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Thread: EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

  1. #561
    2bking's Avatar
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    Hi Paul,
    That is a very nice build with a lot of attention to detail. You should wins some awards for that piece of work and I'm looking forward to see how you place in the Autorama.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  2. #562
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    Paul,

    Amazing build! Such fine quality and your sharing are tremendous. Regardless if someone builds a roadster or coupe, your detail will be a guide to a quality build. It will be a bit sad to see the thread come to an end. However, we hope you will share some of your travels as you put the car on the road.

    Thanks,
    Len
    1972 Corvette Stingray 350 c.i. Manual Steering & Brakes
    2003 H-D Softail Deuce 88 c.i. TwinCam
    Gen 3 Coupe Dreamer

  3. #563
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    Looks awesome. Good luck at the show, the quality of your work and attention to detail has set the bar pretty high for the rest of us to follow....Cheers

  4. #564
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Finish Line is Very Near

    Today I finally finished the trunk carpet. A little bit tedious, at least for me. Plus lots of reaching all the way inside. Way easier to do with the body off! I used black Bentley Auto Carpet from Miami Corp. I bought a chunk of it for #7750 thinking of doing the cockpit and trunk, but ended up only doing the trunk and using the stock carpet for the cockpit. Same as this build. So had plenty left to do the trunk again. It’s nice carpet. I made patterns from kraft paper for each piece, then cut and installed the carpet pieces. I used the previously mentioned outdoor carpet adhesive and gel contact cement. Fitting in and around the trunk box plus the frame pieces was interesting, but finally done.



    Finished putting in the Simpson harness including the Replicaparts trim plates on the back wall. Today while glue was drying, began installing the two roll bars. Won’t take long to finish those.



    The only assembly item left on my list is the trunk light. I’m going to use a strip of LED’s and a magnetic proximity switch somewhere on the lid or hinge. Probably won’t take the time to mess with that until after the show. By rule, the battery will be disconnected the whole time the car is on the show floor in Cobo. So nothing lost there. Down to final spit and polish now.
    Last edited by edwardb; 02-15-2017 at 10:20 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. #565
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    You're all but there now!

    I was it the Indy World of Wheels show this past weekend with the LCS raffle car and they not only required disconnecting the battery but also securing the gas cap---a long zip tie pulled around the LeMans cap and lever so that it can't be released does the trick.

    Look forward to seeing photos of 8674 on the floor!

    Jeff

  6. #566
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    You're all but there now!

    I was it the Indy World of Wheels show this past weekend with the LCS raffle car and they not only required disconnecting the battery but also securing the gas cap---a long zip tie pulled around the LeMans cap and lever so that it can't be released does the trick.

    Look forward to seeing photos of 8674 on the floor!

    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff. I have a locking cap under the LeMans cap, so shouldn't be necessary to do anything additional.



    Battery disconnect, locking fuel cap, and no more than 1/8 tank of fuel are all in the rules. My other times attending they were never actually inspected, but I'll be ready if they do. They only judge what they can see, but as I found out the first time with my Mk3, the judges don't consider a master disconnect a disconnected battery. If they can see the battery, they expect to see the positive lead removed from the post.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  7. #567
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Sure is exciting seeing this build come to a conclusion!

    Speaking of the battery I have a question on the front battery mount.
    I used the same Breeze front setup you used. I notice it is pretty tight reaching down there around the cooling hoses to access the battery. When the battery was going in I wasn't really thinking about what it would take to replace it or how much the body and hood being in position may affect getting the battery out.
    Now that your body is on does it complicate getting it out at all? Do you anticipate having to disconnect some of the cooling hoses when you change the battery or do you feel there is room to lift to out?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  8. #568
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Now that your body is on does it complicate getting it out at all? Do you anticipate having to disconnect some of the cooling hoses when you change the battery or do you feel there is room to lift to out?
    I don't think the body or hood changes anything. You're right, it could be a little tight getting that thing out of there. Looks like it might squeeze out the bottom rather than the top. If not, the upper radiator hose might need to be disconnected and moved aside. I've had great luck with Optima batteries (knocking on wood...) so hopefully won't have to find out very a long time.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #569
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    I’ve been following this thread since the beginning and have pick up a lot of good information for when I’m able to purchase a Roadster Kit and start my build. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge. Good Luck at the Car Show.

