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Thread: Jazzman’s #8745 "Flip Top" Build

  1. #361
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Ok, I give up. How do you get this thing off?!!!

    Note the hex shape in the oil filter threaded adapter in the center? Turn that puppy and the whole assembly will come off, exposing the "normal" oil filter mating surface on the block. I didn't have anything that fit the hex, so jammed two nuts on a bolt, ground them slightly so they fit, and it turned right off. You will need a new short adapter AL3Z-6890-A to replace the long one holding on the oil cooler. Used the same cobbled together tool to install the new adapter. One of little details not in the new FF installation instructions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    While waiting for a myriad of engine parts to arrive from Summit, I am working on the items I have on hand. First up, engine mounts. On page 23 of the most recent Coyote Engine Installation Instructions from FFR, they reference several 1/2" thick engine mount spacers, #16249, #16250, and #16251. These appear in the drawings to be 1/2" thick pieces of solid steel. Maybe it is because it is after midnight, but I don't ever remember seeing any parts even close to those shapes, and I think I would remember pieces of 1/2" thick solid steel, even if only due to the weight. I rechecked my inventory, and I couldn't even find these parts listed. Does anyone know what box they should have been in, or what else they would have been packed with? I know EdwardB used a Whitby 3/8" spacer, and I am not sure if the spacer he references is for the same purpose. I think so. I may have to contact FFR on Monday.
    I originally used the Whitby spacers on top of the chassis motor mounts. But noticed the same 1/2-inch steel spacers that FF designed to fit inside the motor mounts in the new Coyote installation instructions. Decided to give them a try. Ordered in July and received in August. They had just been designed and released to production. They weren't available when I ordered my kit, and I suspect only included in very recent deliveries with the Coyote installation option. I think they're a big improvement over the external spacers, and the added thickness makes the engine fit even better. I recommend them.

    Parts as received. I cleaned them up and hit with some chassis matching paint.


    Installed. I did mine after the fact by raising the engine just enough to get the motor mounts in/out. Obviously would be much easier to put them in from the start. This was a fairly recent update in my build thread.


    Last edited by edwardb; 09-24-2016 at 06:12 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  2. #362
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Finally a beautiful weekend! This is the first weekend that you can really feel the cool fall breezes in the air. Fall and Spring are why we endure the ovens of summer to live here. So what did I do to get out and enjoy this gorgeous weather? I headed for the shop . . . to get my tools to address the long delayed project of replacing the pool pump with a new energy efficient variable speed pump!



    That thing took about 70% of my weekend, but long story short, its done and works great. But that's a story for another forum.

    In between working on the pool and my tan, I made some fun progress on the Roadster. I began by taking EdwardB's suggestion and found an alternate tool for removing the tube that holds the oil cooler on the engine. In my case, I found a grade 8, 5/16" bolt that had just the right head size to fit snugly inside the oil cooler retaining tube. I put the bolt in head first, and gave it a couple of taps with a hammer to be sure the head of the bolt was well seated in the hexagonal area of the tube.



    I attached a pair of vice-grips to the shaft of the bolt to use as a handle.



    Just a little pressure on the vice grip handle, and the retaining tube began rotating easily. I was able to remove it most of the way by hand. Here is what You end up with:



    My kit came with the oil relocation kit. It did not, however, come with the threaded nipple that would attach the engine end of the relocation kit to the standard oil filter location. I haven't decided if I am going to use it. It looks nice. Any thoughts on the subject?

    I turned my attention to the engine and transmission mounts. By reviewing the other forum posts on the subject (mostly EdwardB's) I quickly determined the location and the parts needed. I found that my kit did not come with the engine mount spacers that FFR is now including in the coyote fitment package. I will have to call them on Monday and order a set. I temporarily mounted the engine mounts in place just to get them in the area, then moved on to the transmission. This is the first time I have had the Tremec TKO-600 out of the box. It weighs a good bit and seem to be well built. Apparently when they rebuilt the tranny for "strength and smoothness" they had to reseal the access ports on the top. There is now very gooey, bright red sealer squeezed out of the seams. Whatever that stuff is, I'll bet it keeps the tranny well sealed! The rear mounting holes were already cut off for me by the place that prepared the TKO for me. I put the rear tranny mount together and bolted it into place.





    I removed the black plastic plug just forward of the tranny mount on the left side of the tranny case. I had been given a free plug for this hole, and quickly installed it. The bolt that will keep that plug in place was a bit long, but I quickly shortened it on the grinder. A bit of blue Loctite, and that thing is going nowhere.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-25-2016 at 10:56 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  3. #363
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Alternator Installation

    I ordered parts from Summit on Friday afternoon. Today (Sunday) a very heavy box arrived with most of the parts! That's amazing service! I had ordered an alternator, clutch, starter, assorted bolts, Throw-out bearing fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge, and Heidts valve. I got right to work on the alternator. It was rather straight forward except that the neglected to include the top stud mounting nut. I will go buy another one as soon as I figure out what size it is. I am pretty sure it is metric (everything else is!).



    Next is the belt tensioner and the idler pulley. The replacement idler pulley that comes in the package with the alternator is a nice upgrade over the one that is already on the engine. The replacement part is steel, the original is plastic. I trust steel. A bit of blue Loctite on the bolt threads, and that part is done. The tensioner must be installed with the nub on the back in the hole on the engine block that is shaped to receive it. It won't go on any other way and look like it makes any sense.



    Installing the serpentine accessory belt (I still want to call it a fan belt, but that is very old-school!) stumped me a bit, but with the help of a friend on the forum, I was able to discover the secret of installing the belt. I used a long handled socket to push down / move the tensioner backward to provide slack in the belt to get it around all the other pulleys.



