The build is picking up some speed

[crash]

Pardon me Mr. Crash... I would have more respect for your reply if it wasn't coming from a person who managed to crash a $100k supercar into a fire hydrant.

LOL

Sorry if it was a legitiment post. You just sounded/looked too much like a spammer, so I thought I would probe a little.

The idler pulley issues are widely known and a number of "fixes" have been discussed, mostly on the "other" forum.

Welcome to the board...that's what I meant to say...really!




PS- As of this date I have never crashed a GTM, although I will say this with a grain of salt over the shoulder as I routinely go 130+ MPH in someone elses GTM!

[VD2021]

Julian,

I have a cousin that uses the Katech tensioner in his Camaro. It solved his belt problems as you described. He told me it was a must for my GTM. I'm considering it at the moment but I will wait til the car is a t gokart stage to test how the stock one works. Thanks for the heads up.

Its also in a location where its not hard to get to if you wanted to address it later.

[Kempo]

Installed the gas pedal today. As a heads up for those using the newer pedal, I had to drill a new hole on the template for the pedal. Not sure if it is because it is the newer LS3/LS7 pedal that has the straight connector instead of the older one that has two rows of pins on it. If I had used the holes on the template the pedal would had not fitted in there. Maybe FFR should add this hole to the template for the newer pedals. I also had to cut part of the bracket on the pedal where the holes for the bolts are in order to clear the pedal box. In the end it is a perfect fit. I tried to install it as close as possible to the brake pedal to aid on the heel and toe on track days.










After the install of the pedal I continued working on the electrical stuff. With the help of the pin out posted by Spytech (thanks again BTW) I identified the wires that I will need for the inputs and grounding on the ISIS mastercell. I separated from the 23 pin connector the wires that will be used and now will get a connector for the amount of wires need in order to reduce the size of that huge 23 pin connector. Also installed Shane's mastercell mount for the mastercell on the drivers side and installed another mastercell mount on the passenger side but bent on the other direction so that it would fit the other side for the Inmotion cell that will control the side windows.

[ArtGirl]

Having received the update on the Mendeola transaxle and clarification on what clutch can be used I ordered an LS7 clutch kit.

Is there any difference between the LS7 and LS3 clutch?

[Kempo]

Is there any difference between the LS7 and LS3 clutch?

The torque rating may be different I'm not sure. Physically they are the same. I was now told by Ian a few weeks back it won't fit the Mendeola on the GTM. It has to be the LS1 flat flywheel one. That now leaves me with a LS7/LS3 clutch and flywheel for sale if any of you corvettes owner out there need one.

[ArtGirl]

The torque rating may be different I'm not sure. Physically they are the same. I was now told by Ian a few weeks back it won't fit the Mendeola on the GTM. It has to be the LS1 flat flywheel one. That now leaves me with a LS7/LS3 clutch and flywheel for sale if any of you corvettes owner out there need one.

Watching with interest, as I'm sorting this out too. Not sure why the flywheel needs to be the flat one. I thought the type of clutch determined that, not the transmission. I'm missing a piece to this puzzle somewhere.

[Kempo]

Watching with interest, as I'm sorting this out too. Not sure why the flywheel needs to be the flat one. I thought the type of clutch determined that, not the transmission. I'm missing a piece to this puzzle somewhere.

It seems like the bell housing on the Mendeola has a very limited space. This limited space is why the flat flywheel is required or the clutch cover would hit the bell housing. The same thing happens with the starter. The stock GM starter has a snout that covers the gear that cover won't clear the bell housing. This is why we need the IMI-140. At least this is what I understood from Ian's explanation.

[LCD Gauges]

The LS series engines are all known to throw belts at the tensioner pulley. Any old guy that goes to the track with his stock Camaro on Sundays can tell you that... you guys are building a supercar and not addressing a very basic known issue. The tensioner is made of plastic!

And what about aftermarket intakes and fuel rails? The GM intake is plastic too! Very weak.

That's a new one for me. I belong to an F-body club and have two friends with 99/02 WS-6. We've all gone racing several times and no report of a belt
falling off. I'm not saying it's a false claim, but nobody in the group has mentioned this issue. Even my SS being stock at one point and then modified
never tossed a belt up to 6500 RPM shifts.

The composite intakes (although small volume for most applications) is a "dry" intake and also handles heat quite well. Aside from being weaker than aluminum
and possibly allowing the block to flex more on the top end, it's good for 500+ HP naturally aspirated (LS6 intake).

