insurance guy 818

[insurance guy]

I attached cables to linkage and ran to rear of car. I was also able to grind/adjust firewall so it fits nice and tight.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg

[wleehendrick]

There's three in/out positions. In, nuetral, out. It can be difficult to pull it by hand and get it to the middle position as it likes to jump all the way in or out. It only rotates in the middle.

I bet that's the issue. I had trouble adjusting my shifter until I got the hang of pulling just hard enough on the shaft to hit neutral. But I got good enough at it to be able to move the car as a roller (with no bydraulics) with my wife steering, and popping it to neutral to push it around, and into gear to keep it from rolling over me!

[insurance guy]

I bet that's the issue. I had trouble adjusting my shifter until I got the hang of pulling just hard enough on the shaft to hit neutral. But I got good enough at it to be able to move the car as a roller (with no bydraulics) with my wife steering, and popping it to neutral to push it around, and into gear to keep it from rolling over me!

I was able to move it sideways, not much though. Adjusting this seems to be lots of work.
Anyone have any hints?

[insurance guy]

I was able to move it sideways, not much though. Adjusting this seems to be lots of work.
Anyone have any hints?

Somedays are just better than others. Attached linkage and was able to get in into all gears
No clutch
Needs some adjusting but it was a good session
Thanks all

[insurance guy]

I was able to install the transmission tunnel with minor grinding, same for the rear firewall. I am securing it with rivnuts to make it removable. I dont like the rivnut on the floor so I will be removing them and using flange bolts. The transmission linkage was one of the easier operations and I was able to get through all the gears. I will have some adjusting to do but it is nice to have some success. The cat assembly was a different story. the bolt pattern was off of the down tube connector and had to enlarge one of the holes. It fit fine after that. After securing the catalytic converter pipe it really appears to be at a strange orientation. The pictures in the "guide" appear different. I need to take off the rusted on old tailpipe before getting the ffr one on.
progress continues. I am looking for seats as I really hate to put the donor ones in. heavy, and the wrong color. Looking for options.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg

[insurance guy]

Can someone please post some pics how they attached accel cable to motor throttle mechanism
All I have is cable and recently received ball cable end
Thanks

[insurance guy]

I have begun work on the e brake. the set up ffr shows re2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg9.jpg10.jpg11.jpgally is difficult and I am having binding issues with the linkage. My first placement was to close to the linkage and was unable to engage brake. After second placement ( I hate unused holes ) I figured I needed to fabricate my own mount for the cables.
I will show completed pics ( if it works)

[insurance guy]

I spent the entire weekend dealing with the e brake. I followed the ffr manual and the connection was really hanging up on the cover that the e brake was attached to. If I moved the e brake all the way back as the manual suggests, there was not enough tension to have the brake engage. I wanted there to be all the adjustment for the brakes themselves. I fabricated a mount for the clip and now have to cut space for the ferrule connector not to hit the cover. I would like to see what everyone else did to compensate for the linkage hitting the cover. I searched the threa1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpgds and there really does not appear to be much. so I guess everyone had no issues.

[insurance guy]

I really am not sure why they don't tell you to attach the aluminum splash piece before you attach the brake lines. It would have been easier to rivet it in without the steering linkage and master cylinder in the way. After removing the brake line I secure the 2 splash plates. I was able to bleed the clutch and brakes. I have the Motive brake bleeder. It created quite a mess as the cap popped off the clutch reservoir at 12 pounds of pressure. Spent the better part of the day cleaning up the mess. when one thing goes wrong , I should expect a few more. After the clean up I was bleeding the brakes and of course I knocked over my brake fluid jar. More brake fluid all over the place. I surprised myself at how easy the bleeding is with the motive bleeder. ( if you don't spill it or make sure cap is secure)
I also was able to cut off the tailpipe from the cat and secured the ffr one.
My next big challenge is the wiring. I am on the iwire list.
1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg

[insurance guy]

Can someone post or sender pic of accelerator cable attached to motor throttle mechanism.
I cannot figure it out
Thank you

[NBinSD]

Here's my throttle cable connection

20150906_194735.jpg

[insurance guy]

