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Thread: Retro Racing R build

  1. #1

    Retro Racing R build

    After 100 or so hours of frame prep, we now get to play mechanical. Water neck mod, remake all rear suspension shims for heim joints, changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).
    IMG_0246.JPGIMG_0267.JPGIMG_0274.JPG

  2. #2
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Why didn't you use a swedge bar for the trailing arm ? Not enough tire clearance ?
    Tony Nadalin
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    After 100 or so hours of frame prep, we now get to play mechanical. Water neck mod, remake all rear suspension shims for heim joints, changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).
    IMG_0246.JPGIMG_0267.JPGIMG_0274.JPG
    Hi Retro,
    I like the white chassis.
    Your water pump inlet may stick out to far. By the time you add an elbow, it might rub on the chassis.
    IMG_0267.JPG

    If you decrease the size of your pictures to 1000x750 they will show up on your post.

    I also wanted to go all metric. There are a lot of 1/2" (12.7mm) holes that are difficult or expensive to change.
    Like shock ends and all the rod end holes are 1/2" (12.7mm).
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  4. #4
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    looks great. I have ordered my 818C and am planning on painting my chassis white so its good to see yours all gleaming.
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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Why didn't you use a swedge bar for the trailing arm ? Not enough tire clearance ?
    That would be my guess. I really like the white.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
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  6. #6
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).
    00296303-397595_500.jpg

    p2365698dt.jpg

    Wait, what's the issue?
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  7. #7
    THanks all, white was because our EP cars are white inside and underneath, so you can see each and every leak. The water neck is actually shorter than the pulley, so we are crossing fingers. We installed a double pass rad, with both inlet/outlet on the right side, so that we can plumb down the passenger side of the car. Swedge bar is new lingo to me (rotary noise has killed some brain cells), we just went with what we had, fine tune later, easy change once we know what kind of loads we are dealing with (may go with a small alum. trailing arm with Hiems on each end and some high misalignment spacers).
    Going kind small on the rears, so we will see what happens. Installing a bar on the rear with some lighter springs, looking at some better shocks as well.
    just remember, 1/2" is 13mm......I can live with that

  8. #8
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    00296303-397595_500.jpg

    p2365698dt.jpg

    Wait, what's the issue?
    Now that's funny

    http://gifs.gifbin.com/012010/1264091579_kirk_rofl.gif

  9. #9
    So, it's funny how you can put in 4-8 hours every day and see so little progress, but here we are. Clutch is in (Finally), fuel rails and injectors, header, pan, blah blah. Put the engine in the car, only to find our mounts (racey delerin things) are 1/2" taller than the stock ones, which means cutting our powder coated upper cross member thingy to miss the bypass valve actuator.....
    Thinking about either adding a step down in the center of the car (full length) to cover the header and speed the air down the center of the car and create some down force, or lower the whole floor by 1' (foam covered CF, graphite impregnated). Probably just do the center, less hassle, easier to remove if needed.
    IMG_0297.JPGIMG_0296.JPGIMG_0294.JPG

    Oh, and still finish the Miata, fix one of the EP cars that hit the wall, put the RX3 back together.........
    imagejpeg_2.jpg

  10. #10
    Why not modify the mounts? Or sell those and buy shorter ones? Lots of companies make them. I also came very close to making my own - they aren't very complicated pieces - but ended up with Group N mounts instead.

  11. #11
    Buzz,
    Thought about it, but we like the clearance of the headers right now, means we only need a 1" step down tunnel. I'm sure it will result in more unforeseen mods, but that just makes it ....fun??

  12. #12
    nows the time to drill and tap your coolant line to the degas tank as shown in Wayne's mod. Helps eliminate the air in the coolant system.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  13. #13
    So, we suck at bloging our build, sorry. Wheels, tires, brakes, steering, seat mounts all done, body fit. Starting the wiring, plumbing this week. Looks like Flat black with metallic orange stripes is the winning color pallet....
    818.JPG

  14. #14
    If I was KING OF THE WORLD there would be no black race cars allowed. They blend in to much with the black pavement and grey northwest skies . You just can't see them coming up behind you. Red, white, yellow, bright/light blue, whatever but no silver/grey or black. Your project looks great by the way. See you at the track.

  15. #15
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Powell View Post
    Your project looks great by the way. See you at the track.
    Gee, Steve you never tell me that !
    Tony Nadalin
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  16. #16
    5lb alternator mocked up and ready for install on the car, jacking points installed. Just finishing up the metal on the tub so that we can run water lines, then it's fit the air jacks and start pluming everything. Fuel cell is ordered ($4k...ouch!) and wing is on the way today. Doing a custom wing-thing, will post pictures as soon as the mounts are made and installed.
    alt1.JPGalt2.JPG

  17. #17
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Making great progress ! Looks good.
    Tony Nadalin
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  18. #18
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Nice alternator. One wire or three wire? Powermaster 8162?
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  19. #19
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    Nice alternator. One wire or three wire? Powermaster 8162?
    You just like it because it saves weight !
    Tony Nadalin
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  20. #20
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    You just like it because it saves weight !
    Na uh. I like it because, because, ....


