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Thread: insurance guy 818

  1. #281
    Picked up hardtop and new front end today.
    Inventoried all the pieces and now trying to get all the install documentation. I do not seeing the hard top attaches to the reason the car. Any one can share pics or process it would be appreciated. They had a hardtop in the showroom and I tried to get as many detail pics as possible but once this car is complete finding attachment points are difficult.
    I have the new version of the manual, hardtop and front end are sprinkled throughout. Really? No conversion document, no mention on what to remove from old front end and doors.
    I don't see wiring diagram for power windows. Have to go look for my Strait Jacket. Looks like I will be needing it again.
    O
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  2. #282
    I removed original front end and wiring. I have I wire harness. I can detach the front clip wiring and send to i-wire with new connectors for upgrade.
    Original windshield and frame came off easy. Needed to cut our for master cylinder and clutch reserviour. Prefit is too easy. There is a hardtop in the ffr showroom, I need to find out what attachment clips they used. They are really nice. There is no mention in the manual on where or how to open up airflow for intercooler. Anyone know what needs to be done?
    Will post pics in am
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  3. #283
    As far as the front end, I think there is a thread somewhere in the body section or general about the new front end. I couldn't find it with a quick google search.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  4. #284
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  5. #285
    Alan, see this thread for a few tips about the hard top.
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...tips-add-yours

    Before mounting the hard top you should turn it upside down to complete your headliner, cut out the roof ducts and any other finishing of the inside, such as paint or upholstery.

    I see your dash in place. Don't mount it permanently until the windshield is installed, then you can snug the front against the glass for a nice fit. Regarding the roof air ducts, you should cut out the hole from the 3-inch ducts inside the quarter windows. You can cut a hole to fit whatever tubes you will use but I found that 3-inch flex tubes fit nicely over the roof ducts, so I cut the roof ducts out to the maximum I.D.
    roof duct tube.JPG


    FFR used pins and clips to hold the back corners of the hard top, like the engine covers on the 818S. I wanted hidden fasteners so I epoxied threaded studs onto the back corners of the hard top, then used a diagonal piece to hold the top from underneath. Similarly, you can use threaded studs to hold the hard top along the edges.

    hardtop middle mount.jpghardtop rear mount.jpg
    rear corner - left.JPG

    I see that your hard top has longer A pillars than mine which will help solve the problem of a gap at the bottom of the A pillars where the hood/fender/door/A pillar all come together. That's a needed improvement! Now I'll try to duplicate it on mine. Another improvement in your newer top is that the seams appear to be narrower than on my early top. You haven't sanded them down yet have you?
    Last edited by AZPete; 04-17-2017 at 02:26 PM. Reason: added photos
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  6. #286
    where in the manual does it say all of this???
    can you send a picture of how you routed the air.
    I was thinking of doing the studs for all the locations and holding top down that way.
    Thanks for the info about headliner before doing anything.
    I just put top on to cut away for the brake and clutch reservoir. I also see my wiper is in the way and that needs some cutting.
    thanks for the update
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  7. #287
    Alan, I like to solve puzzles so I don't depend on the manual, hence I don't think all of this is in any manual. OTOH, the most recent update I have is "Q". Is there a more recent update, like "R"?

    I added a couple of photos to post #285 and I have added to the hard top install thread so it might be found by other hard top guys.

    I also had to cut the windshield apron to duplicate my S windshield for the brake & clutch masters, and for the wiper. Then, I found out from FFR that it's alright to trim the windshield all the way across, as long as you leave some of the horizontal surface for support. It allows more work room and, I think, looks better.
    Apron trimmed - left.jpgApron trimmed - right.jpg
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  8. #288
    All old front end pieces were removed
    starting to mock up the new front endIMG_1108.JPGIMG_1109.JPGIMG_1110.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  9. #289
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    506
    FYI your ZDB hood hinge arms are going to need to be replaced to match the new front end. Craig has a new design with more curve.
    '06 WRX Powered 818S - Twin Scroll Borg Warner EFR 7163 - 500 WHP 570 WTQ
    Ethanol or nothing at all
    -Andrew

  10. #290
    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    FYI your ZDB hood hinge arms are going to need to be replaced to match the new front end. Craig has a new design with more curve.
    You can have mine. I bought both hinge arms when I got my last load of parts from Craig... I wasn't sure which front end I was going to go with. Ended up being easier to use the original front end - no iWire changes and my build is going slow enough without swapping front ends part way through. PM me your address and I'll drop them in the mail this weekend. -Noah