Can you send a pic of ball stud connection please

[insurance guy]

mocked up all the aluminum so I can understand the placement and predrill all the location holes. I decided to mount all the body aluminum pieces with screws so I can remove them to get access is I ever needed it. I am running out of things to do while I wait for the harness from iwire.
I am trying to determine the way to attach the accelerator cable to the throttle plate, the stud ball connector received from ffr does not seem to fit.
I purchased sound deadening material and started placing it throughout the cockpit.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg9.jpg10.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

The barrel end fits into the throttle body end, ther ball end with plastic cup is for the throttle pedal end

[insurance guy]

so I just realized that you have a different accelerator cable than I have
FFR is not shipping one with a barrel end. ( at least I think not)
Mine has nothing on the end and they sent this ball stud connector and no directions
1.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

so I just realized that you have a different accelerator cable than I have
FFR is not shipping one with a barrel end. ( at least I think not)
Mine has nothing on the end and they sent this ball stud connector and no directions
1.jpg

That ball stud connector could be for the shifter cable.

[insurance guy]

nope
its for the barrel end ( no barrel)
I am awaiting a pic or response from vinny at ffr
no way this fits.
does anyone know if a barrel end can be put on the end of a cable ( easily)?

[RM1SepEx]

I've seen cables that have a ball and a barrel adapter, the ball nests in the barrel

[insurance guy]

I have attached the barrel adapter to the cable , now I have to find a way to attach the ball stud.1.jpg

[STiPWRD]

I have attached the barrel adapter to the cable , now I have to find a way to attach the ball stud.1.jpg

That's not the piece that goes on the throttle body end, I've never seen that piece before. It's supposed to look like this:
throttle end.jpg
The end of the throttle cable the goes to the pedal looks like this:
pedal end.jpg

[insurance guy]

My throttle cable came with the correct pedal end and nothing on the other end.
I have messages out to ffr awaiting their response.
thanks

[insurance guy]

I have reached a point where I cannot proceed until I do my wiring. I am scheduled to get My harness in the next week or so from iwire. I cannot wait. If you did not know it already the people at Factory Five are absolutely fantastic. Every issue that I have had they have addressed and resolved completely and quickly to my satisfaction. Rarely to you get such customer service from a company.
I will make a point to tell them and their bosses.
Very happy with factory five.
Vinny sent me the end of my accelerator cable I just spent 90 minutes trying to fish a dropped screw from the piece from the place that nothing reaches in the engine.
Finally getting it, I made sure to put a mat under my work site to prevent that from happening again.
Thanks again to the guys at ffr

[insurance guy]

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg6.jpg7.jpgthe project has stalled waiting for my wire harness from IWIRE. I might get the completed harness later this week. I am busy do all the little things. I drilled the hole for the VCP cooling fix. I have a tap but my handle is not long enough to reach the hole. One is in the mail. New tires arrived and I had them mounted on the FFR rims. Been putting sound deadening insulation throughout the chassis.

[insurance guy]

tapped the thread and installed the fitting. Attached the engine ground.
Received the iwire harness and new seats. Now I can get this to the gokart stage at last.
The engine has been sitting idle for 6 months. Any suggestions on any precautions to take before starting the motor??1.jpg2.jpg4.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg1.jpg

[Hindsight]

Make sure it has oil in it (fresh) obviously. Transmission too, of course. Fresh gas.

Remove all four spark plugs to reduce bearing load. Crank until you get oil pressure. If you don't have a gauge, you can buy a mechanical one for like $15 at a local parts store or Amazon. Uses a 1/8" NPT fitting that you should be able to screw into the OEM oil pressure sensor location.

[STiPWRD]

Make sure it has oil in it (fresh) obviously. Transmission too, of course. Fresh gas.

Remove all four spark plugs to reduce bearing load. Crank until you get oil pressure. If you don't have a gauge, you can buy a mechanical one for like $15 at a local parts store or Amazon. Uses a 1/8" NPT fitting that you should be able to screw into the OEM oil pressure sensor location.

