Here are some pictures of the paddle shift that they put into the Saker. DSC00126.jpgDSC00128.jpgDSC00130.jpgDSC00131.jpgDSC00132.jpg
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Here are some pictures of the paddle shift that they put into the Saker. DSC00126.jpgDSC00128.jpgDSC00130.jpgDSC00131.jpgDSC00132.jpg
primed and ready for wrap
primed.JPG
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Will you be wrapping the individual panels then assembling or assembling then wrapping?
Very nice ! Moving right along ! I should be able to drop mine off for you to prime and get ready for paint in a week or so !
Bring it all up one sunny Saturday and your on! All it costs is beer and materials, which on this car, worked out to about a gallon of epoxy primer for the inside and outside of all the panels. Only takes us about an hour to shoot everything, and two hours to wipe/clean all of the parts prior to.
Yes, we are going to wrap each panel before install, just bought a s#!t ton of matte metallic 3M vinyl so that we can start on Saturday.
So pretty. What color are you going?
Actually looks pretty cool as is. Did you use any filler prior to primer?
No filler primer, just a boat load of filling and sanding on the rear fender mods and the rear cover. We sanded everything to 220 then shot epoxy primer/sealer on everything. We are tempted to stay black like on all of our other cars, but my wife just made it through some wicked breast cancer treatment and our suby guy wants blue, so it's Matte Metalic blue with pink accents. one piece rear deck.JPG
been awhile, we are starting the wiring and finish mounting panels, filling in missed gaps and items. Here is the grill and front end almost done....
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We decided to support the canards in a way that would allow us to add some if we need to. Still have to wrap most of it, really happy with the grill and how solid everything is, even without the fenders!
You might want to change the front mini qwik latches. I almost lost a hood at WS at 135MPH. One popped off because of the pressure- Scary event because I could of been whacked in the head with the hood. That was my first event. I did perform a gnarly braking test once it popped off. I replaced with good old trusty hood pins. I kept the rear mini qwik latches- those worked fine.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 04-28-2016 at 10:07 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Same problem but mine was on the toll road one late night early morning. Replaced my front with Zero decibels front hood hinge and kept the back mini latches. Loving the color combo. Keep it up.
+1 on the look!
Can you use Aero Catches instead? That would keep the smooth look but be a positive lock.
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http://www.amazon.com/AeroCatch-Plus...9GTR7P4XXZ0HR3
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
We usually do use aero latch, was just trying something new, looks like we need to take a look at that.
Who are you going to get to tune the car?
I had Rocket Rally lined up till they decided to focus on rally cars.
Looking for a dependable tuner in the Vancouver area.
Harley
Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
First Start Jan 18, 2015
First Drive Feb 14, 2015
Rocket did the Saker, hope that door isn't closed. We do have a Racepak dealer that is installing the ecu, will send you his info
Door skins and crash foam installed. almost have the dash done and the front cover installed (pics to follow). Made and mounted the battery box (sounds easy.....not) and electrical panel. We are running 2 main relays so that we can use a toggle switch as the kill, pics to follow.....
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I was hoping you could make it to Pacific Raceways this weekend. Will you be at Spokane June 17-19? I can't make the June 3-5 PIR race weekend.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
I blew my engine at Pacific. (The second year in a row). A fellow racer who has wanted my car for years came over and made me an offer to take the car as is. I accepted it so now I'm in the market for 818R. As we've discussed in other threads I think I'm going for a lightweight NA build in NASA ST3. This is a long way of saying I hope to be at Spokane with a new car, (not likely) but if not I'd still like to come up and crew on your team for the weekend.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Would love to have you!!
Here is what we got done this week. Windscreen delete is in and wrapped, still working on the passenger side cover. Got the dash 99%, main relays in (so we can use a toggle switch main), battery box made and installed, as well as some wrapping on the doors, some electrical, just overall detail stuff.
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I'm liking what you've done and where this is going. Keep feeding us.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
I like the windscreen delete idea. CF?
Yes, 1/8" plywood core, triangle foam stiffiners
The car is already sold but he's going to tell me what went wrong. I have a strong suspicion though. When I tried to start it back in my paddock space my wife said "It sounds like you have rocks in the engine". Indeed it did! When I got closer about half the sound was coming up thru the intake manifold. It sounded nothing like a spun bearing. But the other oddness was half the sound appeared to be inside the plastic timing covers, like things were banging around and slapping against the timing covers. All of which leads me to think the timing belt broke (not likely, new Gates Racing belt) or one of the timing bits unscrewed and fell off. Then the belt skipped at 5,500 rpm and 120 mph, bending all the valves when they crashed into the pistons.
