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Thread: Jazzman’s #8745 "Flip Top" Build

  1. #841
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Gorgeous color!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  2. #842
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    She's HOME!!

    Were you working Friday night at 10pm? I wasn't, though I did work until about 7:30. I had been told that my car would be delivered back to me Friday evening. Matt at the Kandy Shoppe had made special arrangements to have my car transported for me by the person he most trusts for the task. Unfortunately, this person already had a full slate of deliveries that day. However, true to his word, the truck rolled up at 9:30pm to deliver my car back to me! It had taken seven months to get the perfect paint job, but it was worth the wait! To be fair, one month of that was me putting the car together after the first phase of body work was done. I am absolutely thrilled with the result.









    The car had be driven on Friday morning, so I was perplexed when it would not start for me on saturday morning. While I feel somewhat foolish for the following story, I am actually pretty please that I know my car well enough to have figured out the issue. I have two electronic keyfobs that allow the car to start. One has been on my keyring for months, the other was with the car at the painters shop. The shop returned the "2nd" Keyfob to me when they returned the car. I put it away for safekeeping. When I went to start the car Saturday morning, the lights and gauges would come on, but absolutely nothing else would happen. No fuel pump sound, no engine turnover, nothing. After a few minutes of checking power switches and full pump security lockouts, I figured that if the car had run Friday with the "2nd" fob, and not on Saturday with the "1st" fob, the place to start is get the 2nd Fob!. Partial success: The engine would turn over, but there was no fuel pump sound and no fuel pressure. More searching, thinking and looking at schematics. I decided to check the fuel pump fuse to see if it was blown. I checked the RF wiring harness fuse panel. No, idiot, there is no fuel pump fuse on that panel because you have a Coyote engine. The Coyote PDB has all the engine control fuses. I found the fuel pump fuse, removed it, and . . . it was blown!! Yeah, I had figured it out. Blown fuse. That i know how to fix. I headed out to my local parts place (I wont mention them here, because I really hate going there!!) and bought the only two fuses of that size that they had. Why two you ask? Experience!! I wanted to have a backup in case the first one blew while I was driving somewhere. I took them home, put in the new fuse, turned the ignition and . . . still no fuel! Silencio! I checked the new fuse. It too is blown. Now I feel both smart for having bought a second fuse and stupid for having blown now two of them! Now what else could be causing this? A dead short in a power or ground wire. But where? What possibly has changed since the car was driven the day before? I had put on the side louvers, bolted on the hood scoop, installed the fuel cap assembly. None of them anywhere near any wiring. I had installed the windshield, and begun moving on to installing the roll bars . . . Wait . . . I installed the windshield . . . that is near the rollover switch . . . could that switch have been tripped? Nope, it is fine. But the windshield is near an awful lot of wires in the top of the DS footbox. Now I feel smart again because the top of the DS footbox can be removed for servicing. I removed the top again, and . . .



    the lower DS windshield bolt had tightened down on top of the power wire feeding the rollover switch which ultimately feeds power to the fuel pump. I loosened the bolt and moved the wire. I put in the one remaining fuse. The car fired right up! I checked the wire for damage. It was somewhat crushed, but did not appear to have had the insulation cut. I wrapped it in convolute tubing and then taped it up. It works just fine now.

    It is so very satisfying to know that I have learned so much and know my car so well that I was able to figure out this minor problem. Ok, it's not a very major issue in the grand scheme of all the systems in a car, but for me, this is real confirmation that I have achieved one of my goals: I have learned about how my car works! I have many of you to thank for this education!!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  3. #843
    She is just stunning. WOW
    MK4 # 9181 - Complete Kit - Levy Racing 408 EFI, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 2017-10-06
    Build Thread - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...499#post299499

  4. #844
    Looks great. Glad you got that sorted out. I texted yesterday and when I dint hear back I figured you must have been out working on it.
    Car looks awesome out in the sun. Post a pic of the flip top open when you get a chance.

