Bleeding RamLift Pro System

[The Stig]

For those here who are using the RamLift Pro system on their GTM, do you have a bleed process that works best for you?

It "looks" like my lift rams were installed upside down. (Bleeders at the bottom). So it seems that if I try to bleed them, they would just drain everything out onto the floor (or catch pail). The air would stay above the bleeder.

So the shocks need to removed and inverted in order to bleed the rams. Bled. Turned back upright, Then reinstalled. (I think). Fortunately I was planning to remove them anyway when I switch out the upper control arms. So I'll do it all at the same time.

I've had a hell of a time trying get the reservoir to seal. I thought that I finally had it corrected, but I don't. So I'm going to replace the plastic Tilton reservoir with an aluminum BMW M3 aftermarket part that should correct that problem.

So my question to you guys is whether there are any gotcha's that I should be aware of when bleeding these, and setting them back up?

Thanks for your help.

Mike

[Erik W. Treves]

can you give me the part number for the system you bought and where you got it from ? thx!!

[The Stig]

can you give me the part number for the system you bought and where you got it from ? thx!!

The company is RamLift Pro.
The owner is Simon Hameka.
http://www.ramliftpro.com/
(281) 923-3470

Simon is very responsive to questions by phone and/or e-mail. Very good customer service, in my opinion.

The part number that I ordered was RLP40MM: (the lift kit for the front end).
(They didn't have the RLP2.5") Although there really isn't much difference in the two. I think there is probably 1/2" of lift difference between the two.

It raises the front of my car enough to get in and out of car haulers, and up my driveway. It clears by about an inch. If I didn't have this lift system, I would not be able to run the splitter, and I would still drag the last 2 inches of the driveway before the tire rolls off the end.

My driveway is a graduating 7, 15, 22, 30, 15, 0 degree slope. Bottom to top is about a 20 foot elevation.

So far, the Winter Olympics have not been held here yet...

Mike

[The Stig]

After going back to RamLift's website, and seeing pictures of the lift pucks installed, I apparently have them installed correctly. I didn't really question that until the thought of bleeding them came to mind. Not really sure how to go about bleeding these things, unless I take them off the shocks, and turn them over, break open the bleeder valve, and get the air out; one at a time. Seems like a LOT of effort.

I sent a note to Simon to ask his oppinion of the best way to do this. I'm sure I'll get a reply back before long, and I'll share the response for others who may be curious as well.

Mike

[crash]

A picture of your setup would be nice, but can't you just put them on the other end of the spring? Thereby the bleeder would be now facing up?

[The Stig]

A picture of your setup would be nice, but can't you just put them on the other end of the spring? Thereby the bleeder would be now facing up?

I'm not sure Mike. I think that there is a space issue at the top of the shock. That would be my preference as well. It seems like Jeff Collins said that they bumped the aluminum when installed at the top. But since the shocks have to come out anyway, it wouldn't hurt to give it a try.

I thought that there were more people using this lift system.

[The Stig]

[mikespms]

Hi Michael,
On a single line system like that and the type of cylinder that you are using,when the cylinder is fully collapse there is no room for air in the cylinder. All you need to do is to purge the air out of the line going to the cylinder at the cylinder end.

[The Stig]

Hi Michael,
On a single line system like that and the type of cylinder that you are using,when the cylinder is fully collapse there is no room for air in the cylinder. All you need to do is to purge the air out of the line going to the cylinder at the cylinder end.

Hi Michael! That makes sense. I'll open the connection and purge the air out. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Thanks Buddy.

Mike

[crash]

Have you verified with Ted, or whomever you got the shocks from, that you should be running them with the bodies down? Pretty sure this was the requirement with the stock Konis, but almost every other shock is designed to run with the body up as far as I know. Might want to check with the shock supplier/manufacturer about correct orientation.

[The Stig]

I can double check, but I'm pretty sure that he told me that they could go either way. It has been a while since I out them on. But you're right... It's probably a good idea to check.

[The Stig]

Have you verified with Ted, or whomever you got the shocks from, that you should be running them with the bodies down? Pretty sure this was the requirement with the stock Konis, but almost every other shock is designed to run with the body up as far as I know. Might want to check with the shock supplier/manufacturer about correct orientation.

Hi Mike,

I just got off the phone with Ted Harrison. He says that the Genesis shocks work fine installed with the shock body up or down. As a matter of fact they actually work better when they're inverted. So I'll stop stressing over that one now. I didn't really like the idea of taking all four corners apart to flip the shocks. I was also concerned with how I was going to make that ram fit inside the sway bar blades.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

Mike

[crash]

Sorry for the stress, just thought it would be good to make sure before buttoning things up.

[The Stig]

Sorry for the stress, just thought it would be good to make sure before buttoning things up.

LOL...! No worries Mike. It made sense to me. It was a good idea to double check it. That's one if thise thing that could easily go either way. I appreciated the heads up.

Mike