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Thread: Retro Racing R build

  1. #41
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    Its just a 90 degree bend and some weather stripping. We should be getting the intake side done later this week, it will not be on the outside of the front support frame, but bent to fit only the core section of the rad, trying to force air through the tanks never seems to work....
    Fun part is the complex bend to match the bottom "cat fish mouth" of the splitter/nose. Will look great when done, but why must they do that to me!!! Since we have a 3 core, double pass rad, we will be taking the brake ducting from the airbox instead of making up stuff in the front.
    Note to FFR, duct hose is round, a 3" round brake duct intake in the air dam wouldn't be too much to ask.....would it?

  2. #42
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    What class are you building this car to race in?
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  3. #43
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    I can atest that anything you think will work 100% before testing, will fall victim to the 818 Curse. Nothing works like you think with the 818- its so wierd (Airflow, Heat management, vents etc)
    Thanks- Chad
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  4. #44
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    Building it for the ES class at the 25 hour next year, going to run every enduro next year to test. Here is a pic of the intercooler scoop mocked up. Yes, we are looking at probably changing 30-40% of what we are doing in both aero and engine, after building 10 or so race cars, you kinda have to just except it when building something different.
    scoop.JPG

  5. #45
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    Building it for the ES class at the 25 hour next year, going to run every enduro next year to test. Here is a pic of the intercooler scoop mocked up. Yes, we are looking at probably changing 30-40% of what we are doing in both aero and engine, after building 10 or so race cars, you kinda have to just except it when building something different.
    scoop.JPG
    I wasn't knocking you- Everything looks great. I'm just baffled with this 818. Scoop looks good, have you thought of puller fans below the oil cooler? Or do you think that might restrict flow?
    Thanks- Chad
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  6. #46
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    I know you weren't, your comments always seem positive and we are all looking to make this thing work. We do have a puller fan ready to go, just in case, but want to test without first. We will be wiring a temp switch into the box as well so that the fan (if installed) will eliminate heat soak when shut down. (probably in the oil circuit) It will be nice to have one fan cool all coolers during shut down.

  7. #47
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    That scoop looks sweet. CF or fiberglass? I was planning to run our A2A in the side scoop area, but seeing this I might reconsider that plan. Keeping that intercooler in that location would certainly reduce the air plumbing and thus reduce any lag.

  8. #48
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    Fiberglass made by Kurk818 in Seattle. He only made a few, but I think he plans to make more this winter.
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  9. #49
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    Ebay, Boss mustang, needs to be altered significantly to fit properly, but we got skills. We are using a 26 x 12 x 3" intercooler, so hard to find an exact fit. We will be pulling a mold for ourselves, will let you know how it works out once we complete it. We are making the whole rear top section one piece instead of two, and we have cut the side things off and mounted them to the fenders to make access to the engine easier. Since we are mounting the wing from the rear, no issues with doing that.

  10. #50
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    We fit the lights last night.....that joke was not funny.

  11. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    We fit the lights last night.....that joke was not funny.
    Ha! You can say that again.

    To make it even better, the light pattern and beam alignment will be nowhere near where it should be.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Fiberglass made by Kurk818 in Seattle. He only made a few, but I think he plans to make more this winter.

    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    Ebay, Boss mustang, needs to be altered significantly to fit properly, but we got skills. .
    oops...I thought I was in C. Plavan's thread. That explains why I couldn't find my post later, because it was in this thread.
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  13. #53
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    Going aftermarket for some HID's once we finish fitting these, also adding some 4" 100w hid spots in the "grill" area.

  14. #54
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    Fitting body panels is time consuming, dirty, sucky work. Did, however, get the splitter in place and the front portion of the flat bottom mocked up and ready for final install (once the airjacks, rad hoses, brake lines, etc are installed.
    IMG_0438.JPG

  15. #55
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    Shorter than stock intercooler piping??? Maybe.
    IMG_0441.JPG

  16. #56
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    Custom end-caps? Slick! Have you considered the pressure drop with that dual-pass setup?

  17. #57
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    Really been hard to find the time to work on the 818 with getting the RX3 ready for sale, winterizing the 7's etc.
    Got the ducting done for the rad, just need to vinyl wrap the inside to slicken it up a bit, now onto some splitter supports and fiber glassing the rear area together into one piece. Decided to snorkel the intercooler once we saw the wind tunnel results.
    Templates are out to the water jet guy for the air jack mounts, hope to have them in this weekend.IMG_0468.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #58
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    What form are you using to snorkel the intercooler plenum? Or are you building a custom one?

    Here's a thought. The Norma M20 FC won the 25 Hours of Thunderhill last year. I think it's just running an N/A engine, so this was only for air intake and not A2A cooling, but the location and principle should be similar even if we would need a slightly larger intake area, and it could be faired in to have a minimal effect on the wing:

    http://www.auroramotorsports.com/norma/norma.htm

  19. #59
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    Here's a photo of the actual winning car. Different snorkel intake. This wouldn't work on the 818 due to the center-driver location so we don't have that kind of room in the same location, but it's another idea:

    Davidson Norma 17.jpg

    That air intake pod on the #7 next to the #17 is an interesting idea too.

