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Thread: NoVa 818 Build

  1. #1
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    NoVa 818 Build

    Sold the donor last week so I figured I should finally get my build thread started. In the short time I've been reading this forum, I've already learned quite a bit and I hope I can contribute something myself. Much thanks to all of the pioneer builders!

    IMAG0163.jpg

    About me: I visited Factory 5 in 2011 and originally had my eye on the GTM but after following the development of the 818 I knew it was going to be perfect for me. This will be my first kit car build but I've been working on my wrx for the past 11 years so I'm familiar with the car. I'm 28 and have a mechanical engineering background. No kids yet so I wanted to get this done while I still had more free time - they say you only YOLO once.

    Delivery date: March 29, 2014, I'll be building the S.

    Plan:
    I'm still in the process of cleaning up some of the donor parts but here are the major items:
    New Sti EJ257 short block with JE pistons
    02 WRX heads rebuilt with Crower 264 cams, Crower springs, titanium retainers, Ferrea valves, Sti shimless buckets, polished ports
    Blouch 2.5R turbo, Megan headers
    824cc modded wrx injectors with Boomba fuel rails and 255LPH fuel pump
    TurboXS UTEC
    PPG gearset (straight 1st and 2nd, helical 3rd and 4th), lightweight flyweel, still need to buy clutch
    JDM V7 Brembo calipers and rotors with matching spindles
    DR-31s 17x8 front, 18x9 rear with BFGoodrich g-force KDW tires 225/45/17 front, 255/35/18 rear

    Goals:
    Driving go-cart by summer
    Have a summer fun car to occasionally drive to work
    Spend some time at the track and autoX (I'm kind of a noob at tracking so hoping to learn much here)

    -Slava
    (btw NoVa is short for northern Virginia)

  2. #2
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Welcome... that should be a monster!

    BTW, your chosen front tire size has a 25" overall diameter. If you haven't noticed in other threads, this has been found to cause rubbing. Ideally, you want to front tire to be around 24", this does limit tire selection in sizes wider than 215mm.

  3. #3
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    good catch! meant to write 225/40/17 instead of 225/45/17. As u mentioned, depending on availability, I might even have to go with 215/40/17

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    Privet,

    Should be a great build. Subscribed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    (btw NoVa is short for northern Virginia)
    Glad you cleared that up! Even though I don't speak Spanish I read it as "Doesn't Go!"
    FFR4958. IRS, 408W, Loud and fast!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    The Virgin Doesn't Go build. Looking forward to it.

  7. #7
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Looks like you'll be leading the area in 818 builds. I have a time vampire that will be anchoring my progress.

    Lusting after the heads on your motor. Should make some really nice power.

  8. #8
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    The Virgin Doesn't Go build. Looking forward to it.
    lol, hey Rasmus, actually I'll be trying to replicate ur steering rack mods using my shiny new harbor freight welder, great pics btw

  9. #9
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Looks like you'll be leading the area in 818 builds. I have a time vampire that will be anchoring my progress.

    Lusting after the heads on your motor. Should make some really nice power.
    Congrats on the new time vampire! I hope I can fit in as much time on the car as possible but when spring hits, I'm gonna have my own yard work vampire

  10. #10
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    Subscribed. Looks like it'll be a good build. Will you be running at Summit Point eventually?

  11. #11
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    lol, hey Rasmus, actually I'll be trying to replicate ur steering rack mods using my shiny new harbor freight welder, great pics btw
    Thanks man. I always liked build threads when there was a bunch of pictures. Pictures are way better than a line of text that read "Buttoned up steering rack and converted to manual". Plus when I do something wrong or backward the internet is more than willing to point it out.

    The key to good welds:
    1. gun time
    2. good ground
    3. clean, clean, clean, & finally
    4. clean

  12. #12
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Art of Boxer View Post
    Subscribed. Looks like it'll be a good build. Will you be running at Summit Point eventually?
    Most definitely, that is the goal. It's only 40 miles from my house.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    The key to good welds:
    1. gun time
    2. good ground
    3. clean, clean, clean, & finally
    4. clean
    I saw ur post from earlier today about the steering rack housing being aluminum. For some reason I thought it was steel - kind of a bummer since I just have a cheap flux core welder (probably gonna invest in a miller multimatic 200 in the future, just not quite yet). I'll probably have to settle for some NPT threaded blanks to plug up the holes. But I should be able to weld up the quill.

