The build is picking up some speed

[Kempo]

I got my kit on Feb 9. Things got kind of slow while the used suspension went of to be sandblasted and painted along with the panels. It was all finished yesterday so the work resumed this morning before leaving for work. Hopefully tomorrow will see a lot of progress.

[Kempo]

[Kempo]

[whosnext]

i like all black

[RF RIDER]

What kind of coating do you have on the panels? Looks really good with the textured look. Looking forward to progress pics.

[Kempo]

I'm using a tintable truck bed liner. It can be tinted to any color. The main reason I choose it over paint is that it is also a sound dampening material. It takes away most of the metallic sound of the panels. I plan on using it on all the aluminum panels and under parts of the body that can be seen like under the front hood. Tinted in the same color of the body it should give a very nice finish to this fiber glass surfaces. Here is the technical data sheet http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/PT%20TDS.pdf and the web site info http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=155

[RF RIDER]

That should definitly hold up nice against any possible rock chipping etc. Thanks for the info. Did you apply it yourself or have a paint shop do it for you?

[Kempo]

It was done by a body shop along with the used suspension components.

[Kalstar]

Looks great! Much, much better. I too really like the black.

[Kempo]

Some more progress from tonight. The wheels arrived today. My first choice on color for the wheels was black, that was changed for anthracite later. At some point someone never got the color change and I ended up getting the black ones. After opening one and taking a look at them I decided not to return them and keep them. They look awesome IMHO. The steering rack also arrived on a package of back orders from FFR. I also installed part of the brakes tonight.







The rear

[Kempo]

The rack and column

[mmaragos]

Looking great! I definitely like your rims, they will look awesome with so many different body colors.

[Kempo]

Thanks mmaragos!!! So far the plan is to paint the body white.

[GTM1]

Was there any issue with temperature for powder coating and the ball joints/rubbers?
Thought of doing this but was told high heat would make problems.
Yours looks great though!

[Kempo]

I didn't have them powder coated for that same reason. Didn't wanted to risk damaging all the bushings with the heat. The suspension parts were painted by a local body shop. It's not as strong as the powder coating but still beats the looks of how my used parts looked. Thanks for compliment.

[Kempo]

The LS 376 engine went in this weekend.

[LS MAN]

Great lookin build Kempo, is that a 376/480 crate motor?

[Kempo]

Thanks LS MAN. Yes it is a LS376/480.

[LS MAN]

Hey Kempo, are you using the crate motor harness kit & computer also?

[Kempo]

LS, I was planning on using it but I cancelled it. I saw an ad on eBay from these guys sspwiring.com They had an ad for the engine harness for the GTM. They will custom build it for any LS engine. He is also making a chassis harness for the GTM. They have or at least had a GTM in his shop he was wiring at the time of my order. They were using it to make the harness. The engine harness should be here on Saturday according to them. He is also going to be sending me a donor ECU with the LS376 reflash on it. I will post pictures of it when they arrive. The chassis harness should arrive a few weeks later.

BTW I was talking to Ron last night and he told me about the new site you have there on your signature. I really liked a few things you have there like the roll bar cover for example. Great Job.

[RF RIDER]

Kempo, build it looking great. I am interested in the custom wiring harness as well, I have pretty much the same engine. I like the temp brackets to hold up the engine, are they mounted to the control arm bracket? Can you update as to how the wiring harness works out for you and also if you don't mind could you PM me on the price for the harness. What are the brand of rotors you are using? I'm asking a lot of question, just anxious to get started myself.