    What is left on the list after the roll bars and front lights? Did you ever get your radio/amp issue worked out?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  5. #845
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    Really super job on the car! The color is just great. Yep, let's see the flip top!
    Congrats!
    1972 Corvette Stingray 350 c.i. Manual Steering & Brakes
    2003 H-D Softail Deuce 88 c.i. TwinCam
    Gen 3 Coupe Dreamer

  6. #846
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    What is left on the list after the roll bars and front lights? Did you ever get your radio/amp issue worked out?
    Not much. My goal is to get it licensed ASAP, so all work pushes in that direction. Here's the short list.

    1. Headlights and front turn signals
    2. Roll bars with integrated brake lights.
    3. install the Passengers seat
    4. do the license plate mod to fit the plate up into the bracket
    5. install the windwings, visors
    6. install the center rear view mirror.
    7. find out if I have to have side mirrors before I license the car. I plan to have them, but have not yet decided how/what I will install. I really don't want to drill a hole in that paint, and haven't yet decided what I want to attach to the windshield frams.
    8. Figure out why the turn signals don't currently flash
    9. Get a different flasher module for the emergency flashers

    I'm still making the list, but I think with those items done, I can get it licensed. The amp issue is not yet fixed, but I am ignoring it until after the car is licensed. Am I forgetting anything? Is there anything that I need to look out for in the license process?
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  7. #847
    Absolutely beautiful Kevin, congrats! For the sideview mirrors, I also was not keen on the idea of drilling into the freshly painted body so I went with the Breeze one and am very happy with it. http://breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=758

  8. #848
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalR80 View Post
    Absolutely beautiful Kevin, congrats! For the sideview mirrors, I also was not keen on the idea of drilling into the freshly painted body so I went with the Breeze one and am very happy with it. http://breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=758
    Funny that you should mention those. I was literally leaving Mark Reynolds a message about them when I noticed your post. I really like the look, and I was beginning to wonder how I would throw more money at this car! Thanks for helping!!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  9. #849
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Kevin,

    Your ride is so beautiful I can't stand it. I may have to ban you just to keep the rest of the group from feeling inadequate!

    Really man, it's a stunning ride. Major kudos!!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  10. #850
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Kevin,

    Your ride is so beautiful I can't stand it. I may have to ban you just to keep the rest of the group from feeling inadequate!

    Really man, it's a stunning ride. Major kudos!!

    You are so kind and generous!! I am really pleased with the result. Please know that your attention to detail and commitment to quality was one of my major inspirations!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  11. #851
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    You are so kind and generous!! I am really pleased with the result. Please know that your attention to detail and commitment to quality was one of my major inspirations!
    Thanks brother. Any chance you might bring it to HB next year?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  12. #852
    Kevin I have those Breeze mirrors also. I am quite pleased with the rear visibility they offer and the look. Another recommendation for those.
    Funny thing is I regularly hit the drivers side with my knee when I am getting out of the car and have to adjust it. Never thought I would own a car that hitting the mirror with my knee on exit would be an issue! haha
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  13. #853
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Nice job working out the pinched wire. These cars will let you feel proud of your accomplishments for a moment and then make you feel stupid in an instant.

    I'll wait for the finished photos to shower you with compliments.... but, Damn....
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  14. #854
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Thanks brother. Any chance you might bring it to HB next year?

    Not a chance . . . an absolute lock guarantee I will be there!! I will not let rain, nor sleet, nor kidney stones will keep me from that party! Put me down for a parking space for my truck and trailer! I have looked forward to this event for three years. I can't wait!!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  15. #855
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Kevin I have those Breeze mirrors also. I am quite pleased with the rear visibility they offer and the look. Another recommendation for those.
    Funny thing is I regularly hit the drivers side with my knee when I am getting out of the car and have to adjust it. Never thought I would own a car that hitting the mirror with my knee on exit would be an issue! haha
    Spoke to Mark about an hour ago. He will send them out as soon as they are made. They are being milled right now. He hopes that they can go out by Thursday. I hope so too! I can't get this thing registered without them.
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  16. #856
    I'm with David for having you banned from Huntington Beach! Or, at least I don't want to park next to the gorgeous red flip-top!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  17. #857
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    I'm with David for having you banned from Huntington Beach! Or, at least I don't want to park next to the gorgeous red flip-top!
    All kidding aside I think we know who the front runner for Best Roadster is!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  18. #858
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Dave, he's already got my vote . . . I really want to see this car up close and personal. What an AWESOME example of craftsmanship and attention to detail. Jazzman, you da man . . . !

