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Thread: Retro Racing R build

  1. #321
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    Got the wrap and blankets on the ceramic coated exhaust last night. It that doesn't make a difference then nothing will. Also, finished mounting and pluming our electric water pump for the turbo. Blew through it no problem when not running, so water will flow normally when out on track if the pump is on or off, then, when shut down for pit stop, our pit plug will run the pump to keep the turbo cool during pit stops or after running. The pump is on a 180 temp switch, so it will keep pushing water through the turbo until its under 180 degrees.

    Attachment 65186
    Very nice !
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
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    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  2. #322
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    Jeff, where and how did you install your high-pressure fuel pump? I've had many thoughts on this but all of them have con's (like everything else, right). Thoughts?

  3. #323
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    In tank. We have a custom fuel cell that sits low in the passenger area, that has an internal surge tank, pump and high pressure feed pump.

  4. #324
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    Picked up two new tow vehicles over the last few weeks. One was a 2016 Ford Superduty Diesel F250 to pull the 24' support trailer, and, a 1985 Peterbuilt called "Optimus Prime", which some people insist on calling BJ and the Bear. All I know, is towing should be allot less hassle.
    optimus prime.JPG

  5. #325
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    We are also using a custom fuel cell, but with an internal pump and a surge box. The surge box has flaps that let fuel in but don't let it out. Haven't tested it yet so I can't say how well this setup works. We have seen similar setups work well in cars with much more down force and thus higher g loading.
    818R Build date 10/31/15

  6. #326
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Why are you doing things half-*** with that midget trailer? JK You are the boss.

  7. #327
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    So, not good news from the dyno. Our first attempt at a refresh on an ej did not go as planed, we seem to have bearing in the oil after start up, and the start of rod noise, so we are not making the Ridge.
    Ordering stuff for our second motor, hope to do better this time. I think I know where we went wrong, but will only know for sure when we tear it apart. We also found some shorting in wires remote from the engine bay, but due to the fire (our wide band controller got fried). Right now, it is in detention for being bad, and so that we can focus on our three EP cars for the start of the season.

    Jeff

  8. #328
    Moonlight Performance
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    Oh no! Sorry to hear that Jeff! But I agree with your approach - put it in the background and focus on the fun stuff for now. Come back to it when ready.

  9. #329
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    So, not good news from the dyno. Our first attempt at a refresh on an ej did not go as planed, we seem to have bearing in the oil after start up, and the start of rod noise, so we are not making the Ridge.
    ... I think I know where we went wrong, but will only know for sure when we tear it apart. ... Jeff
    I can empathize with you. Though I have had success I have had to stop and reconsider using several cases earmarked for an engine I was building. The EJ's are a little touchy to build. My main journals were way off in one used case I was trying to use and the other had a small front journal, which is not that unusual. An "X" King bearing fixed that. If you don't get #3 main clearanced right you are going to be f'd. If it's too big you had bettered have a lot of oil pump or you will take out #2 or #3 rods.
    I had to get one case line-honed because I couldn't make it work no matter how I shuffled bearings. Case bolts and head studs you use, and how much you torque them, can also pull everything out of whack. Torque plates must be used when boring or line honing and all the pieces going into the build should be the same pieces/same torque used when measuring everything. I will not build another 500 HP engine without having the mains pinned. With a used or "aged" case you have to check everything because it can really move around once disassembled.
    I had custom rods that were out of round until I torqued them to 100% of the ARP bolt's rating. Four to six pounds less left them uncomfortably out of round at 5~6 tenths when they were already at .002".
    So, for a performance engine, a Subaru motor really needs a lot of attention paid to it.
    Where do you think you went wrong?
    Last edited by Scargo; 04-10-2017 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Added more comments

  10. #330
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Sorry about the issues. I guess the darn R curse was not only on my old car. Speaking of which, My old car is getting a new motor
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
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  11. #331
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    Retro, that is a sucker punch but good news is you know what the assembly issues were.
    The great news is there are those of us that have not had engines issues with our 818 track cars and gathering data that will be useful to others. So when you guys get back to it I sure the car will be a beast.

  12. #332
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Dang. Hope to see the 818R at the PIR race May 4-5-6.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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  13. #333
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Here you go Jeff, eliminate 2/3 of your fuel pit stops at the THill 25, and you could probably just put the car in 5th gear and never shift again!
    Subaru EE20 Diesel.




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    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  14. #334
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    THat's funny I was just looking at that engine!!!

  15. #335
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Here is a picture I took of that car at PP 2013

    ds.jpg

    ds2.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
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  16. #336
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    So, finally getting to the 818 after a bunch of RX7 stuff. Engine is back together ready for install in the car. We went with the 2.3l Version five RA top end, the best rods and pistons we could find. Cleaning up some wiring in the cockpit, then off to the dyno for tuning to 103 octane at 18psi.

    Front tires are now 15" with 12" brakes, helped lower the car by over 2" if we want. Now the center tunnel is only an inch or so off the pavement, so no off roading! Installing the lit number panels on the doors, a new data capture unit and some aero latch. Then, vinyl repairs and we will be back on track for more testing.

  17. #337
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    Jeff, IIRC you had some issues with your wing bending the smaller square tube behind the main chassis. Am I remembering that correctly? And if so, what was your solution to that -- did you just beef up the existing chassis or did you redirect the attachment point of your wing uprights? Thanks.