    Brien

  10. #570
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I don't think the body or hood changes anything. You're right, it could be a little tight getting that thing out of there. Looks like it might squeeze out the bottom rather than the top. If not, the upper radiator hose might need to be disconnected and moved aside. I've had great luck with Optima batteries (knocking on wood...) so hopefully won't have to find out very a long time.
    What a great thought about it potentially coming out the bottom. Had not even considered that. Genius!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  11. #571
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Trunk Lighting

    Yesterday I finished the roll bars. That was the last of my “pre-show” punch list items. I was really glad to get that done. Drilling the holes for the trim rings I purposely didn’t do before just to make sure the final fit was exact. So needed to drill 20 holes for the six trim rings (dual roll bars) into my new paint. Needless to say, I was very careful. Also some interesting reaches getting them all installed and tightened, But all done now. I’ve not done dual roll bars before, so will need to get used to the look.

    With a little remaining time, decided to go ahead and install my trunk lights. I’ve done trunk lights on each of my other builds with single fixtures, but always a little underwhelmed with the final result. With the popularity and availability, did an LED strip light on this build and much better. I planned ahead for the power and added a wire inside the RF rear harness from the courtesy light circuit before installing it into the chassis. This is an always on battery circuit, so perfect for this application. Same circuit can be used for interior or footwell lights, which I also did. I ran the added wire along with the wires to the license plate light. So the power was available in the corner of the trunk where the wires make the transition into the trunk lid.

    I picked up a Weatherproof LED Flexible Light Strip, part number WFLS-NWx-SWBK, from superbrightleds.com. It’s 1 meter long (slightly more than needed), silicon encased, and with 3M mounting tape on the back. Nice product and perfect for this application. On #7750 I used a pin switch mounted against the trunk hinges and that works fine. But it was a bit of messing around making a bracket, getting it lined up properly, etc. I thought about using a mercury tilt switch this time, but instead saw this magnetic proximity switch while in O’Reilly Auto Parts a while back, so decided to give it a try.



    Played around with several locations for the switch and after some testing found it wasn’t super critical on alignment or even proximity. If the magnet was within a quarter inch or so, it switched off. I ended up with the wired portion of the switch stuck to the bottom of the bulb seal around the trunk opening, and the magnet stuck to the underside of the trunk lid. Based on the locations, neither are particularly visible and using a VOM determined it switched on and off perfectly. I used the provided 3M emblem tape to attach each piece. That stuff is pretty robust, so hoping they stay put. I used the photo timer function on my iPhone to verify the proper locations. That’s a pretty neat trick to place stuff that’s hidden if you haven’t tried it. In this case, start the 10 second timer, lay the phone (or regular camera, iPad, whatever) in the right location, close the lid, wait for the picture to be taken, then review the results. Took a number of tries to find the right spot for both pieces. This is one of those pictures, showing the final result from inside the trunk with the lid closed.



    This is about all you can see of the switch with the lid open. Just to the right of the trunk hinge. The magnet stuck on the trunk lid is just visible, but not where it’s easily seen.



    I stuck the LED strip light along the bottom back edge of the hoop above the trunk opening. Just enough room inside the trunk hinges. Goes end-to-end. I cut off about 6-8 inches. At the cut line of course. Then wired everything up and tucked the wires behind the Weatherpack I have for the license plate wires. Works great. The switch harness has a little slide switch so you can switch the circuit off (e.g. if you have the trunk lid open for a long time and don’t want the lights on the whole time) but I didn’t do anything special with that. I can reach it if I have to, but likely not important.

    Looking from the ground up at the light strip:



    A more normal angle showing how it lights the trunk. I like it. Still on jack stands. When it's on the ground, don't expect to directly see the lights on the ends like in this pic.



    Now to get the last of the paint shop dust off the build and wheels back on.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  12. #572
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    I did something very similar, except I mounted mine in a housing, which pretty much eliminates the 'direct' view of the LED. superbrightleds.com has aluminum housings ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-housing/2039/ ) for the LED strips. I GENTLY bent one to match the hoop bend, put some 3M double sided sticky foam tape on the back, and mounted it with 3 rivets just for good measure. The LED strip goes inside the aluminum housing, and then a nice plastic lens snaps in place to protect it. I actually did the same in the front and rear of the engine compartment.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  13. #573
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    I did something very similar, except I mounted mine in a housing, which pretty much eliminates the 'direct' view of the LED. superbrightleds.com has aluminum housings ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-housing/2039/ ) for the LED strips. I GENTLY bent one to match the hoop bend, put some 3M double sided sticky foam tape on the back, and mounted it with 3 rivets just for good measure. The LED strip goes inside the aluminum housing, and then a nice plastic lens snaps in place to protect it. I actually did the same in the front and rear of the engine compartment.
    Great idea Boat737. That looks very nice and helps hide the blinding LED. Nice work