    See ya next year at the "Pre-HB BBQ and HB.

    Doc
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  19. #859
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    Beautiful car. I love that color. I’m starting in on your thread. Detail is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to post in detail for those of us just starting.

  20. #860
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Thank you Mark Reynolds of Breeze Automotive. I ordered a pair of his billet mirrors on monday. He knows I am trying to get the Roadster done and registered. He told me that the mirrors were being manufactured right now, but he would do his best to get them to me as soon as he could. They just arrived, and look fabulous! I can't wait to get out of the office and install them!!! Thank you Mark for your incredible service.
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  21. #861
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Rather Productive couple of days. Began with the license plate. Did the full Jeff Kleiner License Plate mod (Thank you Jeff!!) but still needed to get a bit more space. Decided to notch the plate at the top as well as the bottom. Also decided not to do the full plate mod and install until I actually license the car. I am not sure how understanding Arizona might be on such things. I didn't put the LED light bulbs in. Forgot to order them. That is easy to do later.







    Intalled Breeze's side mirrors. Easy Peasy!





    Installed the center mirror on the top of the windshield. I found I had to jam a piece of bailing wire inside the slot to lock the nut in place while the screws were tightened.





    Installed the sun visors per FFR's instructions. The checklist is getting shorter.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 11-19-2017 at 12:55 AM.
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  22. #862
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Headlights are next. I am using the Watson's streetworks LED headlights. Great lights, excellent illumination. There is one serious challenge: The light bulb power cord has a permanently attached box that doesn't fit through the 5/8" hole in the headlight bucket. I considered a number of options for how and where to get the box through the bucket, and decided to cut a slot directly forward on the bucket from the hole. I left the flap attached at the front of the bucket, then pushed the box through the hole, closed the flap and secured it with very heavy tape and the rubber grommet that protects the wire from the edge of the hole.



    Next I took a page out of the great EdwardB's book of tricks. I made mounting plates to attach to the outside back of the bucket that would then have the power box attached. The three holes in the center in a triangle pattern are the holes i used to rivet the plate to the back of the bucked. (Probably overkill, but it's secure!) The two outside holes are to attach the little black box.





    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  23. #863
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Roll bars are next. Actually only the DS bar thus far. This was a real chore. Put the bar on, then discovered that the gaskets that came with the trim rings have an opening that is way too big. I think they must have been designed for the old 2" roll bars. Here's the result:



    I went looking for gasket material, but Ace didn't have it. I found something that I made work at Home Depot. If you have ever installed a new shower pan, you may have used a thick rubber gasket material to protect your floor and walls from leakage. This stuff is grey, and I was initally concerned that it wasn't black, but it really came out OK. You see very little of it anyway. I started by cutting out the exterior shape using the trim rings as a template. Then I used a smaller washer to cut out a smaller inside hole.







    On the oval shaped rear leg trim rings, I had to trim the new gasket a couple of times, creating a somewhat off center oval hole. A bit of final triming, and they all fit very nicely.

    Before I installed the roll bar for the final time, I installed the LED lights that were milled into the top of the bar. I won't go into how it is done, but it is not hard, but somewhat tricky. Long story short, I got it done. After the bar was installed, I wired in the connecting wires into the taillight wiring. The result is . . . extremely cool!!



    I installed the rear inner panel that acts as a mud flap. It took a bit of finagling to get it in the right place, but it's solid now. It really stabilizes the lower rear of the body behind the rear wheel very nicely. After checking over all the bolts I could see and reach, I put the rear wheel back on.

