Fiberglass Vinyl Seats compared to New Leather Seats?

[bucketlist]

hello, looking to upgrade for comfort and looks, i have mark III Fiberglass Vinyl Buckets Seats (2004) has anyone changed to the new Leather Metal Frame FFR seats? are they more comfortable? thanks

[FFR 3099]

I changed to the new steel frame seats about 3 years ago but I didn't get leather covers. I like the seats better as they are stronger and easy to mount into my Mk 2. I think they are a little snugger fit when I sit in them but it is OK ,as I am not a real big guy @ 165-170 pounds. I think the lower cushion foam a a little denser material, it seems firmer. I would do the upgrade again, no second thoughts.

[bucketlist]

thanks for the response, i placed the order,

[bucketlist]

got the leather seats to replace the fiberglass mark III versions, nice seats,
but need all new mounting hardware, since the pass seat bolted to floor all the bolts, (fiberglass seat approx. 3/16" thick) (steel frame seats 9/16"thick) are too short and the mounting holes themselves are wherever you can drill without hitting something underneath the car. there are 4 square tubes on the metal frame seats so there is less freedom to drill mounting holes without hitting something underneath the floor,
which is tough with the frame tubes under a portion of the seat, the drivers seat track studs are to short, need to drill, punch out then replace with longer, again having to drill new mounting holes in floor!

a suggestion to the seat manufacturer (or FFR), if there where mounting plates (1/8" or 3/16") thick in the 4 corners of the seats would not have had to get longer studs or mounting bolts and would be able to use previous floor mounting holes!

for a new build not much of problem, but for a upgrade pita!

[dagall]

got the leather seats to replace the fiberglass mark III versions, nice seats,
but need all new mounting hardware, since the pass seat bolted to floor all the bolts, (fiberglass seat approx. 3/16" thick) (steel frame seats 9/16"thick) are too short and the mounting holes themselves are wherever you can drill without hitting something underneath the car. there are 4 square tubes on the metal frame seats so there is less freedom to drill mounting holes without hitting something underneath the floor,
which is tough with the frame tubes under a portion of the seat, the drivers seat track studs are to short, need to drill, punch out then replace with longer, again having to drill new mounting holes in floor!

a suggestion to the seat manufacturer (or FFR), if there where mounting plates (1/8" or 3/16") thick in the 4 corners of the seats would not have had to get longer studs or mounting bolts and would be able to use previous floor mounting holes!

for a new build not much of problem, but for a upgrade pita!

Get the Breeze mounting plates. Sets them at the right angle and make them very comfortable. I have them in my roadster and my 33. They are two piece steel plates. The bottom can be bolted through the floor to the steel cross beams wherever you need. I differed from the instructions and driledl through the seat to the top plate and used rivnuts and grade 8 bolts. This allowed me to mount the bottom plate, mount the top plate and then bolt the seat to the top plate.