  20. #60
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    Its going to be a buy one, alter it kinda thing. Dead center, attached to the intercooler so that the rear deck will sit over it. Going to play with the height to insure clear air without affecting the flow to the rear wing. BTW, what is the overall consensus on rear wing height? we have the ability to set it at any height and are thinking just over the height of the cage to get some clear air....thoughts?

    BtW, that Norma is sick in the corners!

  21. #61
    Senior Member Mulry's Avatar
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    I'll see if Roland can get a scale on what he's seeing in the airflow simulations that he's playing with. From looking at how F1 and LMP bodies handle this issue rear of their safety hoop or roof, I suspect that minimizing the effect on the rear wing comes down mostly to the transition at the rear of the scoop/intake so that the air flowing past the scoop is at minimal turbulence.

    I agree that wing height should probably be above the cage height to get it out of that turbulent flow -- unless we can figure out a fairing for the cage. I've been working on thinking of a way to 3D print spars for a fairing that could then be covered with CF or fiberglass (or sheet aluminum?) so that we reduce the cage as a source of drag. We really should just fair the entire thing into a connection at the body on the fenders and rear deck, but that would be a ton of complex CF molding.

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mulry View Post
    I agree that wing height should probably be above the cage height to get it out of that turbulent flow -- unless we can figure out a fairing for the cage. I've been working on thinking of a way to 3D print spars for a fairing that could then be covered with CF or fiberglass (or sheet aluminum?) so that we reduce the cage as a source of drag. We really should just fair the entire thing into a connection at the body on the fenders and rear deck, but that would be a ton of complex CF molding.
    I have been thinking about building a fairing for the main hoop the same way. The one on the Norma above just tucks inside the center section of the body, doesn't really blend at all.

  23. #63
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    IMG_0502.JPGIMG_0503.JPGIMG_0504.JPGfinally got the bump steer spacers in and shimmed, the splitter supports in and the brake reservoir installed. Plumbing brakes now (finally) and continueing to fight the body work.

  24. #64
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Nice bump steer kit. You make that yourself?

    I also like that brake duct work to the full rotor hat. Nice.
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  25. #65
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    THanks, and yes, kinda made it ourselves in that we ordered 2 pinto bump steer spacers, two 4.5" grade 8 bolts and 2 heim joints, then just drilled, used flat washers to shim. Just threading the 6" alum tube now for the adapter. $70 in parts.

  26. #66
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    The radiator ducting looks good. I like it
    818R Build date 10/31/15

  27. #67
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Nice work. Do have pictures and measurements of the pieces that make up the radiator ducting? It does look sweet.

  28. #68
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    We are using an aftermarket rad in a custom location, so probably no good to anyone not doing the same thing, but thanks! the real pain was the complex bends required to seal the splitter/nose/sides due to the shape of the bottom opening of the nose!

  29. #69
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    Added the airjacks to the jack points, one on each side in the back and one in the center middle. Will update pics when done, but really happy with how they are fitting in with the rad hoses and such so far.
    airjack.JPG

  30. #70
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    Added the airjacks to the jack points, one on each side in the back and one in the center middle. Will update pics when done, but really happy with how they are fitting in with the rad hoses and such so far.
    airjack.JPG
    Very nice. You can use a 911 jack pad when you dont want to use gas. It will fit right in the tube.
    Thanks- Chad
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  31. #71
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    Already made two of those to work with both the jack and the jack stands. Great minds and all....., but ours are yellow

  32. #72
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    Finished connecting the rad to the engine, pretty happy with the way it worked out, maybe putting a secondary bleed in the upper rad hose, even though we have one on top of the engine (the high point in the system.)
    IMG_0517.JPGIMG_0518.JPGIMG_0515.JPG

  33. #73
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    So that jack pad fits right into the FFR supplied frame tube? Even on an 818S?

  34. #74
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    No, sorry, that is all custom added but would have been nice for an S. Pretty much everything we post is custom, we cut out about 25lbs in extra WTF steel (for an R) and still could have cut another 10lbs if we were to do it again. We did have to add back the jacking points and airjack mounts, but overall a big net difference.

  35. #75
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    Front air jack is in, now just the plumbing!
    airjackfront.JPG

  36. #76
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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  37. #77
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    Looks like a great build under way! Glad to see folks are doing some serious ducting on the radiator exit. I'm in for that as well and yes, a non-OEM style radiator helps a lot.

    I admit that I share Mulry's concern about stacking so many heat exchangers in the same line of flow. Seems there's plenty of other places to put them on the car, so I don't know why you would want to keep them all in the same place. At any rate, if your shakedown runs prove out our concerns...I'm guessing you guys won't have trouble re-fabbing a new solution. =)

    Great work!

    Best,
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    Last edited by Santiago; 11-13-2015 at 03:06 PM.
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  38. #78
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    Too cold water will be the issue. Our oil cooler is under the intercooler, and is huge (60 row) and again may run to cold. Trans cooler is behind that, and is our only concern (may need to run it up front, not the end of the world). Ill post some detailed pics and measurements. You do have to cut bigger holes I the hood, but that is no big deal.
    intercooler box.JPGintercooler box2.JPGintercoolerbox3.JPGoilcooler.JPG

  39. #79
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    Nice Fab job. Is that a 2.5 NA intake manifold? Any swapping issues using it?
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  40. #80
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    Thanks! Then engine is a JDM Ver3 STI RA. We sanded off all of the flaking red paint and cut off all of the unused mounts.

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