insurance guy 818

[Tamra]

What size wheels and tires are you currently using? Rubbing has been a big problem for the 818 unless you use specific sizes. 215/40/17 is the tire size recommended by FFR, and it barely fits. The wheel width and offset also will impact it.

[insurance guy]

15.jpg18.jpg

What size wheels and tires are you currently using? Rubbing has been a big problem for the 818 unless you use specific sizes. 215/40/17 is the tire size recommended by FFR, and it barely fits. The wheel width and offset also will impact it.

the tires currently on the car are the donor's , I quite honestly don't even know. I have a set of the FFR rims , I know they are larger then current so I will have to deal with this issue.
here are the rubbing pics.

I spent the weekend working on the brake lines. Got them all completed and decided I did not like the way they looked so I ripped them out. I am practicing bending lines until I like my results.
I am really looking for perfection and that is impossible.
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[STiPWRD]

I'd suggest picking up some copper nickel brake line, it is a lot easier to work with, can be cut to length, won't rust and allows you to go with metric brake fittings instead of using those SAE to metric adapters. This will however require a brake flaring tool and metric brake fittings.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-325-3-16...101752&vxp=mtr
http://store.fedhillusa.com/22nutpack.aspx

[insurance guy]

I'd suggest picking up some copper nickel brake line, it is a lot easier to work with, can be cut to length, won't rust and allows you to go with metric brake fittings instead of using those SAE to metric adapters. This will however require a brake flaring tool and metric brake fittings.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-325-3-16...101752&vxp=mtr
http://store.fedhillusa.com/22nutpack.aspx

I started the front brake system and noticed a large gap under my master cylinder. I had to stop the brake lines and remove the master cylinder because I left off the cover plate. 2 steps forward , 1 1/2 steps back. need to powder coat it and reinstall master cylinder. Liked another posters idea of using 90 degree hose as rear transition for the cooling tubes. 730151.jpg730152.jpg730153.jpg730154.jpg730155.jpg

[insurance guy]

finished the cooling tubes, I like the way it looks with the 90 degree bend in the rear. I secured the front flex tubes to the frame away from potential contact with battery ( thanks Tamra). I completed the brake and clutch lines, but I am still not happy with the way the lines run and bend in the rear. I will be changing that. I attached the gas pedal direct to the front firewall using part of the supplied ffr brace . I tried to line it up as best I can with the predrilled hole. it is off and
will probably drill my own hole that lines up more centered with the pedal. Anyone feel that will be an issue?
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[insurance guy]

I purchased Marson RN-1 rivnut setter. It was less than $100.00 with different size mandrels. Having the ability to remove a piece and replace it seems to me a better option than the rivet.

[Hindsight]

Looking good. A good riv-nut tool is WELL worth the price. I've used mine a lot already and mostly for modifications on things I've added that didn't come with the kit.

[cmcintyre]

I'd suggest picking up some copper nickel brake line, it is a lot easier to work with, can be cut to length, won't rust and allows you to go with metric brake fittings instead of using those SAE to metric adapters. This will however require a brake flaring tool and metric brake fittings.

Just an aside. If you will be putting it on the road, you might check your state requirements on brake lines. Here in CT, they specify steel. I had started down the copper nickel route until advised otherwise. If you already checked your state out well, never mind and keep having fun with the build!

[insurance guy]

I am using the ffr lines
I believe they meet nj regs
I have been through the nj licensing on an electric conversion, it's the same process.
You need to make sure everything is secure and nothing hanging.
They are nuts for leaks and lights

[STiPWRD]

Just an aside. If you will be putting it on the road, you might check your state requirements on brake lines. Here in CT, they specify steel. I had started down the copper nickel route until advised otherwise. If you already checked your state out well, never mind and keep having fun with the build!

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I haven't seen any laws in VA on steel brake lines so I'm thinking I'll be OK.

