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Thread: Where to tap in an Accusump?

  1. #1
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    Hindsight's Avatar
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    Where to tap in an Accusump?

    I don't remember where but there is a thread that discusses it. The consensus is that the galley plug on the front of the block to the left of (and above) the crankshaft is a great place, but that's blocked by the alternator bracket adjuster I am using. I could possibly use the oil pressure sensor location, but not sure that would be big enough.

    Curious to see if anyone is running one and if so, where they are porting it in.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I have not done my Accusump yet. I was going to use the outlet side of the oil pump.
    Bob
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  3. #3
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    I like that.... Didnt know it was there. Thanks!

  4. #4
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    The left galley plug is an ideal location. There are other good options.
    Yes, that plug on the pump could be tapped or better yet, that plug gets a 90° fitting welded to it that you could then screw a hose fitting into. My concern is clearance with the exhaust.
    subaru-eq-headers.jpg
    Some might leave you room and some exhaust system perhaps not. I think I had to rule that out with my Full Race pipes.
    However, there are still other options! There is room to weld a bug to the front of the oil pump just above the plug on the bottom. It could clear the front cover, too. It could also be done a little higher and a hole made in the cover.
    2.5-subie-engine.jpg
    I looked through your build thread and it appears that you have a stock filter setup. If you could do a Canton adapter and remote filter then your problems are solved. I covered my STi's setup here. I T'd off the return hose, but there are many filter blocks with extra taps on them where an Accusump could be plugged in.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the info.

    Good point about headers..... I'm running a stock exhaust manifold for now. I may change to an EL header when I upgrade to the dom 1.5xtr but I guess I could worry about it later.

    What size AN do you suggest for oil? -10?

    I like the remote filter idea. I'm thinking about running a remote oil cooler so using that adapter would allow me to do both. I'm not sure how I'd run a thermostat with the remote cooler AND a remote filter though.

    Edit, nevermind the last question... figured it out by looking at this: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/a...ral/Mocalb.jpg

    I guess I'd just put the filter and the accusump behind the remote thermostat. Only issue with all this is that I'm going to have a TON of oil lines running everywhere. It's going to look like a dry sump in there.

    I do have a question about the Canton adapter you mentioned: Can I remove the factory oil/water cooler and bolt that in? Or do I have to bolt it to the factory oil/water cooler. Based on VW oil coolers I've removed and replaced, I would imagine you could do it either way but I'm new to Subies.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 03-26-2015 at 08:57 AM.

  6. #6
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    That is the exact setup on my STi. And, yes, AN-10 at least. That is what I run. Between the oil filter and the sandwich* plate (as they call it) is where I "T" in my Accusump. The filter should have a one-way check valve in it so you won't need to add that.
    My 818R will be different since I am doing dry sump.

    * I would not call that a sandwich plate because it sandwiches nothing. It is an adapter plate. BTW, I really like my Canton.

  7. #7
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    Thanks - so can I remove the factory air-to-oil cooler, if I use that Canton adapter?

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    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    I personally would run -12 AN for oil
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  9. #9
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Look at this post for my full STi setup. Except, in that post I left out Subaru part 15018aa050, the shorter threaded tube called a union, that you use when you replace the long, tube union when eliminating the heat exchanger (or air to oil cooler, as you call it).
    Here's the essence of that post:
    I use a Canton 90 degree, rotating, remote oil filter adapter (22-597), Canton Remote Oil Filter mount (#22-625 takes Ford style, 3/4-16" thread, filters (I use K&N HP 3001 filters), Mocal OT2, 176°F thermostat bypass valve, Setrab 12x12x2 oil cooler and two quartAccusump. I use -10 AN size hose/fittings.

    This shows my Full Race headers and the Canton adapter. I have one inch of clearance between the output fitting and the header wrap. I have 1-1/2" clearance between the incoming oil fitting and the header wrap. In a perfect world you might want to shave a small amount off the timing cover to not rub against the oil output AN fitting's nut.

    There is this Mishimoto filter block that has a built-in thermostatic bypass valve and a tap for oil going in and out but unless you do something fancy it requires running a filter on it (and I don't know exactly how it mounts or if it eliminates the heat exchanger). Someone here on the 818 forum mentioned it.





  10. #10
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    Perfect thank you both. I meant to say "factory oil to water cooler", not "oil to air", since the factory unit uses coolant to cool/heat the oil, same as the VW's I'm used to working on.

  11. #11
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I have no issue with running -12 AN fittings. I would point out that most filter mounts and related pieces use 1/2" NPT fittings and that equates to 1/2 " ID. The -10 AN is about the same. There is only one place where the engine oil passages exceed 1/2" ID, and that's where it comes out of the pump. My -10AN hose/fittings on my STi allow the Accusump (on about a six foot hose run) to equalize or substantially drain at start-up within a few seconds. I'd guess around five, but perhaps ten. That's with 35 degree 10w-40. Just took it out of the garage today. It wants to race real bad...
    I stand to be corrected.