Maybe the car club and my buddies had the LS motors built from Tuesday to Thursday?

[Kempo]

Work on the electrical side has been slow since I was waiting for some connectors,loom etc. But the reason I'm posting right now is to let you guys know how pleased I am with the customer support at ISIS. I have called twice with some questions and talked to Mike. He was on the phone with me for some time and cleared up all my questions without any rush to hang up and move to the other stuff he might have had to do. Big thumbs up for Mike. Just Five minutes ago I got a call from Dan Martinez from ISIS. He was just calling to check up how it was all going and if I had any questions on the install. Talk about customer support. If anyone is having doubts about using the ISIS or not because you are worried about customer/technical support after the sale my advice based on my experience is pull the trigger they are A+++++++++++

[The Stig]

I think we need more updates and pictures or we're in danger of going into GTM info withdrawal!

[VD2021]

I think we need more updates and pictures or we're in danger of going into GTM info withdrawal!

I second that.

[Kempo]

I'm sorry to say there aren't many updates. Haven't had a lot of time to work on the GTM lately and the little stuff I have done is hardly noticeable. This wiring part look isn't as gratifying in viewable results as the previous stages. Here are a few pictures

I decided to add some loom and tee to the injectors and coils wiring in the engine harness since I don't like the uncovered wires looked.

Before:




After:













I also finished the wiring for the fuel pump and hanged the fuel pump relay at the rear hatch hinge mount.

[Kempo]

Used a flat bar to make a 45 degree part to connect the B+ cable to the starter and keep the B+ as far away as possible from the headers. (Still needs a connector and insulation) From there the cable will continues to a power distributor I installed to feed the ECU and the ISIS rear cell and any other stuff I might install that will need B+ power. I also need to make a small dent on the header to give more clearance to the starter B+ stud.

[Kempo]

This past Saturday Steve Kan from Lewisville,Texas came to PR to tune a few RX7's. This guy Is an amazing tuner and a great guy to deal with. My RX7 is a totally different beast now. It has a ton more HP and driveability is just perfect. You guys might be wondering "what does this has to do with the GTM?" Well while talking to him it turns out that he also tunes using HP tuners which is useful to us GTM owners. He has even tuned one GTM already a twin turbo GTM. I don't recall if it is from Texas or somewhere else. He showed me a few pictures of it and it's engine looks awesome. Here is a video of him finishing up the tune on my 7.




If anyone needs a tuner that knows what is doing you can find him on facebook under kantuning.com and on his site www.kantuning.com

[mmaragos]

Seems like such a small world at times. It has been a while, but I had a modified FD too. I miss that car. Without a doubt, Steve Kan is an awesome tuner, that's great that you got him to tune your car.

[Kempo]

The wiring "fun" continues. The ISIS is almost finished. I also installed a battery disconnect switch to keep the battery from being drained when the car is not used for a long time. Another reason for the switch is to have a quick way to disconnect my battery in case of an emergency. I also installed some mesh covers on the 1/0 battery cables and other cables to help them blend better with the rest of the car.

[Kempo]

I pressure tested and installed most of my fuel and oil cooler hoses yesterday.





My twin disc ACT LS1 clutch arrived last week only need the mendeola now to complete the drivetrain department.

[Kempo]

On the paint side the hood got it's primer today. The doors got the final prep to be primed next week and Shanes louvers are back from sand blasting and ready for paint.

[LCD Gauges]

Beautiful work; I love the choice of accessories and the clean install.

I'm curious to see how the starter B+ post clearance will turn out. It's a shame you'll end up denting the header tube.

Any chance that you can weld that bracket onto the starter post instead?

[Kempo]

Beautiful work; I love the choice of accessories and the clean install.

I'm curious to see how the starter B+ post clearance will turn out. It's a shame you'll end up denting the header tube.

Any chance that you can weld that bracket onto the starter post instead?

Thanks for the compliment and thanks for the welding the bracket idea. I will check with a welder friend of mine to see if it can be done. The stud on the starter is made out of what appears to be cooper and the bracket is made out of a galvanized flat bar. Not sure if those will weld together. There is also some plastic parts around that stud that might melt but I will not rule out that option.

[VD2021]

K,
Wow! You're close to a base coat. Have you come to a final decision on your paint scheme?

That looks smooth. Did you use polyester based primer?

