Exhaust Header Bolts

[JOE A]

Well, the engine is in and I trial fitted the headers. The FFR supplied bolts do not appear to be correct. If you consider the thickness of the header flange, the gasket thickness and the chamfer in the head, there is not too much thread in the aluminum head. In addition, a standard socket will not go on the bolt as the socket outside diameter hits the header tube. Has anybody found a replacement for this 3/4" bolt? I tried some socket head cap screws but the head was slightly larger in diameter and also interfered with the header tube. Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

[Arvin]

I am building the roadster so it may not be exactly the same. I had issues with installing the FFR headers on the engine (clearances, etc). Can't use socket head cap screws - head too big. I first used the supplied ARP hex head bolts but really couldn't get them torqued down - ended up using locktite. Bolts started falling out immediately. Ended up buying stage 8 bolts and havn't had issues since. You have to modify the clips for the stage 8 bolts but they show you how and max you can modify them.

[oldguy668]

I have had to use 1" to 1 1/8" bolts on every set of FFR headers. They have a very thick flange, which is not a bad thing, but they do require extra length. I have used both socket head and 12 point head, and either works well except for one bolt near the back of the left side. That one is always a bugger.

[JOE A]

Thanks for the input. I never heard of the Stage 8 bolts, but they look like the answer. I notice that Ford Racing also offers a set, but it is still 3/4" in length. Summit has a 1" set so that looks like the route I will take.

[edwardb]

Either Stage 8 or Percy's Vibe-Lock. I've used both. Not sure which I liked better. Both do the same thing, just a little differently. For my Mk4 Roadster with FFR headers (BBK) 1 inch long Percy's Vibe-Lock Header Fasteners 310001 and they worked perfectly. Neither option is cheap BTW.

[kiki231]

i bought a set of lockers from summit and they worked wonderfully. Just about all of the long-time drivers complain that the bolts tend to loosen over time, and i didn't want that.
Also, some heads require that the flange on the headers be chamfered to ensure a flat seal. I have edelbrock performers on my 347, and they were fine.

[JOE A]

Well I ordered the Stage 8 bolts from Summit; Ford Racing, 1" length. Note that the headers are FFR supplied and not aftermarket. As you all probably know, you have to get all the bolts on the header flange, then turn them in a few turns at a time since the bolt heads interfere with the header tube 1/2" out from the flange. You cant get a socket on them and a 7/16 open end wrench is a task to tighten them (no torque). The problem then continues with installing the locking washers. They all require grinding so much, that the washer will no longer "encapsulate" the bolt head and literally falls off the bolt head. Putting on the snap ring serves no purpose. At $70.00 the set, they are going back. Back to a set of 1", socket head, stainless steel, cap head bolts.

[edwardb]

Well I ordered the Stage 8 bolts from Summit; Ford Racing, 1" length. Note that the headers are FFR supplied and not aftermarket. As you all probably know, you have to get all the bolts on the header flange, then turn them in a few turns at a time since the bolt heads interfere with the header tube 1/2" out from the flange. You cant get a socket on them and a 7/16 open end wrench is a task to tighten them (no torque). The problem then continues with installing the locking washers. They all require grinding so much, that the washer will no longer "encapsulate" the bolt head and literally falls off the bolt head. Putting on the snap ring serves no purpose. At $70.00 the set, they are going back. Back to a set of 1", socket head, stainless steel, cap head bolts.

I'm having a little trouble understanding what you're describing about the Stage 8's. Sometimes it's necessary to adjust the locking tab by grinding it some, but only in the outside triangular area so that it firmly rests against the header in one of the keyed positions. But the hole where it keys onto the head of the bolt and held with the C-clip shouldn't be affected. But some of what you're describing is why the Percy's (now Taylor) Vibe-Locks are popular. They lock in whatever final position by just turning in the allen head screw. No grinding or adjusting required.

[pakrat57]

You could always drill the bolt head (or buy pre-drilled) and use safety wire.

[kiki231]

I'm having a little trouble understanding what you're describing about the Stage 8's.

That makes two of us. A few pics would be great. Mine is also running the FFR supplied headers, albeit on Edel aluminum performer heads. Although a tad difficult to tighten a few of them, all had my 7/16" on them.


The only thing i can figure is that there is a new design on the headers supplied by the factory since i built mine (2013), and if i am picturing this correctly, the exhaust tubes themselves must be bigger than mine. I can confirm that every Stage 8 bolt i used seated fully onto the header flange without the bolt-head or c-clip touching the pipes. I couldn't get a socket on them, but i could get an open-end wrench on all.

I'll post some pics as soon as i can

[kiki231]

and here is a pic looking down onto the header flange -- 1" Stage 8 Bolts. As you can see my head pipes are pinched in where the bolt holes are, so i assume yours aren't pinched in quite as tight, reducing bolt room.FullSizeRender[1].jpg

[JOE A]

Chris, Thanks for the photo. You are correct, the header tube is so close to the bolt head that the retainer (not the c clip) cannot be installed over the bolt head. The retainer would require so much grinding that it opens up, defeating its purpose.

[cjcnj01]

Run down to the hardware store and ask them for a header wrench like this one.

[Bob Cowan]

The bolts need to extend at least 3/4" into the hole. More than that is just bonus.

Years ago I used the Stage 8's. They worked well, but are a PITA to remove and install.

Allen bolts won't fit in about half of the spaces.

Small head header bolts are necessary because of the tight space. I prefer 6 point bolts, because you can use an open end or box wrench on those.

It's helps if you use a small hammer and add a little extra clearance in the tight spots. You'd be surprised what a difference 1/8" makes.

I don't use a locking bolt. I don;t use gaskets, either. A tin coat of high temp silicone will seal the gasket area and lock in the bolts at the same time. They never come loose.

[Paul G]

I use Permatex Ultra Copper RTV gasket maker on both end of the headers, no gaskets, no leaks and the no loose bolts. I had over 30,000 miles on the headers before I had to remove the engine. Seals great and easy to remove. Only trick is to let it sit overnight before starting the engine.