[Kempo]

Thanks RF RIDER. The wiring has not been delivered yet. SSP WIRING pushed back the delivery date because the have some connectors on back order. As soon as it arrives I will post some updates and some pictures. Yes, the temporary brackets on the engine are attached to the lower cam bolts. The cam bolts are strong enough to handle the weight of the engine. Using this method I don't have the 2x4 piece of wood suggested in the manual to hold the engine til the the tranny arrives and I can keep on working around it. The rotors I'm using are DBA the model is 4000. They also have a model 5000 which is basically the same but with aluminum hats. I opted for the 4000 for two reasons 1. Price and 2. the ones with the aluminum hats don't have the brake drum built in the rears for the parking brake which is required for me to be able to register the car. The guy that sold me the braking system has a LOT of knowledge in braking systems and hat everything in stock. He even had these calipers without the Corvette logos on them. Got all the calipers, rotors, hawk pads, parking brake shoe housings and shoes, SS braided brake lines and all hardware for $2500. I can also PM his info if you want it or to anyone else that may need it. I will PM you the wiring info in a few minutes and post some more pictures.

When are you getting your kit? So far this has been lots of fun and not as difficult as I had imagined.

[Kempo]

The pedal box, master cylinders and lines are done.


The fans an radiator and A/C condenser are installed. Just need to change the bolts holding it on the upper part for some shorter ones.









The rivets were also painted so that they will be less noticeable.

[Kempo]

More parts arrived today. The Kook's exhaust is here. Thanks Shane for a great looking exhaust system. The ceramic coating makes it look very nice.







I did a test fit on the passenger side to see if it fits with the A/C compressor and it looks like it's all good. The lines are not yet fitted to the compressor but it seems like there is plenty of space. this was the best picture I could take.

[Kempo]

Having received the update on the Mendeola transaxle and clarification on what clutch can be used I ordered an LS7 clutch kit. Still need to order the flywheel. Not sure which direction to take on that. Aluminum, lightweight steel or stock. I want the car to be as fast as possible on track days without sacrificing a lot of street driveability.

[crash]

IMHO, the stock one is just fine. If you go with an aluminum, make sure it has a bolted on steel ring gear. I have used some with aluminum ring gears and they don't last long.

I haven't used an aluminum though, in mnay many years now. The steel ones are plenty light and much stronger.

[Muadi]

Kempo, the build is looking realy nice... good job.

I was curious about the coating your using. Are you pre-drilling the rivet holes prior to coating? If so, easy to clean up for rivets? If your not, are you finding it OK to drill through the coating? Are you only coating one side? Just wondering...

[Kempo]

Thanks for the advise on the flywheel Crash. I have to give you a call for some parts I need later this week.

Muadi, thanks for the compliment on the build. I'm drilling before I send them out for paint. After they are returned from paint I just go over each hole with the drill to make it easier to insert the rivet. Cleans up the hole real fast with the drill. I have also drilled quite a few new holes after painted and it has not done any damage to the coating. I'm coating both sides on all panels since I choose this coat for it's looks and also for it's sound dampening characteristics. Want the car sound as solid as possible.

[Waiting4Kids2Bgone]

Just saw this thru a link on the main page. I am interested in doing the same on a Roadster, but was planning on avoiding the places that the aluminum meet the frame for a more solid connection. With all that texture, did you have any issues riveting the panels or getting it to sit flat on the frame?

Thanks,
Tommy

I'm using a tintable truck bed liner. It can be tinted to any color. The main reason I choose it over paint is that it is also a sound dampening material. It takes away most of the metallic sound of the panels. I plan on using it on all the aluminum panels and under parts of the body that can be seen like under the front hood. Tinted in the same color of the body it should give a very nice finish to this fiber glass surfaces. Here is the technical data sheet http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/PT%20TDS.pdf and the web site info http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=155

[Kempo]

It is textured and a bit thicker than any paint but, not so much as to cause any problems. I drilled most of the holes on the bare panels and after they were painted every single hole had a perfect alignment with the corresponding hole on the frame/panel they fit to. HTH

Just saw this thru a link on the main page. I am interested in doing the same on a Roadster, but was planning on avoiding the places that the aluminum meet the frame for a more solid connection. With all that texture, did you have any issues riveting the panels or getting it to sit flat on the frame?