    Before installing the rear wheel, I put the spinner in from the back side, and it tightened up very nicely. I was pretty proud of my self! Pride, however, always comes before a fall. I took the front wheel off to install the spinner while the DS of the car was in the air. When I opened the box for the second spinner, I discovered that there are cover pieces to cover the actual lug nuts to make it look like these are real knockoffs. All four of them were in one box! Opps! I didn't install the cover on the rear wheel. Oh well, I shouldn't be hard to take off the spinner and install the little cover right? I checked everything on the front suspension, and then put the front wheel back on.



    Back to the rear wheel. I loosened the small set screw that allows the Spinner to turn on the threads of the mounding unit. I turned the spinner (Clockwise because the Left side spinners are reverse threaded) and . . . the center boss just spins with the spinner. I can't seem to get this off. I can get the rear wheel off without removing the spinner, but now I am worried about whether I can get the front wheel off. The nuts are now covered. I haven't tried it yet. That's a "tomorrow" project. I had seen several builders installing set screws in the wheels, but when I saw the setscrew already in the spinner, I assumed that FFR had fixed this problem. Well we all know what happens when you assume . . .

    I'm tired. Its been a productive day. I'm going to bed!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  24. #864
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Installed the center mirror on the top of the windshield. I found I had to jam a piece of bailing wire inside the slot to lock the nut in place while the screws were tightened.
    Bailing wire? I guess it does have a Ford heritage

    You're going to have a nice ride. And maybe add a little antiseize compound to those spinners if you ever want to get them off later. I didn't use the set screws there for fear of distorting the threads thus preventing them from freely turning as they unscrew.
    Last edited by 2bking; 11-19-2017 at 04:00 AM.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  25. #865
    Glad to see the progress Kevin. Looking great. Those brake likes in the roll bar are really cool.

    Good work on the roll bar gasket trim ring gasket. Just a thought - Is it possible they sent you the wrong trim ring and not the wrong gasket? Do they possibly make a trim ring that hugs the bar diameter tighter? Maybe if they do those would come with the proper gaskets as well.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  26. #866
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Looks awesome! Can't wait to see the final grad pics.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017.

  27. #867
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Great progress. You're getting there! I recall from earlier in your build thread that you're using the Breeze 1-3/4 inch roll bars, right? Russ Thompson is the only source I know of for roll bar trim rings specifically made for that size. Is that what you have? I use his on #7750, and the gaskets he provided fit OK. I've found putting a small notch in the top of the license plate is required even with the mod. It's completely hidden when the plate is installed, so I can't imagine your local LE would have an issue with that. With the mod and the notch at the top, I haven't found it necessary to notch the bottom of the license plate around the trunk handle. Just fits. As 2bking said, put some anti-seize on those spinners, as a minimum. Unfortunately, they sometimes still get jammed up on the adapters. Some guys glue in the adapters (silicone, etc.) or resort to more positive measures like set screws through the wheels. That's what I've done. The set screw in the spinner is only intended to keep the spinner from coming off. If installed the right direction it's pretty unlikely they'll come off if properly tightened. The right hand thread goes on the left side of the car, and the left hand thread goes on the right side of the car. When you go to tighten the spinner, the top should turn towards the back of the car (drivers side clockwise, passenger side counter clockwise). I leave the spinner set screw in, but tighten in very lightly. Not enough to damage the threads. It could just as easily be left out as some recommend.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-19-2017 at 08:29 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  28. #868


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Coming along nicely Kevin!

    RE: Spinners; I drill and tap for one 8-32 setscrew per wheel. After inserting the center snug the setscrew against it and it will prevent it from moving while installing/removing the lug cover and spinner.



    I use a bit of anti-seize on the threads and ditch the spinner setscrews for exactly the reason King mentioned---thread distortion that can make them difficult to remove. No worries about them coming loose; with the LH/RH threads they tighten with forward motion..........oh wait, maybe I should take that back..........if you do a lot of reversing at high speeds they could come loose............do you plan to regularly exceed 60 MPH backing out of your driveway?.........if not you should be OK

    Cheers,
    Jeff

    EDIT: I see Paul wrote pretty much the same thing while I was digging up the photo (well, except for the high speed backing up warning) so yeah, what he said!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  29. #869
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    If installed the right direction it's pretty unlikely they'll come off if properly tightened. The right hand thread goes on the left side of the car, and the left hand thread goes on the right side of the car.
    Don't do it wrong! I was racing around Goodwood in UK 25 years ago and had a wheel come off under braking, that took off at 60mph across the infield, over the track and leaped the fence. Turns out the tyre guys who just balanced put all the wheels (that had spinner adapters) on wrong side.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
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  30. #870
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Glad to see the progress Kevin. Looking great. Those brake likes in the roll bar are really cool.

