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Thread: insurance guy 818

  1. #1

    insurance guy 818

    So the journey begins. Finally after a few delays Stewart Transport delivered my kit. It seems everyone has the same feelings watching the truck being unloaded. Neighbors come to the door and what is a quite street all of a sudden has crowds. Spent the next 4 hours checking each box. I need to do it again as many of the parts are unmarked. Have to find the part in the assembly manual to be sure it's the correct part. I am still waiting for the donor kit from Very Cool Parts, Wayne is making sure I get a good motor. I sent my deposit to iwire for a harness. No reason to rush, I think
    I have Plenty to do before I need the harness. I only had one item back ordered and unless I find the 2 items I think I missed, I did pretty good.

  2. #2
    Yup, Stewart is like Santa. Seeing it come off the truck is an image you'll treasure forever . . . well, until you have a roller . . and then when the engine starts . . and the gokart moves . .
    There are lots of memorable moments interspersed with hundreds of small victories. The frustrating points will fade. Enjoy the journey.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  3. #3
    Day 2, still trying to see what I received and if anything is missing. Great every piece has a number, this easy. Wait a minute things don't have numbers. What the heck is this?? I have no idea. Omg, how many pieces of aluminum, I better get organized, this can get crazy real quick. Where am I going to store all this?? I don't even have the donor yet. OK let's take the fiberglass pieces off and the aluminum pieces off.
    I am exhausted I just spent 45 minutes try to get this piece off the frame. I don't know how they wedged it iN.
    Maybe tomorrow will be a better day.IMG_1708.JPG

  4. #4
    LoL I think the exact same thoughts went through my head at that point. "What the heck does this bent piece of metal supposed to go to?!"

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Hey insurance guy.
    I've been working on this car off and on for over a year. Tonight I spent 3 hours on the car. 2 engine hatch pins installed, changed mind on tire sizes twice, and lost 6 tools.
    Double autocross this weekend. Life is good
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  6. #6
    IMG_1717.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    worked on firewall and it seems to be progressing nicely. I started looking ahead. I am looking at these upper ball joints. Can some one explain to me how I put this on the upper control Arm?
    I have been looking at this for 20 minutes
    Does it come Apart?
    I never installed a ball joint before, I cannot believe I am stuck the second day.

  8. #8
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    It threads into the upper control arm. The manual shows a picture of it I think. It doesn't come apart.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    It threads into the upper control arm. The manual shows a picture of it I think. It doesn't come apart.
    Can you look at the pi, this must be incorrect ball joint
    No way for that to screw inIMG_1720.JPG

  10. #10
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    That looks like mine. If I recall correctly, I took the blue rubber dust cover off, then screwed the balljoint into the upper housing shown in your pic. You can see the threads on the balljoint itself and the threads inside the housing. Once it's screwed in, you put the blue dust cover back on. Put some blue loctite on the threads of that before screwing in. I used a big plumbers wrench to grip and turn the balljoint in.

    See mine here:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post179718

  11. #11
    Thanks
    I thought the dust cover was sealed somehow.

  12. #12
    thanks so much
    I was able to get them off. Appreciate the assistance. Figure I will freeze the ball joint and heat the other piece.

  13. #13
    end of week one
    thanks for the helpIMG_1712.JPGIMG_1713.JPGIMG_1717.JPGIMG_1718.JPG

  14. #14
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I've upgraded your account so you can put pics in an album (1900x1900 / 2 mb max) and post images directly to your posts. You can also edit your profile and add a signature.

    Congrats on starting your 818!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  15. #15
    End of Week Two
    I put the ball joints in the freezer, heated the upper control arm for about five minutes with a heat gun. I made sure the ball joint grease fitting and the control arm fittings all pointed up. It was really easy, I heard it was difficult. The second one did not go so well. I probably did not heat it long enough. Three quarters of the way it stopped. I put it in a vise and omg, it took me about 3/4 of an hour to finally seat the ball joint. Success. Short Lived. When I attached the upper control arms I noticed that the weld was correct on the first one , not so the second. Was it upside down? I never checked. I had to remove the ball joint. If you think putting it on is difficult, try taking it off. I am no youngster, my arm strength is not what it used to be. one hour later dripping in sweat, I had removed the ball joint. It was fine, I was not. I spent the next day suffering from muscles that my body forgot it had.
    The second go around was a snap, control arm in correct position, ball joint frozen and heat the control arm for 7 minutes. It went right on ( I did burn myself)
    I primed and painted the front firewall , drilled all the holes and put it in place with clecos. I am waiting to paint the one piece that needs to be dimpled. My donor kit has not arrived yet so I have no donor parts. Word from Wayne tonight , the kit is packed and ready for shipment.
    I have a Eastwood powder coating gun and toaster oven. I am powder coating all the parts that fit in the oven. My powder coating technique gets better and better with each batch. Everything will be Black, satin finish if I can. The Floor I painted with the 3m rubberized undercoating. I like the finish ( hate the smell). I need to drill the holes and rivet it in place. Based on my history I will not rivet a piece in place until I am absolutely, 200% sure it is correctly where it goes and nothing goes behind it.
    Every piece of aluminum gets deburred, sanded with 500 grit, etch primer and satin finish paint. I purchased a few cans of Eastwood 2k paint, I will try that. I am waiting till I have a few pieces to paint as it has a shelf life.
    Great Kit so far, I read all the build threads. I will answer if I can provide value. All the builds look spectacular.IMG_1723.JPGIMG_1724.JPGIMG_1726.JPGIMG_1728.JPGIMG_1729.JPGIMG_1730.JPGIMG_1731.JPGIMG_1733.JPGIMG_1734.JPGIMG_1736.JPG