  14. #574
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    I did something very similar, except I mounted mine in a housing, which pretty much eliminates the 'direct' view of the LED. superbrightleds.com has aluminum housings ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-housing/2039/ ) for the LED strips. I GENTLY bent one to match the hoop bend, put some 3M double sided sticky foam tape on the back, and mounted it with 3 rivets just for good measure. The LED strip goes inside the aluminum housing, and then a nice plastic lens snaps in place to protect it. I actually did the same in the front and rear of the engine compartment.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    Great idea Boat737. That looks very nice and helps hide the blinding LED. Nice work
    I like the product Boat737 used as well. Looks nice. Wouldn't have fit under the hinges on mine though. The lower profile encapsulated strip I used just clears. The individual LED's won't be visible in mine when it's sitting down on the ground, as I mentioned.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  15. #575
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I like the product Boat737 used as well. Looks nice. Wouldn't have fit under the hinges on mine though. The lower profile encapsulated strip I used just clears. The individual LED's won't be visible in mine when it's sitting down on the ground, as I mentioned.
    Maybe notch the hinge a bit? or the housing a tad? Just a thought.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  16. #576
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Maybe notch the hinge a bit? or the housing a tad? Just a thought.
    Up to you. I'm not changing anything on mine. Thanks.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  17. #577
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Sneak Peak

    The build is basically complete. Title and registration are still ahead, and finalizing adjustments like alignment, ride height, etc. Plus I actually will get to really drive it! But the build is done. No more parts and no more items on the list. Everything is working as it should. Dropped it off the jack stands and next step is a trailer ride to downtown Detroit Cobo Center on Thursday morning. Today I applied a coat of Zaino (what else?) Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish. Nothing like putting on a coat of polish and wiping it off to see your paint up close. All I can say is Rick just knocked it out of the park. Here are a few sneak peak pics. Still just garage lighting and a little natural light through the windows. I had the garage door open earlier in the day (60 and sunny, record for Michigan) and the sun hitting it takes it to another level. To say I’m happy with it is an understatement.









    I’ll post some final pictures in the display from Autorama this coming weekend. Speaking of 60 degrees and sunny, cranked up #7750 and went for a nice cruise around noon. I don’t recall ever getting to do that in February. It ran and drove great like it always does. Can’t wait to do the same with #8674, but realistically that’s a couple months away at least.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  18. #578
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Looks beautiful

  19. #579
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    Congrats
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Jeff Miller. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

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    Awesome!

  21. #581
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    Amazing... Congrats Paul, good luck at the show. Cheers.

  22. #582
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    Fantastic job!

  23. #583
    Member dougski's Avatar
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    Paul,
    Several posts ago you were discussing how you replaced the fuel pump hanger with the Pro-M product. I am doing the same install and am currently trying to adapt the large gauge wires that come with the hanger to the smaller gauge wires that come from the Aeromotive fuel pump 2-pin connector. I contacted Pro-M and they said to cut the ends off their wires and solder to the connector that comes with the pump. They also went into some detail about using heat shrink tubing that is resistant to fuel and if unsure to soak the tubing overnight and check the next day. Just wanted to be sure the West Marine reducing splices that you used are fuel resistant. Thanks for the great build! I have gotten many ideas and improvements from reading. Doug
    Mk4 Roadster #8567, IRS, Levy Racing 427w Stroker, 8-stack EFI

