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Thread: EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

  1. #641
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Paul,
    Is a picture of the clear film you applied feasible or is it to clear? Maybe a picture of the template? I am interested in doing this as well but am having a hard time visualizing.
    Thanks for the alignment tips. I was thinking the other day the 4 post with the pneumatic jack is really going to come in handy for alignment. I did the exact same mod to make my tool fit the 18" wheels.

    Now I realize you want to shut this thread down but there is just to much good info. You will probably be responding to questions in this thread for years to come!
    No worries! I'll keep answering questions. For a while anyway. A picture of my car wouldn't help much to see the clear film. They are practically invisible. This thread shows some different ones you can see so you can get an idea. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...pats-pics.html. I make them a little higher than most of the pics. Maybe similar to post #28. I made my own patterns out of kraft paper. I have the film tight against the inside corner (by the door) and all the way over to the edge of the wheel well opening. Down to a point at the bottom, as low as it will go. And then across the top with a radius on each corner. I have a pattern for each side. They are not exactly symmetrical. I used a Mk3 pattern that was published on the other forum for the first set I made for #7750. Wasn't an exact fit, but I thought good enough. As luck would have it, my first chip was right off the edge of where the film didn't cover. These flares really takes a beating. I try to cover as much as I can.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-24-2017 at 03:38 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  2. #642
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    A good detailing shop should be able to custom wrap the front of the roadster (front line of the hood opening forward ) to provide the protection. Another option is to use 3M Paint Defender system. I've applied it to the front and it it quite easy and looks very professional. A little piece of mind when putting all those mile on.

  3. #643
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    A good detailing shop should be able to custom wrap the front of the roadster (front line of the hood opening forward ) to provide the protection. Another option is to use 3M Paint Defender system. I've applied it to the front and it it quite easy and looks very professional. A little piece of mind when putting all those mile on.
    Thanks. I've already checked into both options. Talked to a few detail shops. Most don't want anything to do with custom paint and especially on fiberglass. Those that might be willing were talking crazy prices. North of $1K to start. I can do a lot of touch up for that.

    The 3M Paint Defender system has been discontinued for over a year. Since the shelf life was only supposed to be one year, stock that's still being sold (and it is possible to still find it) is likely out of shelf life. Plus pretty mediocre reviews from what I've seen. Probably why it's not around any more. It's been talked about quite a bit on the other forum.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-25-2017 at 12:11 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  4. #644
    Junior Member rx7922's Avatar
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    WOW Paul,

    I am speechless, over the past few days i read through your build and i was blown away with the amount of detail you put in the car. I hope one day i can also build my car with some of your ideas. I might just have to fly you out to California to come help me lol.

  5. #645
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rx7922 View Post
    WOW Paul,

    I am speechless, over the past few days i read through your build and i was blown away with the amount of detail you put in the car. I hope one day i can also build my car with some of your ideas. I might just have to fly you out to California to come help me lol.
    You got through the whole thread in a few days? Speed reader?? Seriously, thanks for the comments. This build thread morphed into something I wasn't really expecting. But with all the feedback, questions, messages, phone calls, etc. all the detail seemed appropriate. I saw your intro post. Hopefully you will be able to join the party sometime soon.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  6. #646
    Junior Member rx7922's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    You got through the whole thread in a few days? Speed reader?? Seriously, thanks for the comments. This build thread morphed into something I wasn't really expecting. But with all the feedback, questions, messages, phone calls, etc. all the detail seemed appropriate. I saw your intro post. Hopefully you will be able to join the party sometime soon.
    I loved reading through it, it was like a novel, it got me hooked and i couldn't put my laptop down.

  7. #647
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    ttt
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  8. #648
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post

    I showed the hood latches in the last update. The remaining step was to add the aluminum catches on the underside of the hood opening. The kit provides a couple of pieces that work OK. But some years ago I saw an idea in another build thread about cutting a profile into the catches that matches the top profile of the hood latch. Gives them a nice snap when theyíre turned into place and they stay centered. Iíve done that on each of my builds. Takes a bit larger piece of aluminum angle stock. I used 1 by 1 inch angle, 2 inches long. Mounted them on the underside of the hood opening just behind the inside of the hood opening lip. Then determined where the latch would hit at that point, and cut the profile as pictured. It works really well. Thank you to whoever had that idea. The other thing I do is bolt them on now, burying the head of the bolts in the hood lip with a layer of HSRF. Then the bolts will be hidden when painted.


