ISIS Power

Visit our community sponsor

Page 12 of 17 FirstFirst ... 21011121314 ... LastLast
Results 441 to 480 of 646

Thread: EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

  1. #441
    Hey Paul, Wanted to you wish you and your family a Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks again for all the time you take to keep you post up to date. It's been a huge help. Enjoy the day. Cheers Paul

  2. #442
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_M View Post
    Hey Paul, Wanted to you wish you and your family a Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks again for all the time you take to keep you post up to date. It's been a huge help. Enjoy the day. Cheers Paul
    Thanks! Appreciate the good wishes. Same back to you. We had a nice visit with parents and family in Oregon last week, and an early Thanksgiving feast with everyone last Sunday. It was a special time. We all have a lot to be thankful for.

    Picked up the last parts at the powder coater yesterday and working to get them installed. 25 days until the build has to be at the painter. Shouldn't be a problem but I need to keep making progress. Miss my heated garage at the old house. Heating (and maybe cooling...) the new garage is on my to-do list, but won't be too soon unfortunately. Too many other projects ahead of it. The basement workshop is nice and warm though. I'll survive.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  3. #443
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Thanks! Appreciate the good wishes. Same back to you. We had a nice visit with parents and family in Oregon last week, and an early Thanksgiving feast with everyone last Sunday. It was a special time. We all have a lot to be thankful for.

    Picked up the last parts at the powder coater yesterday and working to get them installed. 25 days until the build has to be at the painter. Shouldn't be a problem but I need to keep making progress. Miss my heated garage at the old house. Heating (and maybe cooling...) the new garage is on my to-do list, but won't be too soon unfortunately. Too many other projects ahead of it. The basement workshop is nice and warm though. I'll survive.
    Still not sure why you didn't take my up on the offer to keep 7750 in my garage this winter while you get everything taken care of at the new house. 70 degrees here today. At least your car wouldn't have been cold! haha
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  4. #444
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Still not sure why you didn't take my up on the offer to keep 7750 in my garage this winter while you get everything taken care of at the new house. 70 degrees here today. At least your car wouldn't have been cold! haha
    There's a pretty simple way to get #7750 to stay warm in your garage. It is for sale you know.

    On a slightly more serious note, I do plan to more actively advertise it and get it sold next year. That Gen 3 Coupe looks very interesting.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  5. #445
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Final Assembly Update

    Away from home for 10 days visiting family in Oregon. While I was gone, the rest of my powder coated parts were completed. That’s it for powder coat finally. Nothing terribly exciting here. I’m either installing for the (hopefully) last time, or doing the final mock-up then will install for good after paint.

    First up is the radiator shroud and screen I fabricated and showed in a previous update. Initially I was going to use the same silver-grey Anniversary color for the powder coat, but at the last minute decided on gloss black to give the radiator opening a blacked out appearance. Did one last assembly check on the bench, clearing powder coat as needed from holes, threads, etc. Plus final fit of the bulb seal. Several asked the last time around if it is installed assembled like this. Big no. It will only go in one piece at a time.



    Now installed. The camera flash makes the silver radiator stand out a bit. In natural light, it almost disappears. As I mentioned in a previous update, the bottom panel is wedged inside the body and attached to the bottom edge of the radiator and through the Breeze lower radiator support with three 6-32 bolts. There are no rivets through the top of the radiator opening like the stock setup. The sides are also wedged in place between the radiator and bulb seal against the body. There is a 10-32 bolt into a nutsert at the very top on each side, and two 10-32 bolts into nutserts on each side into a bracket attached to the bottom panel. The sides completely cover the quick jack mounts and pretty much seal the radiator opening. The screen is held in place with a 10-32 bolt into nutserts on each corner. It's about 1 inch away from the radiator and should protect it well. I have the screen in place for this pic, but will remove until after paint and replace with the cardboard piece I keep over the radiator.



    The rear splash panels are powder coated the silver-grey Anniversary color, but I did mask off and spray undercoat on the sides facing the tires. Looks better in the long run blacked out like that, plus cuts down the racket a bit with stuff hitting the panels. I sprayed on Lizard Skin TopCoat (their part number 30106). The same stuff I sprayed over the heat and sound Lizard Skin on the underside of the transmission tunnel cover. It’s not real thick, but seems tough and goes on really nice. I’ll put the same material on the front splash guards later. This is the passenger side. The driver side looks about the same. The hidden bolts I'm using for the tabs on the back of the splash panels are working out great. Holds the panels firmly in place and I like not seeing the bolts showing through on the body.