You've made great progress. Once you transaxle arrives you'll be on the home stretch. Keep the pictures coming.

[Kempo]

K,
Wow! You're close to a base coat. Have you come to a final decision on your paint scheme?

That looks smooth. Did you use polyester based primer?

You've made great progress. Once you transaxle arrives you'll be on the home stretch. Keep the pictures coming.

Vidal,

I'm going with white paint and black accents, like the headlight buckets and all of Shane's louvers. The black I will be using for those is the same as in the wheels. I still haven't decided on the roof. Not sure if I will leave it white or paint it black. I'm leaning towards the black roof at the moment. The primer that is being used is made by BASF from their R-M line it's the Power Fill 2K. Don't know if it is polyester based or not. I honestly have no clue on paint and finishing stuff.

I'm really exited that I might be able to start the engine soon after Mendeola delivers the transaxle. I really want to hear that thing roar.

[kabacj]

Hey Kempo looking really good. Just thinking about that post on the starter. I would be a little leery about welding that post because it might damage the starter. What about using a jam nut. They are half as thick as the nut you have on there. Or better yet thread the bar and screw it on. Then trim the stud down till it clears.

I hate denting headers.

John

[LCD Gauges]

A couple tack welds are harmless, but I like your idea of using the jam nut as an alternative.

[kabacj]

A couple tack welds are harmless, but I like your idea of using the jam nut as an alternative.

I agree a couple of tacks could be fine.. I would just hate to ruin a starter. Unless it was mine to ruin I'm not going to be the one to try. Instead of using galvanized steel for the bar you could also make the bar out of 3/8 or 1/4 inch aluminum bar stock and cut threads into that with no problem. The aluminum will be a great conductor of electricity and even might help wick away heat from the starter. I know that's a stretch but it will conduct heat.

John

[Kempo]

I agree a couple of tacks could be fine.. I would just hate to ruin a starter. Unless it was mine to ruin I'm not going to be the one to try. Instead of using galvanized steel for the bar you could also make the bar out of 3/8 or 1/4 inch aluminum bar stock and cut threads into that with no problem. The aluminum will be a great conductor of electricity and even might help wick away heat from the starter. I know that's a stretch but it will conduct heat.

John

John,

I think that the jam nut will fit the bill. I will try that before bending the header or tack welding it. If I can get an extra 2MM of gap it will have enough clearance and I can also fit a starter heat shield wrap. Threading the bar and screwing it up is not possible. The connector for the starter signal is under that stud and will not allow for the bar to be screwed on.

Thanks guys for the advise on solving this clearance issue.

[Kempo]

I powered the ISIS system this morning. I still need to connect the all the outputs to their respective locations but I tested all of them and they are working the way they should. I also tested the touch screen. on this video you can hear how the stater solenoid is activated when the engine start button is pressed. Here is also a picture of a powered Powercell.

The Powercell


The screen




The system in action

[LCD Gauges]

That is flat out too cool! What is a system like that worth?

[VD2021]

That is flat out too cool! What is a system like that worth?

Tino,
The in touch max touch screen alone is $929. I'd term it as "high speed, low drag" and very cool.

[VD2021]

H,
Very nice. You're like the neighbor hood kid that has all of the latest video games and toys. I can't wait to see it full up.

[Kempo]

That is flat out too cool! What is a system like that worth?

Tino,

The price on the touch screen is what Vidal said. Plus the basic 3 cell kit is about $1000 they also have a few more options that can increase your final price. Pricey? Yes....But, to me this is as cool as it gets on electrical systems. IMHO it adds to the awe factor of the GTM.

[The Stig]

Really Cool stuff Hugo! I think the ISIS system is definitely something that more people here are interested in knowing more about, in order to get past the uncertainty of installation. It's definitely cool. But it's also sort of "Black-Box-ish"...

I started to put it into my GTM, but decided against it at the last minute. But I think when I build the Mk-4, I will definitely use it.

Are their things that people need to know ahead of time, in terms of build plan (sequence) when incorporating the ISIS system? Or do you plan it the same as you would any other wiring "kit"? I know that you sort of need to plan where you place the cells, and how you'll route the wires from the different points, but other than that, are there any hurdles that you hadn't planned on?

Thanks for posting this piece!

Mike

[flotowngtm]

Great video I think thats the first one I have seen of the screen up close in action. Nice install!!!
And I would also paint the roof black.