[insurance guy]

throttle cable attached to pedal through front firewall. will hold off securing it until I have the firewall and wiring done. My harness is at I-wire, still about six weeks out.1.jpg2.jpg

[wallace18]

Looking good. You may want to check your clearance on the brake master cyl. top line. That area is crucial in the fitting of the windshield fiberglass cowl. In my experience this has to be just right for it to work. You may be OK but it is worth a check IMO. Keep up the good work!

[insurance guy]

Looking good. You may want to check your clearance on the brake master cyl. top line. That area is crucial in the fitting of the windshield fiberglass cowl. In my experience this has to be just right for it to work. You may be OK but it is worth a check IMO. Keep up the good work!

thanks
I will see what that clearance is.
I did not extend anything higher than the master cylinder cap.

[insurance guy]

finished the clutch lines
Does anyone know where to route the overflow from the radiator cap? There is another line on the other end of the radiator that I ran to the expansion tank on top of the engine. This looks like I can cap it off.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg

[wallace18]

finished the clutch lines
Does anyone know where to route the overflow from the radiator cap? There is another line on the other end of the radiator that I ran to the expansion tank on top of the engine. This looks like I can cap it off.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg

It originally went to the overflow tank. The tank on top of the engine is the degas tank. Make sure you did the VCP coolant mod. see threads.

[insurance guy]

It originally went to the overflow tank. The tank on top of the engine is the degas tank. Make sure you did the VCP coolant mod. see threads.

thanks
planning on doing the mod.
I already have one line from radiator to the degas tank, can I cap this one?

[insurance guy]

been working on fuel lines and finishing brake lines. I am stumped on how most of you were able to attach the proportion valve to the frame.
I was unable to maneuver under the frame so I just attached it to the side with a small bracket.
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[wallace18]

thanks
planning on doing the mod.
I already have one line from radiator to the degas tank, can I cap this one?

I capped the line on the passenger side of the radiator on mine. I then ran the VCP coolant mod hose to the degas tank.

[insurance guy]

I capped the line on the passenger side of the radiator on mine. I then ran the VCP coolant mod hose to the degas tank.

There are 2 overflow at radiator. What did you do with second one?

[insurance guy]

need as much help as there is to offer. I thought I was done with the brake and clutch lines until I pumped the system with air and put soapy water at each connections. Quite a bubble bath.
depressing to say the least. I guess I am not as good as flaring brake lines as I thought.
pulled off all the lines and will start from scratch. I guess I will try to make all bends and connections with as long of lines that I can fine with flared ends.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

need as much help as there is to offer. I thought I was done with the brake and clutch lines until I pumped the system with air and put soapy water at each connections. Quite a bubble bath.
depressing to say the least. I guess I am not as good as flaring brake lines as I thought.
pulled off all the lines and will start from scratch. I guess I will try to make all bends and connections with as long of lines that I can fine with flared ends.

I to went through the leaky brake line phase.
Tried 2 or 3 cheap flaring tools. Same results.
Bought an Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html

Two 818 with abs. About I'm 32 for 32 flares.
Bob

[insurance guy]

I to went through the leaky brake line phase.
Tried 2 or 3 cheap flaring tools. Same results.
Bought an Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html

Two 818 with abs. About I'm 32 for 32 flares.
Bob

thanks
I purchased the tool, I am hoping my wife does not read the forum. I thought I was the only one with leaky lines. I never see any of these issues on other build threads. I guess they only show the good. I like seeing the good and bad.

[RM1SepEx]

Read the old threads, almost everyone has a problem using the old style double bar flare tool, I wasted many pieces of brakeline... and with my early kit they didn't even send the correct lengths so that you had to cut them. I gave them a list of the exact lengths req. in September of 2013!

