Kurk,
I need the second set. Let me know where to send you payment.
Thanks, NorCal Ray
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Kurk,
I need the second set. Let me know where to send you payment.
Thanks, NorCal Ray
If you decide to do them in carbon, then I'm in for sure...
Need some for the green machine!
Awesome look! I wonder if they work with VRaptor's louvers?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
How do they attach at the front? If they are effective, I'd imagine there's going to be a lot of force on the front corners. I guess chad will be doing some testing shortly so we'll know soon enough.
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
Those look great. I cant wait to get them on the car.
I may have to mount them differently since I don't have any flange on the outside of my vent's. I cut them alot more. I will still figure out a way to mount them.
I was not a fan of VRators side aluminum louvers to begin with, so I'm not worried about those. There are simple things you can do with a bigger scoop to slow and direct airflow (Aluminum Mesh grill insert and adding a piece of aluminum to the Wheel Splash guard that has an arc). If that needs to be done at all.
I forgot to add that I will be using these inside both vents to aid airflow to my oil cooler (3" hose also).
Last edited by C.Plavan; 04-30-2015 at 09:01 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
AAF-ALL42141_ml.jpgI see these at a lot of places and some sellers are very proud of them. Where do you buy yours?
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I'm Confused,
Twice above, the mention of slowing down the airflow into the scoop has ben mentioned.
I think bringing the fastest, most, air into the scoop would give you the best cooling. I want the largest volume air to swirl around the engine compartment and then get sucked out the back of the car as fast as possible. Faster moving air always gives you more cooling.
Can someone explain why you would want to slow down the air at the intake scoop?
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Beyond the looks, I'm not seeing functional value, as these will disrupt the airflow down the side of the car and have an impact on the rear low pressure area. There is nothing to slowdown the air and increase the pressure and opening up the area around the scoop just defeats the aerodynamics for air flow/cooling. The side scoop is not in a high pressure area, this is in a slow-moving air that clings to the side surface of the car, a scoop needs to be above this area
Last edited by FFRSpec72; 04-30-2015 at 10:33 AM.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Last edited by FFRSpec72; 04-30-2015 at 10:27 AM.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Last edited by FFRSpec72; 04-30-2015 at 10:55 AM.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Tony,
With all due respect, once you have a running car or have done testing on your own, you can make a statement like that. I can tell you the stock side vents do not flow enough air at speed. We are thinking with the added door vents on my R, we need something to "catch" more air because of the velocity/turbulence of the air being thrown out of those vents. My air intake was right in that vent, it was not getting enough air, and the air it was getting was hot(combination of flow and amount of air). If there was more forced, directed air coming in, that would not of happened. I had to move my air intake up to the passenger hump area, and run hatchless to get cool air coming into the intake. The same goes for my version 1, oil cooler vent intakes that were also attached to the side vents on the inside. Granted, I have now made an insulated box for my oil cooler, more air will help.
Honestly, who cares about disrupted air down the back 1/4 side of the car if it means better cooling and more forced air in the side vents. That is not even anything I am slightly worry about. No one will even feel that.
If you want to finish your car so I am not the only one out here on the track trying to get everything working in harmony, please get building and finish it up. I think everyone would appreciate "Real World" testing from multiple sources. That is what I am trying to do.
I don't think it is at all productive to criticize Kurk818's work without it even being tested yet. I can tell you definitively that the stock vents were not working for me, on the track.
Bob- Notice my last sentence in the quote. I'm not at all sure about that either.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
My car will be done soon and out on the track so thanks for your concern. There are some things that one can figure out w/o actually having the car on the track, this is one of them. There is also nothing wrong with expressing opinions and experiences here, unless you believe yours are the only ones that counts.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Sorry to hijack Kurk818- However, It looks as if the Holiday Inn stock should be going up. Because we are all experts.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Kurk,
I love your scoops. If anything I wish they were a little bigger.
Looks like I will put my oil HE in the left side and my AWIC HE in the right side.
Autocross test and tune in 8 days and track day in 30 days.
Right now I have no data logging of temperatures. I need to work on that.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 04-30-2015 at 11:46 AM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Tony is correct that slower flows have a higher pressure than a fast moving flow. This is how airplane wings work. Pressure must increase with slower flows in order to conserve energy. Think of blowing air on the front of the car. In the free stream, pressure is lower, as it hits the windshield, the flow slows down and pressure increases. If it helps, imagine that the air can't escape fast enough and is being pressed on by the incoming faster air and that is how pressure builds.
Ideally you want a low pressure zone in the back with a high pressure zone in the front to feed the low pressure zone. The potential energy terms and the density terms (assuming less than mach .3) of bernoulli's equation cancel, so we're only dealing with velocities and pressures. By slowing the air at the inlet you increase pressure and create a higher pressure differential across the engine bay. However, his needs to be balance with total flow for the required heat transfer and the equations of conservation of mass where a smaller closed area has a higher flow velocity.
Lots of times race cars have radiators in the side pods with a small inlet area leading to a diverging nozzle at the radiator. The back side of the radiator has a converging nozzle. This increases the flow speeds at the inlet and outlet and slows it where the radiator is to allow more time for heat to transfer from the radiator to the air. Sure, you can get a larger radiator inlet area, but at the expense of more drag. These are some of the games you can play to optimize setups and use the air you have vs just cramming in more air.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
The scoops are there to catch more air. How you funnel it is up to you.
Im learning as i go, i hope we all are.
I understand all that, but what makes me wonder is all the engine compartment air escape routes (bottom of motor, top vent, rear vents). Its not a perfect environment and I know its all related. We do not have the funds, expertise, or way of measurement to make any conclusive findings. We are going by Armchair Quarterbacking. If I get the cooling I need- perfect.
My oil cooler insulated box is more Bernoulli's Equation, than that of the engine compartment. My example: 3" ducts from portion of Kurk's side vents--->3" duct hose----> to oil cooler attached ducts---->to insulated oil cooler box.
BTW- I will do some yarn tuft and gopro tests around my loop next week.
I'm good with these on this mid engine
Last edited by C.Plavan; 04-30-2015 at 12:09 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
not to get off topic but Chad, you mentioned how violent the air coming out of the front wheel vents was... any thoughts on ditching the vents, and ducting that air through the doors to the back? or do you think the air is too hot from the rad?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
To bad the windtunnel video FFR made doesn't show more detail we could actually use.
http://www.factoryfive.com/videos/project-818/
Russian built such great cars in the 60's that they didnt bother to make any more advances in technology.
If its good enough for Putin, its good enough for me
800px-Putin_with_his_1972_Zaporozhets.jpg
Maybe you should add a chrome lip to your vent. It makes the Zaporozhets look racy!
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).