  11. #291
    thank you very much
    sent you a pm
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  12. #292
    continued to set up new nose. Manual has very limited instructions with regards to actual placement. I found forum entries and with help of AZPETE set up bottom support 9/16" from front tube and top mount 6 1/2" from rear tube. The Strap that needs to be twisted had nothing other than a diagram. The pics below show how I heated it and bent it 90 degrees, it was not difficult. Now the adjusting of exactly how this is set up begins. I placed the new fenders on the support and see more issues with a post and fender. I had similar issues with original front fenders so this was no surprise. Now its just measure 7 or 8 times and trying not to cut anything. more to comeIMG_1111.JPGIMG_1112.JPGIMG_1113.JPGIMG_1114.JPGIMG_1115.JPGIMG_1116.JPGIMG_1117.JPGIMG_1118.JPGIMG_1119.JPGIMG_1120.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  13. #293
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  14. #294
    FFR has extended the fiberglass on the A pillar to help solve the gap at the hood/fender/door junction. So far, all looks good.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  15. #295
    I cannot seem to find any instructions or pictures on the Hard Top Hatch Gas Strut installation. Anyone has any pic or notes?
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  16. #296
    after installing the new fender supports, I fit the new aluminum panels. The placement I received for the top brackets were incorrect and I adjusted them to fit the aluminum cutouts. I don't know why the manual would not provide the EXACT PLACEMENT of these?? minor issue though. Fitting the aluminum and trimming the hardtop cowl. Does anyone have any pictures or placement of the aluminum that extends 90 degrees from side? IMG_1128.JPGIMG_1129.JPGIMG_1130.JPGIMG_1131.JPGIMG_1132.JPGIMG_1133.JPGIMG_1134.JPGIMG_1135.JPGIMG_1136.JPGIMG_1137.JPG I liked Azpete's way of attaching the hardtop but did not like the small studs available so I fabricated my own using the ones I had. I like larger diameter bolts.
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  17. #297
    I had to adjust my aluminum too for the upper fender supports. It does look like they made the cutout bigger. On mine, the cutout the almost the exact size needed, just in the wrong spot.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  18. #298
    "Does anyone have any pictures or placement of the aluminum that extends 90 degrees from side?"
    I think you mean the front of the front wheel well and you might want to wait on that because if it is in place you can't reach the inside of the headlights. I'd wait until you have the front fenders and headlights (and painting?) done. Also, the rear panel of the front wheel wells covers the door hinge bolts so wait on that also until the doors are finalized.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  19. #299
    I modified the wheel well aluminum that goes behind the front wheels so they can be removed by dropping them down and then reinstalled by pushing them up from below. It didn't make sense to me that have to remove the windshield (or hard top in this case) to remove those pieces. Plus it blocked the fender to side sail attachment point and as Pete pointed out all the door hardware.

  20. #300
    that is an excellent idea
    Those pieces prevent access to doors also. I will modify them tonight
    I am installing as much as I can and then will send all the nose and hardtop pieces out for powdercoating to match the rest of the build.I already sent front end harness to iwire, he will provide new headlight connectors to old harness. He is also making me a harness for electric windows.
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  21. #301
    I like that airbox I saw yesterday on the forum. StaIMG_1145.JPGIMG_1144.JPGIMG_1145.JPGIMG_1146.JPGIMG_1147.JPGrted building my own
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  22. #302
    I was finally able to get a neighbor to help me move the hardtop from the car on to its top so I can fiberglass studs for attachment.
    I will take advice of AZPETE and finish the inside of it.