[insurance guy]

work continues while I await the new brake flaring tool from Eastwood. I got lucky as it went on sale right after I purchased it and they honored the sale price.
Fuel Filter and water overflow tank installed. Placing and trying to figure out shifter placement. I had all aluminum pieces powder coated so things are really tight and need to be filed to fit.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg

[insurance guy]

As I am awaiting replacement brake hardware to repair the errors I made, I was able to move ahead with a few other items. I installed degas tank and secured radiator. Ran fuel lines. Trying to get correct shifter location and install transmission tunnel. Looks like that needs to be adjusted with grinder.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg

[insurance guy]

finally I have some success
I used a electric shear and removed the bend on the transmission tunnel that was not allowing it to seat properly. I thought I would have to really hack it up.
secured shifter1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg

[Mechie3]

I needed to trim lots of things on my center tunnel sheet metal, mostly the little tabs that hang down.

[wleehendrick]

I needed to trim lots of things on my center tunnel sheet metal, mostly the little tabs that hang down.

Ditto! But I just ended cutting the top of mine off, since I have a k-tuned shifter and Lokar ebrake handle. I riveted the sides in, but the top pieces will be removable.

[insurance guy]

Ditto! But I just ended cutting the top of mine off, since I have a k-tuned shifter and Lokar ebrake handle. I riveted the sides in, but the top pieces will be removable.

did you rivet through the floor? I really hate to put more holes down there

[wleehendrick]

did you rivet through the floor? I really hate to put more holes down there

Yes, I did. I make a habit of putting a dab of silicone on each rivet, but I'm not too concerned about water intrusion, as my 818 will have no roof and be fair weather only (SoCal).

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Yes, I did. I make a habit of putting a dab of silicone on each rivet, but I'm not too concerned about water intrusion, as my 818 will have no roof and be fair weather only (SoCal).

Interesting,
Here in Ohio, during the spring and fall I expect to get caught out in the rain about once per week. I'm adding drain holes in the floor.
Bob

[flynntuna]

It never rains in Southern California :cool. Lol


http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrBT...iBoMgnRFtYbdc-

[matteo92065]

It never rains in Southern California :cool. Lol


http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrBT...iBoMgnRFtYbdc-

Where do you pull this stuff from? lol

[flynntuna]

I'm cursed with remembering insignificant trivia.

[insurance guy]

I'm cursed with remembering insignificant trivia.

MEANWHILE
the lack of water is causing the deep drilling of water wells causing the underground aquifer to collapse. Some places are sinking at 1 foot per year.

[wleehendrick]

It never rains in Southern California :cool. Lol

Well, let's hope the El Nino does come this winter... we need water!

I think I can get away with not weather-proofing my 818, as our rain patterns are pretty predictable. As long as the Quattro's not in the shop during rainy season, I'll be OK!

Anyway, sorry for the hi-jack, back to insurance guy's build...

[insurance guy]

Well, let's hope the El Nino does come this winter... we need water!

I think I can get away with not weather-proofing my 818, as our rain patterns are pretty predictable. As long as the Quattro's not in the shop during rainy season, I'll be OK!

Anyway, sorry for the hi-jack, back to insurance guy's build...

I am attaching transmission linkage, the shaft moves in and out I cannot seem to get it to rotate.
any thoughts?
I hope I am explain it correctly

[STiPWRD]

The shaft on the back of the trans should rotate freely but with some spring force to pull it back to middle position.
1. Did you try changing gears in the donor? Did it work then?
2. How are you moving the shaft? Using the FFR shifter and cables? Try rotating the shaft by putting a screw driver through the hole in the shaft and twisting it.

[Mechie3]

There's three in/out positions. In, nuetral, out. It can be difficult to pull it by hand and get it to the middle position as it likes to jump all the way in or out. It only rotates in the middle.

[insurance guy]

There's three in/out positions. In, nuetral, out. It can be difficult to pull it by hand and get it to the middle position as it likes to jump all the way in or out. It only rotates in the middle.

thats exactly what I needed to know. I purchased the engine and trans from Wayne at VCP. I had him change clutch for me, so I am confident he checked the working of the linkage.
I am able to move it in and out. I will work carefully and look for neutral.
Thanks guys