  18. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    ...Front tires are now 15" with 12" brakes, helped lower the car by over 2" if we want. Now the center tunnel is only an inch or so off the pavement, so no off roading!...
    Jeff,
    How much squat do you think you'll get at 150mph with your aero setup? If it works as well as it looks like it should the tunnel may only be 1/2" off the ground at speed.
    Looking forward to see it back on the track.
    818R Build date 10/31/15

  19. #339
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    IMG_1385.JPG

    We installed two removable strut braces up to the top rear suspension points, so no more bending (and we can still remove the engine/transmission).
    Yup, we are really wondering where our ride height will be at speed. We are running 0 degrees on the wing right now, with 750lb rear springs and 500 fronts, so you are right when you say we could see 250lbs of front down force and 375lbs rear at speed. test and tune, test and tune......

  20. #340
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff. That makes a lot of sense.

  21. #341
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    Started the car last night, new muffler sounds awesome. Making a dyno appointment today, will post video once we have it tuned. Since I blew up another engine in my EP car, time to focus on the 818.

  22. #342
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    We started preliminary body fitting last weekend and it looks like your solution for 15" on the front makes a lot of sense. Which wheels did you end up going with front & rear?

  23. #343
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    We went with Voxx Milena on the front, 7x15 with Hoosier 245 slicks and XXR 527, 9.75x17 on the rear with Hoosier 265 slicks

    527.pngvoxx Milena.jpg

    They are both in flat black, and are similar enough that you can't tell they are different styles. We are running a Willwood kit front and rear, and clearance is REALLY close up front, so not sure what you have for clearance with what you are using. I can measure if you like.

  24. #344
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'd love to know the ID of the front wheel. We still have the stock 2002 WRX brake setup on the front and will likely retain that for the initial sorting and suspension setup runs with the car, but will swap to a Wilwood setup prior to doing any endurance racing.

    Are you guys still shooting for the 25 Hours in December?

  25. #345
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    Yes we are, it's going to be a tough road, but if the car behaves at the 8 hour in October, we are fully commited. I'm going to run it at as many of the one hours as I can from now until the October endure, plus track days at the ridge. We feel setting up for the ridge should be as close to thunderhillish as we can find locally.

  26. #346
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Bring it down to ORP next weekend!
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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  27. #347
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    Ha! would love to but we have to dyno it, re-mount the body, install the data acquisition module, light panels on the doors, re-vinyl the fire damaged areas, etc.

  28. #348
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Nice rims. 245s are wide, I get rubbing on 215s.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  29. #349
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Apparently you are ahead of me in the dyno line. Just licenced my car on Monday. Lots of paperwork.
    I'm going in for dyno next week.
    Good luck.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  30. #350
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    Ha! so are we, our oil pump lip seal is leaking on our cosworth pump, and, it's putting out 140psi of oil pressure, so picking up the car in the morning to pull the engine and change the pump to our 11mm spare. Never made even break in.....

  31. #351
    Harley818's Avatar
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    must be frustrating.....
    I'm just breaking mine in now so my fingers are crossed.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  32. #352
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Ah that sucks! Those are the frustrating moments.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  33. #353
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    Picked up the car Saturday morning from Racing Greed at 9:30, back to the shop 30min away, engine out, oil pump changed (crank seal was blown) and back in the car by 5pm. Loading it up tonight for delivery back to them tomorrow.
    Gave us the chance to sort a few routing issues, so not a total waste of time....

  34. #354
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Next race or testing laps are forecasted for when?

    That's bad English writing, isn't it?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  35. #355
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    SO, engine builder came up on Saturday to look at the oil out of the filter. It's so frustrating when what you say is happening doesn't happen when you need it to, in otherwords, the oil was clear!
    Now, we take it to Mission next-next weekend for a day of break in at 7lbs of boost to see if all is good. Our other block is out getting cleaned and rebuilt just in case, but fingers are crossed that what we were seeing was just bits from the last time, that may have been caught up in the lines and pump on the scavenge side of things, even though we cleaned it for days...

    If all is good, testing again at the Ridge the following week.

  36. #356
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    Good luck, Jeff. Hey, quick question -- I know we talked about this years ago (!) but could you drop a photo of how you did your intake from the turbo forward to the bellmouth on the passenger side front housing? I'm having a hard time visualizing it. Putting it together right now I'd have to build a snorkel LOL. Thx.

  37. #357
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    IMG_1087.JPG

    elbow back, straight, elbow up, 45 degree elbow so you are flat, then an inline filter to a velocity stack on the other side of the hump cover. We have an updated one using a metal inline filter housing instead of the composite unit, metal doesn't burn.....

  38. #358
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    Thanks, that makes total sense seeing it that way (and I laughed at the dark humor too). Where did you move the header tank for the coolant turbo -- or did you just get rid of it with that supplemental water pump?

  39. #359
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    IMG_1385.JPG
    Moved it to the other side of the engine, mounted to the diagonal bar with insert nuts. A little more hose for plumbing, but easy install and can stay in the car when pulling the engine. It's also very high up, which seams to help in keeping air our of the system

  40. #360
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Hey Jeff, the oil issue sort of fixed itself by itself without knowing if it's really fixed?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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