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Thread: EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

  1. #681
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    This past week I received a copy of the IRS instructions (thanks Bob!) plus my first backorder shipment. Still a ways to go, but progress. I now have the first of the three control arms. I already had most of the hardware. But things are starting to take shape a little now. First a recap briefly mentioned in the opening post. The 2015 Mustang IRS setup requires three parts from a 2015 Mustang: The center section (differential), knuckles, and hubs. The rest of the parts are supplied by FF as part of the new IRS setup. You don't need the donor CV joints and have to install them onto new axles as in some earlier versions. FF is supplying the CV axles completed and ready to assemble into the suspension, e.g. with joints, boots, etc. Not long after ordering the kit, FF suggested I may want to start looking for the donor parts. I found complete 2015 Mustang rear suspension pallets at MPS Auto Salvage in Georgia, and picked one up. It's a "zero miles take-off" meaning the newly assembled Mustang went from the factory in Flat Rock, MI to an aftermarket performance assembly line and part of their upgrade is to replace the entire rear IRS assembly. The new IRS setup is beefy, but apparently not up to the task of the 800-900 HP aftermarket engine mods, stickier tires, etc. Although I only need a few parts off the pallet, at the time MPS wasn't selling them separately. Some other places were, but the cost for the individual pieces was higher. So, received the pallet looking like this:



    Removed the parts I needed. I'm hoping to sell the balance and recover some of the cost. In total, should be a pretty good deal. The 3.55 center section case is cast iron, and posi like all new Mustang diffs.



    The cast iron center section had some surface rust. Not unexpected. The hubs too had a little surface rust. But the parts appeared to be exactly as advertised. Basically brand new parts. A little wire wheel action and the rust was removed off the cast iron. After thorough cleaning and degreasing, applied some POR15 to the iron and clear Dupli-Color engine spray to the rear aluminum cover. Now ready for installation.



    The knuckles require a piece of one of the arms to be cut off. I saw this in the pictures and write-up, but waited until the instructions were in hand giving the details. The instructions give the location and shows using a Sawzall. I don't own one, plus prefer a little more "civilized" approach. With some blocks clamped to hold the knuckles square, I cut them with a band saw. Took it slow and easy and worked fine. A little scary though, lopping off those pieces.



    Cleaned up the cut using a disk sander, and then filed and sanded a little radius. I went over the complete knuckles and knocked off some of the larger casting parting lines and just cleaned up in general, and then gave them a quick coat of clear Duplic-Color like the center section. Not required at all, but I've had good luck with this stuff and should stay looking clean and nice for a while. I think they're good to go.



    The standard Mustang wheel wheel studs need to be changed to 1/2 x 20, same as the supplied front hubs and matching the lug nuts provided with the FF wheels. The 10 new wheel studs are included with the kit. The instructions show hitting the old ones out with a hammer. I chose instead to use a short piece of black pipe and squeeze them out using my bench vise. Took some muscle, but worked OK. The instructions showed putting the new ones back in with a lug nut, washer and a ratchet. I'm apparently not strong enough because that didn't work for me. Mainly I think because it's impossible to hold the hub while putting that much torque on it. So I rummaged through my junk hardware drawer and found a hardened 1/2 x 20 nut and few hardened washers. Lubed them up good with some assembly lube, and pulled all the studs in with an air impact driver. A press would be ideal to remove and replace the wheel studs, and thought maybe I had an excuse to finally buy one. But no luck. Managed without it. Then cleaned up the exposed parts of the hubs and also applied some POR15 and put them back in the knuckles. Note this is one of many changes with the new IRS parts. The axle bearing is in a bolted in carrier. No longer necessary to press the axle bearings in and out of the aluminum knuckle itself. Also note the little cover and screw in the knuckle just above the hub. This is where the standard ABS sensor is normally mounted. I'm not going to try an ABS installation, so don't need the sensor. But didn't want to leave an open hole directly down into the axle bearings. So made a little cover out of 1/8 inch aluminum and used the sensor mounting screw to hold it in place.

    I have two questions about painting the rear differential. #1) Did you use the full prep with POR engine degreaser and metal prep before applying the POR 15 paint? and #2) What is the purpose of the clear coat of Dupli color paint? Does it protect the aluminum somehow or just make it look better for car shows?