    These are the filler panels I made for the gap in the front of the rear wheel wells. Now powder coated, bulb seal, and installed with more matching painted rivets. Can’t be too neat in there. Passenger side here. Driver side also looks about the same.



    I have the radiator cowl cover piece all ready to install, but decided to wait until after paint to final rivet it in place. Checked the fit and all looks good.

    Topside:



    Looking up through the radiator opening showing how it seals against the underside of the body with bulb seal:



    I did run into one slight problem. I bought a front radiator splitter from Dark Water Customs for #7750. I don’t really think it has any practical purpose at normal cruising speed (or maybe at any speed) but I like the look vs. the round bumper hoop in the front. I decided to duplicate the same thing on this build, but parts weren’t available from Dark Water. I happened to see one come up in the classifieds, so grabbed it. I got a good deal, so not complaining, but turns out it must be an older one because it didn’t fit. Too wide. With the brackets on the quick jack bolts, the splitter was over an inch wider than the mounting locations. Considered several possibilities including leaving it out. But being the stubborn sort determined to make it work. It’s a pretty simple assembly with a frame using round tube on the front and square tube on the back. A piece of aluminum is wrapped around and riveted along the back. I drilled out the rivets, removed the aluminum, and then cut the frame in half. With some J-B Weld (what else?) and a couple rivets, put 6-inch round and square stubs halfway into one side. McMaster had some stock that matched the ID's with just a little persuasion. Then took the extra length out of the other side and mocked up in the radiator opening. This picture is at that halfway point:



    The frame pieces bowed in a bit when cut, but it’s all trimmed and back together now. I’ll trim the aluminum wrap and rivet it back in place. But before I do, will put a full polish on the aluminum like I did on #7750. Will be easier off the frame without the mounting brackets in the way while polishing.

    Tomorrow I’m going to start on finishing all the body work, hinges, latches, hood scoop, etc. It’s due at paint three weeks from today. Don’t see any issue with it being ready.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-29-2016 at 08:20 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  6. #446
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    175
    Driverís side footbox from the engine compartment. Several things here. The inside wall, inside top and cover, and small fill piece are 2bkingís designed Coyote modded panels and supplied to me by another very generous forum member. I mentioned these before. I was able to get them to fit quite nicely. The firewall is also his layout, which I fabbed out of .090 inch aluminum. The front panel is also a piece I made. Factory Five powder coated the Mustang footbox panel instead of the Wilwood footbox panel, which a couple other Anniversary kit buyers also found. Upon further review, I found that if I made a couple minor tweaks to the front panel, the other modded panels fit a little better. That was all the excuse I needed. So I made a new one, and without the clutch or wire harness holes, and also shrunk down the steering column hole since I have the bearing mounted on the inside. Looks nice and clean. A lot of messing around for something that is basically unseen once the build is done. But I like it. Iíll need to punch a couple holes for the front harness and brake lines when the time comes and I determine the exact locations.



    I noticed that you added the threaded interest to make the top cover of the DS foot box removable. Did you omit the inserts on the top rear of the cover because they will not be accessible when the body is on?
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  7. #447
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    I noticed that you added the threaded interest to make the top cover of the DS foot box removable. Did you omit the inserts on the top rear of the cover because they will not be accessible when the body is on?
    -Steve
    Yes, the upper rear of the cover isn't quite as accessible once the body is on. I decided it stayed in place and sealed fine without fasteners in that area. I have several thick layers of Lizard Skin on the back side of the cover, masked to fit exactly into the opening. Acts sort of like a gasket. This pic later in the build is a similar view with the body on and the access cover removed. You can see how those would be harder to reach. Not impossible, but I just chose not to put anything there.

    Last edited by edwardb; 11-30-2016 at 08:27 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  8. #448
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Final Assembly Continues

    Marching my way toward the Dec 19 paint date. A lot of the details I’m describing are re-runs from my last builds. Especially #7750. But I’ll post anyway since I know a number are following this thread.

    Finished gapping the doors. I’m happy with how they fit except for the driver door front lower corner. Maybe the Mk5 that will finally get that fixed. Been around for at least two Mk’s now. Still have to install the door latches, but moved to the final gap on the hood. Temporarily taped a number of bumpers around the inside edge of the body, using varying thicknesses to get the hood level with the body. After 3-4 times on and off the hinges, marking and trimming each time, I’m happy with how it fits. Nice even gap all around. Also rounded the edge slightly, but didn’t go crazy with it. The profile match of the hood to the body is probably the best of my builds to date. Nice.