    I just received the backordered headliner material and I am trying to figure out how to attach that and the aluminum headliner sheet to the top.
    I had the fiberglass out to secure the studs and decided to fabricate an airbox for the intercooler.
    Trying a few variations , I will have to cut some of the aluminum from the original kit to make room. Some of the ducting aluminum gets in the way.
    I need to find out which direction the aluminum angle firewall faces. Again there is some of the side aluminum that needs to be cut to make room for that. I removed the seats so I have plenty of room to work.
    More pics Monday
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  23. #303
    working on the inside of the hardtop while it is still off the car. sanded the interior and filled in any imperfections with polyester resin and filler. I think I do not like sanding.
    I used Azpetes advice and epoxy'd studs to hard top. I also used existing holes for the second set of studs.IMG_1166.JPGIMG_1167.JPGIMG_1168.JPGIMG_1169.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  24. #304
    I continue working on the interior of the hardtop. The finish that came looks ok, there are a few places that were not perfect from the mold so I decided to refinish the entire underside. I sanded and used hi build primer. If I had more practice with this results would be better.
    I amusing filler to really try to make it smooth. working really carefully with fiberglass as you can lose yourself very quickly and go way to far. Metal is easier as you only get down to metal. Fiberglass you get down to nothing. I am testing various textured finishes for the inside. I think a truck bedliner will give it the look I am seeking.
    I received the Formacar aluminum pieces for the front. I like how they close off the interior and it provides mounting pads for any future installation I might want to do.
    The new nose is starting to trouble me with the lack of an install manual. the one I was provided by FFR really leaves me asking many questions. I did not weld the fender wing mounts. There is room for adjustment but bolted in you lose the adjustment.
    I will finish the hardtop install first then the new front . Looks like lots of trimming to do.IMG_1176.JPGIMG_1177.JPGIMG_1178.JPGIMG_1179.JPGIMG_1180.JPGIMG_1181.JPGIMG_1182.JPGIMG_1183.JPGIMG_1184.JPGIMG_1185.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  25. #305
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  26. #306
    Started putting power windows in the door frames. Lots of adjusting to further complicate the adjustment of doors. I am confused there is a locking mechanism on Driver side and they provide an interior mechanism to unlock the door.
    Is the passenger door always locked from entry outside? Anyone know?
    I forget whose method for putting on and adjusting the door on but it works really well for me. @ layers of corrugated taped to the jamb and bottom. Attach the door to the locking latch. Adjust the door to the desired position and tighten all the bolts. It worked for me initially. Gap was exactly how I wanted and the door worked very well. Updates coming.
    I finished texture painting the inside of the hardtop. I will secure the headliner and then secure on the car.IMG_1186.JPGIMG_1187.JPGIMG_1188.JPGIMG_1189.JPGIMG_1190.JPGIMG_1191.JPGIMG_1192.JPGIMG_1193.JPGIMG_1194.JPGIMG_1195.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  27. #307
    help arrived over the weekend so I was able to put the top back on the car. The studs to attach work well , I had to make the holes in the body frame larger to have some adjustment. The ffr trunk is to wide to use with hard top as you see inside the trunk. I will fabricate a smaller one.IMG_1205.JPGIMG_1206.JPGIMG_1207.JPGIMG_1208.JPGIMG_1209.JPGIMG_1210.JPGIMG_1211.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  28. #308
    Nice intercooler plenum. I've got to learn how to make fiberglass stuff. One reason is to extend my A pillars down like your newer/improved hard top.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  29. #309
    fiberglassed revised trunk
    I will hang the trunk from studs epoxy'd to the hard top
    Carpeted interior
    Bedliner on sides subject to elementsIMG_1221.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  30. #310
    Alan, how are you controlling the exhaust heat on the right side from making toast of your trunk? I'm thinking wrap and heat shield on mine, but open to ideas.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  31. #311
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,795
    Pete, I used a spaced thin aluminum heat shield between my exhaust and the trunk. I used that gold reflective heat tape as a radiant barrier and my trunk has no heat issues. Even a 1/2 inch air gap between the exhaust and the shield and another 1/2 between the shield and the trunk will work. Put the gold reflective tape on the hot side of the shield and the trunk
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  32. #312
    after the comment regarding heat, I covered the outside of the trunk with a reflective HVAC material. It has a little insulation and a foil outside. The trunk will be about 6 inches away from the exhaust. If I see any major heat there I will attach a metal heat shield. I carpeted the interior of the trunk and now just waiting for time to install it.
    I made a new version of the intercooler airbox. used foam board to build the model. Covered the model in duct tape ( epoxy resin does not stick to duct tape) used four layers of fiberglass cloth. The resulting box was exactly what I was looking for.
    I primed and painted the hardtop back wall. Really did not know what to expect with the window installation. I sprayed wd-40 along the channel and inserted the glass. I did not really like the tool so I tool a nylon mixing stick and ground it to a thin spatula shape. it took less than 5 minutes and the glass was installed. I was completely surprised, so much so that I spent 10 minutes trying to determine if I had did it correctly.
    IMG_1227.JPGIMG_1228.JPGIMG_1229.JPGIMG_1230.JPGIMG_1231.JPGIMG_1232.JPGIMG_1233.JPGIMG_1234.JPGIMG_1235.JPGIMG_1236.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  33. #313
    continues work on air box , using 2 inline marine vent fans to push air through intercooler. need to mount fans and wire them.
    Its hard to see the rear hinge as I paint everything black.
    If you paint it black it disappears
    IMG_1240.JPGIMG_1241.JPGIMG_1244.JPGIMG_1245.JPGIMG_1246.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  34. #314
    After further inspection it appears that while I had no problem putting the glass in the inside rear wall, the rubber gasket needs to have the lock seam pushed under. Guess its back to the drawing board. It was to easy, that's why I went back to it.
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  35. #315
    I finished the hardtop firewall. The locking rubber went in fairly easily with a few sprays of wd-40. The tool provided works very easily. I decided to use the trim provided and not cut around the small recesses. After a test fit it seals pretty well. I am leaving the headliner for last. Received the updated harness from I-wire so I can start to reassemble the car.IMG_1256.JPGIMG_1257.JPGIMG_1258.JPG
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  36. #316
    Quote Originally Posted by insurance guy View Post
    continues work on air box , using 2 inline marine vent fans to push air through intercooler. need to mount fans and wire them.
    Its hard to see the rear hinge as I paint everything black.
    If you paint it black it disappears
    IMG_1240.JPGIMG_1241.JPGIMG_1244.JPGIMG_1245.JPGIMG_1246.JPG
    I have just registered here, but I have been following your thread for quite awhile. I am a big fan of your build. That being said you may want to reconsider having fans push the air through. I don't know how efficient the roof scoop is at scavenging air, but it looks fairly effective and will create a ram-air effect...there will be higher pressure in your air box than underneath it...you will have plenty of airflow with your ducting. Pusher fans will just be an obstruction to the airflow and add unneeded weight and wiring. If you feel fans are needed, I would instead install them on the other side of the intercooler in a puller configuration. If I were you though, before I did either I would install IAT sensors on both inlet and outlet of the intercooler and log the difference to calculate efficiency. I believe you would find the installation of pusher fans inside your airbox to restrict airflow though....at least that will be the case assuming that the roof scoop scavenges a decent amount of air.