  24. #584
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougski View Post
    Paul,
    Several posts ago you were discussing how you replaced the fuel pump hanger with the Pro-M product. I am doing the same install and am currently trying to adapt the large gauge wires that come with the hanger to the smaller gauge wires that come from the Aeromotive fuel pump 2-pin connector. I contacted Pro-M and they said to cut the ends off their wires and solder to the connector that comes with the pump. They also went into some detail about using heat shrink tubing that is resistant to fuel and if unsure to soak the tubing overnight and check the next day. Just wanted to be sure the West Marine reducing splices that you used are fuel resistant. Thanks for the great build! I have gotten many ideas and improvements from reading. Doug
    Thanks. Glad you've gotten something out of my build thread. Regarding the connectors for the fuel pump, I spent quite a while looking at options. The West Marine part #320303 step-down butt connector was the best thing I could come up with, and fortunately my (sort of...) local store had some in stock. To be completely honest, I didn't soak it overnight as they suggested. The material looked very similar to the shrink sleeving that was already used on my pump, which wasn't adhesive lined as best I could tell. I've found the West Marine stuff, since intended for marine use, is typically very robust. So I went ahead and used it without any further testing. Hopefully I won't regret that. I'm not afraid to solder, and did a bunch of it on my build, but this connector crimped on very solidly plus the shrink pulled in tight on both wires. FWIW, here a picture of the package and the leftover connector. The marking on the package is a little misleading. It says 16-14 AWG. But the part number description on-line, and the guy at the store also confirmed in their catalog, is actually AWG 12-10 to (1) 8 or (2) 12-10, which fit my wire combination perfectly.



    This question has piqued my interest though. I'm going to drop the extra connector I have into a jar of gasoline and see what it looks like tomorrow. I'll report back.
    Last edited by edwardb; 02-22-2017 at 10:06 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  25. #585
    Member dougski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Thanks. Glad you've gotten something out of my build thread. Regarding the connectors for the fuel pump, I spent quite a while looking at options. The West Marine part #320303 step-down butt connector was the best thing I could come up with, and fortunately my (sort of...) local store had some in stock. To be completely honest, I didn't soak it overnight as they suggested. The material looked very similar to the shrink sleeving that was already used on my pump, which wasn't adhesive lined as best I could tell. I've found the West Marine stuff, since intended for marine use, is typically very robust. So I went ahead and used it without any further testing. Hopefully I won't regret that. I'm not afraid to solder, and did a bunch of it on my build, but this connector crimped on very solidly plus the shrink pulled in tight on both wires. FWIW, here a picture of the package and the leftover connector. The marking on the package is a little misleading. It says 16-14 AWG. But the part number description on-line, and the guy at the store also confirmed in their catalog, is actually AWG 12-10 to (1) 8 or (2) 12-10, which fit my wire combination perfectly.

    Thanks for the part number. If I go with the West Marine part I will soak overnight and let you know what I come up with. The other option I am looking at is using a non-insulated step down butt connector from Del City and fuel resistant heat shrink from mcMaster. Doug
    Mk4 Roadster #8567, IRS, Levy Racing 427w Stroker, 8-stack EFI

  26. #586
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougski View Post
    Thanks for the part number. If I go with the West Marine part I will soak overnight and let you know what I come up with. The other option I am looking at is using a non-insulated step down butt connector from Del City and fuel resistant heat shrink from mcMaster. Doug
    That sounds like a good alternative. I was in a time crunch so forged ahead with the West Marine part. I have the spare soaking in gasoline at this moment. Shrunk a piece of wire on each end, took a "before" picture, and dunked it. I'll report back tomorrow. Hoping for my sake anyway to have good news.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  27. #587
    Member dougski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    That sounds like a good alternative. I was in a time crunch so forged ahead with the West Marine part. I have the spare soaking in gasoline at this moment. Shrunk a piece of wire on each end, took a "before" picture, and dunked it. I'll report back tomorrow. Hoping for my sake anyway to have good news.
    Glad you had another connector to test. Look forward to the results tomorrow hopefully in your favor.
    Mk4 Roadster #8567, IRS, Levy Racing 427w Stroker, 8-stack EFI

  28. #588
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougski View Post
    Glad you had another connector to test. Look forward to the results tomorrow hopefully in your favor.
    I had the West Marine part fully immersed in gasoline for 25+ hours. The good news is the sleeving itself wasn't affected. No change in shape, still slightly flexible, still gripping the wires. Looks OK. What I did learn though is obviously the adhesive is not up to the task. What was previously squeezed out the end of the sleeving is gone. Also the marking on the sleeving is gone, but no real surprise or concern there. My conclusions? Most sleeving including those specifically sold as chemical resistant won't have adhesive, so nothing lost. The sleeving itself appears to be up to the task. I don't see anything that would make me drop the tank and change to something else at this point. But if I had the choice, I would probably use chemical resistant sleeving with no adhesive from the start.