Thanks,
Tommy

[Kempo]

The engine harness was delivered today. The build quality is excellent and it fits perfect. I did a quick mock up to make sure everything is where it should and it is. This guys tool a long time to deliver but the quality is second to none. I'm still waiting for the chassis harness to arrive. The fuel system is almost ready as well. Still waiting for the filter bracket. I need to fabricate some heat shielding for the filter and the pump. I have also installed a check valve on the fuel supply line to make sure the pump will always have fuel in it on start ups. Here are a few pictures.

Fuel system







Harness

[RF RIDER]

Kempo;
Wire harness looks great. Very clean. I'm still waiting to order the alum. fuel tanks, I still have C5 plastic ones that I will need to sell. You have to tell me where you bought all the fuel components and the black lines. Again very clean looking and well done. Each time I look at updates from you, my patience for my kit to arrive are getting thin. I think your right about heat shield for the filter and pump, I have no doubt you will come up with something that will compliment the rest of the build. Just have to make it removable for access just in case.

[Kempo]

Kempo;
Wire harness looks great. Very clean. I'm still waiting to order the alum. fuel tanks, I still have C5 plastic ones that I will need to sell. You have to tell me where you bought all the fuel components and the black lines. Again very clean looking and well done. Each time I look at updates from you, my patience for my kit to arrive are getting thin. I think your right about heat shield for the filter and pump, I have no doubt you will come up with something that will compliment the rest of the build. Just have to make it removable for access just in case.

Thanks RF RIDER. Sorry for the delayed reply. Just saw your post today. I got my fuel parts from a local Aeromotive distributor. You can get them directly from Aeromotive on their site or for a better price you can go to Summit racing. I'm sure Summit also carries the black braided lines. I prefer the black ones over the stainless steel braided ones for two reason. The first one is looks. The other is that the black braided on the hoses is a nylon type material that will not scratch everything that rubs against it like the SS ones do. If you are not using a aftermarket fuel rail Aeromotive makes a cool fitting that changes from the OEM GM fuel rail fitting to -8 AN. That way you don't have to modify the stock rail or even change it to run the AN fittings.

[Kempo]

My shocks arrived on Monday. I had seen them yellow in other posts here. Seems like FFR decided to change them to black. They blend better with the rest of the suspension IMHO. As a heads up check the bolts for the shocks that come in the kit. I had to stop working and get new ones. They are too long for the lower position on the rear shocks. I replaced them with 2.5 in bolts so that they would go all the way in without hitting the lower A-arm. I will also replace the front upper and lower shock bolts. They are too long, they look out of place in there.


Fronts





Rears





In this picture you can see tip of the 2.5 in bolt really close to the A-arm. It looks closer than what it actually is. The bolts on my kit were 3 in.

[VD2021]

My shocks arrived on Monday. I had seen them yellow in other posts here. Seems like FFR decided to change them to black. They blend better with the rest of the suspension IMHO. As a heads up check the bolts for the shocks that come in the kit. I had to stop working and get new ones. They are too long for the lower position on the rear shocks. I replaced them with 2.5 in bolts so that they would go all the way in without hitting the lower A-arm. I will also replace the front upper and lower shock bolts. They are too long, they look out of place in there.

You're right. Those are definitely not the right length bolts. Mine had only an 1/8" or so after be torqued to spec. Don't know about the rear bolt because I used Ted's rear shock mount.

BTW. Very nice work and garage. Your build is moving very quickly.

R/s
Vidal

[crash]

Maybe FFR wants to keep as little threaded area as possible in the shock bushing area? Either that or those are the wrong bolts for the location. If they are indeed correct, then shortening them would make them look right, but unfortunately then will be prone to rusting.

[Kempo]

Coolant hoses are done.

[c6_rob]

just want to say, enjoying this thread very much, im all ears

[Kempo]

just want to say, enjoying this thread very much, im all ears

Thanks, Rob.

[Kempo]

Just finished installing/test fitting Shane's rear wing and mount. The fitment and looks are perfect. All those cuts in the aluminum makes it look like a work of art. This mount is one precision built and strong part. Now it's coming off for black anodizing on the top two parts.