    Hood scoop and hood latches were next. I already had the ABS scoop prepped as shown in a previous update. First up is to find the center of the hood and determine the location for the scoop. I like to use a laser level on a tripod. I set it up so it puts down a line from the oil cooler opening all the way over to the trunk lid. Doing this you find the body isn’t completely symmetrical. But with the line across the hood and checking with a tape measure, you can find the best compromise. Since I’ll be doing stripes, it’s even more important to get the scoop in exactly the right place.





    With the centerline on the hood using a Sharpie, now to cut the hole and mount the scoop. Here is where I strongly suggest deviating from the FF instructions. I’ve read several threads where guys have cut the hole in their hood using the provided dimensions and then mounted the scoop. With sometimes bad surprises. Really not good. Instead, find the location for the scoop, drill all the mounting holes. Then use the mounting holes to determine where to cut. Aside from preventing any huge disasters, it looks better IMO to have the underside opening closely follow the outline of the mounting bolts.

    First position the scoop the proper distance from the back of the hood, the rear center hole exactly on the hood center line, and the front corners the same exact distance from the center line. These visual cues really come into play with the stripes. Drill the holes a few at a time on each side adding bolts as you go, paying close attention that it’s staying flat and in the right location.



    When done, remove the scoop and flip it over. Now lay out the cut based on the hole pattern. I put the cutout about 3/4-inch away from the holes, and roughly followed the curve at the back and a radius on the front corners.



    Now cut and trim to the line. The instructions say to use a jig saw. I tried this a bit on my last build and even with the finest and sharpest blade I had, still chipped the gel coat. So switched to a Dremel with a cut-off wheel, which is what I did here. Then cleaned up the edges with drum sanders in my hand drill. Same as a lot of the body work. Once the edges were clean and straight, pushed HSRF down into the gap between the outer and inner hood layers. Took a couple passes to get it clean and straight. Hint: I see some guys using clamps or whatever to pull the top and bottom together. Suggest not doing that. Just let the two sides lay naturally and fill. It’s going to look better without any waves or curves.



    Bolted on the scoop and it’s done for now. I’m using 10-32 SS button head screws like many others and also my last build. Nylon washers on the inside. I’ll replace these regular nuts with SS cap nuts at final assembly.

    Last edited by edwardb; 12-03-2016 at 01:57 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  9. #449
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Final Assembly Continues (continued)

    Next up are the hood latches. I mount them 12 inches each side of the center line. I donít remember what the instructions say. But this dimension is from some build threads a number of years ago. They need to be far enough out to make sure the corner of the hood is pulled down. Iím not a fan of the provided self-tapping screws holding the handles into the top layer of the hood. To be honest, Iím not a fan of self-tapping screws for much of anything. I always prefer machine bolts into metal threads of some kind. Especially in this case because these handles get lots of use lifting and lowering the hood. Some guys put bolts all the way through with washers and nuts on the back of the hood. Certainly strong enough. But the best location for the handle isnít exactly centered over the rib on the underside, so they end up a little close to one edge. Plus the hardware is exposed. Instead, I like to bond a nut plate underneath the top layer of the hood. These are the same McMaster 98001A125 10-32 nut plates Iíve used elsewhere on the build. First cut the necessary holes and slots at the handle locations. Then bond the nut plates with HSRF under the mounting locations. Works really well.



    The other thing I like to do with the hood handle is to support where the shaft comes out of the rib on the back of the hood with a bushing, as seen in the above pic. Instead of just having it clear through the raw fiberglass. Does two things. Looks a lot more finished. But more importantly gives cantilever like support to the whole handle assembly and shaft. Noticeably improves how the handle feels with no wobble. To install, I had the handles bolted in place with a clearance hole on the back side. Then put a little HSRF on the flange of the bushings and pushed into place over the latch shaft. When the HSRF set, removed the handles and added more HSRF in the inside. They're not going anywhere and line up perfectly. This is how it looks on the inside of the hood. Will get painted over and look nice and clean.



    The hood is done and back on the car.