    The tensioner pulley holds the entire system in place. It all looks good to me.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  4. #364
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Clutch intstallation on a Coyote Motor: Part 1 of 3

    I add this detailed explanation for two reasons. First I hope it will help someone considering this project, and second, I would really appreciate those of you that have done this before to review and critique the work that I have done. This is the first time I have installed a clutch, and the directions from all sources are sketchy at best. The FFR "Coyote Installation Manual assumes you already have knowledge of assembling your engine. They only add information you would not expect. So for the newbie like me, this is a very exciting, but also very intimidating part of the build process. I found that this YouTube video was very helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4lvz9l69yk

    Keep in mind that this information applies to the installation of a Ford/Centerforce clutch specified in the FFR Coyote installation instructions. I will start with a photo of where the engine sits before I do anything in the area of the flywheel.



    I do this mostly so you will notice the yellow paint mark on the flywheel about the 5 o'clock position. This mark caused me no end of research and confusion, but in the end may not have amounted to much in my specific installation.

    The first step is to install the "backing plate" beneath the flywheel. To do this, you have to remove the flywheel. First the bolts have to come out. I couldn't break them loose with even my longest socket handle because the flywheel will spin and turn the crank. After trying unsuccessfully to remove the bolts with a regular socket set, I went to Home depot to buy an impact wrench. Boy did this tool do a great job getting those bolts out! Less than a second each, and all eight of them came right out. Surprisingly the bolts had no thread lock of any kind on them. They will by the time It is reinstalled.



    The flywheel will now come off. It takes a bit of wiggling to get it to start moving, but then it comes away. Set it down on the bench, you will need it in just a minute. Here is what it looks like with the flywheel removed:



    The backing plate that came with the QuickTime bell housing gets hung on the two alignment posts at 10 and 2 on the rear of the engine block.



    Check that all the holes line up with the holes in the block, but It doesn't appear that you can put the plate on any other way.

    Return to the flywheel. Those alignment dowel pins that are already installed into the flywheel have to come out and be replaced. To be sure I got the new pins back in the same place, I made a small mark with a sharpie pen next to each dowel pin. A sledge hammer and a punch will drive them out. It does take a pretty good amount of pressure to drive them out, but they do come out.



    The replacement dowel pins come in the Clutch installation Bolt set that you have to order along with the clutch. There are actually two sets of replacement dowel pins. THe narrow straight set are not used and can be discarded. The set you are looking for is the set that is larger on the bottom, and then notches in to be narrower at the top. Find these pins, and drive the wider bottom section into the holes that the original dowel pins were in. Drive them in just enough that the notch where the diameter reduces is right at the surface of the flywheel.



    just to be sure they are in the right place, I took the clutch plate unit and set it over the flywheel and aligned it on the new dowel pins. I did not put any pressure on it because I still have to reinstall the flywheel on the crank.

    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-26-2016 at 12:40 AM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  5. #365
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Clutch installation Part 2 of 3:

    In the previous photo, you can see again the yellow mark on the teeth of the flywheel. In the limited information I could find online, That yellow mark is supposed to be lined up with a corresponding mark on the Clutch disc, and correspond to a similar mark on the clutch pressure plate itself. Unfortunately, I could not find any such marks on either of the other pieces. I searched and searched, but I could find nothing to give me an indication of which way the clutch housing itself should be installed. I tried it all three ways that it could fit over the pins, and it fit perfectly each way. I decided that it must not make any difference.

    Before installing the clutch plate, I had to reinstall the flywheel. I am not sure if that yellow mark on the flywheel has meaning, but I decided to put it back on in exactly the same place as it was before it was taken off. This is significantly easier because of the way the attaching bolts are offset. I put the yellow mark in the same area that it had come from, then turned the flywheel slightly to line up all the holes. When it was wrong only one of the holes would line up. As soon as it was right, all eight holes lined up perfectly. I put some blue Loctite on each bolt then hand threaded them in to be sure they were in smoothly. I'm not sure, but I think this may be "Kevin Proof"! I had to search to find the right torque specifications for these bolts. It was no where near as high as I had suspected. It is "177 INCH pounds plus 60 degrees". I found this on this forum as well as "that other one that shall not be mentioned!!. Now what knucklehead gives such a confusing specification! 177 INCH pounds is 14.74999 Foot pounds. The "plus 60 degrees" part can't be converted to Foot pounds. Further research showed that it equated to approximately 18 foot pounds of torque. This is what I used to torque each bolt.



    The next step is to install the clutch disk. This requires a tool I was not aware of. When I ordered my clutch, I should have ordered a clutch disc centering tool #50048. This little plastic piece is inserted into the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel and keeps the disc centered while you install and tighten the clutch pressure plate. Well, I didn't order it. Since patience has never been one of my virtues, I decided to improvise. I needed something cylindrical that would fit snuggly inside the pilot bearing, and somethingelse that would fit over the first item to keep the larger center hole on the clutch disc centered. I had lots of graduated cylindars in my socket set, so I first found a 10mm deep socket that fit snugly inside the pilot bearing.





    Then I found a 3/4" standard socket that fit snuggly inside the center hole of the clutch plate.



    To keep the two centered on each other, I found the 10mm hex head socket that fits right into the 10mm deep socket. By inserting it through the center of the 3/4" socket, it keeps all of them in line.



    It looks a bit goofy, but it works! I place the clutch disk, flywheel side in, over this centering stack of sockets.





    I think my improvised clutch disc centering tool worked, but I would suggest you buy the right tool when you are ordering the clutch itself. It certainly would have been easier.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-26-2016 at 12:59 AM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  6. #366
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Clutch installation Part 3 of 3:

    I hung the clutch pressure plate on the dowel pins installed in part one. They lined up perfectly.