    Well I don't have to have a reason! I can just like it if I want to!

    Does it come in an unpainted version?
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  21. #21
    Power master, don't remember the model but it is a one wire, 75amp. You have to machine a bushing for the pulley, but easy peasy. Sealed the front of the tub last night, now onto the rear bulkhead. We moved the fuel cell to the passenger compartment, so easy two piece, flat panel. Installing the intercooler tonight....should be fun! Yes, we did go inside/outside with the front panels, easier and better for access to the control arm bolts. (you know the ones.....)
    sealed-tub.JPG

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    After 100 or so hours of frame prep, we now get to play mechanical. Water neck mod, remake all rear suspension shims for heim joints, changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).
    IMG_0267.JPG
    Where did you find that water neck mod? I'd like to run our water lines up the middle (since we'll be running a fuel cell on the passenger side) to keep them out of harm's way in a side collision, and that water neck mod would be ideal to get the lines running that direction. Thanks!

  23. #23
    Cut the stock one flush at the mounting flange and weld on a 1.75" or 1.5" pipe (depending on your rad, etc.) You could even weld on an alum. elbow, just in how you want to do it, lots of clearance.

  24. #24
    Excellent. Thanks.

  25. #25
    Floor is in for the middle section, flat bottom for the rest of the car is cut and ready to install soon. Intercooler is almost in, scoop is being cut tonight to fit we hope, should have pics of rad shroud tomorrow as well.
    IMG_0368.JPGIMG_0370.JPGIMG_0371.JPG

  26. #26
    That is really sweet looking. Couple questions if you'll indulge me:

    Is that an A2A or an AWIC? I don't see any water lines, but they could be obscured by the sheet aluminum. Did you fabricate it yourself or purchase, and if so, where?

    I look forward to seeing the forward scoop and shroud.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    Floor is in for the middle section, flat bottom for the rest of the car is cut and ready to install soon. Intercooler is almost in, scoop is being cut tonight to fit we hope, should have pics of rad shroud tomorrow as well.
    IMG_0368.JPGIMG_0370.JPGIMG_0371.JPG
    Retro,
    Very interesting intercooler. Will it move with the engine and transmission?
    I suspect that it might hit the rear bumper. I can't tell for sure from that camera angle.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  28. #28
    Air to air, mounted to the top of the transmission so it will move with the engine. Clears the rear facia, oil cooler and transfer cooler will be mounted inside the box!
    Intercooler is a cxracing cooler, heavier than I wanted but good for a start

  29. #29
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Will your floor be removable? If not, getting the seats mounted could be very difficult.

  30. #30
    We welded in modified seat mounts for the OMP slider and seat, so no issue with the floor. We will be flat bottom for full length with only the center drop down for the tunnel removable under the engine. The center drop will be CF with carbon impregnated in the resin. Center drop down in only 1", but should create some extra downforce.

    Going with the GT250 wing, mounted on blades out of the rear of the car, that are welded to the rear frame. That will both protect the trans, and move the wing back a bit. We are also one-piecing the rear trunk lid and cover, makes it easier to get to the engine.

    will post pics of the front rad shroud once done this week.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    Going with the GT250 wing, mounted on blades out of the rear of the car, that are welded to the rear frame.
    That's my plan too, more or less. I won't get to that for quite some time, though. Can't wait to see your solution!

  32. #32
    We did get some stuff done today, seat in, peddle assembly, steering, oil cooler mounted in the inter cooler box, shifter mocked up, radiator outlet box done, etc.
    Pics to follow

  33. #33

  34. #34
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    I like the intercooler and oil-cooler integrated box. Good idea.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  35. #35
    I just like seeing different solutions to similar problems I love this from a packaging standpoint, but I'd be concerned about the heated air from the A2A providing insufficient cooling for the oil. I'd assume that RetroRacing doesn't share that concern. Care to share why -- is the post-A2A air just not that hot?

  36. #36
    A2A intercoolers are only about 70% efficient, so at 140 degrees out of the turbo, the net intake temp would be about 95, so the resulting through temp would be only 45 degrees above ambient. The cooler you see is a 12x12, capable of about 40k btu, so way over what it would need to be, but we thought better to tape it than to wish we needed more. We plan on mounting the trans cooler to the back of that unit as well. The fitting is for the trans vent, hose and filter later.
    The cooler is WAY more efficient if you control the air, as in force is all through the coolers without spillage. Once we mount the scoop and force fast cool air through the coolers.....

  37. #37
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    Some interesting idea's. I am going down the same road ducting the radiator exhaust air out through the hood.

  38. #38
    How do you attach the rad ducting at the radiator? That's always been a mystery to me.

  39. #39
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    Depends on the radiator, on other projects we have made tabs to mount or to attach the duct to or in our case the front radiator support/frame and seal the duct to the radiator with weather striping.
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 10-11-2016 at 06:46 PM.

  40. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch Wright View Post
    Depends on the radiator, on other projects we have made taps the mount or attach the duct to in our case the front radiator support/frame and seal the duct to the radiator with weather striping.
    That makes sense. Thanks!

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