[LCD Gauges]

That sure does set your car apart from the rest of the pack. It's a little out of my budget right now as I'd rather put the funds toward rims, a rear wing, and some other body accents. I guess that's something you want to buy up front and install before the interior is buttoned up!

Maybe for the next GTM...

[spytech]

Very cool. I emailed ISIS multiple times inquiring about that touchscreen system back when I was doing my wiring and never received any responses. Would have been a cool toy to have.

[Kempo]

Are their things that people need to know ahead of time, in terms of build plan (sequence) when incorporating the ISIS system? Or do you plan it the same as you would any other wiring "kit"? I know that you sort of need to plan where you place the cells, and how you'll route the wires from the different points, but other than that, are there any hurdles that you hadn't planned on?

Thanks for posting this piece!

Mike

Stig,

Other than planning where to install the cells the rest is about the same as installing any other wiring system. Shane's cell mounts help a lot on the install of the cells. Not having to route and hide the bulk of cables coming out of a traditional fuse box type system really cuts on installation time. so far I haven't run into any unforeseen hurdles.

[Kempo]

I installed my clutch and flywheel this Sunday.











The twin discs aligned





My coolant header tank also came back from anodizing.

[Kempo]

As kabacj suggested I used a jam nut on the starter and it allowed for an extra 2MM of clearance. Thanks kabacj. I now have enough clearance there. Just need to add the starter heat shielding blanket.






I also worked last night a bit more on the electrical system. This time I started working on the gauges. This new Gen II gauges are not just way nicer than the auto meeter used before they are also way easier to install. They come with connectors and harnesses for signal,power and lighting. IMO there are 3 things that can be improved on them. The first one is that a metric adaptor should be included with the gauges since it is destined to be used in the LS engine. The adaptor for the water temp sensor doesn't have the metric M16x1.50 required to install the sensor where FFR recommends in the manual. I had to get the metric adaptor. Since I was getting the adaptor I got one that is M12x1.25 and used the hole on the passenger side cylinder head in order to route the cable over the engine instead of behind the headers where it would be subjected to more heat during use. The second one is and don't know if this is because if the way I routed my wires but the harness for the water temp and the oil pressure gauges need a bit more length on them. They seem to be made for cars with the engine at the front. They just barely reach the location behind the instrument panel. Maybe 6 to 12 more inches of cable would help. The wires are very thin and just a bit of pull left on them might turn into trouble down the road. On the other hand the fuel level gauge harness has like 24" of extra cable on its harness. The third thing I would have liked to see on the gauges would have been the integrated signal and high beam indicator lights in the face of the tachometer. The guys that make the gauges offer this option. I'm aware that FFR has to cut back on some options to be able to offer the GTM kit at $19K but maybe Dave can work something out with the manufacturer to have them include that option. Don't know maybe a volume order for indicators deal or something like ad space on this site. I will be sending them my tach today and they will retrofit those indicators in there, for a charge of course.





More to come tonight or tomorrow. I'm hoping to fire the engine some time this weekend.

[RumRunner]

Hugo,

Can I ask how much they charge to retro-fit the indicators? I also would like to do it.
In fact, I'm thinking about using their 4-in-1 4" gauge to display engine temp, oil pressure, gas level, and alternator voltage, rather than use the three smaller gauges FFR provides. The three 4" gauges sit in a nice arc on the dash face.

Also, I'm going to be in PR week of Thanksgiving. Probably a long drive, but I'd love to see your build!

-Michael

[LS MAN]

Hey Kempo, great build - coming along awesome.
You might want to put some kind of covering over that cable extension bar from the starter, as it has a lot of exposed area - could drop a wrench or something down there & it would make a mess, maybe even burn a hole in the header.
A lot of heat there so something high temp.

Keep up the good work.

Another option would be to install a remote starter solenoid, (old Ford type system) Actually you could put it where your rear cable junction is.
The idea behind it is you run the positive cable to the remote solenoid, & the output cable goes to the starter. The benefit of this is the main cable to the starter is only powered when starting, other times it is dead, no chance of shorting out.
You would need to run the solenoid engagement wire from the ISIS to the remote solenoid, and also make a small jumper from the main cable post on the starter to the solenoid on the starter. When the remote solenoid is energized it would feed power to the starter cable post & solenoid together.
Ford made a flat style solenoid that would work great.



NAPA Part # MPE ST404SB