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Thread: Zero Decibel Motorsport AWIC Non-Clocked Turbo Install

  1. #1
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    Zero Decibel Motorsport AWIC Non-Clocked Turbo Install

    Here is everything I received with the kit. (Note: The pump wasn't included in the picture)

    Close up of the hardware.

    First Step: Wrap all of the fitting threads with teflon tape and insert with a 22 mm or 7/8" wrench.




    Install all of the silicone bends and BOV/BPV tube as shown and clamp in place using the following clamp sizes. Tighten using a 10 mm wrench.
    AWIC Connection - 87/79 clamp
    BOV Tubing - 75/67 clamp
    Straight Piping - 62/54 clamp
    Turbo - 58/50 clamp
    Throttle Body - 81/76 clamp

    Last edited by EODTech87; 10-08-2017 at 06:37 PM.
    -Jason

  2. #2
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    Lay the AWIC in place and measure the gap to determine where to cut the aluminum piping.


    Take your meaurement and add 2" so you can clamp the silicone onto the aluminum. My total length came out to 10". Measure, mark, and cut the aluminum piping.



    Install the AWIC brackets and aluminum piping onto the turbo.(Front bracket not shown)
    Last edited by EODTech87; 10-08-2017 at 06:38 PM.
    -Jason

  3. #3
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    Attach the AWIC onto the throttle body and tighten the clamps while hold the AWIC in line with the TB.
    Once tightened allow the AWIC to rest on the cross brace and insert the cut aluminum piping into the silicone elbow and tighten.

    Attach the AWIC to the brackets using the provided hardware and a 5 mm Hex Key ensuring to place a rubber washer between the AWIC and the mount.


    NOTE: Ensure you place a bolts into all 3 mounting holes on the AWIC as they are drilled all the way through and will cause a leak if you don't.
    You are now complete with the AWIC install.


    Last edited by EODTech87; 10-08-2017 at 06:53 PM.
    -Jason

  4. #4
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    Loosely attach the brackets to the heat exchanger using a 7/16" Wrench and a 5/32" Hex Key and attach the foam padding.



    While holding the HE in place mark the hole locations for the brackets and drill using a 3/8" drill bit.
    Next insert the rivnuts and attach the HE using a 4 mm Hex Key.


    Using a dead blow hammer, hammer down the top tabs so that they are flush with the tubing and drill out using a 5/16" drill bit.

    Insert the rivnuts and attach the HE using a 1/8" Hex Key.
    You are now complete with the Heat Exchanger install.

    NOTE:I didn't post any instructions for mounting the water pump or running the lines because there are many ways to route these and I'll leave it to each individual to determine the mounting location and routing that best fits their needs/build.
    Last edited by EODTech87; 10-08-2017 at 06:45 PM.
    -Jason

  5. #5
    Thanks for the write up Jason!
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  6. #6
    Very nice write up and a great 818 AWIC kit!

    Super job Craig and Jason!

  7. #7
    I keep hunting, but I haven't found the price for this kit yet. How much is Zero Decibel Motorsport charging?

  8. #8
    I sell the brackets on my site. The frozenboost parts are drop shipped and 5% off list for most things, 2% off list for prepaired core/he kits from them. Email me for details.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  9. #9
    What BOV or BPV is that you are using, and do you have experience with it? Does it work well? Does it come from Frozenboost as well?
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
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  10. #10
    Its from FrozenBoost. No experience with it yet but I thought I'd give it a try. Its a greddy knock off.
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  11. #11
    What about the re-circulation line? The one from the BOV to the intake? The stock one will no longer reach and the the stock tube has a jog molded into it, so just replacing the whole tube is challenging. The stock rubber tube has a larger diameter on the BOV end.
    I was going to try and cut back the stock tube till the id was 1" then put a barb-barb fitting with a 1" id extension flexible pvc tube.

  12. #12
    Or if you are just going to vent it out, how do you plug the intake hole? Is it a big deal to drive around with the stock tune and change the venting? I've read that it will get richer at shifts. Is that a concern for a little while? I plan on driving, legally, on the streets next week and want to know what my limitations and hurdles are.

  13. #13
    Using a vent to atmosphere (VTA) BOV will make it run a little richer during a shift and make it much more likely to blow fireballs out the back. There was an article on NASIOC a while back comparing BPV vs BOV AFR at shift points and it really wasn't all that different. Spool up time after a shift will change slightly. If you want to recirc it, Steve sent me a nice writeup on how to do that. I'll host those photos shortly.