What he said ^^^. If you don't want to buy a gauge, remove your spark plugs and remove the oil filter. Crank the engine over until you see oil coming out of the oil cooler (where oil filter would be). Put the oil filter back on and crank the engine over some more then install the spark plugs and start it up. This is the quick way but I'd suggest getting a real oil pressure gauge though.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

7.jpg

What hose are you using? I had problems finding clear hose for radiator stuff.
Bob

[insurance guy]

What hose are you using? I had problems finding clear hose for radiator stuff.
Bob

for some unknown reason I have surgical tubing that is the perfect size.
I am not sure if it will work but will give it a try.
Thanks for the Starting information

[Hindsight]

If the surgical tubing doesn't work, you can get clear silicone tubing on eBay by the foot. I have some on mine.

[insurance guy]

come home yesterday to boxes of long awaited parts.
My new Corbeau seats and my IWIRE harness.
I started right away with the wiring harness. I had purchased the donor from Wayne at VCP so I had no idea where any of the plugs came from. The harness is beautiful. I laid it out as per the instructions and I am amazed at how quick it was. I will take my time securing the harness but it is essentially done.
I am in need of some help from the forum.
I have no idea where these get connected to
this is under the dash
2.jpg
this is from the rear
16.jpg
then there is this yellow wire from the steering column
do I need this?6.jpg
I have these connections with no plugs.
I am assuming they will not be needed.
this is under the steering column
9.jpg
this is by the firewall brake pedal
17.jpg
helping me decipher what I am looking at is most appreciated.
If you are only thinking of getting an IWIRE harness,
it is worth every penny.
fantastic job

[STiPWRD]

Pic 1: OBD2 connector and reflash related connectors
Pic 2: rear O2 sensor
Pic 3: not sure but looks like airbag system related. Hard to tell from the photo but is the connector itself yellow?
Pic 4: not sure, probably plugs under the steering column for blinkers
Pic 5: brake pedal switch or clutch interlock switch

[Hindsight]

5 is the clutch pedal switch. There are two; one shows it up, one shows it down. I believe one is for interlock, as STiPWRD stated (starter interlock), the other is for cruise control.

4 Looks like the key antenna, maybe. Do the wires for it go to a small white thing on top of the key cylinder/?

[insurance guy]

thanks for help
started installing iwire harness
Brian has been helping me tweek the install
here is preliminary video of the layout. I will be redoing the wiring for permanent install.
https://youtu.be/D_KYXX2t0Vs
can someone please identify item on 1-10-5.jpg2 10-5.jpgtop of intercooler. where does this get attached to and where does the end of tube go?
the second pic
what is tube by blue tape?
thanks

[Hindsight]

The item on top of the intercooler looks like the boost control solenoid (can't say for sure because my 2007 looked different), but this is how they hook up:
http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/scooby/cobb1.jpg
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads...oid_system.jpg


The barb with the blue tape is just a vacuum barb. I believe originally it is used to supply vacuum to the brake booster. You can cap it off now, or use it for anything you need vacuum for. I'm using it on mine for my blow-off valve.

[insurance guy]

Perfect
With everyone's help, I have identified every part
First start is very close

[insurance guy]

I spent the weekend fabricating mount for the Corbeau seats that I purchased.
I am amazed at how little room there is to mount the seat. I fabricated the mount so I can easily remove from the bottom of the car.
The wiring computer from IWIRE fit perfectly in the space meant for the side seatbelt1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg9.jpg
All that is left is getting a battery and I will be ready for first start.

[insurance guy]

help needed
I finished my iwire harness installation
attached my battery
put in some gas and
nothing
I did hear the fuel pump cycle
I did have lights on my dash
but when I turned the key
nothing
I depressed clutch thinking that needs to be done
still nothing
I have voltage to starter motor
I am not a car guy and look to the forum for some guidance
any thought is most appreciated.

[RM1SepEx]

you have both clutch interlock plugs attached?

[insurance guy]

IT STARTED
thanks to everyone
I will post a first start video later
the problem was clutch switch
it was not being engaged mechanically.
I pushed it in and it STARTED
WOW

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first start!