Tamra & Andrew's 818 Door Instructions

[Tamra]

Part 1


Between the Factory Five manual and Wayne's Tips here, I was able to successfully assemble and install the doors with only a handful of bloopers. I definitely had some questions come up and some areas that weren't clear to me (I am not the most mechanically inclined though), so I'll post my experience here in case it might help anyone else. I did most of the work myself, with Andrew stepping in to assist when I had a hard time, and he also cut the fiberglass (it's fragile and made me nervous).

Step 1: Install striker support bracket inside of side sail and snug it up, making sure it is pressed against the side sail (don't want any space that could stress the fiberglass). Using Wayne's tip, I used a flashlight from the back, and traced the holes of the striker support bracket onto the front of the side sail. I then duck taped the striker in place over the holes I traced.



Step 2: Install Subaru latch onto door frame. We picked up some m6x20mm flatheads and countersunk the door frame.


Step 3: Install door frame (assembled hinges as per manual, although I didn't mark which was upper/lower from the donor car so I just made it match the photo in the manual. I put driver hinges on the driver side). Adjust hinges until door opens and closes easily on striker, and also make sure striker seems to be positioned correctly. Once you are sure everything seems to be in the right spot, drill the striker holes and install the OEM bolts.

Step 4: Mark where door skin hits striker. Measure and cut door skin so it passes by striker. Remember, the measurement is from the striker to the frame, not the edge of the side sail. Also, make sure you have cardboard or paint sticks around the edge so you get the skin at the right height before marking your location to cut. Also, trim the front lower corner so it doesn't hit the side sail.




Step 5: Drill two convenient holes in the door frame. You will use these to attach the door skin to. Close the door frame and ensure it is fully latched. Set the door skin in place on the cardboard to ensure it's in the correct location, mark through the holes you just drilled, and then drill the skin.


Step 6: Countersink the skin and install flat head screws with locknuts.


Step 7: Drill the mirror mounting holes. On the top front of the door skin, I followed Wayne's measurement of setting the door skin 3/16" over the door frame. I found a 3/16" drill and maneuvered the skin until it was at the right location (easier than a tape measure). I clamped it in place, and then simply drilled up and through the skin with a 1/4" bit. Be careful not to hit the windshield frame. For now, the bolt is just to hold the skin in place. I used a flange head screw, but if you have clearance issues with the windshield use a flat head for final mounting. Also, position the door frame where you want it to be for final mounting, and mark the lower holes. You will drill them once the door is removed from the car, so make sure you mark them carefully.

[Tamra]

Step 8: Remove the door frame, leaving the hinges attached to the car. Drill and countersink the lower holes you marked in step 7. One of these bolts will interfere with the hinge bolts, so one or the other will likely have to be cut shorter. Also, drill the 2nd upper mirror mount hole.


Step 9: Find the door aluminum, install weather stripping, and trace hinge holes. Drill/cut out the holes.


Step 10: Trim the door card to fit. The door card fits on the top of the door, but inside the side and bottom. You will need to cut a notch in the upper corner so it can transition from inside to outside the door. Also, if necessary, trim the rear of the door card so it sits flush with the aluminum.


Step 11: Notch the door card so it fits around the door latch. The door card will need to sit flush with the door. On ours, without trimming, it sat higher than the door and the door couldn't latch. I trimmed the edge so it could sit flush. Also cut out the striker area.


Step 12: Cut out the door handle area. I used the aluminum as a template, traced the hole, and then used a step drill in the corners, followed by an air saw to cut out the shape of the handle. (not pictured)

Step 13: Install weather stripping (not pictured). Position door card, and then drill, countersink, and install flat head screws. These attach the door card to the fiberglass. I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole followed by a 3/16" hole only through the fiberglass (so the screws can pass through the fiberglass easily but must be screwed into the door card), and then screwed them in.



Step 14: Once the handle location is finalized, set the handle in place and find a tool that fits through the bolt hole. Apply paint marker to the tip, and press down until it hits the door frame and leaves a mark. Drill for a 25/64" rivnut as provided by FFR. Also, drill out Subaru handle for 1/4" bolt (hole is slightly too small). Note: make sure door card is in correct location before marking for rivnut.


Step 15: Put bends in the rod until it is the right length. Futz with it until it hooks securely in the handle. Ours took quite a bit of work until it was really securely attached, as it wanted to slip out of the handle at first. Warning: this part is very frustrating. Also, see photo for spacer we installed. The door card holds the handle from twisting and it feels fairly secure once all installed.

[Tamra]

Step 16: Zip tie the child lock and the regular lock so they cannot change location. Make sure the latch functions properly.