Gates has a specific advisory that this can happen if you don't use Loctite on the tensioner bolt, they even include Loctite in the kits now.
I have a suspicion that the shop may have just torqued the bolt in without the Loctite. It wouldn't surprise me, the tech is a factory Subaru tech and in the FSM they don't mention using Loctite on the tensioner bolt, so if he was following the FSM he wouldn't have known.
See: https://www.gates.com/~/media/files/...ru_loctite.pdf
There's lots more info in the bulletin about doing your timing belt replacement but here is the relevant part to this discussion:
"Once the tensioner bracket is carefully inspected, the hydraulic timing belt tensioner may be installed. It is essential for the pivot bolt as well as the bracket threads to be CLEAN & DRY before continuing! Proceed by applying several drops of Loctite® 243™ Medium Strength Threadlocker to the first few threads of the tensioner pivot bolt and immediately install the bolt by hand."
A lesson for us all. Personally I used Loctitie on all the timing parts bolts when I rebuilt my Spec B myself last winter. Not just the tensioner but all the idlers and bracket bolts too.
Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 05-16-2016 at 11:08 AM.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
That's a lot like what is sounded like when we dropped a valve on the MR2 in a race. The intake manifold sounded like a wind chime if you shook it after we disassembled it from the motor. Good tip on the loctite, thanks.
So, we are getting some stuff done, really into my vinyl right now, getting ready to tackle the more difficult parts later in the week. It is a two, sometimes three person operation, Chris and are really learning allot about it. One thing, NEVER buy wrap from China!! Stick with 3M or Avery or you will hate yourself, the person beside you, the car, your wife and your dog.
Now, some pics of the airbox and intake, as well as our completed hump for the A2A intercooler. We did get the passenger side cover done and covered (no pic cause I'm an idiot), the rear view screen I mounted and a bunch of wires are hooked up. We had to make splitter supports because they are so short, you can't buy them and the left hand tap was cheap. we have to wait to install the canards and canard supports until we finish fitting the lights...for the umpteenth time (they really need to do better, it should not be this difficult!) and the light shields.
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I had a problem in the 818r reaching the switches as the dash was so far away when I strapped into the seat, I had to finger tip and stretch just to flip the power button on. Also in the 25hr car we put in a light to illuminate the switches. It is really really dark at the 25hr! Nice to see switches. With that in mind put some reflective tape on the outside just so others can see you (we wrapped some of the roll bars with reflective trailer tape)
Build looks fantastic! Keep up the great work
***SOLD!!! - NASA ST2 FFR#48 Gen3 Type65 Coupe R, Street legal.***
***SOLD!!! - NASA ST2 FFR#48 Challenge Car rolling chassis, Street legal.***
http://johngeorgeracing.com
Yup, know all about the darkness at the 25, even in the caterham, struggled to see what I was flipping. our switches are lit, and we are putting some red led lighting on the front cover (pics to follow) for just that reason. I like the reflective on the cage idea, we want to protect the cage anyway, so some white reflective tape may be just the thing.
I can't wait to see it in Spokane!
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
IMG_1090.JPGIMG_1089.JPG
Wait to see....we are also trying to keep the vortices along the side of the car.
Go the IQ3 mounted last night, hope to get the deflector mounted onto the dash cover tonight for a better pic of what we are trying to do.
Looks great
Well, we missed yet another deadline, so no Spokane for us. We are really getting close, but the details are killing productivity and we refuse to rush it at this point. Here is how she looks today, we are solid up to the front bulkhead.
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Looking good !!!! I just got back from 100 degree day of racing in Spokane, not fun, they have made track improvements, not many but its getting better. I don't see a test & tune day either and I'm not going to try to race the car w/o some shakedown.
I like the idea of the plate on top of the air tunnel going to radiator as mine is open there and that may force more air in radiator.
I still have a target of Spokane but since no test and tune that is out
Last edited by FFRSpec72; 06-06-2016 at 04:33 PM.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Really cool stuff you're incorporating into this build. Can't wait to see some track video.
Where did you get that expanded sheet metal material for the front grill? Looks awesome!
The plate on top serves multiple functions, holds the hood down both with the fasteners and by the hood having to slide into place, the front lip of the hood is under the plate. it also makes the air travel through the rad, without pushing up on the hood first and going over the rad. It will also mount the flasher unit for the passing lights.
the grill material is plastic and very easy to work with. We mounted it backside of the front bar with insert nuts, and to the top plate....add that to the multi use of the top plate.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331531229653...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT