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Thread: Bob_n_Cincy Head Light install procedure

  1. #1
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Bob_n_Cincy Head Light install procedure

    To all my 818 friends.
    As Promised, below is a video of how I installed my headlights.
    Disclaimers:
    It worked for me. May not work for everyone. YMMV
    My body is a 2013 version, may not match what you have.
    I made the video a 3AM by myself.

    It's about a half hour, sorry for the length, I should have edited it and taken out about 10 minutes.

    Let me know your thoughts.
    Bob


    [xxxxx=youtube;QlPaGiM453c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlPaGiM453c&feature=youtu.be[/video]
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 07-16-2018 at 05:04 PM.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Nicely done, Bob. I'm sure this video will help some guys. I wish I had seen this before I struggled to mount my headlights.
    To do this properly it's necessary to wear a Zero db shirt, right?
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  3. #3
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Great video Bob, nicely done

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    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    To do this properly it's necessary to wear a Zero db shirt, right?
    I'll be honest, I wasn't going to watch the video at work but I clicked it just to see the shirt.



    I'll have to watch the rest at home (even though the office appears 1/2 empty).
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    Just watched the whole thing. I like the rubber gasket idea. I was thinking last night it needed something. I hadn't thought to use extra wide material to adjust for the variance in the gaps.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Nicely done, Bob. I'm sure this video will help some guys. I wish I had seen this before I struggled to mount my headlights.
    To do this properly it's necessary to wear a Zero db shirt, right?
    Thanks Pete, Yes 3x Zero db Shirt required.

    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Great video Bob, nicely done
    Thanks Stipwrd, In school I was very shy and hated to get up in front of a class.
    That has gone away as I've grown older.

    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  7. #7
    Senior Member gwarden's Avatar
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    Thanks Bob this gives me hope that I might get past this task

  8. #8
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Nice job Bob!

    Larry

  9. #9
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    Great video. Thanks for posting!

    Is this roughly equivalent to what you got for the rubber edging?

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#8507k83/=wdlb3b

  10. #10

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    i used these white door trim due to having air voids between gel coat and fiberglass. The match up is pretty darn close.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


  11. #11
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billjr212 View Post
    Great video. Thanks for posting!

    Is this roughly equivalent to what you got for the rubber edging?

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#8507k83/=wdlb3b
    That is very close to what I used on the bottom. What I used looks more like style #3 on the MMC page. No clue where I got it. I used it to prevent wire chaffing in electrical panels 5+ ears ago.

    on the top I used:
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#8507k43/=wdlrm5

    Kurk, Send a better picture of your side scoop.
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-19-2015 at 04:24 PM.
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  12. #12

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    The scoop is just poster board. I want to get a rough idea of what itd look like. Heres a better pic of my headlight tho.



  13. #13
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    Bob,

    Thanks alot for the great video here. I wish there were more like this one to help everyone tackle the body that is a shortcoming in the manual.

    kerry in indiana

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    Thanks for the video, I found it just in time, I'm going to start my headlight install tomorrow!!
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  15. #15
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    i used these white door trim due to having air voids between gel coat and fiberglass. The match up is pretty darn close.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    You can get a longer length here if needed http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...8.oap?pt=N0546
    Tony Nadalin
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  16. #16
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Bob, how timely as I was just doing my rough fit this past weekend and now ready for final fit ...

    So question, the fender meets the font bumper/headlight assemble, the fender has a ridge that extends beyond the end of the fender, does that get cut off or does that get tucked under the front fender/ light assemble ? I have it tucked under right now but that does not seem right

    WP_20150518_07_22_50_Pro.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
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  17. #17
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Bob, how timely as I was just doing my rough fit this past weekend and now ready for final fit ...

    So question, the fender meets the font bumper/headlight assemble, the fender has a ridge that extends beyond the end of the fender, does that get cut off or does that get tucked under the front fender/ light assemble ? I have it tucked under right now but that does not seem right

    WP_20150518_07_22_50_Pro.jpg
    Hi Tony,
    I left the tab on the nose of the fender.
    I thought it helped with the alignment there.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 05-20-2015 at 03:07 PM.
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  18. #18
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Hi Tony,
    I left the tab on the nose of the fender.
    I thought it helped with the alignment there.
    Bob
    So does the light sit under the tab or did you have to shift the light over to accommodate the tab? In my picture I shifted the light over but I'm not sure that is correct.
    Tony Nadalin
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  19. #19
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    So does the light sit under the tab or did you have to shift the light over to accommodate the tab? In my picture I shifted the light over but I'm not sure that is correct.
    Hi Tony,
    Here is a picture of my head lights from the bottom side without the buckets installed.
    II circled the tab.
    Bob

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    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  20. #20
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    wow, it would be great if all the tricky installation items had a video like this one. thank you Bob!