    The clutch to Flywheel mounting bolts that came with the clutch mounting bolt set already have some sort of thread locker on them:



    I hand threaded each of the six bolts into their corresponding holes. Each one lined up perfectly. To hold the clutch disk in the center off the plate, I added a socket extension to the end of the centering stack of sockets. My beautiful assistant held this "handle" to keep the disc centered while I torqued down the bolts. I torqued them in a chris-cross pattern in two stages, ultimately tightening them to 18 foot pounds of torque each. I did remember to remove the stack of sockets from the middle of the pilot bushing. Just like the disc centering tool would have done, my stack of sockets slid right out. Time will tell if my improvised centering device will be adequate to allow the shaft of the transmission to slide in smoothly.

    I have a clutch fork on order. It is not here yet, and I fear it may be the wrong one. Because of this, I decided that this was a good place to stop for the night. I also know this long series of posts and photos would take me a while to write. So that's it for this weekend.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  7. #367
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Last night very late, or perhaps this morning very early, I had time to just stand and think about the coyote wiring harness and the computer location. For most Coyote builds, the location that FFR is suggesting is fine: mounted outboard between the upper and lower 3/4" frame rails. It is handy, mostly hidden by the body, and generally out of the way. However, on a flip top build such as mine, this area will be extremely visible, being right where the best view of the engine will be when you open the hood. I had considered trying to mount the computer flat on the top of the PS foot box, but the cable coming from the engine to the computer is too short to make this work. (I toyed briefly with trying to extend the cable, then I saw how complex it was!! Nope, I'm out!) Since I will not have hood hinges in the traditional locations, It frees up quite a bit of real estate to work with. It seems that most people using power steering are mounting the overflow tank on the inside of the PS "F" panel. However, I think I will mount it on to one side or the other of the coolant reservoir on some sort of a custom made mounting rail parallel to but above the frame "X" member. This frees up the inside of the PS "F" panel. If I mount the computer on the inside of the "F" panel, it appears that all the lines will still be long enough to reach their intended locations.



    I can route the computer main cable along the lower 3/4" frame rail. I can even route the long line for the alternator and other items that goes around the back of the engine to the DS, and instead run it back up the lower 3/4" frame rail, into the area behind dash, then around to the DS where it will come out through a new cable exit location as yet to be determined. This will keep it mostly out of sight.





    Does anyone know if I open up the main cable to the computer, will the wires from this long line actually start at the computer, or back at the fuse box? If they start at the fuse box, I should be able to peel them out of the main cable group, and pull them off just where the main cable turns to go forward. It would be a bit more clean.

    I have also considered running these same cables along the underside of the upper 3/4" frame rail to keep them further away from the heat of the headers. Both will work, trying to figure out what will be the most aesthetically pleasing.

    Any thoughts from those of you that have completed the coyote wiring? I am trying to hide as much wiring as possible, but that is even more difficult when you open up the entire front end!!
    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-26-2016 at 02:04 AM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  8. #368
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Finally a beautiful weekend! This is the first weekend that you can really feel the cool fall breezes in the air. Fall and Spring are why we endure the ovens of summer to live here. So what did I do to get out and enjoy this gorgeous weather? I headed for the shop . . . to get my tools to address the long delayed project of replacing the pool pump with a new energy efficient variable speed pump!



    That thing took about 70% of my weekend, but long story short, its done and works great. But that's a story for another forum.

    In between working on the pool and my tan, I made some fun progress on the Roadster. I began by taking EdwardB's suggestion and found an alternate tool for removing the tube that holds the oil cooler on the engine. In my case, I found a grade 8, 5/16" bolt that had just the right head size to fit snugly inside the oil cooler retaining tube. I put the bolt in head first, and gave it a couple of taps with a hammer to be sure the head of the bolt was well seated in the hexagonal area of the tube.



    I attached a pair of vice-grips to the shaft of the bolt to use as a handle.



    Just a little pressure on the vice grip handle, and the retaining tube began rotating easily. I was able to remove it most of the way by hand. Here is what You end up with:



    My kit came with the oil relocation kit. It did not, however, come with the threaded nipple that would attach the engine end of the relocation kit to the standard oil filter location. I haven't decided if I am going to use it. It looks nice. Any thoughts on the subject?

    I turned my attention to the engine and transmission mounts. By reviewing the other forum posts on the subject (mostly EdwardB's) I quickly determined the location and the parts needed. I found that my kit did not come with the engine mount spacers that FFR is now including in the coyote fitment package. I will have to call them on Monday and order a set. I temporarily mounted the engine mounts in place just to get them in the area, then moved on to the transmission. This is the first time I have had the Tremec TKO-600 out of the box. It weighs a good bit and seem to be well built. Apparently when they rebuilt the tranny for "strength and smoothness" they had to reseal the access ports on the top. There is now very gooey, bright red sealer squeezed out of the seams. Whatever that stuff is, I'll bet it keeps the tranny well sealed! The rear mounting holes were already cut off for me by the place that prepared the TKO for me. I put the rear tranny mount together and bolted it into place.





    I removed the black plastic plug just forward of the tranny mount on the left side of the tranny case. I had been given a free plug for this hole, and quickly installed it. The bolt that will keep that plug in place was a bit long, but I quickly shortened it on the grinder. A bit of blue Loctite, and that thing is going nowhere.
    I would not use the oil filter relocation kit simply because it takes up space that could be used for something else and the filter fits just fine where it goes. Plus less joints to potentially leak. You will need to order the nipple that goes between the block and oil filter.