  37. #317
    If we are correct, the fans are for when you are in traffic and their may not be enough air flow. Would not the ECU account for high inlet temperatures? If you need a fan, is there any fans small enough to fit directly on the inter-cooler similar to a radiator fan? If you put the fans on the discharge side, using Wicked's idea, would it not also reduce the air flow?

  38. #318
    In traffic the intercooler is irrelevant since the turbo isn't compressing air, since that's where most of the heat comes from. Aside from heat caused by compressing air, the only other heat is radiant heat from the turbine side of the turbo. As for it being a restriction on the back side of the intercooler..it is indeed...but at least it's a restriction after the fresh air has had a chance to do it's heat exchanger duty.

  39. #319
    Thanks for the info
    I will hold off fitting fans but have the wiring their just in case.
    I received the updated harness from iwire and will work on getting that installed this week end
    Pics to follow
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  40. #320
    Quote Originally Posted by insurance guy View Post
    Thanks for the info
    I will hold off fitting fans but have the wiring their just in case.
    I received the updated harness from iwire and will work on getting that installed this week end
    Pics to follow
    There are other ways than fans to create velocity though. This method won't work for you with your intercooler where it is, but in theory it's worth trying:
    About 10 years ago I built a turbo dodge neon...fun little car, but I was having trouble with evacuating the crankcase. I didn't want to hook the PCV from the valve cover into the vacuum fitting for that purpose on the intake since that method tends to contaminate the inside of the intake manifold with oil. An old hot rodder friend of mine tipped me off to a solution...run the hose off the PCV valve an let it hang under the car. The dead air space underneath the car acts like a vacuum...drawing air through the hose. It worked like a charm...no oil in the intake and the crankcase was evacuated just fine. Maybe not the most enviromentlly friendly solution, but the principle is sound...use the vacuum under the car to draw air through the intercooler. To make use of that particular quirk though...you would have to duct the air leaving the backside of the intercooler under the car even with the bottom of the frame....not practical with your intercooler location, but worth remembering if you feel you need more efficiency. To be truthful, your ducting is excellent and I don't think you will have any heat soak issues at all.

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