    Good work on the roll bar gasket trim ring gasket. Just a thought - Is it possible they sent you the wrong trim ring and not the wrong gasket? Do they possibly make a trim ring that hugs the bar diameter tighter? Maybe if they do those would come with the proper gaskets as well.
    You know, that is possible I guess, but since they are already in, the holes are all drilled, I guess I will stay with them as they are. I don't remember having an alternative, but for those that decide to use these in the future, it might be worth asking.
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  31. #871
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Coming along nicely Kevin!

    RE: Spinners; I drill and tap for one 8-32 setscrew per wheel. After inserting the center snug the setscrew against it and it will prevent it from moving while installing/removing the lug cover and spinner.



    I use a bit of anti-seize on the threads and ditch the spinner setscrews for exactly the reason King mentioned---thread distortion that can make them difficult to remove. No worries about them coming loose; with the LH/RH threads they tighten with forward motion..........oh wait, maybe I should take that back..........if you do a lot of reversing at high speeds they could come loose............do you plan to regularly exceed 60 MPH backing out of your driveway?.........if not you should be OK

    Cheers,
    Jeff

    Yes, not using the installed set screw in the spinner so as not to damage the threads is extremely good counsel. Too bad I didn't think of it before I tightened that set screw. Any suggestions on how to hold the center in place now that the threads are likely damaged? I am can't get the spinner off, and can't tighten it either. I hope you recognize by now that I am a big FFR fan, but this is a pretty big oversight. Why did they put a set screw in the spinner if a) it wasn't really needed and b) it damages the threads to the point that you can't get the spinner off?!!! I really don't know how I will get the spinners off now. I have a couple of ideas, but they are pretty drastic, involving holes in the center pieces and bolts to hold them in place while I get the spinners off. I hope I don't have to go there. Wish me luck and send ideas if you've got them. Thanks!!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  32. #872
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    The right hand thread goes on the left side of the car, and the left hand thread goes on the right side of the car. When you go to tighten the spinner, the top should turn towards the back of the car (drivers side clockwise, passenger side counter clockwise). I leave the spinner set screw in, but tighten in very lightly. Not enough to damage the threads. It could just as easily be left out as some recommend.
    I just want to make sure I have this right because I think I even have the wrong set of spinners on the DS. The right hand threads (the normal ones from my perspective) go on the DS of the car, and the left hand threads (the "wrong" way threads) go on the PS. Do I have this right? If I do, I do indeed have the wrong spinners on the DS. Silly me, I followed the instruction on the box that said "Left".
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  33. #873
    Dont even need to think of it so much as left and right. Just make sure when you are tightening you are rotating them towards the rear of the vehicle.
    I initially tightened my set screws in my spinners down hard because I did not know any better either. When I took them off there was no thread damage. Hopefully yours will not be damaged and you can get the wheel off easy!

    Funny on this project how seemingly simple tasks can become such a pain and things you were dreading for their complexity work out quite easily sometimes!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  34. #874
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Yes, not using the installed set screw in the spinner so as not to damage the threads is extremely good counsel. Too bad I didn't think of it before I tightened that set screw. Any suggestions on how to hold the center in place now that the threads are likely damaged? I am can't get the spinner off, and can't tighten it either. I hope you recognize by now that I am a big FFR fan, but this is a pretty big oversight. Why did they put a set screw in the spinner if a) it wasn't really needed and b) it damages the threads to the point that you can't get the spinner off?!!! I really don't know how I will get the spinners off now. I have a couple of ideas, but they are pretty drastic, involving holes in the center pieces and bolts to hold them in place while I get the spinners off. I hope I don't have to go there. Wish me luck and send ideas if you've got them. Thanks!!
    Of course it's possible, but I really doubt you damaged the threads with the set screws enough to cause the problem you're having with them coming off. If left dry (sounds like what you did) they unfortunately gall and seize pretty easily. Even then I've found the can be a pretty tight fit, e.g. not very precise. Leave the set screws out if you like. Or if you use them just slightly snug them. At that point, perhaps they aren't really doing anything. But I don't like leaving them off. That's just me. Here are a couple threads where guys talked about getting them off once stuck. There are more. Good luck!

