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Thread: Midwest 33 Build Page

  1. #161
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    Sorry, it has been a long time since I posted status. Getting close to completion of the 33. I have some final trim, exhaust alignment, head liner and glass left. But had it running in the driveway today and thought I would post some pictures. I've got a video but have never posted on you tube so I'll need to figure that out.
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  3. #162
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Well done, Sir.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  4. #163
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    Dude. Your build is so completely badass!

    How bad was it working on that finished frame while still fabbing and fitting stuff? I think I'm gonna take apart and finish frame after all fitting and body work is done.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  5. #164
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    That black looks deep and smooth! Nice job on the body.

  6. #165
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    Thanks Kraftee, SVTfreak and Erlihemi, much appreciated. SVTfreak, I think your plan is a better route than mine was. I didn't know any better when I started. If I had it to do over I would leave it bare until much later in the build. In the end it worked out okay, but I did have to be careful throughout.

  7. #166
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    Absolutely beautiful job on your car.

  8. #167
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    Thank You WRP ! I hope the engine install is going well for you.

  9. #168
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    Learning a lot

  10. #169
    Senior Member Motor_Freak's Avatar
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    It's sharp! Good job!

  11. #170
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    Thanks Roman!

  12. #171
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    Finally found someone who installs residential garage lifts in my area and took the plunge. Got a narrow grey 4 post Bendpak so I can stack the 33 and MK4. Been looking at them since I started the 33 and from the time I contacted them and had it installed was less than two weeks. First use of it was to install a set of Magnaflow mufflers. I first ordered the 5x8's and could see without taking them out of the wrapping they were too tall and actually larger than 5x8. I then got the polished 4x9's. While I'm still adjusting all the pipes and hangers it looks like these will work out. Hopefully they sound okay on this thing. Had to lighten up the underside photo a bit as it was too dark even with flash.
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  13. #172
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    Well it is not officially a go-gart but it was my first actual drive down the driveway and around the block. I've never posted to you tube before so trying to upload some short videos from today. Hope this works.

    https://youtu.be/Xr89kOB_uKw

    https://youtu.be/gUKCkDqeueM

    https://youtu.be/EcEqnynXT2k

  14. #173
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    Sounds great pulling up the driveway! That Blower Whine is making my right foot twitch a little

  15. #174

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    Oh that WHINE!! I put in a noisy gear drive in my last 383 as a poor substitute..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  16. #175
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    Thanks guys. It was fun to actually drive it after working on it for two years. Funny that my wife noted I needed to change the fan belt because it was squealing. I told her a lot went into getting that sound. Thanks again!

  17. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midwest 33 Build View Post
    Thanks guys. It was fun to actually drive it after working on it for two years. Funny that my wife noted I needed to change the fan belt because it was squealing. I told her a lot went into getting that sound. Thanks again!
    I thought I had a fan belt squealing too, but then I asked the passenger to be quiet so I could figure out where the noise was coming from...

  18. #177
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    Pulling all my paperwork together to create a package for Registration process. Sat through the long lines at the DMV to get a tax form that surprisingly you have to pick up at a facility. Also running through the checklist of items to have.

    I attached a photo of the side mirrors I am going with. They are the Hagan Fatties - 4" round convex mirror heads with the Hagan Noodle arms that extend the mirror out 4" and either up or down 4". The arms are sold as a pair but the mirrors are not.

    Also need to quickly figure out a low visibility bumper setup.
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  19. #178
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    You'll love the wide field of view the Fatties give you. I bought the oval ones with the noodle arms. I mounted mine on the doors as, with the soft top, this allows me to see both mirrors, even with the side curtains up.
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  20. #179
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    Thanks Kraftee, looks nice. Thanks for the photo. I was thinking of going in front of the door but I also like where you have mounted yours. I also like the ovals too. Are you doing anything from a bumper standpoint ?