    A little more work to install the brackets for the catches on the hood opening. Then the trunk lid.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  10. #450
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Another Final Assembly Update

    One week until delivery for paint, and just a few things left on my list. I have the hood, trunk, and doors now officially done and fitted. Good thing. It’s been too cold outside so I’ve been doing some sanding in the basement and tired of cleaning up the dust. Thankfully that’s now done. I’m happy with how the gaps all turned out and how everything fits. I tried to tighten the gaps just a bit from #7750. Those turned out OK, but figured I could improve on them a little. I set the gaps on the new build unfinished the same as #7750 is finished. Once filled and painted, should be a bit closer and what I am shooting for. I put a pretty large radius on the underside front edges of the doors and trunk lid. This will help to prevent any interference when opening and closing. Not necessary to do anything special on the hood as the geometry of the hinges lifts it out of the opening with room to spare. The build looks like this as of late yesterday:



    Much of what I’m doing now is pretty routine. But I’ll outline a couple of special things I did. As can be seen in the picture above, I’m going with dual roll bars. Nothing too noteworthy here. These are the chromed Mk4 rolls bars from Factory Five. One came with the kit, the other I added. I know dual roll bars are not faithful to the originals (and some really don’t like them) but caved to the many questions I’ve received in the past about why I don’t care about my passenger. Ok, I do care for my passengers, but that's not the real reason. The real reason is someday I may get enough nerve to do some track time and most places won’t allow an instructor without the second roll bar. They installed pretty easily. The factory cutouts on the DS were pretty close. Just needed a little tweaking. The marks for the PS were in the ballpark, but I just took it slow and easy until they fit through with a little clearance. I’ve got Tangent blind attachments in each. I had previously fit the roll bars to the mounts and got all the holes drilled before mounting the body. Way easier then. Made this final step pretty easy.



    I showed the hood latches in the last update. The remaining step was to add the aluminum catches on the underside of the hood opening. The kit provides a couple of pieces that work OK. But some years ago I saw an idea in another build thread about cutting a profile into the catches that matches the top profile of the hood latch. Gives them a nice snap when they’re turned into place and they stay centered. I’ve done that on each of my builds. Takes a bit larger piece of aluminum angle stock. I used 1 by 1 inch angle, 2 inches long. Mounted them on the underside of the hood opening just behind the inside of the hood opening lip. Then determined where the latch would hit at that point, and cut the profile as pictured. It works really well. Thank you to whoever had that idea. The other thing I do is bolt them on now, burying the head of the bolts in the hood lip with a layer of HSRF. Then the bolts will be hidden when painted.



    Next up was the trunk lid. Much like what I already showed with the hood hinge attachments, I like to bond the trunk hinge attachments in place with HSRF and the provided hardware and then paint over. Looks a lot cleaner and more finished. So after fitting the trunk lid and adjusting the hinges, bonded the attachments to the underside of the lid. Note the adjustment of these pieces is only side-to-side. So once they’re in the right location and the lid centered, they don’t need to be adjusted any further. It’s safe to lock them down. The actual hinges allow all the further adjustment necessary. Once bonded in place, I fill the slots with HSRF as well and add a little filet around the edges. Look nice once painted.

    Last edited by edwardb; 12-11-2016 at 07:41 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  11. #451
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Another Final Assembly Update (continued)

    With the trunk lid trimmed and fitted, the hinges installed and adjusted, I installed the handle and catch rod in the stock locations. All worked well and the trunk pulled into the opening perfectly. Nice. Another decision for the trunk lid is some kind of prop rod to hold it open. Well, unless you like dropping it on your fingers or (worse yet) your head. I’ve tried it. Don’t do it. I’ve used Mike Everson’s gas shocks on my last two builds. The Mk3 design with external trunk hinges went between the front trunk opening and the underside of the lid. Those worked well, but took up a little space in the trunk. The Mk4 design with internal trunk hinges presses on the hinges from the rear cockpit wall. Many use these and are very happy with them. But I was never particularly happy with how they work in #7750. They cause the lid to be pushed slightly above the opening, and no matter how low I adjust the hinges, I can't get it quite right. Note that build is a fairly early Mk4 with the round style hinges. Maybe the newer style square hinges in this build would be better. But I decided not to use gas struts and instead went with the old school style latching prop from Finishline. Found a few threads that described where and how to install, and pretty much followed that. Another option would be a manual prop rod like from Breeze or others, but I wanted something a little more automatic.

    I drilled out the rivet on the lower mounting bracket and put it on the other side so it was oriented toward the trunk lip. I replaced the rivet with a 1/4-inch shoulder bolt from (where else) McMaster. Liked it so much I replaced the rivet on the top bracket as well. I adjusted the angle of the lower bracket a bit until the arm hit the right spot on the lid. The material bends pretty easily in a bench vise. Then bolted the bracket to the lip of the trunk opening. These also are bonded in with HSRF and will get painted over. Note the bumpers taped in place are just temporary. I'll install bulb seal around the trunk opening after paint, fitted around this attachment point.