    On the transmission mount you might want to go ahead and get some spacers made up for that. Following Paul's lead I used 3/4". I actually made three 1/4" plates so I could adjust the final thickness if needed. Paul said 3/4 was perfect for him. When I put mine in my angle on the driveshaft was between 0 and 0.5 degrees. Seeing that we all have the same engine, trans and rear end combo I would be pretty confident you will need 3/4". Pictures of mine in my thread.

    On the wiring you didn't mention it but probably already considered this. Take a look at the routing for the lead that hooks up to the starter. That may have some effect on if you think the upper of lower frame rail might be better in relation to avoiding the heat from the headers.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 09-26-2016 at 04:37 AM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  9. #369
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Hi Jazzman, I have a scary observation about your flywheel. I'm not a coyote guy, but playing with small block Fords and Chevys, big and small, flywheel bolt torques are in the 70-80 ft pound range. Attached is a picture from ford racing (hopefully lol) which shows 177 inch pounds to be correct. I worked for one of those German luxury car line for over 20 years and they use a LOT of angle torqueing. The extra 60 degrees can be quite significant depending on thread pitch. I hope you didn't just torque them to 18 ft pounds. Maybe I'm wrong, someone please chime in with real coyote knowledge. To me 18 ft pounds on a flywheel is a little scary.
    Oh, and I LOVED your clutch alignment tool! Seriously.

    Kurtimage.png

  10. #370
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    Hi Jazzman, I have a scary observation about your flywheel. I'm not a coyote guy, but playing with small block Fords and Chevys, big and small, flywheel bolt torques are in the 70-80 ft pound range. Attached is a picture from ford racing (hopefully lol) which shows 177 inch pounds to be correct. I worked for one of those German luxury car line for over 20 years and they use a LOT of angle torqueing. The extra 60 degrees can be quite significant depending on thread pitch. I hope you didn't just torque them to 18 ft pounds. Maybe I'm wrong, someone please chime in with real coyote knowledge. To me 18 ft pounds on a flywheel is a little scary.
    Oh, and I LOVED your clutch alignment tool! Seriously.

    Kurtimage.png
    Kurt, I totally agree with you. I plan to call the FORD tech line and ask them. I also talked to a friend and determined that he has a tool to do just such a goofy measurement. Why can't they just give the answer to you in ft lbs or Nm, instead of inch/lbs plus a number of degrees?!! I have stopped moving forward on that part of the project just so I can double check that torque number. I was expecting a large number of foot lbs, not such a small amount. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. Better to check now that regret it later!!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  11. #371
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    We have Touchdown! After 10 months on the frame dolly, today was the day to put the car down on it's own feet. I started by lifting the rear just enough to get the tallest jack stants in there. The motorcycle jack really works well for this job.



    I then lifted the front enough to allow the frame dolly to be rolled out from under the car. Then the fun began. With my trust, if somewhat timid, assistant watching and worrying, we slowly dropped the car a couple inches at a time. It worked out fine, but I would recommend more help, more jack stands and more jacks to make this job a little easier. The good news is it is down safely on terra firma, or at least on concrete on terra firma!



    After looking at it for 10 months sitting about a foot taller than it is now, it is startling to see how low it is, and it is not even at correct height. The frame is at least 7-8" off the ground before putting the engine weight into it. It looks fantastic!!

    I started working on the wiring: slowly, methodically, thoughtfully. Mostly because it is an overwhelming task to begin with. I am sure I can do it, but it will take time to sort out every wire. I began by stiffening the firewall by attaching 1.5" wide pieces of aluminum in such a way as to create an upper level to lay wires before they are sorted into their final locations. After installing them, they give me a way to store the cables out of the way, but still provide access for installation and repair.



    I marked and drilled holes for the two rivnuts that would hold up the PDB (Power Distribution Box). I like to use rivnuts, but these particular ones are very strong and don't install easily, even with the tool designed for that job.



    The bad news is that the rivet installation tool broke while installing the second rivnut.



    Do you think it might be because I have superhuman strength? No. Because I bought a cheap tool? It wasn't cheap, even if the manufacture was. Perhaps because I put 12" x 3/4" pipes on the handles to increase my leverage to get the rivets to crush and stay? Mmmmmm, Maybe!!

    Despite the minor drama, I was able to get the PDB installed. Right where it is supposed to be.

    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-29-2016 at 03:37 AM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  12. #372
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Speaking of how low it is I realized my floor jack when completely retracted is taller than the 4.5" ride height which means I can't use that jack to put the car on the ground. Just something to consider. I have never had a car I couldn't get that jack under. I've been using a wheeled dolly on each wheel and it has been working out nice. Gives me a couple more inches for now. I have found numerous times I have taken the car on and off the jack stands for various tasks. A good tip I got was to use those during the engine install. It was very easy to move the car to the engine vs moving the crane to the car.

    On the torque plus degrees setting you could mark the bolt and mark 60 degrees then gradually increase the torque setting on the wrench and find the resultant torque it takes to get the 60 degrees. Then you would have a torque setting for the rest. How did you torque the rear wheel nuts? I remember the manual specified a torque plus 45 degrees on those.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  13. #373
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    Hi Jazzman, I have a scary observation about your flywheel. I'm not a coyote guy, but playing with small block Fords and Chevys, big and small, flywheel bolt torques are in the 70-80 ft pound range. Attached is a picture from ford racing (hopefully lol) which shows 177 inch pounds to be correct. I worked for one of those German luxury car line for over 20 years and they use a LOT of angle torqueing. The extra 60 degrees can be quite significant depending on thread pitch. I hope you didn't just torque them to 18 ft pounds. Maybe I'm wrong, someone please chime in with real coyote knowledge. To me 18 ft pounds on a flywheel is a little scary.
    I agree completely with Kurt's comments. Meant to say something before but have been very busy... 18 ft/lbs for flywheel bolts is way too light. I had the flywheel off on my Coyote build also to install the QuickTime block plate, and I did actually also use a billet flywheel, but just a personal choice. By all accounts the nodular flywheel that came with the engine is fine. I used new flywheel bolts when putting it back together, but that's an old habit and in hindsight probably not necessary. Fortunately, they weren't expensive. But I too encountered the torque to angle setting, and followed it. I agree they probably were in the 70-80 ft/lbs range when done. It was tight enough I had to take measures to keep the engine from turning over while tightening.