  21. #180
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    "Bumpers? We don't need no stinkin' bumpers!" But seriously, no. I am just going to be very very careful! Eric
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  22. #181
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    BTW, one other thing I like about having the mirrors mounted to the doors is that they are completely out of the way when the doors are open - in terms of getting into the car. Mounted to the cowl, I am afraid I would be reflexively grabbing for them when sitting down into the driver seat. Also, the noodle arms have a very small mounting footprint. I mounted a 5" long piece of aluminum angle as a backer inside the door. Just seemed too fragile without it. I was afraid someone brushing by the car in a parking lot would bust the fiberglass where it mounts. It's really strong, stable and robust with the aluminum backer.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  23. #182
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    Laughing, as I am thinking the exactly the same. I will look to see if I can craft some temporary ones that I can easily take on and off. I am just looking deeper into our Illinois laws on this. I think what I am seeing is that registered as a Custom Vehicle / Street Rod I might need them but as a Specially Constructed Vehicle I may not. I will need to call them to see if I am reading that correctly. Thanks !

  24. #183
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    For the mirrors, Thanks yes I know what you mean. The base on the arm has a pretty small footprint.

  25. #184
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    Not too enthusiastic about putting bumpers or front license plate holder on this thing so I am opting to create ones that are temporary and easily removable. I've been wanting to take a shot a metal work anyhow so I'll try to make a project of it. Last time I welded was with a stick welder in high school shop class about 40 years ago so this should be a laugh for those that know how to cut and weld metal cause I don't so take it easy on me.

    I started by looking over the front of the frame for existing mount points I could use. I ended up deciding for my first take at this to use the unused two holes in the front plate of the frame. I went out and picked up some steel pieces, a cut off (chop saw), plasma cutter, and an AC/DC TIG Welder. (oh, and a brand new Fire Extinguisher) I cut out a cardboard template that would go in front of the front plate of the frame and under the two larger lower control arm bolts.

    I cutout the rough shape of the backing plate with the plasma cutter. Never used one before, was admittedly a little nervous, but it ended up being pretty fun to do. Ground down the edges and drilled the two mounting holes. So my first step with creating a backing plate that I can quickly remove and weld the rest of my brackets to is installed. During the week, I need to figure out how to TIG weld. : ) - and figure out how I will route the backing plate to bumper brackets.
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  26. #185
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Not sure why you want to try to learn to TIG. Let me rephrase that: TIG is WAY harder to learn to do properly than MIG - and since you're using steel for your brackets, MIG would work fine. I have been a metal sculptor for over 40 years. My copper, brass, and stainless creations are in homes and businesses from Australia to England. I am pretty decent with a MIG welder - and very proficient with gas brazing (since that's the bulk of what I do.) However, I never had the guts to try TIG welding! You'll find MIG welding to be easy to learn, very intuitive, and fun. TIG? Better have a pro instruct you. ERIC
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  27. #186
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Midwest,

    I noticed that your upper and lower control arms both appear to be chromed. How did you manage that with the ball joints being mounted already?



    Tim
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  28. #187
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    Tig welding is not that difficult. I learned to gas weld when I was 14, learned stick welding in high school and taught myself how to TIG weld, 45 years later. I hadn't done any welding since the mid '70's.

    The are a lot of good youtube videos that are helpful. I used TIG to weld up a complete stainless steel exhaust system, cap and weld new hose fittings to my aluminum radiator and weld a number of stainless and plain steel brackets to my steel frame.

    I bought a combination TIG/stick welder with a plasma cutter.

  29. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Midwest,

    I noticed that your upper and lower control arms both appear to be chromed. How did you manage that with the ball joints being mounted already?


    Tim
    I used to work at a chrome shop. It's certainly possible to chrome a greasy ball joint, but all of the grease would have to be removed and some masking done to block the throw of the copper, nickel and chrome plating. I've chromed things like a glass pack muffler, using styrofoam cups to keep the solutions out of the muffler.

    Can't say much positive about welding a ball joint in place. Obviously, if it needs replaced, the chrome job will suffer after grinding through the weld.

    I have screw-in ball joints on the suspension of my car. I used anti-seize on the threads and torqued them to 100 ft. lbs. 4000 miles later, they haven't moved. A special socket wrench is needed.