  16. #16
    Would anyone know the spec for the 10 inch bolt that spans the two rear control arms and where I can obtain it?
    It was frozen the hammer I was using was not looking and it crushed the threads. I did forgive the hammer for the error. I will need a replacement

    Wayne's donor kit came, he has it down to an art how he packs that crate. I am not used to parts with no northern salt corrosion and deterioration. PBblaster and an impact wrench makes the deconstruction easier than expected. I will post weekly pics and update tomorrow

  17. #17

    seat belt help

    would anyone have pics on installing wagon seat belts?

  18. #18
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I'm not much help since we installed harnesses, but here are a couple of threads that seemed like they might help:

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-anchor-points

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...hild-Seat-Mode
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  19. #19
    perfect
    exactly what I was seeking
    tried to find that in search

    thanks so much

  20. #20
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    You're welcome! Any updated pics of your build? How's it going?
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  21. #21
    I will update my thread with pics this weekend
    Not being a car guy this is quite a challange. I have to learn something as simple as putting a coilover shock together. Searching for the correct part is time consuming. I received extras on some parts and parts that are not even from my kit. Ffr has-been terrific in helping.
    Wayne from vcp is my Omg I need help guy. Glad he is a nice guy.
    My harness is out to Brian at iwire
    I was amazed that I was able to put motor and trans in by myself.
    Tons of pics this weekend
    Thanks

  22. #22
    I installed radiator
    Can someone please send me pics of lower radiator outlet with hose installed.
    I am not sure if there is clearance with steering boot and linkage.
    If I install hose
    It touches

  23. #23
    IMG_1942.JPG
    Pic attached

  24. #24
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    What is your serial #? You have to put about 1/2 to 3/4 spacers on the pins for the radiator to give yourself clearance
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  25. #25
    Number 343
    That would mean spacers on the top mount and longer button head screws. Currently using 3/4 inch.
    The top mounts would need to be removed as they barely fit now
    thamks

  26. #26
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    yes the top needs to be done differently too, I used 3/4 spacers and longer bolts. Craig (Mechie3) has some nice aluminum pieces for the radiator.

    The problem is that the interference was identified on the first kit! I have number 17... I expected such issues... but not fixing it for over 300 kits! UGH
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  27. #27
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by insurance guy View Post
    I installed radiator
    Can someone please send me pics of lower radiator outlet with hose installed.
    I am not sure if there is clearance with steering boot and linkage.
    If I install hose
    It touches
    Rori made some sweet spacers to raise the radiator so the hose clears the steering rack. They work great but I'm not sure if he's still selling them:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post148797

  28. #28
    The issues I am having with the assembly manual and updates are not deterring me from enjoying the build. I have experienced similar issues with an Electric Auto conversion kit and a cedar strip canoe kit. The techwriters seem to be way behind threads and fixes. Probably the best techwriter I ever saw was a fellow named Eric Kriss fellow not only produces the most beautiful builds his detailed assembly manual is unsurpassed.
    I will try to send more updates and photos.
    The build is going somewhat incident free as I jump from one part of the build to another. I found a company less than one mile from my office that powdercoats at a really low cost. I wish I found him before I finished the firewall. I also was lucky enough to find a Subaru Performance shop close by that will be able to help me with engine issues. I had him change all the wheel bearing from the donor.
    The biggest mistake I made was when I converted the transmission. I put the FFR plate on and forgot to use FFR bolts. You cannot use the old transmission end bolts, they are too long and will crack your transmission case. Luckily it was not too bad and JB WELD was the fix.
    I will attach over the next few posts all my current pics to get you up to date.
    and I am hoping to write a daily post.
    I attached the radiator the previous post shows that result. I am working on the seats. I am planning on removing the donor seat covers , having them cleaned and seeing if I can put them back together, The Ken Gilbert site gave me all the info I need to try and make that happen. Let the pictures beginIMG_1786.JPGIMG_1790.JPGIMG_1839.JPGIMG_1842.JPGIMG_1843.JPGIMG_1844.JPGIMG_1845.JPGIMG_1854.JPGIMG_1855.JPGIMG_1856.JPG

  29. #29
    These are the radiator mounts that I make if you can't get your OEM ones to workout after spacing the radiator upwards.

    http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/pr...ator-supports/

    --Craig
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  30. #30
    not all my pics are loading
    I think they are to large
    I disassembled the donor seats and attached them to the supplied ffr mounts. I cleaned the drivers seat
    not sure if I want to install them or beg my wife to let me purchase new seats. I had my eye on the Corbeau GTS need to see if they fit.
    IMG_1947.JPG

    I will try to upload balance of the pictures.