    I looked, and thought I had posted this file, but maybe I only put it on facebook. It's the complete BOM for the frozenboost parts you need with prices filled in. Prepaired kits are 2% off list, everything else (couplers, clamps, tubing) is 5% of list.

    Product page on my website:
    http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/pr...ercooler-awic/

    Direct link to BOM: (please let me know if permissions are set to allow you to view it)
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7n...NJaHlnUjQ/edit

    Base price for drop shipped parts: $501 for non clocked version.

    Heat exchanger brackets are here: http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/pr...ting-brackets/
    Rear AWIC core mount is here: http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/pr...nting-bracket/

    Front AWIC core is coming. The system is pretty sturdy without the front bracket so you can get everything started, but for longevity I wouldn't want to drive it without a front bracket and stress the silicone coupler.
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  14. #14
    Here is what Steve did to recirculate his BPV.

    The stock BPV hose was attached to the turbo inlet and then two 90 deg 1.25" silicone hoses and two short metal couplings along with clamps. Depending on your model year of the donor you may have to trim the metal heater core lines before fitting the tubing to recirculate the coolant.

    The silicone is most inexpensively obtained from ebay. For the hoses search for "Black 1.25"-1 1/4" 90 Degree Silicone Hose Coupler 32mm Intercooler Pipe Turbo".

    The couplers can be found on frozenboost for $7.59 if you order through me ($7.99 if you order direct yourself):
    http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php...5e9fa86791a24c

    or from ebay for $7.80 (search for "ALUMINUM COUPLER PIPE JOINER HOSE CONNECTOR POLISHED 32mm 1.25" inch")

    T bolt Clamps: Order from ebay, search for "2PCS 1.25" inch Turbo Pipe Hose Coupler T-bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 37-42mm ", $5.42 for 2.

    Coming off the BPV


    Connecting to turbo inlet:


    Trimmed heater core hoses. The 06/07 Donors have a different arrangement that does not need trimming.
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  15. #15
    Hi Craig.

    You have developed an outstanding non-clocked turbo AWIC Kit.
    Thank you for making such nice custom hardware available to me and also to the entire 818 community!

    Steve

  16. #16
    Dont forget to install a bleeder valve on the core.
    Thanks- Chad
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  17. #17
    What are the two nipples on the BOV/BPV for? They look like vacuum hose connections.

  18. #18
    Those are the knock off Greddy RS BOV/BPV. One is for the vacuum reference, the other is often left open but it can be hooked up to another source (forget boost or vacuum) to try and get faster control of the plunger. The OEM doesn't have that.
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  19. #19
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Those are the knock off Greddy RS BOV/BPV. One is for the vacuum reference, the other is often left open but it can be hooked up to another source (forget boost or vacuum) to try and get faster control of the plunger. The OEM doesn't have that.
    The OEM unit has the extra port built into the base.

    bov.jpg
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  20. #20
    Just to be clear, you can use the stock BPV in place of the Greddy style BOVs shown here, but I would need to drill new holes in the stock flange to attach it. Is it really possible to get a good seal that way? Has anyone tried it?

    Edit: I made an adapter plate. Seems to work great.
    Last edited by Buzz Skyline; 06-28-2015 at 07:30 PM.

  21. #21
    After installing the non-clocked turbo version, I'm thinking I might go with clocking after all. Is there a good write up somewhere explaining how to do it?

  22. #22
    No, not yet. I have a few pictures from Bob. I have a third junk turbo I can take apart and take photos with.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  23. #23
    Do you sell the bracket that we need to clock the turbo? Or is that something I would buy somewhere else?

    BTW, thanks for the AWIC kit and brackets. It's all going together well and looks great. Just waiting on ebay silicone elbows to arrive now.

  24. #24
    I have a bracket to clock the stock TD04.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  25. #25
    Great write up for those of us who will be doing this in the future.

    What does "clocked" vs "non-clocked" mean?

  26. #26
    It refers to the turbo. Non clocked means the turbo stays in it's stock configuration. Clocking means you rotate the compressor housing (the aluminum piece) to change the angle of the outlet so you can have different flow paths (in this case, shorter with fewer bends).
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  27. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    It refers to the turbo. Non clocked means the turbo stays in it's stock configuration. Clocking means you rotate the compressor housing (the aluminum piece) to change the angle of the outlet so you can have different flow paths (in this case, shorter with fewer bends).
    Rotating the compressor and exhaust housings like the hands of a clock....got it. Of course, makes sense.