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...nut-stuck.html

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...stuck-hub.html

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    I just want to make sure I have this right because I think I even have the wrong set of spinners on the DS. The right hand threads (the normal ones from my perspective) go on the DS of the car, and the left hand threads (the "wrong" way threads) go on the PS. Do I have this right? If I do, I do indeed have the wrong spinners on the DS. Silly me, I followed the instruction on the box that said "Left".
    The "left" designation on the box is that they have left hand threads (vs. "normal" right hand threads). But they go on the right hand side. Yea, confusing I guess...
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-19-2017 at 11:21 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  35. #875
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Slow, semi productive day today. I found that the front spinner came off with no drama. I took off the wheel, removed the threaded mounting cup, and put the front wheel back on. the threads are a bit deformed, but not enough to cause problems. I used a fine file to clean up the bent threads. I will deal with that spinner problem later.



    My luck did not continue. The rear spinner would not come loose. Because I did not have the lug nut trip piece installed, I was able to reach the lug nuts and take off the rear wheel. This gave me access to both sides of the spinner. I tried jamming a screwdriver in from the back to lock the threaded mounting lug in place. No dice, I just spun around with the spinner. One of EdwardB's suggestions was to put ice on the inside of the threaded cup to get it good and cold, then heat the spinner on the outside. The theory is that items that are cold contract, and items that are hot expand. I don't argue the science, but it didn't break the parts loose. I had exhausted all options. It was time to get serious!

    Here is what worked, but I have to tell you that this is not the recommended method. The reason is real simple: there is no return from this one. I drilled a big hole in the middle of the threaded cup. I ran a large bolt then a lock washer on the back side through the hole in the cup, then another lock washer, then two nuts to lock against each other. Then I was able to hold the cup in place with a deep socket on the two stacked nuts while turning the spinner. Once it broke free, it unscrewed surprisingly easily. Good news: I am back at scratch. Bad news: I have to see if I can get a new cup from FFR. Frustrating!!



    Threads also had a little damage from the setscrew, but not a lot. I still cannot figure out exactly what bound it up so securely. Gotta get me some of that anti seize!!



    Moved on to the PS roll bar. I removed the PS rear wheel. Then I ran the wiring for the LED lights in the roll bars. I must be getting better at it, it took a bit less time than the first time. I am ready to put the roll bar in. I have everything in place, trim rings, gaskets, wiring, I'm good to go. With a bit of help from the whole family, caaaaarefully slid the bar through the holes. The front two are plenty big, no problem, the rear is just long enough at the back to let the bar slide into the trunk area. It looks like it is going to go in with no drama when . . . The front legs are too far apart! I can't quite figure it out. It fit before the bars were polished, before the body was painted. What would be strong enough to bend the bars apart by about 1/4". Heat from the polishing? Wouldn't think so. Oh well, gotta bend the bars just a bit. I pulled out a bar clamp, wrapped the ends of the roll bars with soft clothes and compressed the bars together from 14" wide to 13.25" apart. When I let the pressure from the clamp off, the bars bounced back to 13.75". I hoped that this would be enough. We put the bar back in, and the bars were close, but still not quite close enough. With many helping hands, we bent the bar just in time for my son to pound it down onto the mounting pipes. (The top of the bar was wrapped with a microfibre cloth, then a board was placed on top of the cloth, and my son struck the wood. No roll bars were injured in the installation process!) We carefully tapped down the bar until it was close to the right height for the rear bar to slide into place on the rear mounting pipe. We are very close, but not close enough. The rear bar hits the body before it can slide low enough to be fully attached.