    Question for you Paul. On the hood latch catch bracket, did you HSRF only the machine screws into the body lip, and just bolt on the angle bracket? Or did you HSRF the entire bracket to the underside hood opening lip? The problem I'm running into is it's not really a smooth, 90 degree surface under the opening lip. The Bracket wants to roll under the lip opening. Seems it would be more secure if the bracket was sitting on a better surface, like a fresh bed of HSRF.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Bought a partially completed MK4. The Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439. The Extra Stuff: Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands, Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling and Battery mount.
    The Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    The Young and Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi

  9. #649
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Question for you Paul. On the hood latch catch bracket, did you HSRF only the machine screws into the body lip, and just bolt on the angle bracket? Or did you HSRF the entire bracket to the underside hood opening lip? The problem I'm running into is it's not really a smooth, 90 degree surface under the opening lip. The Bracket wants to roll under the lip opening. Seems it would be more secure if the bracket was sitting on a better surface, like a fresh bed of HSRF.
    Yes, the bracket is sitting in HSRF plus the machine screws. I agree that area is irregular and not very flat. HSRF to the rescue.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  10. #650
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Yes, the bracket is sitting in HSRF plus the machine screws. I agree that area is irregular and not very flat. HSRF to the rescue.
    Thanks Paul, You da man.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Bought a partially completed MK4. The Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439. The Extra Stuff: Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands, Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling and Battery mount.
    The Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    The Young and Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi

  11. #651
    when you hooked the yellow tach wire to coil which coil and which wire did you use

  12. #652
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billrfrank View Post
    when you hooked the yellow tach wire to coil which coil and which wire did you use
    I connected my tach wire to the coil on cylinder #7. But it doesn't matter. Any of the eight can be used. I chose #7 because it fit best with my harness and engine cover. But pick the one that works best for you. Any of them will provide the 1 pulse per 2 revolutions or 1/2 pulse per 1 revolution signal needed for the tach.

    Each coil connector has two wires. One is common for all and is the same color. The signal wire for each is a different color. The signal wire is the one you want to tap. The signal wire on #7 was yellow.

    This previous post in this build thread has more details plus some pictures: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post221568

    Note I can only confirm this works with Speedhut tach, and it must be calibrated to the 1/2 pulse per 1 revolution setting. I believe the Autometer tach requires an actual tach adapter with several additional connections. That's what I've seen in other posts. But I can't personally verify that.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-30-2017 at 07:20 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  13. #653
    also I am hooking up alt lite when starting.The wiring states us 510 ohm resistor between the 2 wires then hook up 1 wire to ign switch battery wire and the other to the brown wire on acc side of switch.When I do that the lite stays on when ignition off what am I doing wrong thanks Bill F

  14. #654
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billrfrank View Post
    also I am hooking up alt lite when starting.The wiring states us 510 ohm resistor between the 2 wires then hook up 1 wire to ign switch battery wire and the other to the brown wire on acc side of switch.When I do that the lite stays on when ignition off what am I doing wrong thanks Bill F
    I've not tried to use an alternator light on any of my builds including this Coyote build. I'm comfortable scanning the voltmeter gauge while regularly scanning all the gauges. So I can't give any specific help or advice. Sorry.

    There isn't any mention in the Coyote Controls Pack instructions of an alternator light. The alternator function and wiring are all tailored to the Coyote Motorcraft alternator. So it's not clear to me an alternator light is feasible with this setup. But again, that's based on zero knowledge or experience.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  15. #655
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Yes, that older pic shows what I did. The fuse in the RF panel is removed. Using that wire, the power for both the RF panel fuel pump relay and the actual in-tank fuel pump come from the Coyote green fuel pump wire via the Coyote PDB. The Coyote PDB has the necessary fuse for the fuel pump. The inertia switch wires complete the ground circuit for the relay. Inertia switch closed = relay grounded, relay closed, +12V from Coyote PDB goes to the fuel pump. Inertia switch open = relay open, no power to fuel pump. Exactly how you want it to work. For the fuel pump switch, I don't know if it's recommended or not. It's just something I wanted, and yes it's on the center dash support underneath and out of sight. Mainly for diagnostic purposes (can crank the engine without it starting) and also a hidden security feature if I'm so inclined. But I didn't switch the main fuel pump wire. That's carrying a lot of current and that would need a substantial switch. I added a small rocker switch in one of the inertia switch wires. So opening the switch is the same as the inertia switch being open and breaks power to the fuel pump via the relay. Pretty simple.

    For the RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire, I used that one to connect to the Coyote pigtail cavity 5 Light Green Ignition Relay Trigger wire. The Coyote system needs ignition switched +12V to wake it up and keep it running. The RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire is the perfect candidate.

    For the alternator wire, I'm not sure what you're asking. You need the main +12V battery feed wire from the RF harness (discussed in the last response) to the large post on the alternator. Then you need the alternator connector from the Coyote harness into the connector block on the alternator. Those two things provide the entire alternator function. There is a brown alternator wire coming off the RF ignition switch harness that goes to a connector on the end of the RF alternator harness wire. Maybe that's what you're asking about. That one can be deleted. Not used.