  28. #28
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Here is my turbo compressor at 9 o'clock (stock) and 11 o'clock.

    tttt.jpg

    tttc.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 12-03-2015 at 11:11 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  29. #29
    Mechie3 in these two installations the BPV is in the hot pipe. The second one is plumbed back into the intake which I think is very questionable. That's scorching hot compressed air being shot right back into the intake which can only double the load on the AWIC. If it's going VTA then that's not an issue.

    On your website I found this picture of the BPV vented off the cold side of the AWIC, which makes more sense. Is this an option or is this the way you supply the AWIC now?

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  30. #30
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    Hot or cold side placement of the BOV/BPV is actually a very common discussion. You can really place it on either side as there isn't a huge difference. Some people say placing it closer to the throttle body gives slightly better throttle response while some people say placing it closer to the turbo keeps the piping and intercooler "full" of air between shifts. As for temperature you're either cooling the air twice from a lower temperature or cooling it once from a higher temperature. Also remember that while the temperature of the air increases when it's compressed it's going to decrease once it's decompressed.
    -Jason

  31. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    Is this an option or is this the way you supply the AWIC now?
    I only drop ship the frozenboost parts, which is one reason my kit is much more inexpensive. The brackets ship from me and are bolt on. For the FB parts you have to cut the metal pipe to length, modify the Subaru BPV if you want to reuse it vs aftermarket, and if you decide you want bungs put on for temp sensors that is up to you as well. The standard kit comes with the BPV pipe, those going for the rotated kit can either put the BPV pipe in the rotated piping or they can modify the front of the core (cut off the tab, sand it flat, or if you have a mill, mill it off).

    EODtech is correct in that the temp increases due to pressure increases and would decrease when decompressed.

    PV = nRT. n and R are constant for this scenario, V changes somewhat. T originally increased because P increased due to compression. As P decreases when the BPV vents and the pressure in the BPV line must equal the pressure in the turbo inlet, T must also decrease to balance the equation.
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  32. #32
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    I fixed the pictures since Photobucket nuked linking pictures.
    -Jason

  33. #33
    Thanks Jason!
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  34. #34
    [ATTACH]75573[/ATTACHBPV TUBE LOCATION.jpg
    Question about install, please see pictures.
    1st. picture, I read that stock BPV can be used, but confused as the pipe out let is curved won't fit the pipes that were told to buy, is there another one needed?
    2nd. picture the tube to attached from the turbo to BPV in post #14, mine does not come out that way, what did others do?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  35. #35
    Forget about the pipe, Craig steered me in the right direction, should have not take off the pipe, but still confused about the BPV pipe orientation.

  36. #36
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chef818 View Post
    Forget about the pipe, Craig steered me in the right direction, should have not take off the pipe, but still confused about the BPV pipe orientation.
    Most others don't use the stock BPV, they go aftermarket. Your options would be to try and find some tubing/couplers to route the return hose back into the intake, get an aftermarket BPV with a different outlet, or just get a BOV that vents to atmosphere.

  37. #37
    If memory serves me correctly, I used the stock bov and turned the outlet around 180. I think I had to grind off a tab to do it, but it gave me clearance past the pipe.

  38. #38
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I used the stock BOV right on the intercooler with a Greddy style gasket.
    My bolts go from inside to out. The alum. wasn't thick enough to just tap holes.
    I drilled one mounting hole in the oem valve.
    P1050194c.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-26-2017 at 11:54 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  39. #39
    This picture shows where I drilled new holes to match the pattern of the greddy gasket.


    This picture shows the rib I ground off for clearance for the nut. I mounted mine on the front of the core as well. Huge pain in the butt trying to get the screws into the core, back out, and tightened. If I remember correctly, after this pic I smoothed it over a bit and painted it so it didn't look so rough. I also used lock nuts. I went bolts on the inside so that if it ever loosed up I could see the nut loose vs loosing it inside the core and in the engine.
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  40. #40
    May have been easier to use AN hardware with locking jet nuts. These nuts are smaller OD than regular hardware with a little flange on one side which allows them to stay upside down in a closed end wrench without falling through. The bolts could then be reversed for ease of installation and the pinched ID jet nuts will never loosen.

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