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Thread: Challenge Transmission Removal

  1. #1
    Member StromSpeed's Avatar
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    Jan 2012
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    Challenge Transmission Removal

    I have a challenge car and need to get my TKO600 trans out for repair: is there an easy way to remove the transmission from the top side (given we have no tunnel obstructions) WITHOUT removing the engine? I got some feedback on removing the bell housing with the trans. but wondered if the Challenge series guys have any tricks for just removing the trans?
    I have not removed the trans since I installed and I did that as complete engine/tran piece.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    On the ones I (we) have removed, it was from the top. My car is a MKIII and no cross bar. We do it with out removing the engine or the bellhousing. We were able to do most of them in about an hour and once we (me) discharged a halon bottle.

    Here's my recipe for success:
    1. Put the car in the air on 4 jack stands
    2. Put trans in gear, if possible, and break the driveshaft bolts and remove drive shaft. (expect some fluid)
    3. Remove trans tunnel cover
    4. Remove shifter.
    5. Remove wiring, speedo, etc if applicable.
    6. Remove Trans mount bolts.
    *** NOTE: From here on out DO NOT TOUCH THE CLUTCH PEDAL until you have the trans in place! ***
    7. Remove bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing.
    8. Slide the trans straight back until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
    9. Lift trans out through the top of the trans tunnel. You may need to tip it up which will cause trans fluid to run out the tail housing.
    10. Lower new trans into position.
    11. Gently slide the new trans towards the engine. If you haven't bumped the clutch pedal, the clutch disc should be lined up and no need for the alignment tool. With the new trans in gear you may need to rotate the output shaft to help line up the splines in the clutch disc.
    12. Do steps 1- 6 in reverse order. Don't forget to top off/fill the fluid before you put the shifter back on. I fill through the shifter until it runs out the hole as prescribed in the manual.

    There are times when at step 11 it seems like it won't go in that last 1/2" and it seems like using the bell housing bolts would be a good idea to snug it up. Nope. Just wiggle it some more and rotate the output shaft back and forth. If those things don't work then as one person tries to slide the trans into place the second person should gently ease in the clutch. Watch your fingers.

    I may have missed a few things but this should be the biggies.

    Hope all goes well.
    FFR Spec Racer

  3. #3
    Member StromSpeed's Avatar
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    AVGJOE: Thanks for the detailed steps! Funny, that now that I logged in and just saw you reply I basically figured out all the steps 9! Your other steps will come in very handy as well too so thanks for writing all this.
    The only difference I made was to jack up the engine about an 1" at the bell to give me a little more wiggle room and clearance to pull back and out from the top, but it came right out on the first pull! Gotta love this open tunnel!
    Because I tilted the engine, I took off my side pipes and disconnected a few engine components to ensure nothing stretched to cause more problems. I also had disconnected the clutch cable prior to pulling the engine (not the pedal) so I hope all goes well on the re-install.

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