    Slightly off topic, but I wonder how much the wires and connectors are fully immersed in gasoline in the tank? Being only an inch or two below the top of the high part of the tank, does fuel even go up that high when the tank is full? Even if it did, the tank isn't full all the time. Even if not immersed in liquid the vapor would be concentrated, so maybe the same as being immersed. Doesn't change anything including the need to be fully chemical resistant. Just wondering though.

    Before:


    After:
    Last edited by edwardb; 02-23-2017 at 01:37 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  29. #589
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Looking at the before & after photos I see a pretty dramatic change...the wire on the left that was blue before soaking is now red and even more amazing is that the wire on the right that began as red has now become blue!

    I actually looked in here hoping hoping that Paul posted some Autorama set up pics

    Jeff

  30. #590
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Looking at the before & after photos I see a pretty dramatic change...the wire on the left that was blue before soaking is now red and even more amazing is that the wire on the right that began as red has now become blue!

    I actually looked in here hoping hoping that Paul posted some Autorama set up pics

    Jeff
    Yea, amazing how those wires changed colors like that. But wasn't testing the wires, so didn't point it out.

    The new Roadster is parked at its display in Cobo Center hall as of about 10:00 AM this morning. They were rushing us in and out of there and another group waiting to set up behind us. So barely could catch our breath and I didn't have a chance to take any pictures. I'll take some tomorrow and post. I promise.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-03-2017 at 06:19 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  31. #591
    Member dougski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I had the West Marine part fully immersed in gasoline for 25+ hours. The good news is the sleeving itself wasn't affected. No change in shape, still slightly flexible, still gripping the wires. Looks OK. What I did learn though is obviously the adhesive is not up to the task. What was previously squeezed out the end of the sleeving is gone. Also the marking on the sleeving is gone, but no real surprise or concern there. My conclusions? Most sleeving including those specifically sold as chemical resistant won't have adhesive, so nothing lost. The sleeving itself appears to be up to the task. I don't see anything that would make me drop the tank and change to something else at this point. But if I had the choice, I would probably use chemical resistant sleeving with no adhesive from the start.

    Slightly off topic, but I wonder how much the wires and connectors are fully immersed in gasoline in the tank? Being only an inch or two below the top of the high part of the tank, does fuel even go up that high when the tank is full? Even if it did, the tank isn't full all the time. Even if not immersed in liquid the vapor would be concentrated, so maybe the same as being immersed. Doesn't change anything including the need to be fully chemical resistant. Just wondering though.

    Before:


    After:
    Thanks for posting the results. Glad you do not have to drop the tank again.

    Enjoy the show.
    Doug
    Mk4 Roadster #8567, IRS, Levy Racing 427w Stroker, 8-stack EFI

  32. #592
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    Paul-

    Good luck with the show. I look forward to checking out your pictures!

    Your car looks amazing, as I have shared before. I admire your craftsmanship and attention to detail. I know she will be well received at the show!

    Regards,

    Steve

  33. #593
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Detroit Autorama 2017 Pictures

    We completed move-in yesterday, and today have everything set and polished. Show doesn't officially open for another hour, but there are a bunch of people here already. My location on the show floor is "OK" but not as good as the past. I have a vendor display on each side of me. But we're here and ready for three days, and I enjoy it a lot. With no commentary, here are a bunch of pictures. The floor is the Race Deck out of my old garage that I haven't had a chance to install in the new house yet. Worked out well and I didn't have to rent carpet. The stanchions are from a fellow Great Lakes Cobra Club member, who made them up a couple years ago for his display. The bases are disk rotors, the posts are cams from a Terminator (not Coyote, but I'll make due...) and the tops he had made. Very cool and fitting for the display. Enjoy!













    Last edited by edwardb; 03-03-2017 at 06:21 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  34. #594
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Detroit Autorama 2017 Pictures continued













    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  35. #595
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Detroit Autorama 2017 Pictures continued



    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  36. #596
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    Edwardb,

    Beautiful car and well displayed. Nice uprights! Enjoy.

    Len
    1972 Corvette Stingray 350 c.i. Manual Steering & Brakes
    2003 H-D Softail Deuce 88 c.i. TwinCam
    Gen 3 Coupe Dreamer

  37. #597
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    Looks amazing Paul, Thanks for all the detail of your build up to this point. Jim
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Jeff Miller. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

  38. #598
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    Now thats really impressive. You have to be thrilled Paul
    Now that you're done what are you going to do with all your free time! Cheers

  39. #599
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    Great looking car, awesome display!

  40. #600
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Looks amazing Paul. Hope you are having a great time at the show.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

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