    Why not just use a straight ft/lbs number for the torque? Torque to angle is something many manufacturers use. It eliminates a number of things that can cause a traditional torque value to widely vary, including the type of fastener, materials used for both the bolt and the part it screws in to, cleanliness of the thread, if lubrication is used, type of lubrication used, etc. If you haven't gotten there yet, you'll find torque to angle also on the rear IRS axle bolts. Torque to angle is also typically used for stretch bolts (also known as torque-to-yield bolts) where the proper tightness is especially critical, although these clutch bolts are not stretch bolts.

    I see from your pictures you went with the QuickTime 6081 SFI bell housing. Hopefully you're prepared for how much that's going to be below your 4-inch chassis tubes. You can see it already with the amount it's below your Moroso oil pan. That flat oil pan surface will be just even with the 4-inch chassis tubes.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-29-2016 at 05:14 AM.
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  14. #374
    2bking's Avatar
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    The torque plus angle is easy to figure for the specified values. The 60 degrees is angle between the flats on the bolt head so no measuring is required. Just torque to the specified amount, mark a flat location and turn the bolt until the next flat lines up where the previous one was.
    King
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  16. #375
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Thank you all for your comments and assistance!

    WarEagleScott - I have not yet fully torqued the rear (or front) axel bolts because I had no way to stop the wheels from turning while I torqued the bolts. The brakes were not installed at that point. Now that the car is on the ground and the brakes are installed, I should be able to do that in short order. It is on my "Torque checklist" of things I need to go back and revisit.

    EdwardB - You are a true gentleman to respond during your big move. I hope it is going as well as possible. (it is moving, of course!!) I like the little friend for your Cobras. Do you plan on any upgrades to it? Perhaps a custom paint job or a chromed mower blade cover? Bigger engine????
    I now plan to completely remove the clutch and flywheel and start over just to be sure the torque values are right. Thanks for the education on why the confusing values.
    As for the #6081 SFI Bell housing, until the car got on the ground, it did not become clear to me that the bell housing would be an issue. However, it is a really big issue! I am going to contact the place I bought the bell housing and exchange it for a #6080 NON SFI Bell Housing. With only 4.5" of clearance, to give up 1.25" at the bell housing is way too much, and I would speculate even dangerous.

    2BKing - Thanks for that simple way to do "+60 degrees. That makes really good sense!!

    I called Ford Racing Techline at 800-367-3788. The guy I talked to was a bit prickly, sort of sounded like he was frustrated that I would bother him with such a dumb question. He did, however, email the answers that I need, so I guess I got what I needed. Here is the answer directly from Ford Racing Techline: (Note: it says "6 Speed", but it is instructions specifically for my Coyote motor and the Ford Racing clutch I installed. The Clutch doesn't know it's being attached to a Tremec 5 speed!)




    I called the vendor that sold me the Quicktime Bell Housing. He was not aware that there was any difference in diameter between the #6081 SFI Bell and the #6080 NON-SFI Bell. He told me to call Holley Performance products (the makers of Quicktime Bell housings) and confirm that there is a difference. I am pretty sure that if EdwardB says there is a difference, there IS! Unfortunately, the vendor wouldn't accept that authority. I called Holley at 866-466-6553 . . . and waited on hold . . . and waited . . . and waited . . .
    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-29-2016 at 03:24 PM.
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  17. #376
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    I now know more about Quicktime Bell Housings than I ever wanted to know!! I waited for a long time on hold with Holley. When I finally got a human, he didn't know the diameter of either of the bell housings. (not in his computer!) He was going to see if someone could measure them, but couldn't find anyone to do it. I did learn the minor differences. The SFI rated Bell housing #6081 and the NON-SFI bell housing #6080 have the same size bell. The key difference is the flange that attaches the bell to the block. Here is a photo of my current, and now clearly wrong, bell housing #6081:



    Notice the flange around the edge where all the bolts connect to the block is smooth and very wide. Now here is a photo stolen from EdwardB's thread that shows his #6080 bell housing (my thanks or apologies to Edwardb!):



    Clearly the flange is much more narrow, and instead of the edge being smooth, it has ears protruding where the bolts attach to the block. Because of all this, it's size is significantly smaller. Once again, EdwardB is right. I will have to forego the SFI rated bell housing. I think I can live with that decision. Of course it is going to take over a week to get a new one! Oh well! Off to remove the clutch and flywheel to get to the plate which also has to be exchanged. This will give me practice getting those torque value correct!!
    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-29-2016 at 03:38 PM.
    Jazzman

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  18. #377

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hey Jazzman,

    If I ever do a Ford build I'll be bugging you and Sir EdwardB!
    Patients You Two Have Far More Than Me!
    Good Luck!

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 09-30-2016 at 10:01 AM.

  19. #378
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Hey Jazzman,
    If I ever do a Ford build I'll bugging you and Sir EdwardB!
    Patients You Two Have Far More Than Me!
    Good Luck!

    Steve
    EdwardB has skill, experience, vision and indeed patience. In my case, "patience" masquerades as ignorance! For me it's all a part of the learning curve! I asked for it, I got it!

