insurance guy 818

[AZPete]

Here's my single wiper with the donor motor and donor arm. I don't have to cut my hood and this allows the remote reservoir and removing the windshield. Now you've got lots of choices so hopefully one works for you.
Wiper motor mounted.JPG

[insurance guy]

I cannot thank Brian from iwire enough. Not only is his harness beautiful, easy to install, his customer service is world class. He answers my emails in a timely manner and is always there to make sure I don't electrocute myself.
I just got done wiring a boat wiper motor, it worked perfect first time. I am having issues with my horn and he is sending me pics on possible solutions. Great guy and great craftsman.

[insurance guy]

Horn does not work, traced to what I believe is clock spring.
Anyone have any input on difficulty changing that? I am tempted just to run a small button for horn to pass inspection.

[Hindsight]

Super easy. Four thin but long screws. Remove the steering wheel and you'll be looking right at it. Black plastic roundish thing with four screws holding it to the whitexhaust plastic steering column lever assembly.

Before you do all that though, find the wire for the-brake horn that plugs into theach clock spring and jumper it to ground. If you don't hear your relay click and horn come on, it's not the clock spring. If you do, double check that your horn wire has a ground.

[insurance guy]

anybody have an inexpensive source for a clockspring.
They want 150.00 for that
cheaper to run a horn button

[wallace18]

anybody have an inexpensive source for a clockspring.
They want 150.00 for that
cheaper to run a horn button

I wired the horn relay to the washer button on the steering column stalk on all my 818 builds. It is a great place IMO if you are not using the washer function.

[Quiny]

I wired the horn relay to the washer button on the steering column stalk on all my 818 builds. It is a great place IMO if you are not using the washer function.

I did the same thing, except I used the rear washer button on the stalk. I am using the wiper and washer functions for the wipers. It is a great spot.

[Hindsight]

Can get them for under $100 on eBay, sometimes a little less. They are expensive because they do fail on their own, and I think you need one after your ABS goes off but I'm not 100% certain of that.

[NBinSD]

I've been looking at them on eBay too. I had planned to use my new Momo wheel with the bell works hub with a new clockspring but the washer button is an interesting idea and saves the cost of a clockspring (which my phone autocorrected to cockspur).

[insurance guy]

thanks for the idea, I need to speak to Iwire regarding the washer button as my wipers go on when I push the washer. I have been struggling with the doors. Wayne's thread and Tamra's thread proved very heIMG_0315.JPGlpful. I was not liking the way the door release was mounted. I added some support under it. It really secures the feel to it.
IMG_0315.JPG
IMG_0316.JPG
IMG_0317.JPG
IMG_0318.JPG

[insurance guy]

It gets comical, as I finish and solve an issue another one pops up. I went to install the side view mirrors and see that they do not fit. Anyone find any inexpensive aftermarket ones that fit?

[Hindsight]

These are the cheapest and I remember guys having them on lowriders and stuff in the 80's:
http://www.mooreparts.com/black-baby...left-or-right/

Google search this for several ideas: side mirrors 818 site:thefactoryfiveforum.com

I actually ordered a pair of mirrors off eBay today but they weren't that cheap. Cheaper than the $300-$500 ones I see a lot (like from APR etc): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-F1...JTGUvM&vxp=mtr

[AZPete]

Speedway, Hollywood mirrors
Front.jpg

[Aero STI]

Speedway, Hollywood mirrors
Front.jpg

I have these mirrors too. I think they look reasonably good.

[STiPWRD]

I actually ordered a pair of mirrors off eBay today but they weren't that cheap. Cheaper than the $300-$500 ones I see a lot (like from APR etc): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-F1...JTGUvM&vxp=mtr

That's what I'm using - carbon fiber APR GT3 $172 for the pair

[insurance guy]

After ruining 2 door liners I finally was able to complete both doors and be reasonably happy with the results. Mounting the completed doors was really easy if you follow Wayne's hints and Tamra's instructions. Gap is acceptable. I am now trying to get the front fenders back on and aligned. I suspect I will be doing lots of grinding and adding material as I already see alignment issues. IMG_0324.JPGIMG_0325.JPGIMG_0327.JPGIMG_0329.JPGIMG_0331.JPGIMG_0332.JPGIMG_0333.JPGIMG_0334.JPG

[insurance guy]

while I struggle with fenders and hood I began the trunk kit. IMG_0335.JPGIMG_0338.JPG

[flynntuna]

Thanks for that pic of the trunk. It actually looks like that there is decent trunk space in the 818.

[insurance guy]

I am so close to finishing then I put the next piece on and realize I have so much more to do.
I struggle with the fender and door. If I put the fender when it looks to line up I cannot open the door. It touch's on the bottom. If I move the fender forward or outward to leave clearance to open the door it extends to far forward and out. How is everyone handling this part? Are yours lining up?
Do I simply CUT the fender where the door hits? That is a lot of material. Any insgth or pictures is greatly appreciates.
My wife bought me a Quick Jack by Ranger for my birthday. OMG I wish I had this from the start. Spent yesterday just going up and down.fender door gap2.JPGfender door 3.JPGfender door gap.JPG

[Aero STI]

I brought my doors in closer to the hinges, probably by another inch compared to what you have, in order to have the doors open properly

[NBinSD]

I'm in the same spot. With the doors mounted and fenders lined up, the doors hit the fenders

Aero did you bring the fronts of the doors in by moving where the door skins mount on the door frame? I can't really see any other way to do it.