    For the attachment point on the lid, I didn’t think just putting self-tapping screws into the lid liner would be strong enough. So I made a little plate from mild steel with two 10-32 tapped holes.



    Took a little practicing, but found I could fish it into the right place through the center access hole using a piece of wire and some double back tape. Put some HSRF on it, and put it in place permanently on the underside of the liner. Should be nice and strong.



    Here’s the prop rod completely installed. I’m happy with how it turned out. It works as expected.



    Finally, did the door latches. This is pretty routine. I bonded the spacers to the doors with HSRF. (Catch a theme here?) They too will get painted in place. I installed nutserts in the metal liner that's under the glass skin. So the door latches will be nice and solid. I did the same thing on #7750 and went fine. This time around though on both doors the lower outside hole (RH bottom in this pic) ended up directly over where the underside metal bends and turns down. So I installed a blind mounting nut (or T-nut as we used to call them) on the underside of the spacer. It’s all buried in the HSRF and the spacer isn’t going anywhere with the bond plus the other three through bolts. But added some time to what was supposed to be a simple task.



    This is one of the door latches installed. I’ll replace the stacked washers with a spacer during final assembly after paint and everything is finally adjusted. I post this picture mainly to pass on a tip about how to easily install these latches. For my first build I really struggled first installing the catch and then trying to align the latch on the door. Then I read on the forum (Jeff Kleiner maybe?) to (1) Clip the latch in the catch, (2) Loosely bolt the catch in the door frame, using washers as needed, (3) Then close the fitted door against the latch base, adjusting the catch until it sits flat in the right location. Mark this location on the door, and attach to the door. Works great.



    Last picture and again nothing too earthshaking. Here I’m fitting and installing the sill pieces. The significance though is my box of aluminum parts is now officially empty. That’s it. Last pieces.



    Today a good buddy dropped over to check out my build, plus see our new place and return some borrowed tools. I hadn’t started the Coyote for quite a few weeks. But of course I had to start it for him. It started instantly like always it seems and sounds great. I’m just so impressed with it, now that I’m past the challenge of getting it installed. Can’t wait to really drive it. On a side note we also found out the CO detector in my garage works as designed. The piercing alarm sound reminded us to open the garage door.

    My next update should be dropping the build at the painter. Whoo-hoo!
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-11-2016 at 07:48 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  12. #452
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    615
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    That Gen 3 Coupe looks very interesting.
    Oh please don't start the gen3 coupe too soon. I'm having difficulty keeping up with you as it is!!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017
    Build Thread

  13. #453
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Oh please don't start the gen3 coupe too soon. I'm having difficulty keeping up with you as it is!!
    A coupe build, if it happens, wouldn't be until later next year. You have plenty of time to catch up. Even though it's not a race...

    You know, it does go faster if you don't cut the body in half.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  14. #454
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    A coupe build, if it happens, wouldn't be until later next year. You have plenty of time to catch up. Even though it's not a race...

    You know, it does go faster if you don't cut the body in half.

    LOL! Wait to you see what Kevin has planned for the Gen 3 build. 6 piece body that somehow transforms into a '74 Bronco
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  15. #455
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Fayetteville WV
    Posts
    163
    It would be interesting to see Edwardb work his magic on a Gen 3 coupe. Be a great build to follow.
    1972 Corvette Stingray 350 c.i. Manual Steering & Brakes
    2003 H-D Softail Deuce 88 c.i. TwinCam
    Gen 3 Coupe Dreamer

  16. #456
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    175
    First order of business is the screen. I'm using a 3641-24X36 medium mesh stainless screen, #6 x .035 wire, 24 x 36" sheet, from Pegasus Racing. I'm making a frame out of 1/8 x 3/4 inch aluminum stock from Lowes using a fixture I made during the last build. I'll get this riveted together, trimmed, and then make the bottom and side pieces. More to come.



    Paul,
    Are you sandwiching the screen between two frames or just riveting the screen to the 4 pieces of frame in view? Looks like the 4 frame pieces butt up against each other with the screen keeping it all together? Looks great, BTW.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  17. #457
    Mustang Convert bansheekev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Morgan Hill, CA
    Posts
    340
    I shamelessly used Paul's design last year to make a radiator screen. It sandwiches the screen between the two aluminum frames. I used the same materially as Paul except my frames are tig welded together. See below...

    IMG_1570.JPG

    Btw, took the summer off from the Bronco project, finally getting going again! Look for an update in the next couple weeks!