    BTW, nice Yoda sentence structure there! "Patients You Two Have Far More Than Me!" But to quote this same master mechanic: "Do. Or Do Not. There is no Try!" So I "Do".
    Last edited by Jazzman; 09-29-2016 at 10:34 PM.
    Jazzman

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  20. #379
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    One more flywheel comment..... Might want to replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts since they've already been torqued/stretched... Bolts are cheap.... Compared to the consequences......

  21. #380
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    One more flywheel comment..... Might want to replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts since they've already been torqued/stretched... Bolts are cheap.... Compared to the consequences......
    I don't disagree. As bolts go, however, those are not cheap! $47 at Summit! Oh well, the cost of learning I suppose. Does anyone else concur that replacement of the flywheel bolts is a prudent decision? Any dissenters?
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  22. #381
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    EdwardB - You are a true gentleman to respond during your big move. I hope it is going as well as possible. (it is moving, of course!!) I like the little friend for your Cobras. Do you plan on any upgrades to it? Perhaps a custom paint job or a chromed mower blade cover? Bigger engine????
    I now plan to completely remove the clutch and flywheel and start over just to be sure the torque values are right. Thanks for the education on why the confusing values.
    As for the #6081 SFI Bell housing, until the car got on the ground, it did not become clear to me that the bell housing would be an issue. However, it is a really big issue! I am going to contact the place I bought the bell housing and exchange it for a #6080 NON SFI Bell Housing. With only 4.5" of clearance, to give up 1.25" at the bell housing is way too much, and I would speculate even dangerous.
    Thanks! Long days but we're making progress. My new little friend already has 22 rocking horsepower. No custom paint or shiny parts in the future. I think you're making the right choice replacing the QuickTime bell with the non-SFI version. I've seen where guys have cut the bottom of the SFI one so it doesn't hang below the frame. But then it looks suspiciously like the non-SFI one. From a practical standpoint, I don't think you're giving up anything with the non-SFI version. It's still steel vs. aluminum and very robust.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    I don't disagree. As bolts go, however, those are not cheap! $47 at Summit! Oh well, the cost of learning I suppose. Does anyone else concur that replacement of the flywheel bolts is a prudent decision? Any dissenters?
    Having been only used once at the factory and once by you (but not tight enough so definitely not stretched) I suspect you're fine. If you really want to change them though, OEM Ford ones are a little over a buck each. I bought eight of these: http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/br3z6379a. I don't know what Summit is selling you for $47! Must be gold plated.
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  23. #382
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Ok more of my two cents lol
    The expensive bolts your getting from summit are probably ARP bolts... Different material, probably chromoly and would have a totally different torque spec. I'd stick with Edwardb's factory bolts at a buck a piece. Unless of course your gonna dump the clutch at like 8 grand lol 177 in pounds + 60 is for stock bolts. Which Ford seems to feel are good enough for their modular performance engines.

    Kurt

  24. #383
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    Ok more of my two cents lol
    The expensive bolts your getting from summit are probably ARP bolts... Different material, probably chromoly and would have a totally different torque spec. I'd stick with Edwardb's factory bolts at a buck a piece. Unless of course your gonna dump the clutch at like 8 grand lol 177 in pounds + 60 is for stock bolts. Which Ford seems to feel are good enough for their modular performance engines.

    Kurt
    Your $.02 is always appreciated!! Yep, you are right, ARP bolts. I will indeed follow Edwardb's suggestion.
    Jazzman

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  25. #384
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Thank you....
    I'm just a mechanical guy that looks at things extremely logical...
    Can't wait to get mine ordered.

  26. #385
    Senior Member 6t8dart's Avatar
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    Yes, I agree people above. ARP bolts are typically not torque to yield, and can be re-used several times. I would definitely give ARP a call, tell them the factory torque specs, and ask what the ARP spec is. I was told by an engine builder that you do not use factory torque specs on critical ARP bolts, ARP usually uses the same factory torque specs, but on internal engine fasteners, has their own procedure, and you also need their thread lube to get the proper reading.

  27. #386
    Member M3ichael's Avatar
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    Lots of great information in this thread. I've learned so much already and slowly building my confidence to "Do or do not there is no try" at a MK4 Build.
    Love the Star Wars quotes, huge fan I am.
    Starting to think Edwardb is wise like Obi-Wan Kenobi and great source of information "Help me OBD1 Kenobi, your my only hope"

  28. #387
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    Warning: the following brain freeze may prove to embarrass me! I admit it, I am stumped. I know exactly what I want to do with the fuel lines, but I can't figure out a combination of fittings and sources to get me from here to there. Here is where I am now:



    Standard installation of fuel lines. these connections are right under the PS footbox. The upper one is the 1/4" return line, the lower is the 5/16" feed line. Both have the female/female adapters installed in preparation of attaching the next line. These could, of course, be removed if necessary to accommodate the correct fittings. Here is where I am going:



    Standard issue Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, -06AN fittings. My goal is to connect the 5/16" Feed line to this point on the pressure regulator, and I want a 90 degree male to female fitting coming immediately out of the regulator, here: (I want to immediately turn the feed line straight down.)



    I want to connect the 1/4" return line to this point, straight connection, to a -06AN male fitting:



    So here is what I think I need:
    Feed Line:
    5/16" flared female to -06AN female adapter, a length of braided stainless fuel line with straight male -06AN connectors on both ends, then a -06AN Female to -06AN Male 90 degree adapter.

    Return line:
    1/4" flared female to -06AN female adapter, a length of braided stainless fuel line with straight male -06AN connectors on both ends.

    Feed Line from pressure regulator to engine:
    A length of braided stainless fuel line with -06AN male end on one end, and no end at all on the other. At the end on the engine, I will have to use a hose clamp because the fuel rail is a smooth tube. Thankfully, this part will be covered by the plastic cover over the engine.

