick connectors to finish it off, can't find the ones from the donors.
20151015_232327 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Engine bay.
20151015_175126 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

Also mounted the brake booster and master cylinder with some spacers. Might need to shorten them from 3/4", I'll see when I finish hooking up the brake pedal. Still need to get the brake pedal switch for the clutch safety.
20151015_193359 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Mounted rear calipers and ran the e-brake cables. Is this good routing, or is it in danger of rubbing? Thanks
20151015_232359 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

e-brake from below, what do ya'll think about routing?
20151015_232414 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

20151015_232428 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

It's been a little tough getting back to it, but this week I really got in the groove. A few of the other threads on here have inspired me a little, there is a lot of good stuff going on in this forum!

[wallace18]

I really like those wheels and tires, wink wink! You have great taste! LOL.

65176.JPG

[mjazzka]

I really like those wheels and tires, wink wink! You have great taste! LOL.

65176.JPG

Haha yep, you know EXACTLY where I got that inspiration! They look great on yours, so we'll see how they look on mine. Saw you're doing another 818 build, you are living the life!

[mjazzka]

Got a lot done these last two or three days, did the fuel lines AND the brake lines!

Tried to see if this location would work for the vapor canister.. turns out it won't because the right side of the hatch aluminum will hit it. So I do need to redo that, but other than that the fuel lines are all done lol.
20151021_113817 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Mounted caliper in the sunlight, this is what the color will really look like in the sun.
20151021_171321 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

The brake lines are completely done. I think. Here is everything from the MC.
20151023_001946 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr
20151023_002045 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

The front passenger side line routing. Followed the manual here.
20151023_002003 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

From the bottom to the T of the rear brake line
20151022_214434 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

T for the rear brakes. Got a little tight on that bend, but everything worked out nice.
20151023_002024 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

The rear passenger side line routing.
20151023_002019 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[wallace18]

Looking good! I found a smaller canister in a local u-pull it boneyard. I mounted it under the rear in front of the tank. Sorry I do not have a picture though. I remember the canister was from a Mazda.

[MPTech]

Brake & Fuel lines look GREAT! I like your routing on the front brake lines across the main tube (but you know I'm biased!)
Finishing them feels really good, doesn't it!
Build is coming along nicely, good job! Some nice mods going in too.
First start is getting closer

I don't know if this helps, but I read a lot of posts about the vapor canister and decided to try it without first, I could always add if needed. I drove it for a year in gel-coat and didn't notice a fuel smell after I had it dynoed and tuned, so I didn't install one. With a SBF and EFI, it may not be necessary.

Anyone know what to do with the spaces on the rear LCAs? The manual is terrible in this regard. The front and the back both.

Didn't know if you addressed this yet, but there should be a whole bunch of thin washers you will want to install to take up the slack.

What about this gap for the top of the shocks, is that all good?

Also, don't want slack here. Look for more spacers or call FFR.

[mjazzka]

Looking good! I found a smaller canister in a local u-pull it boneyard. I mounted it under the rear in front of the tank. Sorry I do not have a picture though. I remember the canister was from a Mazda.

Thanks Tom, I hadn't thought of using a different one! I might even be able to keep it in the same spot then.

[mjazzka]

It feels REAL good! Unfortunately I'll be out of town for the next three weeks, but it is great knowing that electrical is next and I am going to plan as much as I can before I come back. The goal is to have the thing running by Dec. 31st.

I've decided I may actually go with side exhaust for a while, since I have all the stuff for it and it should be easy and quick. And now I have the hard part of the undercar exhaust done anyway (the two tubes welded in the chassis), I can always go back to undercar when I have the time.

I am going to have to talk to FFR about the spacers, I put in all the ones I had and according to the manual, and almost all of the IRS parts have mounting gaps of 1/4" or more still. I have no idea why, but we'll see! Thanks for letting me know to get rid of the space, I'll find a way haha

Brake & Fuel lines look GREAT! I like your routing on the front brake lines across the main tube (but you know I'm biased!)
Finishing them feels really good, doesn't it!
Build is coming along nicely, good job! Some nice mods going in too.
First start is getting closer

I don't know if this helps, but I read a lot of posts about the vapor canister and decided to try it without first, I could always add if needed. I drove it for a year in gel-coat and didn't notice a fuel smell after I had it dynoed and tuned, so I didn't install one. With a SBF and EFI, it may not be necessary.


Didn't know if you addressed this yet, but there should be a whole bunch of thin washers you will want to install to take up the slack.


Also, don't want slack here. Look for more spacers or call FFR.

[Timb]

Thanks Tom, I hadn't thought of using a different one! I might even be able to keep it in the same spot then.

Before you settle on placing it there make sure you account for the fuel fill. The angles between the pipe and the cap in that area can be really tight. I know on mine that canister would be right in the middle of it

[mjazzka]

Hmm, well in that case even if I can get a smaller one it might be prudent to move it under the trunk, and it shouldn't be too much trouble at all. I'll take a look at yours to see how. Thanks Timb!

Before you settle on placing it there make sure you account for the fuel fill. The angles between the pipe and the cap in that area can be really tight. I know on mine that canister would be right in the middle of it

[mjazzka]

About to make hopefully my last major purchase for the Coupe (besides paint and legal things), the A/C unit. I'll be going with the North Racecars unit, it seems that most people have great luck with it and a lot of people have done it. Also getting some rivnuts to make taillight access ports in the hatch, as well as for easy access on the footbox and maybe some other areas.