  13. #13
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Not very exciting, but here's a pic of my cluster on its way to 1,000,000 miles. I've got it hooked up to a pulse generator that's mimicking the speedo signal and tricking the cluster into logging mileage. The hope is that once it hits a million miles, it will reset back to zero and not turn into an expensive paper weight. I could probably squeeze out a faster rate out of the signal generator but the one I'm using is old and doesn't have as much adjustability.
    IMAG0168.jpg
    I started at 66k miles and 4 days later, I'm at 120k (logs about 9.5 miles per minute). The odometer reset thread was a big help:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...odometer+reset

    I know what the problem is, I'm out of gas!
    IMAG0169.jpg

    As mentioned in the thread above, if you want your new kit car to have zero mileage on the cluster you have several options:
    1. Run a speedo signal with a pulse generator (this is what I'm doing since it is free - I'm borrowing the pulse gen)
    2. Send your cluster to a company that will reset it for you (price varies but typically $140+)
    3. If you have a wrx cluster you can reflash your own chip with free software (PonyProg2000) using this approach:
    http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105...pped-dash.html
    Note: (I don't think my sti cluster uses the typical 8 pin DIP found in wrx clusters, I think it uses surface mount quad flat pack chip that is more difficult to remove and reprogram)

  14. #14
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    3. If you have a wrx cluster you can reflash your own chip with free software (PonyProg2000) using this approach:
    http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105...pped-dash.html
    Note: (I don't think my sti cluster uses the typical 8 pin DIP found in wrx clusters, I think it uses surface mount quad flat pack chip that is more difficult to remove and reprogram)
    Thanks for that link. It might come in handy if it doesn't roll over. Mine should be done on March 11th.

    Larry

  15. #15
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    I'll probably have to settle for some NPT threaded blanks to plug up the holes. But I should be able to weld up the quill.
    Yep you'll be able to do the quill easy.

    On the half steering rack case half that's aluminum you can just fill those holes with JB Weld rather than having to source NPT bungs. Saves a buck and the JB, when cured, almost matches the cast aluminum.

  16. #16
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post

    As mentioned in the thread above, if you want your new kit car to have zero mileage on the cluster you have several options:
    1. Run a speedo signal with a pulse generator (this is what I'm doing since it is free - I'm borrowing the pulse gen)
    2. Send your cluster to a company that will reset it for you (price varies but typically $140+)
    3. If you have a wrx cluster you can reflash your own chip with free software (PonyProg2000) using this approach:
    http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105...pped-dash.html
    Note: (I don't think my sti cluster uses the typical 8 pin DIP found in wrx clusters, I think it uses surface mount quad flat pack chip that is more difficult to remove and reprogram)
    Option 1 didn't work on my '05. stopped at 999999.

    Larry

  17. #17
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    Option 1 didn't work on my '05. stopped at 999999.

    Larry
    Bummer I'll either leave it at 500k or look into a reflash.

    Quick update - I'm less than 3 weeks away from picking up my 818S and have been cleaning a few parts. My trans exterior was in rough shape so I tried to refurbish it. After pressure washing and hitting it with WD40 foaming degreaser while scrubbing it with a wire brush, this is the best I was able to do.
    IMAG0191.jpg
    Which is just not gonna cut it. So I think I'm just going to paint it and call it a day. I wasn't planning to do this originally but the years of oxidation have taken a toll and there are just too many crevices to try and get to with a wire brush. The next time there is a warm day, this thing will see some aluminum primer and probably VHT paint.

    I also replaced the seals and Andrewtech replaced the bearings on my input shaft. Here's a shot of the PPGs, can't wait to hear these again!
    IMAG0201.jpg

  18. #18
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    How difficult was it to set the input shaft, output shaft, and shifter forks into the transmission case? I could fit a case half into my blasting cabinet and hit it with baking soda to clean the exterior. Woundn't want to do that with the gears still in it. Plus I need to swap in a LSD and put a speedo gear in.