    I have looked all over, and I can't seem to find the fittings necessary to make these connections. I looked all over Summit, and could not find what I need. I suspect it is because I don't know the right terminology. Please help! Where can I buy all this stuff to finish up my fuel lines? Thank you!!!
    Jazzman

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  29. #388
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Looks like a job for Edwardb.... But you might want to take a look there ---> http://russellperformance.com
    More of a complete line than summit would show.

    Kurt

  30. #389
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Also sounds like your terminology seems pretty good

  31. #390
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    The coyote install kit has the fitting you need that pushes onto the fuel rail.
    Mark at Breeze really helped me out with -AN fittings on my power steering lines. He would be a good person to call.

    I ordered the parts from summit in the ffr recommended parts list and these are what the fittings look like. I know you are wanting stainless hose so it won't be the same but might give you a little help.

    While you are at it my pressure gauge is a real pain to read because it is behind the engine. You may want a fitting that would allow you to change the output angle on that. Of course part of my problem is I made a bracket that offsets it from the firewall about an inch so the coyote harness could run behind it. Just something to consider though. I wish I had. I may need to change it.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 10-04-2016 at 05:32 AM.
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  32. #391
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Is that a different regulator than you had before? I recall you mentioned in a PM you had a #13301, which uses 3/8 in. NPT fittings. That looks more like the #13129 that I used. If so, what you are calling -6AN fittings on the regulator aren't standard -6AN fittings. They're "-6AN O-ring" which are different. There aren't a ton of options for those specific fittings, and I recommend you stay with the Aeromotive branded ones. I just used their straight fitting #15606 which then provides a standard -6AN male connection to the regulator. Easy to adapt to. But they do have a 90 degree version #15689 you could use for your feed line as you requested. It should be easy enough to get -6AN fittings for the other end of your feed and return lines.

    For your connection at the Coyote fuel rail, since you're using -6AN braided SS lines, check #21608 from Breeze. It's a Ham-Let SS Let-Lok compression fitting that goes right over the smooth fuel rail on the Coyote and provides a standard -6AN male connection. Works perfectly.
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  33. #392
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    I should have thought of Mark Breeze from the start! I just called him. He had everything I needed, was able to package it up and ship it today, even the price didn't require blood pressure medication! Thanks, Edwardb, for reminding me to call this trusted vendor.

    Yes, that is a different regulator. After discussing the options, I decided to go with the one you have. It gives me more future upgrade possibilities and costs $20 less! I did order two of the straight fittings you mention and one of the 90 degree fittings from Aeromotive. Thanks for the heads up. I hope the new house is coming along nicely. We are going to need new shop photos once it is set up!!
    Last edited by Jazzman; 10-04-2016 at 12:17 PM.
    Jazzman

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  34. #393
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    I am trying to get everything done that will be behind the motor when it is installed. I installed the 250A master fuse just below and to the left of the PDB.



    I then had to figure out how to get the primary Battery positive line from the master cutoff switch that I installed in the trunk to the master fuse. I had previously routed the rear harness wires, the rear speaker wires, the Hot At All Times (HAAT) battery positive lead, and the main battery cable through two pieces of convolute tubing. However, it was still messy. I decided to pull both of those convolute tubing sets out and combine them into one line. All this stuff has to go into one tube:



    I did not have any convolute tubing large enough to carry all those wires. However, the main battery cable that came with the Coyote Engine Harness Package (that I am not going to use in its original form anyway) is surrounded by 7/8" convolute tubing. So I spent about 30 minutes stripping out the battery cable from the tubing to create a piece the size I needed. After some additional work, everything is back in one tube. I have taped up the major stress points, but not the entire tube yet. I will do that just prior to permanently mounting the cable down the inside of the transmission tunnel. I am doing this just in case I have forgotten something that needs to go to the rear of the car.



    At the other end of the battery cable, I had to attach a ringed terminal end that will be attached to the master fuse, left side. This tool was used to crimp the 4 gauge cable. (I borrowed it!! I had to strike it with a big hammer to create the compression crimp. Clearly I did not do this sitting on the tire, but I forgot to take a photo while it was sitting on the concrete floor!)



    And this is what the crimp ends up looking like:



    I then slid up the heat shrink covering and melted it into place. All done for that one. I have more to do, but I don't have any more unused cable end ring terminals. I will have to order those from DelCity. I am putting together a list of things I need from them.

    I then split the cable that came with the starter to create the starter cable and the cable going from the master fuse to the PDB.



    In this photo, the cable going left from the master fuse is the line the main power line to the starter. The starter signal wire is in there, but I haven't yet figured out where to connect it. That is a project for tomorrow night.

    The cable currently pointing down from the right side of the master fuse is the cable that will feed the PDB. The other end is not hooked up because I don't have the ring terminals yet.

    The large convolute cable that loops up from under the PDB is the end of the rear wiring harness, the HAAT line, and the rear speaker wires. I am going to create a hole for them to pass through the side of the DS footbox. I am waiting to do that until I figure out what all must pass through that hole.
    Jazzman

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  35. #394
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    The more I read about your build, the more inspired I am to attempt one of my own. While I wouldn't go after a flip-top, the attention to detail and documentation is commendable. Thank you for your contributions to the community.

    With that said, would be curious to see an all-in cost once this is completed. Nailing down a reliable budget target is going to be critical to getting my project off the ground.

    Keep up the good work!

    Dan

  36. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by RHITME03 View Post
    The more I read about your build, the more inspired I am to attempt one of my own. While I wouldn't go after a flip-top, the attention to detail and documentation is commendable. Thank you for your contributions to the community. With that said, would be curious to see an all-in cost once this is completed. Nailing down a reliable budget target is going to be critical to getting my project off the ground.