Step 17: Install the mirror bracket and tighten in its final location. Pictured are button head screws, but if you have clearance issues with your windshield, you can countersink the mirror bracket and install flat head screws. Test fit the door card around the mirror bracket and clearance it if necessary. Optionally, install the mirror now (recommended). If you forget, you can install it once the door is on the car, accessing the inner screws using a screwdriver tip and a 1/4" wrench or pliers.


Step 18: Install the aluminum door handle on the door card. Then, install the door card onto the door. Press in door handle trim ring.




Final Step: Wipe down door to make it look pretty (not pictured).

[philly15]

I'm really glad you posted this! I am working on my doors right now, and had no idea how the door card and handle was supposed to go in.

[matteo92065]

Nice write up! Just a month too late.

I like all the flat head fasteners, a very clean look.

Did you fit your finished doors, aligned with the body and latches with the dashboard in?
Individually, all my parts looked and functioned properly, but when I put it all together the door panels would "squish" the dashboard when the doors were closed. As I saw it, there are two ways of fixing this 1) move doors out using door hinge slots, 2) trim door fiberglass in area shown. I trimmed the fiberglass so the door panel would give the dash the required clearance.
door trim.jpg

[Presto51]

Step 16: Zip tie the child lock and the regular lock so they cannot change location. Make sure the latch functions properly.


Step 17: Install the mirror bracket and tighten in its final location. Pictured are button head screws, but if you have clearance issues with your windshield, you can countersink the mirror bracket and install flat head screws. Test fit the door card around the mirror bracket and clearance it if necessary. Optionally, install the mirror now (recommended). If you forget, you can install it once the door is on the car, accessing the inner screws using a screwdriver tip and a 1/4" wrench or pliers.


Step 18: Install the aluminum door handle on the door card. Then, install the door card onto the door. Press in door handle trim ring.




Final Step: Wipe down door to make it look pretty (not pictured).

Very nice write up, but you forgot step 19........ Grab and open an adult beverage of choice, because you REALLY earned it

Keep up the great work

Ron

[AZPete]

Tamra, this write-up will be helpful to many following. It's too late for me because I have mounted my doors and I'm waiting for the power window release before I mount the cards and handles. Great write-up.

[Tamra]

Nice write up! Just a month too late.

I like all the flat head fasteners, a very clean look.

Did you fit your finished doors, aligned with the body and latches with the dashboard in?
Individually, all my parts looked and functioned properly, but when I put it all together the door panels would "squish" the dashboard when the doors were closed. As I saw it, there are two ways of fixing this 1) move doors out using door hinge slots, 2) trim door fiberglass in area shown. I trimmed the fiberglass so the door panel would give the dash the required clearance.
door trim.jpg

Yup, our dash is in but we didn't have that problem. Did you space it 3/16" off of the top door mount location?

Thanks everyone else for the complements! I hope this thread is helpful for future/current builders. Also, if you see anything I missed, let me know!

[Frank818]

Awesome! I was about to start but didn't know if I could do anything on the door frame without the need to align with the door panel and/or side sail. I'll re-plan my steps, print this tutorial and move on with Wayne's and other stuff I got.

[TouchStone]

I'm glad I found this. Has anyone used a non Subaru door handle? Something that looks a bit more modern.

[wleehendrick]

I'm glad I found this. Has anyone used a non Subaru door handle? Something that looks a bit more modern.

When I get to the doors, I'm planning a simple nylon strap pull, like on the Boxster Spyder:

2010-porsche-boxster-spyder-door-handle.jpg

[CNC_Geek]

My plan is to place a small button near the top of the inside door pull. Then use an electric solenoid to unlatch the door. No cutting into the panel or mounting the Subaru door release. I also plan on retaining the electric mirrors and may mount speakers in the door too. Building for comfort and speed.

[Meatball]

My plan is to place a small button near the top of the inside door pull. Then use an electric solenoid to unlatch the door. No cutting into the panel or mounting the Subaru door release. I also plan on retaining the electric mirrors and may mount speakers in the door too. Building for comfort and speed.

Small button near the top of the inner door pull? Will you not have to "cut into the panel and mount the Subaru door release" to install the inner door pull? I guess I am confused as to what you are saying here. Will you please explain this a bit better for someone who isn't so smart most of the time?

[CU9DZ]

My donor 02 WRX latches don't fit flat into FFR door frames. If I put the screws in, the latch hits the inside of the L of door frame. The screw closest to the L is too short to bite. Any ideas?
CU9DZ

[Tamra]

My donor 02 WRX latches don't fit flat into FFR door frames. If I put the screws in, the latch hits the inside of the L of door frame. The screw closest to the L is too short to bite. Any ideas?
CU9DZ

I'm not sure why they wouldn't fit flat. Do you have any photos?