    I uploaded a wiring spreadsheet in my build thread. It has a lot of detail and maybe would help if you don't have it. It's post #325 here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post243285

    Continued good luck with the wiring!
    Hi EduardB
    Sorry to throw this question into your build thread but I don't know how to send a PM with photo.
    I'm ready for first start and the motor is turning over but nothing from the fuel pump. I thought I was going to hear it kick in from reading other threads but nada. Does this connection at the RF fuse box look correct?

    FullSizeRender 2.jpg

    FullSizeRender.jpg

    I removed the RF fuel pump fuse, cut the tan wire and spliced it to the red wire in the photo. The red wire connects to the green wire in the Coyote pigtail. Did I get this connection right? If so, any ideas?

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  16. #656
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I'm out of town for the Factory Five open house and won't be home until Monday PM. All my documentation files and schematics are at home and I don't remember the specific info to provide without them. Your pictures are also a little small, so it's not easy to pick the specific details. Couple of responses I can provide before more getting more details later. Yes, the fuel pump should start immediately when the ignition key is moved from off to run. For prior Coyote versions it would turn on and stay on. For the 2015+ Gen 2 version, the pump runs for several seconds and stops until you move the key from run to start and the engine cranks and start. But you will see the fuel pressure at the regulator gauge immediately even in the very short run when the key is initially turned.

    The wiring concept here is (1) The fuel pump blunt lead wire from the Coyote harness provides the +12V to run the fuel pump. The Coyote PDB contains the relay and fuse for this Coyote circuit. (2) The RF harness wiring from the fuse panel to the fuel pump location is used to carry the +12V to run the fuel pump. (3) The relay in the RF harness should be left in the circuit in order for the inertia switch to be functional. (4) The wires cut at the RF panel allow the +12V from the Coyote PDB to be attached which in turn power the RF relay and the fuel pump. The RF fuse for the fuel pump is out of the circuit, so can be removed. (5) The inertia switch completes the ground circuit for the RF relay. If the inertia switch is opened, the ground circuit is broken, the relay de-engergized, and the fuel pump power is interrupted.

    Maybe this general concept information helps to troubleshoot for now. An easy test would be to measure the voltage on the Coyote fuel pump blunt lead when the key is turned on. You should observe +12V for several seconds with the key on the "on" position. If the +12V is there, the problem is somewhere in the link between the Coyote harness and the RF harness, e.g. where/how you're breaking into the RF harness. If the +12V is not there, then start looking on the Coyote side starting with the fuel pump fuse and relay in the Coyote PDB.

    Post what you find out and what else you try/learn. If not solved, I'll get more information once I get home. Good luck.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-10-2017 at 07:50 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  17. #657
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Thanks,
    I'm am not getting 12V at the blunt lead (dark green). I am getting 12V at the ignition trigger (Lt green). Ford Racing techs told me to check my grounds. I'll get that done and report back on a separate thread. Sounds like pilot error, not surprising, is involved.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  18. #658
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Thanks, I'm am not getting 12V at the blunt lead (dark green). I am getting 12V at the ignition trigger (Lt green). Ford Racing techs told me to check my grounds. I'll get that done and report back on a separate thread. Sounds like pilot error, not surprising, is involved.
    OK. The harness has multiple grounds. But agreed they need to be solid, starting with the main large ground wire that Ford wants hard wired directly to the battery ground, which I did.

    I'm back home and checked my build documentation. Best I can tell from your picture, you broke into the RF fuel pump wiring at the right place to keep the relay and inertia switch in play. Below is the picture from an older version of the FF Coyote installation manual. Using this location the Coyote PDB is powering both the relay and the fuel pump through the RF harness. Later FF Coyote instructions, including the most recent, show the relay bypassed. They show wiring the Coyote PDB fuel pump lead (blunt green) directly to the RF fuel pump harness wire. Runs the fuel pump fine that way, but takes away the inertia switch.

    Last edited by edwardb; 06-12-2017 at 07:02 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  19. #659
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    The doors I made from two pieces of aluminum. I used a .090 inch thick piece for the inside, and a .040 inch thick piece with the same 1/8 inch sculpting foam as the rest of the dash for the outside. I made them basically zero clearance to the opening, taking into account the thickness of the leather. Made getting the hinge alignment pretty critical, but turned out OK. Just a lot of fiddling getting the exact spots. I captured the screws for the door side of the hinges between the two door halves. The final product is a little heavy and in hindsight .040 inch thick material for both halves would have been fine. But itís not noticeable when opening and closing.