    Kevin
    Last edited by bansheekev; 12-13-2016 at 09:14 AM.
    MKIV, IRS/TruTrack/3.55s, Coyote, TKO600, Wilwoods
    Delivered: 1/6/2012
    First Start: 1/19/2014
    First Go-Kart: 2/1/2014
    Graduation: 1/4/2015
    Graduation Thread

  18. #458
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Paul, Are you sandwiching the screen between two frames or just riveting the screen to the 4 pieces of frame in view? Looks like the 4 frame pieces butt up against each other with the screen keeping it all together? Looks great, BTW. -Steve
    Quote Originally Posted by bansheekev View Post
    I shamelessly used Paul's design last year to make a radiator screen. It sandwiches the screen between the two aluminum frames. I used the same materially as Paul except my frames are tug welded together. Kevin
    Kevin is correct. Two frames with the screen sandwiched between. I see now that wasn't obvious from the pictures or text I posted. Also not obvious is I did a lap joint on the corners. The top frame (visible in the pic) has the vertical pieces go all the way to the bottom. The bottom layer (not visible) has the horizontal pieces go all the way to the outside. I have a rivet through the lapped area in the top corners. The lower corners have a through bolt that also holds the assembly in place. Hope this all makes sense.

    Welding like Kevin did is a great idea. Unfortunately, that's something I've never done or learned. Need to think about that some day.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-12-2016 at 07:45 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  19. #459
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    175
    ......So that will be my strategy from the start the next time around. I used Remflex gaskets on the headers and a combination of studs on the hard to reach locations and cap screws for the balance. Really hope thatís all set for a real long time. PS header added after the engine was in its final location. Pretty easy to reach all the bolts on that side.....

    I used Whitby 3/8-inch spacers under both motor mounts. Itís very close to level, with the PS being just slightly lower than the DS

    Sorry to bother you with little stuff but I have a few questions from this excerpt. Ford lists the manifold studs as M10. Do you know pitch that goes with the diameter designation? Not familiar with metric fasteners. I guess the real question is what cap screws did you use to replace the studs.
    Is there a specific Remflex gasket you used?
    How any of the 3/8" spacers are used?
    Thanks,
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  20. #460
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Sorry to bother you with little stuff but I have a few questions from this excerpt. Ford lists the manifold studs as M10. Do you know pitch that goes with the diameter designation? Not familiar with metric fasteners. I guess the real question is what cap screws did you use to replace the studs.
    Is there a specific Remflex gasket you used?
    How any of the 3/8" spacers are used?
    Thanks,
    -Steve
    No need to apologize. These things are all about the details... My header bolts were M10 Thread, 1.25mm Pitch. In addition to the several Ford stock studs that I used on the DS, the rest I used McMaster 96144A261 Metric Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw M10 Thread, 30mm Long, 1.25mm Pitch installed with high temp silicone on the threads. My only caution is to make sure that is really the right size for your engine. FF mentions in their Coyote installation instructions that Ford used different size bolts in some engines. The specific header gasket I used was Remflex Inc. 3069 from Summit Racing. Seemed to fit perfectly. For the engine spacers, I started with one Whitby 3/8-inch spacer on each motor mount. But later in the build thread, noted where I removed those and replaced with the 1/2-inch spacers now available from Factory Five. Instead of sitting on top of the motor mount, they are assembled inside the motor mounts. Vastly superior IMO and worked great.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  21. #461
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Paint Delivery and Start

    Big day yesterday. Successfully delivered the build to the painter and we’re off and running on that big step. First a couple minor updates.

    On my last two builds, I installed transmission tunnel vents supplied by simple scoops inside the tunnel. I found this idea back on my first build on the Mk4build.com website. The transmission tunnel has positive air pressure and when the car is moving, the vents can provide fresh air into the footboxes. It seems counterintuitive, but in many (most?) cases the air is ambient temperature. Perhaps not as effective or as much volume as powered vents. But certainly way simpler to install. This mod has been discussed some on the forum. Some with good success and it worked as expected. Others found the air heated or even quite hot. My experience has been slightly mixed. On the Mk3, both vents provided ambient air and worked great. On #7750, the DS is ambient and fine. The PS is just slightly warm (not hot) and actually my wife likes it most of the time. I went back and forth on this build deciding whether I wanted to install them. It seems with the very large Coyote installation and headers maybe more likely the air would be heated. But I decided to go ahead and give them a try. We’ll see what happens. Worst case they’re cheap heaters that I can plug with a piece of foam when not needed. I used Billet Specialties 38110 vents and homemade scoops that I had powder coated. I cut the top off the vent tubes and glued them into carefully located holes in the tunnel. Then riveted the scoops on the inside. Finally, threaded the bezels into the threaded tubes. The bezels will be temporarily removed to install the carpet.