The OEM screws won't work. We picked up some M6x20mm flatheads.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My donor 02 WRX latches don't fit flat into FFR door frames. If I put the screws in, the latch hits the inside of the L of door frame. The screw closest to the L is too short to bite. Any ideas?
CU9DZ

I had to grind some edges on the latch to get them to fit flat. Also used longer screws.
Bob

[CU9DZ]

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...1454893032?874
I Have a pic on photobucket called 818 door latch. If someone tells me how to upload from anywhere to here then I will try. The problem with the donor door latch seems that the holes in the rear of the door frame are too close to the L shape of the frame. I think FFR measured from the outside of the L not the inside when deciding where to cut holes. There are three holes to hold latch to the frame.
The only quick solution seems to be to shave some material off the latch.
CU9DZ

[CU9DZ]

In Andrew & Tamra's post #1 step 5 you have a picture of latch in the FFR frame. The latch seems to be hitting the L of the frame not sitting flat. I'm just tired of doing modifications because FFR didn't do a good job designing this kit.
CU9DZ

[STiPWRD]

In Andrew & Tamra's post #1 step 5 you have a picture of latch in the FFR frame. The latch seems to be hitting the L of the frame not sitting flat. I'm just tired of doing modifications because FFR didn't do a good job designing this kit.
CU9DZ

I had this same problem - the L bracket for the latch is flat but the fiberglass between the latch and L bracket is curved. I fixed it by putting a slight bend in the end of the L bracket to better follow the contour of the fiberglass. I placed the L bracket into a vice and bent the end of it (with the slots for the latch) with a pair of channel locks.

[CU9DZ]

I haven't test fitted the fiberglass door skin in yet but did shave some metal off the inside edge of the donor latch. I will countersink the screw heads to fit better. The big question is how many people had to trim their latches and does FFR know about this problem ?

[Tamra]

We did not have this problem.

You are using the rear latches from the donor, correct?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

We did not have this problem.

You are using the rear latches from the donor, correct?

We had to trim ours down to make them fit correctly.
They were rears of a 2006 NA Impreza.
serial# 22
Bob

[CU9DZ]

Possibly FFR changed the design of the door frame slightly to move the here holes out a bit. My serial # is 224
DK

[CU9DZ]

Sorry. That last post should be " move the three holes out a bit"
DK
Also the latest updates from FFR show them removing the white plastic cover from the donor latch. This should make the latch fit better in the door frame.

[CU9DZ]

Does anyone have pictures of the door/front fender/windshield/hood area ? It seems like this is a very awkward spot to align correctly. Really need some kind of 360 auto cad view of everything but I might be expecting too much.
DK

[Hindsight]

Just now getting to this as I start fitting my body. Thanks for the great instructions with hardware pics and everything.

Question for you or anyone else: Are most of you fitting the doors before fitting the front end (fenders, bumper, hood)?

[metros]

^Agreed on both points.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Metros

[metros]

My post means that I'm at the same point and wondering the same thing. Don't want to mislead you in thinking I confirmed anything.

[Tamra]

The doors didn't seem too impacted by the alignment of the body since they have some adjustment options (so you can kind of fit the doors to where the rest of the body ends up). I would recommend setting up the front end first before doing the doors.

[Hindsight]

Ok thanks!

[insurance guy]

How were you able to tighten doors with fenders on??

[Tamra]

As long as your splash guards aren't in everything is accessible.

[Frank818]

The doors didn't seem too impacted by the alignment of the body since they have some adjustment options (so you can kind of fit the doors to where the rest of the body ends up). I would recommend setting up the front end first before doing the doors.

I thought the side sails would impact more the doors, as the striker is bolted on the side sail so depending where it fits it will affect where you cut the latch hole on the door body, no?

[Tamra]

I thought the side sails would impact more the doors, as the striker is bolted on the side sail so depending where it fits it will affect where you cut the latch hole on the door body, no?

Exactly, which is why you do the doors last. Hindsight was asking about fitting the doors first and I recommended against it.

[RM1SepEx]

Your molded inner door skins fit so much better than my fiberglass ones...

[metros]

This thread was really helpful today. I got the passenger side striker and door installed. Need to finish the driver side and fit the door panels tomorrow.

It took me the longest time to figure out the bracket behind the striker. The manual barely shows anything about it.

[07FIREBLADE]

What door edge trim did you guys end up using. Its not shown in any pics and there is no reference to it in the manual that I can find.

[RM1SepEx]

FFR sent me black vinyl edge molding. Can't use it, makes doors drag with the gaps that you need (paint stick) to get the doors to align.

[07FIREBLADE]

Darn. My doors are dragging without it and can't quite get them aligned. Need to trim my top a bit on the inside edge.