[mjazzka]

I am now a year in, what an experience so far. Here's an update

Text version:

-Made heat shields
-Started wiring
-Put engine and trans together and installed entire drivetrain
-Installed a driveshaft safety loop (if you want pictures I'll get some)
-Mounted P/S and A/C compressor, just need a belt now
-Radiator and condenser mounted, A/C lines measured, cut and crimped
-"trunk-trunk" fabricated with sheet and angle and installed, lined with dynamat. Put inertia cutoff switch inside
-Fabricated a battery box that will support the battery better than before and a clean looking cover for it
-Fabricated access ports for the taillights
-Fully installed rear hatch aluminum
-Put in tranny fluid & put on new FFR shifter
-Powdercoated a little bit more
-Moved Vapor canister to the battery box we fabbed, it's in a much better spot
-Cut out holes for 6x9 speakers that will be right behind our heads. It's gonna be kickin'
-Finished fuel lines to engine
-Mounted solenoid, coil, Barometric pressure sensor, various engine sensors
-Various other odds and ends that I can't think of at the moment

Made some heat shields out of some diamond plating that turned out pretty good, I still have one easy one to make for the front of the driver's footbox
20151201_222613 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Closeup of the inside passenger footbox heat shield
20151201_222623 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Engine and Transmission together for install
20151202_172810 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Installed! That was a good time HA.
20151210_222040 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

General overview
20151216_232703 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Using an EZ Wiring kit for my build, and Chuck Fields did my mustang harness dieting/cleaning. Great guy to work with
20151210_222153 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Another round of powdercoating... I ruined the HO plate after I coated it the first time, and it was fun cleaning it up again
20160123_124315 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

Working on the "trunk-trunk" that will go under the hatch floor and above the gas tank
20160127_163905 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Put on the upper intake, also note the compressor mounted in the bottom left. Bought an A/C delete to move P/S to the upper right and made a custom bracket to mount the North Race Cars compressor to the bottom left.
20160202_172550 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

A closer look at the compressor mount. There are two parts, one attached to the bottom of the big alternator bracket and one that goes to the timing cover bolt
20160203_180320 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Where the front is at right now
20160202_172556 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Where the rear is at right now. I've got the "trunk-trunk", a battery box right in front of that, as well as two access ports for the taillights that we made too. Lot of good work done by the whole family.
20160202_172607 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Got my O2 ports welded in. Not the best welding for a place that does exhaust, but it will work.
20160203_180300 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

[mjazzka]

Inside the cockpit
20160203_180343 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Closeup of one of the taillight access ports
20160203_180401 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Lined "trunk-trunk"
20160203_180412 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Not much clearance (less than .25"!), but it worked!
20160203_180431 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr

Inertia cutoff switch mounted at rear of "trunk-trunk"
20160203_180450 by Michael Jaska, on Flickr


Going forward is wiring and getting things ready for an engine start! Gotta work on my dash design and layout a lot, and figure out my circuits I'm going to need.

[John Dol]

Looking good Michael!

John

[wallace18]

Build is looking fantastic! Keep up the great work.

[Carlos C]

Michael:

I don't know if this has been addressed, but I have a concern from post #46. The photo which shows the frame notch for the exhaust, doesn't seem to be re-enforced. If it hasn't, this will become a weak point on the frame (worse yet if there are two of them on the same crossmember), which could lead to bending/twisting and possibly failing altogether.

My suggestion is to box it back up using the same thickness and quality of steel, contoured to keep the concave notch. For extra strength, you could also use some of that steel and weld it either inside the notch or right underneath it. If you do this, make sure that this rectangular piece is at least the same length of the notch. Keep up the good work.

Carlos

[mjazzka]

Thanks for the continued support guys, I really need to keep it more up to date for ya'll and stay active on here. The build is at a fun stage right now, with a lot of great things happening. We've even been talking about our next one, crazy enough...

[mjazzka]

Michael:

I don't know if this has been addressed, but I have a concern from post #46. The photo which shows the frame notch for the exhaust, doesn't seem to be re-enforced. If it hasn't, this will become a weak point on the frame (worse yet if there are two of them on the same crossmember), which could lead to bending/twisting and possibly failing altogether.

My suggestion is to box it back up using the same thickness and quality of steel, contoured to keep the concave notch. For extra strength, you could also use some of that steel and weld it either inside the notch or right underneath it. If you do this, make sure that this rectangular piece is at least the same length of the notch. Keep up the good work.

Carlos

Carlos, I see what you mean in post 46! That picture showed one of the two holes that I cut out in the 4" cross member, but I guess I never posted the picture of the finished mod lol. We put in the same type of steel 8 inch long 3.5"OD tubes with I think double wall thickness of the original and welded along the contour on both sides (so 4 welds total). The mod came out almost identically to my FEA model in an earlier post, so I think it will work out. I will post the finished product so you can look at it and let me know what you think

[mjazzka]

Found it pretty quick, here you are
2016-02-06_02-10-49.jpg

[Tom Mauldin]

Looking good! Keep it up.

[Carlos C]

Came out very nice, Michael. You should be good to go.

Carlos