    Driver’s side:



    Passenger side:



    Another small detail is the rear license plate holder. I did the Jeff Kleiner mod to the rear light to allow a full size license plate to fit between the holder and the trunk handle. Shown in an earlier update along with changing to LED bulbs. There is yet another thread on this subject (with a lot of complaining. I was tempted to post the beat a dead horse GIF, but I resisted…) but one forum member posted a drawing of a bracket that I liked a lot better than the plate I made for #7750 that provided new mounting holes for the license plate above the existing ones. Still need to finish a couple details and decide how to finish. Just barely seen, but I likely will polish it. We’ll see. Looks like this right now. I especially like it because the license plate bolts go into threaded holes. Saves trying to thread nuts onto the back side, which is tight plus also right against the paint. I made it from some 3/16-inch aluminum I had on hand.

    Last edited by edwardb; 12-20-2016 at 10:22 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  22. #462
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Paint Delivery and Start (continued)

    So moving on to paint, several days ago I completed my “before paint” punch list, took everything off that needed to come off, and I was ready to transport to the shop.



    My SE trailer has been sitting in the driveway and the recipient of several snowstorms and lots of cold weather. Took some time on Sunday to dig it out. Then yesterday, with the temp just above zero, got it hitched up and the new build loaded. I scraped my driveway as best I could. The car drove into the trailer pretty OK, but did my first official burn out in the process. Snow/ice assisted of course.



    40 miles down to the shop, and fortunately they had enough room for an inside delivery. That was a nice treat. They were ready for me, and had me take it directly into the booth. Nice! Rick, who will be painting my car, is on the left in this picture. Still smiling. That’s good. The car drew quite a crowd as I drove it in. Open headers will do that. What a beautiful clean shop they have.



    As I was wrapping up ready to leave, I could see Rick was already starting to work. By the end of the day, he texted some pictures. Here are a couple:





    They’re painting it “body on” as I mentioned before. He said he would do his best to keep dust and whatever out of everything, so has it wrapped up as the first step. Promise is 3-4 weeks to complete. I feel good about this timeline. We’re rocking now!
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-20-2016 at 11:24 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  23. #463
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Fayetteville WV
    Posts
    163
    Nice. Another milestone reached. Red?
    1972 Corvette Stingray 350 c.i. Manual Steering & Brakes
    2003 H-D Softail Deuce 88 c.i. TwinCam
    Gen 3 Coupe Dreamer

  24. #464
    Very excited for you!
    Hopefully Rick keeps the pictures coming through the process.
    Did you explain your amazingly high standards for documenting the build?

  25. #465
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Vette1972 View Post
    Nice. Another milestone reached. Red?
    Is there another color? It will be the same candy red as #7750, with a slight difference.

    Quote Originally Posted by RRussellTx View Post
    Very excited for you!
    Hopefully Rick keeps the pictures coming through the process.
    Did you explain your amazingly high standards for documenting the build?
    I told him I would really appreciate pics along the way, and he didn't disappoint for the first day. I'm pretty confident I'll get many more. If not, I'll be asking for them...
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  26. #466
    Wow sure is exciting to see it in the paint both. Look forward to picture updates along the way!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  27. #467
    Senior Member RR20AC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Puyallup/WA
    Posts
    130
    Paul, very exciting seeing it off to paint. Thanks for all the details.
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts.

  28. #468
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    1,475
    Paul-

    Very nice, I am excited for you! It's also nice that you know what kind of work to expect. That sure must offer you some comfort.

    I, like the others, look forward to in progress pictures. Red is sure a nice color, and I look forward to your surprise!

    Merry Christmas to you and your family!

    Regards,

    Steve

  29. #469
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    Paint Progress Pics

    2-1/2 days into paint and I've been getting a steady stream of update pics. Here are just a few of them. Making nice progress. Parting lines are all ground down, filled, and rough sanded. Body matching and filling is underway. Doors, trunk, and hood filled and rough sanded. Including the dreaded DS door. Shop is shut down until next Tuesday for Christmas, but feeling really good about how things are going. Tomorrow I'm mailing my Detroit Autorama application. Show is end of February, and looks favorable to be ready in time. Merry Christmas everyone!