    Keep up the good work!

    Dan
    Thanks for the compliment, Dan! I am just trying to pass on what I have learned from so many of the other true experts on this forum. I am proud to say that I have stolen ideas from the very best! Whenever I can, I give credit where it is truly due.

    There have been many discussions of cost before me. FFR is an extremely good product, and what they tell you about cost is true . . . up to a point. If you buy the complete kit, build it as designed in the manual, do not do any modifications, do not powder coat everything under the sun, use every last part and fitting provided, use a modest engine, use something other than the replica Hallibrand wheels, etc, etc, you can certainly do one of these things for less than I am. I knew going into this project that it was likely that this would be my one and only opportunity to do such a car, and I intentionally wanted the best of the best. Unless you have taken your blood pressure medication, I don't know that you want to know how much I have in my build thus far!! At the end of the project, I plan to post a truly complete, item by item, build cost list. I will give you a few numbers to think about. I am going to round up to the nearest grand just so you are not surprised too badly.

    I upgraded a lot on the original order. I ordered the "20th Anniversary" package, but did not get the custom badging. Everything else is the upgraded 20th anniversary stuff: Stainless side pipes, 18"Hallibrands, IRS, upgraded Koni Shocks, Wilwood brakes all around, leather seats, a bunch of other stuff, it even included the IRS Center section. My "Complete Kit" cost right at $30k.

    The Coyote engine/Tremec TKO-600 transmission package is not cheap. Think $12k Then you have to add Bell housing, clutch, starter, alternator, power steering pump (come on, you know you're going to add power steering!!), etc, and you are in for at least another $4-$5k. A more traditional pushrod engine can be had for somewhat less, but you can also spend as much or more.

    There are certainly more expenses that I have not listed that you don't have to do, but I chose to: Powder coating, power steering, upgraded headers, I have lost track. Certainly the Fliptop alone added $1-$1.5K of costs which you won't experience.

    All in, up to today, I have spent $53,545.81. I still have paint to go. Figure $6-$8K. With my flip top I am expecting the high side. I have plowed through the majority of the big costs, but the little ones can eat you alive. I still expect another $3-$4K in miscellaneous parts. I still have to get the new roll bars, the stereo, all the wiring and custom switches and keyless entry stuff, some more braided stainless hoses for the power steering and the radiator. I can't think of what else, but I am pretty sure there will be something else! All in I expect my cost to be right about $65,000. My wife is prepared for $70K. Beyond that I am sleeping in the car . . . or perhaps with the fishes!! This number does not factor in all the tool costs. I already had the vast majority of tools required, but I have spent some additional money on various custom tools I did not previously own. I also spent some money on some tools that you won't need if you don't do custom modifications, and some money on a few tools that I ended up not needing as much as I thought. I don't factor them in because I will use them for other projects as well.

    I hope that these numbers don't scare you off. While I know I cannot sell the car for what I have in it, I have never done a project that I have had more pride it, I have never had so much fun, learned so much, and had such a positive experience. It even has given me the opportunity to get to know my neighbors. They come over to see what in the world I am building! It is truly a stress reliever, a way to clear my mind of the day's activities. I truly recommend it. I am now really worried about what I am going to do when I finish this build! Another car is not out of the question. Perhaps a 25th Anniversary model?

    *** NOTE added 8/20/2017. Boy was I wrong on paint cost. I am already $10k in on the paint, and the final color coats are yet to be done. Project $15K for custom paint on a Flip Top. There is a lot more body work to be done to make it all flow together correctly.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 08-20-2017 at 02:12 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  37. #396
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    Kevin -

    She's looking great! I think your pricing guidance is solid, and provides an honest look at what these builds can cost, while offering the reality that choices can be made to cost less.

    You have created a beautiful car, and the idea that someone could do similarly for your budget is solid information!

    I still say you have great big brass ball bearings to do that flip top! I have really enjoyed your build thread.

    Regards,

    Steve

  38. #397
    2bking's Avatar
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    Don't forget the premium top. It will make driving in the Arizonian sun doable. I can say sitting in mine with jeans on and the sun overhead feels like second degree burns are happening.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  39. #398
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    You are right King! I'm getting way too close to sleeping with the fishes now!!
    Last edited by Jazzman; 10-08-2016 at 02:32 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  40. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    I hope that these numbers don't scare you off. While I know I cannot sell the car for what I have in it, I have never done a project that I have had more pride it, I have never had so much fun, learned so much, and had such a positive experience. It even has given me the opportunity to get to know my neighbors. They come over to see what in the world I am building! It is truly a stress reliever, a way to clear my mind of the day's activities. I truly recommend it. I am now really worried about what I am going to do when I finish this build! Another car is not out of the question. Perhaps a 25th Anniversary model?
    Jazzman-

    Thank you for the blunt, honest, cost assessment. As I started planning my build (I think 25th Anniversary is probably the right time frame), My back of napkin quickly came to $45-55k... The miscellaneous parts is an area where I definitely missed. I completely get the "Only going to do it once" mentality. Also with the time required to build, I can't imagine cutting corners for the sake of a few thousand dollars.

    With all that said, I'm going to head back to the sidelines and watch completion of your build.

    Best of luck, be safe, and have fun.

    Dan

  41. #400
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RHITME03 View Post

    With all that said, I'm going to head back to the sidelines and watch completion of your build.

    Dan
    Dan, I sure hope I didn't scare you off. I was fearful that I might. Your choices will certainly affect what your final cost is. The more knowledgeable you are, the more you can save costs. The more work you do yourself, the more you will save as well. One big cost saver is to do all your Powdercoating at one time. I didn't, and have spent far too much on it.

    I wish you the very best of luck In your decision. I really hope you get to do one. It is a great experience.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

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