    We checked eleven way to sunday to see if the bars were at the right height. My wife said it was close enough, but the PS bar is still about .25" too high. I can see it. It will drive me nuts. I am going to have to try to get that bar back out, and have no idea exactly how I will do it! I am going to have to find a way to pound it back out without damaging the painted body. This should be fun!! I think that is going to have to wait till next weekend.

    I am still pointing toward registering the car on Wednesday. The last major hurdle that I have to cross is to figure out why the turn signals aren't working. I have already checked the easy solution: The fuse is in good shape. It seems that the Russ Thompson turn signal system has frozen in place. The turn signals don't work, the flashers don't work, and the headlights are stuck in high beam. I am pretty sure the flashers don't work partially because I still have the FFR flasher unit in the fuse panel. I replaced the turn signal unit with a solid state unit, but I didn't realize that I would need a second one for the hazard flashers. I will need to order one of those. But I still can't figure where the problem might be for the turn signals. I hope I can figure that out before I try to register the car, or I hope the inspector won't test them! (Not likely!!) Could the flasher unit have burned out when I created the dead short that fried the fuel pump fuse? The last time I tried them, they worked, but that was months ago now!! I haven't check the fuses in the Coyote PDB fuse box. Wouldn't expect it there, but I guess it it worth a shot. Got any ideas?
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  36. #876
    Jazzman, great job. Take an air hose ans spray all that block sanding dust out of the fuse panel. It might have clogged something up. Also get yourself a test light with a spring in it. I got mine from sears, craftsman brand. Stick a 12 volt garage door/remote control battery inside it and make it a 12 volt tester/power supply. Then hit each wire with it to light up the appropriate lights. I provided a picture of the one I made.

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  37. #877
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    you are definitely having your share of frustrations on final assembly. I'm sure that you will conquer all. I just keep going back to the final pictures and staring at it. What a beautiful color and car in whole!! What lights did you use for the roll bar 3rd brake? I am planning something similar.

  38. #878
    Maybe the inspector won't notice the turn signals and you can work that out later. My inspector was so enamored with the car he essentially looked at nothing. Just drive up with the lights on and he will see they work, then get out real quick and use the Jedi mind trick!
    Good luck with the roll bars. That is no fun getting to the base of those things crawling in the small trunk with the body on. Is the other side permanently attached already? Is moving the other one up 1/4" an easier option?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  39. #879
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Your pictures of the spinner adapters does make it look like you dinged the threads some with the set screws. But then you describe it spun off easily after initially coming loose. So could have just been the usual way they can get stuck when assembled dry. Too bad you had to tear up the one to get it off. Not the first I've heard that story though. Won't be the first time FF hears it either. Hopefully they will work with you on a replacement.

    I had similar issues getting my Breeze roll bar to sit down all the way on #7750. With only one though I wasn't too worried about symmetry. The three rigid legs makes alignment pretty critical. Hard to explain why they're different now versus when mocked up. But I found to "adjust" mine I had to bend them way past the expected amount of movement for it to be permanent. I used a bar clamp to squeeze them together, and a floor jack to squeeze them apart.

    For the electrical gremlins, what you're describing has nothing to do with the Coyote PDB. No lighting circuits there or anything that would affect them. When you say the headlights are stuck on high beam, I assume that means when you turn them on they won't switch back and forth between low and high beam (as opposed to being always on regardless of headlight switch position). The headlights and turn/hazards are completely separate circuits. So in theory the problem shouldn't be related. But if you're using the RT turn signal assembly to also switch the low/high beam with the momentary button, the the RT turn signal could be the common denominator. Good luck figuring it out.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  40. #880
    Kevin. the AZ DMV Inspector doesn't care about any lights. The inspection is for stolen parts, not silly little things like lights, brakes, seat belts or a windshield.
    I suggest you bring a Band-Aid for when the Inspector's chin hits the floor over your flip-top paint job.
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    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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