    Last edited by edwardb; 12-22-2016 at 12:54 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  30. #470
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Espanola, Ontario
    Posts
    161
    They’re painting it “body on” as I mentioned before. He said he would do his best to keep dust and whatever out of everything, so has it wrapped up as the first step. Promise is 3-4 weeks to complete. I feel good about this timeline. We’re rocking now![/QUOTE]

    After a 12 page meg blog, outlining detail detail detail, there must be a good reason for NOT taking the body off for the paint.

  31. #471
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    After a 12 page meg blog, outlining detail detail detail, there must be a good reason for NOT taking the body off for the paint.
    Not sure what you mean exactly.

    But FWIW, this shop has done them both ways -- body off and body on -- an prefers body on. They believe it preserves the alignment achieved when fitting and installing the body and panels and doing the body work. Plus prevents handling the painted body off the chassis. My first two were body off and they went back on fine. And I know it's the most common approach. But that's what they wanted to do and I've seen others they did that way and they turned out great.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-22-2016 at 05:12 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  32. #472
    Paul. Wishing u and the family along with all the other fellow builders a Merry Christmas, happy holidays and a all the best for 2017. I'm certainly grateful to have the opportunity to undertake this build and can't thank you enough for the detailed posts. They certainly given me lots of ideas and help. Cheers Paul

  33. #473
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_M View Post
    Paul. Wishing u and the family along with all the other fellow builders a Merry Christmas, happy holidays and a all the best for 2017. I'm certainly grateful to have the opportunity to undertake this build and can't thank you enough for the detailed posts. They certainly given me lots of ideas and help. Cheers Paul
    Thanks for the kind words Paul. The response to this build thread has been pretty amazing and it's been fun to share the experience. I'm expecting 2017 to start strong with the completion of this build.

    Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  34. #474
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    More Paint Progress Pics

    My painter is doing a great job of texting me pictures as the paint job is progressing. Received these pics today of progress made since starting back up after the Christmas break.

    He promised he would do everything possible to keep everything clean as possible. Even has the underside masked off.



    Final fill and panel matching.





    PPG DP90 epoxy primer.





    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  35. #475
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160

    More Paint Progress Pics (continued)

    High build polyester primer/surfacer, just put on late today.









    I couldn't be more pleased with how it's looking so far. Rick is doing an amazing job. Panel matching, doors, etc. all look really good. He said now several days of block sanding, then hopefully the finish primer. Then maybe we'll see some color.

    I submitted my Detroit Autorama application. It's in late February. It will be tight, but should be ready by then. I've shown the other two builds there and really enjoyed it. Looking forward to having this build there. It's an amazing show if you're in the area. There are similar shows all over the country in this series, but the Detroit show is the big one including the Riddler award competition.

    I have all the remaining parts ready to put on the build when it comes back from paint. Everything is staged and I've pretty much run out of things to do until I get it back. In the meantime, I'm filling my time doing the demolition of our master bedroom and bathroom in preparation for the contractor to do our remodel hopefully starting soon. I figured a little sweat equity tearing stuff out wouldn't hurt. Busted up a cast iron tub the other day. Now have the bathroom nearly to the studs. Tomorrow I'm going to break out the Sawzall and a wall is coming down. This is pretty hard work for my office hardened body. I'm ready for this to be done and get back on the build!
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-30-2016 at 12:03 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  36. #476


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    2,635
    Wow, not even pulling the moving panels (doors, hood and trunk lid). I'm intrigued and will be watching to see how the undersides/insides/jambs are addressed.

    Jeff

  37. #477
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Wow, not even pulling the moving panels (doors, hood and trunk lid). I'm intrigued and will be watching to see how the undersides/insides/jambs are addressed.

    Jeff
    Hey Jeff. I was wondering the same thing myself last night when looking at the pics. I'm pretty sure the hood and trunk are loose, so maybe they were done on the backside and then set back into place. I'm not as sure about the doors. It's something I'll ask about, but very confident Rick knows what he's doing.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  38. #478
    Build is looking beautiful !! It looks like that shop, must be run meticulous. Matches your build. Gotta say your build threads have been very helpful. My vote is you should rewrite the next Factory Five Manuals as your next big project. Id buy it thumb.jpg

  39. #479
    Even though my build is complete, I would pay big bucks for a copy of Paul's forum submissions to have as a reference manual. His posts certainly provided valuable guidance as I proceeded through the build process. Thanks Paul.

  40. #480
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kennebunk, ME
    Posts
    208
    Wow! That is what I call one efficient painter. Hell I would pay a premium to get a painter who would meet his timelines.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, thinking Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes.

Page 12 of 17 FirstFirst ... 21011121314 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Visit our community sponsor