    Thanks so much

    Mark

  2. #682
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Eaton View Post
    I have two questions about painting the rear differential. #1) Did you use the full prep with POR engine degreaser and metal prep before applying the POR 15 paint? and #2) What is the purpose of the clear coat of Dupli color paint? Does it protect the aluminum somehow or just make it look better for car shows?

    Thanks so much

    Mark
    Yes to the first part. I use the POR degreaser and metal prep products before applying POR-15. For the second question, I like to use the Duplicolor clear on aluminum parts like the center section cover, knuckles, etc. when they're new and clean. Then they stay that way. Dirt and grime wipes right off. I wouldn't say it's for car shows or visual in any way because 99% of the time the parts aren't visible with the car on the ground. But I've been known to put the car on the lift and clean the underside. Call it anal, call it whatever. It's not for everyone and I'm not promoting it. Just something I like to do.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-17-2017 at 08:17 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #683
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Bump - Just because this thread is much to valuable to get lost. This is required reading for first-timers!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered 7/30/15. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered 11/25/15, First Start 12/24/16, First Go Cart, 1/6/17, Licensed and Legal 11/20/17. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  4. #684
    Edwardb, you probably get tired of hearing how valuable this thread is, but it is. I bought an un-assembled Mk3 and I'm starting the preliminary body work (cut out, minor mods, etc). From reading your thread it appears you previous did an Mk3 so I've got a couple of questions for you if you dont' mind.

    The Mk3 has an inner lip on the side vent openings. I cut out the opening and then set the vent (I'm using the FFR vents similar to yours) on the inside and realized the fit was terrible. I saw on your thread that you fit your opening to the vent so everything was parallel. I'm planning to do the same. It appears however the Mk4 does not have the inner lip like the Mk3, it that right? Is there any reason I couldn't grind off the inner lip and enlarge the opening as needed to fit the vent properly?

    My second question is regarding the front body mounting. I'm not crazy about using the bolts thru the side of the front vents to mount the body. I'm learning the early Mk4's used the quick jack mounts to essentially "float" the body. Since you've done both the Mk3 & Mk4 is it reasonable to use the Finish Line grommets to mount the front body. Also, I see they have a 3/4" ID but do you know what the OD is. My Mk3 does not have holes yet so I need to cut them.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    JD

  5. #685
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Interesting how this thread keeps popping up. Happy to help if I can.

    Yes, the side vents are different between the Mk3 and Mk4. The Mk3 was more of a finished opening with the lip on the inside as you describe. The Mk4 is flat on both sides, and the louver opening just cut in. I don't see any reason why you couldn't flatten the back of the Mk3 and make the opening whatever shape you want. Spend time getting the opening cleaned up, straight, etc. I've seen some that were left pretty rough, including not even painting the exposed inner edge. Doesn't look too great.

    For the front mounts, I don't see any reason why you couldn't leave out the bolts in the side of the brake cooling inlet used on the Mk3 and hang the nose on the quick jacks. That's how the Mk4's were initially set up, with split tubes and washers to hang on the quick jacks. I didn't care for that setup, and used only the Finishline grommets and 3/4-inch tubes on #7750, and it worked great. Talked about a bunch in this thread: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...-grommets.html. Factory Five added a bracket sometime after I received #7750 that bolts to the quick jack mounting and is captured by the turn signal/running light bolts. I received those brackets with #8674, but didn't use them for a couple reasons. I'm very satisfied the grommets, properly fitted and installed, along with proper fitting quick jack tubes gives a solid mount. Others in the thread link I provided agree. If you're interested, I'm sure you could buy those brackets from Factory Five. But since they were developed for the Mk4, no guarantee they would fit your Mk3. Sorry I don't have the part numbers.

    Two other hints/responses: Since you don't have the quick jack holes in the body, be very careful. The nose is actually held up some, to the point where it floats above the hood 3/4-inch tubes. It's necessary to have it in that position to give the best hood fit plus not have interference with the hood hinges. You also want the holes in the body to fit the grommets precisely. Easy enough to measure when you have them. The hole will be kind of a racetrack shape.

    Hope this helps and good luck.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  6. #686
    Thanks Edward. That was quite a discusion on the other forum. I know just what to now. Got the grommets and tubes on order. Best of luck on your new build, perhaps if I follow along I'll be motivated to do one next.

    Jim
    Mk3, 302 Carb.

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