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Thread: 289 Street dash

  1. #1
    Super Moderator oldguy668's Avatar
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    289 Street dash

    Because I'm doing a MK4 to FIA conversion, I have to make do with what I have available. Fir gauges, I have the Speedhut 2 1/16" and 4", which is a little different than the FFR-supplied 2 5/8" and 3 5/8" for the FIA kit. This is my best approximation of the dash layout used for the road-going version of the 289 (called the 289 Sport).

    Dash.JPG

    The switches will be laid out below the small gauges. Comments please.

    PS. I don't know why I can only post links to photos and not thumbnails. Must be me!
    "Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".

    Mark Twain

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Your gauges are close to the top of the dash. Will they clear the 3/4 tube on the back and the body lip on the front? Looks close to me. Especially the center ones.

    Can't help you with the picture thing posting as attachments. I used a picture hosting site (Photobucket) and just insert links in my posts. Easier to use IMO and the space available is much higher.
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  3. #3
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Watch the rollover/lip of the cowl Joe. This is a FFR precut dash which puts the gauge to the left of the wheel very close to it when using the FFR/Speedhut "Classic" set (4" and 2 1/16").



    The center of the gauge is 3" up from the bottom of the dash and 3 3/4" to the left of the steering shaft center. The upper row of your smaller gauges appears to be higher than where FFR locates them which has their center 6 1/2" up from the bottom of the dash. This leaves the O.D. of their bezel 3/4"-1? below the cowl lip.

    By the way, although I can't say that it might not be different for your 289/Mk4 hybrid but in the case of a Mk4 you do not apply bulbseal to the curved top section of the rear cockpit wall aluminum panel. If installed can prevent the body from dropping down all the way.

    Hope that helps,
    Jeff

  4. #4
    Super Moderator oldguy668's Avatar
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    I haven't located the gauges vertically yet. I figured I'd locate them with some verified dimensions (like yours) when I got ready to cut. I have a blank dash so I can move them down as much or more than you guys are recommending.

    I just stuck the bulb seal on to make sure I had a piece all cut and ready in the event I could use it there. The body is going on for a trial fit very soon.
    "Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".

    Mark Twain

  5. #5
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    The five gauges look too far left to me. The right side of the far right gauge should be under the center screw. Way high, as mentioned above.

    google "289 Cobra dash". There are some good pictures of originals.

    There is a template (no measurements) here: http://www.289register.com/

  6. #6
    Super Moderator oldguy668's Avatar
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    I made some adjustments based on what I saw when I googled "289 Cobra Dash". One of the big things I noticed was that the tach and speedo were on the same vertical plane, which put them both down behind the wheel. One photo shows them with the same wheel I have, with the horizontal spokes obscuring the view. The diagram shows tham on the same plane but with another wheel that has three spokes spaced at 120 degrees with one vertical. This makes the speedo and tach more visible, but I don't like the vertical spoke. I moved the 5 gauge cluster toward the center a bit more and moved everything down to clear the rolled edge. Comments please.


    These two show the switch layout as symmetrical to fill the space occupied by the 6th gauge. I like symmetry, it's an OCD.

    Dash-2.JPG
    Dash-3.JPG


    cobrepl1.jpg
    cobrepl16.gif
    "Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".

    Mark Twain

  7. #7
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    Here are a couple to start. PM me with your email address and I'll send you more. From SAAC 37, Watkins Glen











    George

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