    I have my panels fitted (clamped in place) about ready to put my buckets in and i am thinking my front bumper still needs to go down some. currently it is below my tube frame in front about 1/2". my pads in the area of the picture below are floating above the steel plates that they attach to about 3/4". do people add spacers there or did they end up setting directly on the steel pads? these are the pads that the outsides and corners needed trimmed down to allow the front end to move side to side.

    Thanks
    Doug
    image.jpg

  21. #21
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougkirkbride View Post
    wow, it would be great if all the tricky installation items had a video like this one. thank you Bob!

    I have my panels fitted (clamped in place) about ready to put my buckets in and i am thinking my front bumper still needs to go down some. currently it is below my tube frame in front about 1/2". my pads in the area of the picture below are floating above the steel plates that they attach to about 3/4". do people add spacers there or did they end up setting directly on the steel pads? these are the pads that the outsides and corners needed trimmed down to allow the front end to move side to side.

    Thanks
    Doug
    Hi Doug
    on most cars I've seen, the bumper site on the steel pads.
    A lot of us used a piece of aluminum angle to attaché the bottom of the bumper to the 1x1 steel tube.
    There is a 1/2 to 3/4 gap between the bumper and the steel.
    angle.jpg
    bob
    PS: stop by as you travel south for vacation.
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    Thanks Bob, I will move it flush and put the buckets in.
    Next time I am traveling thru cinci I will look you up, would love to see your cars.

    Doug

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    Quote Originally Posted by dougkirkbride View Post
    Thanks Bob, I will move it flush and put the buckets in.
    Next time I am traveling thru cinci I will look you up, would love to see your cars.
    Well, moved this connection flush
    image.jpg
    and ran into a problem with the hood hitting my radiator cap....stuck a spacer in that to get the outlet away from the steering rack about 9 mos ago. bummer. i am finding this car has alot of the same issues the custom machines we build and install at work have. everything is designed with cad and 1/16" clearance on the monitor looks great when your zoomed into it

    guess I will try it with spacers, about 1/4 to 3/8" spacers there, this throws my points on fenders and hood up tight with the windshield, ughhh, more clearances somewhere would have been nice. time to trim some more...
    buckets arent in yet.

  24. #24
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Hi Doug
    on most cars I've seen, the bumper site on the steel pads.
    A lot of us used a piece of aluminum angle to attaché the bottom of the bumper to the 1x1 steel tube.
    There is a 1/2 to 3/4 gap between the bumper and the steel.
    angle.jpg
    Great idea, I picked up a piece of aluminum angle for this purpose today.
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    Bob. What is the name of the bolt that you glued to the inside of the bumper to hold the Z bracket that holds the headlight bucket? I see MMC has elevator bolts but the head is just a disk with a square section just under the head. Yours had holes in the disk.
    Thanks for the video.
    Davis

  26. #26
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CU9DZ View Post
    Bob. What is the name of the bolt that you glued to the inside of the bumper to hold the Z bracket that holds the headlight bucket? I see MMC has elevator bolts but the head is just a disk with a square section just under the head. Yours had holes in the disk.
    Thanks for the video.
    Davis
    Bottom of this page http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3177/=ye9hwp
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    Great Thanks. I followed your video and understand why you have to adjust the headlight up or down to get the best fit or for headlight beam alignment.
    Davis

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Hi Doug
    on most cars I've seen, the bumper site on the steel pads.
    A lot of us used a piece of aluminum angle to attaché the bottom of the bumper to the 1x1 steel tube.
    There is a 1/2 to 3/4 gap between the bumper and the steel.
    angle.jpg
    bob
    PS: stop by as you travel south for vacation.

    Bob, Sorry to revive such an old post, but I was mounting my bumper this week and my bumper is sitting on the pads (up top), but the lower front part of the bumper is about an inch or so forward and 1/2 - 3/4" below the 1x1 tube.

    Is that what you used the aluminum angle for?

    The manual made it seem like the bumper and tube would be off by height, but not off by how far forward it is. I have the fenders clamped on the side sills and the front bumper, so I think my bumper placement is correct, but would rather cut once.

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