Here's my single wiper with the donor motor and donor arm. I don't have to cut my hood and this allows the remote reservoir and removing the windshield. Now you've got lots of choices so hopefully one works for you.
Wiper motor mounted.JPG
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Here's my single wiper with the donor motor and donor arm. I don't have to cut my hood and this allows the remote reservoir and removing the windshield. Now you've got lots of choices so hopefully one works for you.
Wiper motor mounted.JPG
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I cannot thank Brian from iwire enough. Not only is his harness beautiful, easy to install, his customer service is world class. He answers my emails in a timely manner and is always there to make sure I don't electrocute myself.
I just got done wiring a boat wiper motor, it worked perfect first time. I am having issues with my horn and he is sending me pics on possible solutions. Great guy and great craftsman.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Horn does not work, traced to what I believe is clock spring.
Anyone have any input on difficulty changing that? I am tempted just to run a small button for horn to pass inspection.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Super easy. Four thin but long screws. Remove the steering wheel and you'll be looking right at it. Black plastic roundish thing with four screws holding it to the whitexhaust plastic steering column lever assembly.
Before you do all that though, find the wire for the-brake horn that plugs into theach clock spring and jumper it to ground. If you don't hear your relay click and horn come on, it's not the clock spring. If you do, double check that your horn wire has a ground.
anybody have an inexpensive source for a clockspring.
They want 150.00 for that
cheaper to run a horn button
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Can get them for under $100 on eBay, sometimes a little less. They are expensive because they do fail on their own, and I think you need one after your ABS goes off but I'm not 100% certain of that.
I've been looking at them on eBay too. I had planned to use my new Momo wheel with the bell works hub with a new clockspring but the washer button is an interesting idea and saves the cost of a clockspring (which my phone autocorrected to cockspur).
thanks for the idea, I need to speak to Iwire regarding the washer button as my wipers go on when I push the washer. I have been struggling with the doors. Wayne's thread and Tamra's thread proved very heIMG_0315.JPGlpful. I was not liking the way the door release was mounted. I added some support under it. It really secures the feel to it.
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818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
It gets comical, as I finish and solve an issue another one pops up. I went to install the side view mirrors and see that they do not fit. Anyone find any inexpensive aftermarket ones that fit?
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
These are the cheapest and I remember guys having them on lowriders and stuff in the 80's:
http://www.mooreparts.com/black-baby...left-or-right/
Google search this for several ideas: side mirrors 818 site:thefactoryfiveforum.com
I actually ordered a pair of mirrors off eBay today but they weren't that cheap. Cheaper than the $300-$500 ones I see a lot (like from APR etc): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-F1...JTGUvM&vxp=mtr
Speedway, Hollywood mirrors
Front.jpg
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
After ruining 2 door liners I finally was able to complete both doors and be reasonably happy with the results. Mounting the completed doors was really easy if you follow Wayne's hints and Tamra's instructions. Gap is acceptable. I am now trying to get the front fenders back on and aligned. I suspect I will be doing lots of grinding and adding material as I already see alignment issues. IMG_0324.JPGIMG_0325.JPGIMG_0327.JPGIMG_0329.JPGIMG_0331.JPGIMG_0332.JPGIMG_0333.JPGIMG_0334.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
while I struggle with fenders and hood I began the trunk kit. IMG_0335.JPGIMG_0338.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Thanks for that pic of the trunk. It actually looks like that there is decent trunk space in the 818.
I am so close to finishing then I put the next piece on and realize I have so much more to do.
I struggle with the fender and door. If I put the fender when it looks to line up I cannot open the door. It touch's on the bottom. If I move the fender forward or outward to leave clearance to open the door it extends to far forward and out. How is everyone handling this part? Are yours lining up?
Do I simply CUT the fender where the door hits? That is a lot of material. Any insgth or pictures is greatly appreciates.
My wife bought me a Quick Jack by Ranger for my birthday. OMG I wish I had this from the start. Spent yesterday just going up and down.fender door gap2.JPGfender door 3.JPGfender door gap.JPG
Last edited by insurance guy; 04-08-2016 at 07:38 PM. Reason: tried to upload more pics
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I brought my doors in closer to the hinges, probably by another inch compared to what you have, in order to have the doors open properly
I'm in the same spot. With the doors mounted and fenders lined up, the doors hit the fenders
Aero did you bring the fronts of the doors in by moving where the door skins mount on the door frame? I can't really see any other way to do it.