    I am having issues with the pedal. I think the ffr supplied back is bent incorrectly. It does not line up as manual notes, but I am just using the manual as a guide.
    IMG_1924.JPG
    here is the rest of the picsIMG_1905.JPGIMG_1900.JPGIMG_1901.JPGIMG_1902.JPGIMG_1903.JPGIMG_1904.JPGIMG_1905.JPGIMG_1873.JPGIMG_1874.JPG

  31. #31
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Trash their pedal bracket. I bolted the pedal directly to the firewall and added a 1x2 x 1/8 angle bracket to stiffen it. works great, many have done that to their cable operated 02-05 setup
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  32. #32
    Thanks
    Can you send a pic of your set up

  33. #33
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Here goes... put the pedal up vs the firewall so the cable hole lines up with the cable, I riveted the AL angle to the frame tube and drilled the holes for the pedal through it and the firewall and bolted it all together...

    P1120314.JPG P1120313.JPG

    Make sure that the pivot has a wee clearance from the angle so it doesn't rub/bind
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  34. #34
    thanks I will try that.

    I cleaned and managed to mock up the donor drivers seat. I will live with it right now. I will do the same for the passenger seat.
    I was able to find rubber bumpers to raise the radiator the 1/2 I needed to clear the steering link.
    fit terrific
    IMG_1949.JPGIMG_1950.JPGIMG_1951.JPGIMG_1952.JPGIMG_1953.JPGIMG_1954.JPGIMG_1955.JPGIMG_1956.JPG

  35. #35
    I was able to complete right side cooling pipes.
    I will leave it not attached to the frame until I get the brake lines installed.
    What I thought was going to be a snap turned out a frustrating hour as the clamps were interfering with the frame at the corner. Once I turned the clamps it became easy. The guide calls for the "thicker" small hose to be placed on pipe end. I was unable to get that one on and ended up using the thinner tube insert. It appears like it will be fine.
    I will find out when I fill with coolant.FullSizeRender (1).jpgFullSizeRender (2).jpgFullSizeRender (3).jpgFullSizeRender.jpg

  36. #36
    My frustration mounts each day. I am trying to put the cooling system in place. The thicker insert is supposed to go over waterpump outlet. I think it's impossible. did anyone get it on?
    How?
    Please

  37. #37
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I don't think we put any insert in. It shouldn't be needed, since you're using a Subaru hose that goes there. That's our memory of it at least!

    Your build looks like it is going great! Just be careful when you go to install your battery - if it touches the corrugated hoses it will blow holes in them... speaking from experience! We managed to do that while just wiggling the hoses around while trying to burp the system.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  38. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    I don't think we put any insert in. It shouldn't be needed, since you're using a Subaru hose that goes there. That's our memory of it at least!

    Your build looks like it is going great! Just be careful when you go to install your battery - if it touches the corrugated hoses it will blow holes in them... speaking from experience! We managed to do that while just wiggling the hoses around while trying to burp the system.
    Thanks very much
    I have plenty of experience with high voltage, I have done 2 all electric conversions. So much easier than this kit.
    Working on brake lines, purchase a roll if 9 Guage wire to make mock ups of bends. Coping them to actual brake lines is not as easy as I thought it would be. Can someone please let me know where I find instructions for running accellerator cable from firewall to rear. Or send pics.
    My tires hit firewall when I turn wheel to max. I see this is a common problem. Is there a fix?
    I don't just want to go forward and reverse.

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by insurance guy View Post
    My frustration mounts each day. I am trying to put the cooling system in place. The thicker insert is supposed to go over waterpump outlet. I think it's impossible. did anyone get it on?
    How?
    Please
    Dish soap & heat. Heat up the rubber insert then put a bit of Dawn (or whatever you have handy... or glycerin would work also I think) around the inside.

    I can confirm that the thinner inserts described in the assembly manual are not needed on latter chassis numbers; I'm pretty sure FFR changed the size of the tubing a while ago in the kit but didn't update the manual.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  40. #40
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by insurance guy View Post
    Can someone please let me know where I find instructions for running accellerator cable from firewall to rear. Or send pics.
    Here's my throttle cable routing. It comes through the front firewall through the pre-drilled hole then I routed it back through the front firewall and under the tunnel. Then it comes up over the gas tank and connects to the engine. I have a rear firewall b/w engine and gas tank that is not supplied by FFR. Make sure you drill the rear hole high enough so there isn't a large bend and enough cable length.
    throttle cable.jpg

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