  19. #19
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    How difficult was it to set the input shaft, output shaft, and shifter forks into the transmission case? I could fit a case half into my blasting cabinet and hit it with baking soda to clean the exterior. Woundn't want to do that with the gears still in it. Plus I need to swap in a LSD and put a speedo gear in.
    It was surprisingly simple. This was my first time working on the trans so I was intimidated at first but with some research and tips from Andrewtech (local shop) it went well.
    1. There are a few pins and bearing races that may fall out when handling/cleaning the case halves but it isn't difficult to figure out where they go back. The pins are used to lock the position of 2 bearings (one on the input shaft and one on the lower pinion shaft). There are small holes on the bearings that must be aligned with the pins. The case halves won't seal if these pins and bearing holes are not aligned.
    2. The gear selectors on the two shafts must drop into the shift forks, but that is also intuitive.
    3. There is a C clip on the rear of the input shaft that must point down towards the lower pinion shaft (just inside the transfer case portion).
    4. There is a small tab on the very end of the input shaft that has to be rotated to drop into it's shift fork (I think it is used for tripping the reverse lock out).
    5. Make sure to test fit the two case halves together BEFORE siliconing them. There are 4 bolts and metal gasket that bolt a bracket on the lower pinion shaft to the each case half. This bolt pattern must align to fit. If the case halves are already sealed the bracket cannot be rotated. Do at test fit FIRST.
    6. Before sealing the 2 case halves, make sure that the gears align on top of each other! if they are mis-aligned, you may have premature failure. Try taking everything out and putting it back in to see if that works. MAKE SURE THAT THE INSIDE IS AS CLEAN and all old silicone has been cleaned out!
    7. I also had a hard time fitting the transfer case back on. Make sure to practice a few times BEFORE you try to put silicone and get it to fit. One tip from Andrewtech as to put the trans in 4th.

    Also, the gasket reseal kit I got (32001AA160) came with way more gaskets than I needed. I believe they do this to cover a range of model years. Best advice is to knock out the old seals and match them up to new ones that are in the kit. The trans axle diff seals can be knocked out with a large socket. The selector shaft seal can be pried with a screw driver from the inside and the input shaft seal simply slides off. When pressing new seals in, push only on the outer perimeter and not the inner rubber portion, a socket and rubber hammer usually work tine. The speedo seal rarely ever goes bad, but is also included in the re-seal kit.

    Here's a helpful link to research:
    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...l-replacement/

  20. #20
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Those tips were more detailed than I could have hoped for. Thank you for taking the time to thoroughly explain it. I feel confidant I can easily swap in a speedo gear and replace the differential in my own box, now.
    Last edited by Rasmus; 03-11-2014 at 03:13 PM. Reason: engrish be reels hard, yo

  21. #21
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    Those tips were most detailed than I could have hoped for. Thank you for taking the time to thoroughly explain it. I feel confidant I can easily swap in a speedo gear and replace the differential in my own box, now.
    You got it man, that's the least I can do for learning so much from you and many other on this forum. The info here is a true asset.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Wow! That description helps me a ton. Holy crap. Thank you so much! I get more and more inspired by the day to crack open my trans.

  23. #23
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    Wow! That description helps me a ton. Holy crap. Thank you so much! I get more and more inspired by the day to crack open my trans.
    No problem, glad I can help!

  24. #24
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Work has been crazy busy lately so haven't had much time to update the build thread, or troll the forum for that matter, but I finally picked up my 818S this past weekend!

    Chassis number 150
    IMAG0240.jpg

    All tucked away in the trailer (fits quite nicely in the Uhaul 12' x 6' trailer for about $35 a day). There was about 2" of clearance on either side and about a foot front and back.
    IMAG0248.jpg

    I also got to sit in the show room 818S, which was awesome! The candy red paint job is unbelievable in person and the seating is very low and the suspension felt nice and stiff. Also, I had plenty of leg room inside, although Tony mentioned that this show room model did have the thinner gas tank (probably Boyd). Tony was great too, we chatted a bit. The soft top also looked nice and quality made but expensive.
    6.JPG

    Finally back in the garage test fitting the seats with my attack dog. With my fixed back Momo seats, I felt like there is still adequate leg room even with the current rear wall in place and I'm 6'2" 180 lbs. I think it's because the seat backs are so much thinner than stock seats. However, we'll see how I feel once the pedals and steering wheel are actually mounted. Also, in the picture, I hadn't taken off the momo seat brackets, which definitely raised the height, so those will be removed.
    IMAG0252.jpg

    Gotta still inventory my boxes and start drilling holes in the panels. I'll be powder coating those. Back ordered parts were the head lights, gas tank, the one box of aluminum panels, the #350 springs, and a few other minor things.

    Overall impressions are that the kit is very nice and I'm happy with the powder coat job on the chassis. Can't believe I finally own a kit car! Also, we hit a bunch of rain on the ride home and everything held up pretty good. The only places where I saw the first hints of rust starting to form were on the windsheild frame and the bare steel where the chassis number is stamped. I will paint the windsheild frame and probably clear coat the chassis number.