[insurance guy]

Can you send a pic with them opened and closed
Thanks

[insurance guy]

Actually I might be able to bring bottom in but lose alignment with line

[Hindsight]

Did you radius the bottom front of the door skin? I think there is a pic in Wayne's door fitting tips thread.

[insurance guy]

Yes
Followed Wayne's and tamra's install.
I will try moving door bottom in towards hinge, I think I have some play that way but the rear gap comes out.

[Aero STI]

The white is hard to photograph. Hopefully you can see the positioning.

[RM1SepEx]

I brought my doors in closer to the hinges, probably by another inch compared to what you have, in order to have the doors open properly

I had to move them in like that for the rear seam to align

[insurance guy]

AERO STI HAD IT RIGHT ON
I removed the and disassembled the door, took the 2 screws out attaching the fiberglass skin to the steel frame. I was only able to move it about 1/2 " but is was enough to allow have the clearance needed. Now I can open the door with out hitting fender and gaps and body lines are still nice. I still have to do the Drivers side but now at least I know how to resove issue.
Thanks to all who responded and visit this forum. revised fd1.JPGrevised fd2.JPGrevised fd3.JPGrevised fd4.JPG

[insurance guy]

I was able to install both fenders and the doors open without any interference. I now move on to try to install the hood and secure the fenders permanently. I will have to sand down the hood to get the gap and transition even and then play around with the corner transition of the hood fender and windshield. Each time I move forward I spend hours just looking at this trying to see how this is supposed to fit. Each built I see has a different take on it. I never have done body work or painting on a car so this is probably the one I will make all the mistakes on. While installing the trunk you have to attach it to the hump lid. It really make that lay perfect. If you have the trunk and need to take off the hump lid you have to unscrew the attachment screws. what a pain to just check oil. I will see if I can devise an easier method.IMG_0371.JPGIMG_0372.JPGIMG_0373.JPGIMG_0374.JPG

[idf]

52614[/ATTACH]IMG_0372.JPGIMG_0373.JPGIMG_0374.JPG

Check out Mike Everson's hump hinges/ trunk mounts.

[insurance guy]

Really?
You have location, I cannot find them

[Solidworks-Mike]

Really?
You have location, I cannot find them

http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

[insurance guy]

http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

I know about that part. The Factory Five Trunk Kit fits under the rear deck lid. It is secured to the Hump Lid. which means the Hump will not open unless you remove the screws securing the trunk.IMG_0338.JPG

[RM1SepEx]

I cut a small access door into the hump aluminum, also added a light. Now I don't have to remove the engine cover to check or add oil. I'm working on finishing the aluminum panels with vinyl. You can see how much a small led panel lights up inside the engine compartment by comparing the two photos of the open door. This also allowed me to screw the cover closed, no hinges, no exposed hood pins.

P1120966.JPG P1120967.JPG P1120968.JPG

[insurance guy]

i am going to steal your idea. Thanks

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I cut a small access door into the hump aluminum, also added a light. Now I don't have to remove the engine cover to check or add oil. I'm working on finishing the aluminum panels with vinyl. You can see how much a small led panel lights up inside the engine compartment by comparing the two photos of the open door. This also allowed me to screw the cover closed, no hinges, no exposed hood pins.

P1120966.JPG P1120967.JPG P1120968.JPG

Great Idea Dan.
Wish I could use it. We had our humps off 10 time this weekend to check to oil level between each track session.
The top of our non-adjustable seats are against the roll bar blocking access. We are thinking of using the gas cap as a dip stick access.
Bob
seat.jpg

[idf]

I know about that part. The Factory Five Trunk Kit fits under the rear deck lid. It is secured to the Hump Lid. which means the Hump will not open unless you remove the screws securing the trunk.IMG_0338.JPG

With the part above the trunk mounts to the hinge bracket, not the hump lid. The hump lid opens fine with the trunk in place.

[RM1SepEx]

Great Idea Dan.
Wish I could use it. We had our humps off 10 time this weekend to check to oil level between each track session.
The top of our non-adjustable seats are against the roll bar blocking access. We are thinking of using the gas cap as a dip stick access.
Bob
seat.jpg

My seats hinge, I want to relocate my harness bar to the rear of the roll cage where it is stronger and since I'm vertically challenged (unlike you two!) I need to lower it too. FFR should fill in that corner and put 3 sets of mounting holes at different levels.

Bob, make a removable access panel on the side of the hump? I refuse to haul that engine cover off every time I want to check the oil. I screwed mine down so it isn't easy, it's marginally a 1 person job.

[insurance guy]

thanks for all the help the wiper is installed and it was much easier than I thought. I went with a single marine wiper. The blade will be removed after the NJ inspection as I doubt I would be driving the car in a rainstorm.
I will prop up the hood to give clearance for the wiper arm as I will not be cutting the hood. I need to trim the hood and finalize the front end.
The "todo list" is less than 10 items for completion.IMG_0387.JPGIMG_0388.JPGIMG_0389.JPGIMG_0390.JPG

[insurance guy]

I am looking for a part number and source for the clockspring. Really would like aftermarket one. they are expensive. Need horn to work for NJ inspection. My donor is a 03 wrx