  30. #189
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    Hi Eric. Similar to what DaveS53 noted, after the temporary bumpers I do plan on hitting the stainless steel exhaust, getting rid of the corrugated radiator tubing with solid and then build a custom electronics box out of aluminum for the infinity Box electronics in the trunk so right/wrong I tried to pick something that could cover all three. I'm pretty patient/persistent with the challenge of practicing to learn new stuff so as long as I don't burn down the garage or have another cutoff wheel style incident then I should be able to get the hang of it. I fired it up this evening and ran some zig zag looking beads that started to straighten out towards the end tonight.

    Take care,

  31. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Midwest,

    I noticed that your upper and lower control arms both appear to be chromed. How did you manage that with the ball joints being mounted already?



    Tim
    Hi Tim, the upper and lower controls arms originally were powder coated and then I changed my mind and ended up going with getting them chromed. For both processes to clean the grease out of the ball joints I used a one of those solvent washer bins from Harbor Freight filled with degreaser. Took the grease fittings out of the ball joints and placed the control arms in degreaser. I used a air hose with small nozzle and light air pressure in the grease fitting opening and then let them sit back in the degreaser. Rinse and repeat, several times. They masked off the arm side of the ball joint at the chrome shop and as DaveS53 notes if I need to replace the ball joints it will jack up the chrome so it will likely end up requiring a strip and re-chrome.

    They turned out okay in chrome, but I'll note the area inside the two flat plates on the upper control arms is close together and gave the chrome guy I used problems and it isn't polished. I was worried about it while they sat on the bench, but once installed and the shocks are installed there is so much else going on in that area that even with an open front end it's difficult to see. Thought I'd let you know though in case you are considering it.

  32. #191
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    mufflers

    Quote Originally Posted by Midwest 33 Build View Post
    Finally found someone who installs residential garage lifts in my area and took the plunge. Got a narrow grey 4 post Bendpak so I can stack the 33 and MK4. Been looking at them since I started the 33 and from the time I contacted them and had it installed was less than two weeks. First use of it was to install a set of Magnaflow mufflers. I first ordered the 5x8's and could see without taking them out of the wrapping they were too tall and actually larger than 5x8. I then got the polished 4x9's. While I'm still adjusting all the pipes and hangers it looks like these will work out. Hopefully they sound okay on this thing. Had to lighten up the underside photo a bit as it was too dark even with flash.
    Did the magnaflow help quiet the car down.... the FFR mufflers are so loud.... what Magnaflow fit the 33

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  34. #192
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    I took off the FFR mufflers due to the glass blowing out of them. I thought they sounded fine. However the Flowmaster Delta Flow 40-Series mufflers I installed are a bit quieter but have a much "throatier" sound. Plus, no fiberglass to blow out.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  35. #193
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    Mufflers

    Quote Originally Posted by kraftee View Post
    I took off the FFR mufflers due to the glass blowing out of them. I thought they sounded fine. However the Flowmaster Delta Flow 40-Series mufflers I installed are a bit quieter but have a much "throatier" sound. Plus, no fiberglass to blow out.
    Thank you for the information.
    I am running a LSX 454..... very loud. I have the FFR mufflers with turn-downs.... I think I will change the muffles and run the tail pipes to the rear of the car.
    IMG_0033.JPG

  36. #194
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    Wow there are some really nice cars on the build forum these days !

    Been focused on retiring and downsizing further south and unfortunately have a new home/garage to go along with our current home that's gone too long without selling. Unless the house sells soon it unfortunately looks like I am going to need to sell the 33HotRod, Roadster and 18' trailer.

    Don't even know what these things go for these days so in the next few days I'll need to document where both builds are at and try and determine a reasonable price for them.

    I thought I'd do a quick post to note they are coming. Any serious interest, please direct mail me.

    Regards,
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    Last edited by Midwest 33 Build; 09-16-2019 at 05:39 PM.

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  38. #195
    Member Roger Pugh's Avatar
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    THis is sick looking. Very clean, I love it!!

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