  25. #25
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Congrats on picking up your kit! Let the fun begin.

  26. #26
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Last weekend I buttoned up the trans with the new FFR 2WD conversion parts and (since it's finally warm) was able to paint it with some VHT silver. For some reason, after doing an inventory of all the parts and going through all the boxes, I was most excited about getting the 2WD piece and the trans block off plate (maybe cuz they allowed me to finish the trans)... also excited about getting those FFR key chains
    IMAG0283.jpg

    Dropped off a bunch of the steel brackets, door frames, and firewall aluminum panels at the powder coater on Monday so hopefully they'll be ready by Friday the 18th. Meanwhile, yesterday I started refurbishing by steering rack and got it about half way broken down. Still have to figure out how to get the rack out of its housing and get the pinion gear out of its housing so I'll be catching up on some of the earlier threads. But all in all, not the rustiest rack on this forum.
    IMAG0287.jpg

    Also decided I'm going to repaint my calipers and probably replace the bearings in my JDM spindles (3 out of 4 don't rotate freely). I've already done some searching for the bearings and seals and will post the parts list later. I may also BOD the bearings (maybe, maybe not) and give them the POR15 treatment. Keeping the stock lug threads for now.
    IMAG0284.jpgIMAG0285.jpg

  27. #27
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    One other thing I did yesterday was repaint the steel brackets on the wind shield surround because they were showing signs of rust (it rained a lot on my drive home from FFR).
    IMAG0288.jpg

    Other than the wheel bearings, I really have my eye on Mike Everson's coolant piping (but $550 is kinda pricy). Will probably get the alternator bracket and clutch line though from replicaparts.com. And I haven't decided on if I want to get the Boyd tank yet, that's another big purchase. Can't wait to get the steering wheel and pedals installed. BTW, I bought a 12" momo steering wheel but it's still in the mail (should help increase knee space and give a better steering feel). For now, my legs are jello from the half marathon I ran this morning, so taking it easy today. Cheers

  28. #28
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    New 320mm steering wheel came in yesterday and it's just what I was hoping for - I got it to match my seats. This came off of a porsche so I may have to mod it to fit my column.
    IMAG0307.jpg
    IMAG0308.jpg

  29. #29
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Thought I'd post my monthly update... yes yes, I know I've been neglecting you build thread.

    Most of the front suspension and some of the rear suspension is in place and I've riveted the firewall and most of the interior aluminum panels. Drilling the holes in the control arms was sort of a pain - 3 of the 4 holes went fine but I broke off a drill bit in one of the holes and it took me a while to get it out. Next thing on the to-do list is replace wheel bearings so I can hang the spindles.
    ZOE_0004.jpg

    Also, a bunch of back ordered parts including the box of aluminum came in a week or two ago. The dead pedal aluminum in the manual shows a single piece but I'm assuming these two pieces are the replacement?
    ZOE_0003.jpgZOE_0002.jpg

    I'm still missing the following items

    80038 Headlight set
    33058 Hot Rod Fuel Tank
    80277 Fuel level sender connector
    80278 Fuel pump connector
    33363 Exhaust clamp

    I know some guys recently got the fuel tank but I haven't gotten any shipping notifications. Could it be that I might be getting the new modified one? Fingers crossed.

    Progress is slow since I'm also renovating the kitchen and putting in hard wood on the first floor but I try to sneak away to bolt things onto the 818. It's very satisfying to see the shrinking pile of bolts.

  30. #30
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    awesome progress man! Still trying to find a day to come out and check it out if it ever stops raining here in NOVA!

  31. #31
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Italian333 View Post
    awesome progress man! Still trying to find a day to come out and check it out if it ever stops raining here in NOVA!
    Sure, come up anytime

  32. #32
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Looking good. Front firewall and interior panels powdercoated? I'm hoping to get mine to powder this weekend. The finish on yours looks good, not too glossy and not too dull.

  33. #33
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Yep, the front firewall is powder coated jet black and came out real nice, it feels plenty durable although in the photo you can see a bunch of my fingerprints after the siliconing so it should clean up nice. I just painted the interior aluminum panels with rustolium aluminum primer and black paint since they will be better protected and since I wanted to get that first batch of parts to the powder coater. I'll probably make another powder coat run on some of the body finish parts later.