  12. #12
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    Ok, another question. Lets say I dont run an accusump right off the bat and just run a remote cooler with a sandwich plate. The cooler would go up behind the fender vent in front of the rear tire. That means the cooler will be higher than the sandwich plate. My concern is oil from the cooler and lines draining back to the pan after shutoff, which means on startup, there will be a delay for oil pressure while the lines and cooler refill. Not good. Unless I am missing something?

  13. #13
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Ok, another question. Lets say I dont run an accusump right off the bat and just run a remote cooler with a sandwich plate. The cooler would go up behind the fender vent in front of the rear tire. That means the cooler will be higher than the sandwich plate. My concern is oil from the cooler and lines draining back to the pan after shutoff, which means on startup, there will be a delay for oil pressure while the lines and cooler refill. Not good. Unless I am missing something?
    Hindsight,
    The oil pump does not let oil back flow to the pan.
    The pump is a positive displacement pump with pretty tight clearances.
    Bob
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  14. #14
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Interesting how in that drawing they call the heat exchanger an oil cooler.
    I have a 1/2" FNPT check valve if you want it... I have the Canton remote filter mount and my filter has a check valve (or anti-drainback valve) built into it. Did not realize that initially.
    I would tend to agree with Bob, though I can't prove it. Anecdotally, I've started my engine many times without priming it first with the Accusump and I see immediate pressure. I use a manual valve on my Accusump.
    I think the resistance of the pump and the suction that exists in the lines keeps the oil in the lines. Like putting your finger over the end of a straw allows you to hold water in the straw. The oil can't go backwards once it's left the filter.
    I like to use the term "Hell-hole". That's where the stock filter is. I would get it out of there if you're going to run the engine hard for extended periods. With headers, they must be wrapped well or you make it even worse.
    Then, add the Accusump whenever.

  15. #15
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    Thanks guys, very helpful!!

  16. #16
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Another thing (backing up), Re, Accusump plumb-in spots: If you don't want to go the remote filter route and your sandwich plate/adapter doesn't have extra ports (plus it's hot and congested down there), you can tap into the main galleries, where the AVCS oil pressure sensor is located and other spots where the main galleries have plugs:

    Move the AVCS sensor adapter

    over to a blank plug on another spot on top, to the rear or into banjo bolts. Now, put a 18mm to -10AN fitting in the hole.
    I think you can come straight down, alongside the alternator with your hose or you might want to use a 90° or 120° hose end. I can't physically see it all together to tell you what routing is possible.
    The only caveats I want to make is the one below and that if you have a running engine (that isn't torn down) the removal of the gallery plugs could let sealant fall into the galleries. This could/would go straight to the bearings! It might be near impossible to "Hoover up" all the little bits that could potentially fall in. I'd look at doing this only during a rebuild.

    This discussion is somewhat self-serving. I have long wanted to better understand the oil routing in the galleries in a Subie motor. Now, I feel like I have additional options.
    Note: the stock sensor adapter is a bit oddball. It is straight 18 x 1.5 Metric threads and the small hole is 1/8 x 28 threaded BSP or British Standard Pipe threads (not 1/8" FNPT). Almost everyone taps that hole out to 1/8" NPT or uses a BSP to NPT adapter that sometimes comes with senders and gauges. A 1/8" MNPT will not fit properly in a BSP hole. You can't get enough thread contact!

    Note too that some engine builders work their magic on the galleries. Some drill them out larger and many remove material in the main galleries to make 90° bends have smoother transitions by radiusing the inside corner. The passages in the heads have a taper. I just did that detail work to one my cases.
    Last edited by Scargo; 09-11-2016 at 11:59 AM. Reason: correction/clarification

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the additional info. Running a remote cooler, it should be really easy to tap an accusump into the line whenever I want. I ended up going with a mocal sandwich plate since it will simplify hoses (don't have to deal with an external thermostat and all the associated hoses), and will just keep the oil filter in the stock location.

    I do need to tap into the block to run sensors (the mocal plate doesn't have them). I will remove the stock oil pressure sensor and put an aftermarket one in its place, and I'll install the fitting like you show above into the galley plug below it for the oil temp sensor. That plug is blocked off by Mike Everson's alternator relocation bracket but I think I can fab up something to move that bracket out of the way. With regards to the sealant falling into the galleys, I'm going to just have to chance it since I don't have any other options (aside from splicing one into the oil cooler lines but I'm not going to do that).

  18. #18
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Try this image search for banjo bolt adapter sender. I used one of these for a while for oil temp.
    AM2276.JPG
    Last edited by Scargo; 09-11-2016 at 12:02 PM.

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