Can you send a pic with them opened and closed
Thanks
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Actually I might be able to bring bottom in but lose alignment with line
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Did you radius the bottom front of the door skin? I think there is a pic in Wayne's door fitting tips thread.
Yes
Followed Wayne's and tamra's install.
I will try moving door bottom in towards hinge, I think I have some play that way but the rear gap comes out.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
The white is hard to photograph. Hopefully you can see the positioning.
AERO STI HAD IT RIGHT ON
I removed the and disassembled the door, took the 2 screws out attaching the fiberglass skin to the steel frame. I was only able to move it about 1/2 " but is was enough to allow have the clearance needed. Now I can open the door with out hitting fender and gaps and body lines are still nice. I still have to do the Drivers side but now at least I know how to resove issue.
Thanks to all who responded and visit this forum. revised fd1.JPGrevised fd2.JPGrevised fd3.JPGrevised fd4.JPG
Last edited by insurance guy; 04-09-2016 at 07:52 AM. Reason: added copy
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I was able to install both fenders and the doors open without any interference. I now move on to try to install the hood and secure the fenders permanently. I will have to sand down the hood to get the gap and transition even and then play around with the corner transition of the hood fender and windshield. Each time I move forward I spend hours just looking at this trying to see how this is supposed to fit. Each built I see has a different take on it. I never have done body work or painting on a car so this is probably the one I will make all the mistakes on. While installing the trunk you have to attach it to the hump lid. It really make that lay perfect. If you have the trunk and need to take off the hump lid you have to unscrew the attachment screws. what a pain to just check oil. I will see if I can devise an easier method.IMG_0371.JPGIMG_0372.JPGIMG_0373.JPGIMG_0374.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Check out Mike Everson's hump hinges/ trunk mounts.Originally Posted by insurance guy;233430 If you have the trunk and need to take off the hump lid you have to unscrew the attachment screws. what a pain to just check oil. I will see if I can devise an easier method.[ATTACH=CONFIG
Really?
You have location, I cannot find them
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
818-S 2.5L Turbo Chassis Number: 404
Kit Order Date: February 19, 2016 Kit Completion Date: March 19, 2016 Kit Ship Date: March 26, 2016 Build Start Date: April 22, 2016
Build Thread: Click Here
I know about that part. The Factory Five Trunk Kit fits under the rear deck lid. It is secured to the Hump Lid. which means the Hump will not open unless you remove the screws securing the trunk.IMG_0338.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I cut a small access door into the hump aluminum, also added a light. Now I don't have to remove the engine cover to check or add oil. I'm working on finishing the aluminum panels with vinyl. You can see how much a small led panel lights up inside the engine compartment by comparing the two photos of the open door. This also allowed me to screw the cover closed, no hinges, no exposed hood pins.
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Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
i am going to steal your idea. Thanks
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Great Idea Dan.
Wish I could use it. We had our humps off 10 time this weekend to check to oil level between each track session.
The top of our non-adjustable seats are against the roll bar blocking access. We are thinking of using the gas cap as a dip stick access.
Bob
seat.jpg
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
My seats hinge, I want to relocate my harness bar to the rear of the roll cage where it is stronger and since I'm vertically challenged (unlike you two!) I need to lower it too. FFR should fill in that corner and put 3 sets of mounting holes at different levels.
Bob, make a removable access panel on the side of the hump? I refuse to haul that engine cover off every time I want to check the oil. I screwed mine down so it isn't easy, it's marginally a 1 person job.
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
thanks for all the help the wiper is installed and it was much easier than I thought. I went with a single marine wiper. The blade will be removed after the NJ inspection as I doubt I would be driving the car in a rainstorm.
I will prop up the hood to give clearance for the wiper arm as I will not be cutting the hood. I need to trim the hood and finalize the front end.
The "todo list" is less than 10 items for completion.IMG_0387.JPGIMG_0388.JPGIMG_0389.JPGIMG_0390.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I am looking for a part number and source for the clockspring. Really would like aftermarket one. they are expensive. Need horn to work for NJ inspection. My donor is a 03 wrx
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016