  34. #34
    Senior Member Buzz Skyline's Avatar
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    Dang it. I just gave away a signal generator just like that. I figured I wouldn't be doing much electronics work for the foreseeable future. I suppose I could rig one up with a 555 timer chip from Radio Shack. I'll check out the reset thread first though.

  35. #35
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Turns out the signal generator can run up the mileage but the cluster doesn't reset back to zero (it stays at 999999). Larry (K3LAG) lives very close to you and sells reprogrammed eeprom chips with zero miles ($30) that can be installed in the wrx clusters. I have an sti cluster so will most likely have to send it to a specialty shop to have them reset it to zero miles.

  36. #36
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    How's the car coming?

  37. #37
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    How's the car coming?
    Looks like you're coming along nicely! Progress has been slow lately due to work being very busy the past few months and the kitchen renovations we're doing - I pretty much haven't had a chance to touch the 818 for a month and a half and it's killing me . But I just finally got back at it and finished rebuilding the spindles with new bearings and am about to put those on. Then I have to finish repainting the brakes, hang pedals, steering wheel and mount the seats to figure out if I want to keep the stock gas tank. Those are the near term plans, it just feels like I never have enough time! On the plus side, my last back ordered part (headlights) finally came in last week - not bad it only took 4 months after I picked up the kit.

  38. #38
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Got a bit of work done over the weekend - the rear suspension took more effort than I thought but went together eventually. I got the adjustable trailing arms and lateral links off ebay that I've seen other use and matched up the rear lower trailing arm length to stock length (20.25" bolt hole to bold hole) but I didn't have the stock lateral links so I used 16.5" (hole to hole) for those, does that sound about right? I can always adjust later. By the way, I bought an extra set of new brake shoes for the rear e-brake (I thought it came with 2 shoes but each box contains all 4 shoes). So let me know if someone wants some brand new e-brake shoes (Subaru PN 26298PA080).

    IMAG0596.jpg

    I also mocked up the steering wheel with Rori's spacer using LongIsland's post as a guide, which was very helpful and took all of 5 minutes to shorten the steering column:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post150494

    I'm also gonna use his shifter lowering standoff idea but with aluminum spacers instead of nylon.

    IMAG0597.jpg

    I also installed the pedals and I can definitely see why people have complained about the master brake cylinder bolts. The spacing is just not adequate so I had to shave off a little bit of material from the master cylinder flange to make it work.

    IMAG0598.jpg

    Also, it looks like I'll be purchasing a Boyd tank. I tried every trick I could to recover leg room and make the FFR tank work such as using thin momo seats, a smaller 320mm steering wheel, and steering wheel spacer but in the end, it was just not enough to give me adequate leg room (I'm 6'2" 180 lbs for reference). As soon as I moved the seat back those magical 2 inches and sat back in the car, it instantly felt perfect and reminded me of sitting in the red 818 at FFR.

    I have 2 questions:

    1. Will an 02 wrx fuel sender work with the Boyd tank? I'll have to research the Boyd tank thread but wanted to see if I could get a quick answer. I know they offer a 90 ohm sender for $48 and that the wrx sender is more like 16-158 ohms. Is is possible to fix the Boyd sender with a few resistors?

    2. Does anyone know where I can get some reasonably priced 5X100 rotors that will work with Brembo calipers? I bought JDM v7 sti calipers, rotors, and spindles and the rotors will not have enough material left. Replacement rotors from Subaru are very expensive. Another option I'm considering is buying a set of USDM sti rotors and drilling a 5X100 bolt pattern offset from the 5X114 pattern. I measured the following ODs from the rotors I have: Front 12.8" (325 mm), Rear 12.44" (316 mm). Mikeb75 mentioned he found some 12.7" rotors on Summit Racing - these might just work.

  39. #39
    Senior Member
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    May 2012
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    1. The OEM sending unit setup uses two variable resistors in series. My opinion: buy the Boyd sending unit and follow the directions posted by AZPete (I think).

    2. Buy '04 STi rotors from Rockauto.com. You can get Centric blanks for $34.89 each.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  40. #40
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Leesburg, VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    1. The OEM sending unit setup uses two variable resistors in series. My opinion: buy the Boyd sending unit and follow the directions posted by AZPete (I think).

    2. Buy '04 STi rotors from Rockauto.com. You can get Centric blanks for $34.89 each.
    Thanks, sounds like a plan. I forgot the 04 STI's were 5x100

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