    [/URL]

    [/QUOTE]

    Paul, can you tell me how deep you made your glove box? Also, are the inner and outer glove box door panels just glued together with the hinge bolts captured between? Anything but glue and the latch joining them? Beautiful, by the way.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  20. #660
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Paul, can you tell me how deep you made your glove box? Also, are the inner and outer glove box door panels just glued together with the hinge bolts captured between? Anything but glue and the latch joining them? Beautiful, by the way. -Steve
    Hey Steve. Thanks. I'm real happy with how it turned out. The glovebox is 3-inches deep to the back of the dash. About 3-1/4 inches to the front. Yes, the inner and outer panels are glued together with several nice large puddles of JB Weld assisted by the latch assembly. The hinge bolts are captured on the inner panel. It all seems quite strong and has held up fine so far.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  21. #661


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    Paul,
    Hardly got a chance to say "hello" at LCS but Jeff Miller and I were out walking the parking lot early Saturday AM and had a chance to give the car a once over...it's as good in person as in photos. Two words my friend---"GOLD STANDARD"

    Enjoy the miles!

    Jeff

  22. #662
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Paul,
    Hardly got a chance to say "hello" at LCS but Jeff Miller and I were out walking the parking lot early Saturday AM and had a chance to give the car a once over...it's as good in person as in photos. Two words my friend---"GOLD STANDARD"

    Enjoy the miles!

    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff. Appreciate the comments very much! You guys must have been out there early. We drove away before 7:00.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  23. #663


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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    ...You guys must have been out there early...
    Bats are nocturnal you know

    Jeff

  24. #664
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    [/URL]

    Here you can see the connections I made to the Spectre intake. The top one is for the CMCV system, and the lower one (just visible, sorry) is the DS PCV line. I used connectors from JLT Performance mentioned in some other Coyote build threads. They are aluminum, and fit into a rubber grommet in the intake. I used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV when installing them. Seems to work perfectly. The factory connectors clip right on.
    Just a heads up - JLT changed their part number for the PCV connector. New part number is: ftg-hd-jlt5000p
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  25. #665
    Paul
    I have been following your build for some time now and appreciate the level of detail you have presented. I'm currently in the middle of my build (even though I haven't posted yet) getting ready to send the body to paint. I recently received my coyote 5.0 and was prepping it for installation and noticed the vacuum line that runs from the rear of the intake out to the passenger side front of the motor. I did a quick search and ran across your recent posting on the correct use of this line as a vacuum source for the cmcv. No problem I understand how to hook it up but just wanted to confirm back to you in case anyone else asks, I have the latest version Coyote which uses two vacuum motors to actuate the intake cmcv and both motors are supplied vacuum by this single line.

    Also a quick question, I just received the RT turn signal system and noticed that folks using it are installing a nice polished bezel on the dash where the post goes through the dash. Who is the source of the bezel?

  26. #666
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingJohn View Post
    Paul
    I have been following your build for some time now and appreciate the level of detail you have presented. I'm currently in the middle of my build (even though I haven't posted yet) getting ready to send the body to paint. I recently received my coyote 5.0 and was prepping it for installation and noticed the vacuum line that runs from the rear of the intake out to the passenger side front of the motor. I did a quick search and ran across your recent posting on the correct use of this line as a vacuum source for the cmcv. No problem I understand how to hook it up but just wanted to confirm back to you in case anyone else asks, I have the latest version Coyote which uses two vacuum motors to actuate the intake cmcv and both motors are supplied vacuum by this single line.

    Also a quick question, I just received the RT turn signal system and noticed that folks using it are installing a nice polished bezel on the dash where the post goes through the dash. Who is the source of the bezel?
    The RT bezel is from Mike Everson. http://www.replicaparts.com/russ%20t...nal%20page.htm. Nice part and works perfectly.

    I've spoken with several builders with the newer Coyote including those who've posted on the other thread about the CMCV hookup. All versions use two vacuum motors and nothing has changed on how they need to be hooked up to get a vacuum signal and actuate. Vacuum from the front of the engine needs to be provided to the nipple on the back of the intake which is a vacuum reservoir that the CMCV system uses. The thread pictures and descriptions of this part hasn't changed. The line on the PS (right) is attached to this nipple on the back of the intake. It can be removed and replaced with a new line as I did. Or it can be modified and connected to the vacuum port on the front of the engine by the intake. Either way works. What has changed is Ford eliminated the line from the vacuum switches to the intake on the DS (left) of the engine. They vent the switches to atmosphere right at the back of the engine. So nothing needs to be done including providing a connection to the intake. The installation is actually simpler now.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-09-2017 at 05:59 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  27. #667
    Paul

    FYI

    One thing I haven't seen anyone mention is that the factory connection that supplies vacuum to the CMCV system has a one way check valve at the end of the hose just where it exits the front of the motor. I assume this valve is to maintain vacuum in the intake reservoir during low vacuum conditions and should be installed for proper operation of the CMCV system. For my install, I used the factory hose and connected directly at the input port of the check valve through a T-fitting. One side of the T feeds the pressure regulator the other side reduces down and connects to the vacuum port on the TB. This is a clean install and will be under the intake cover. When I get around to posting my build I will share photos. (too much fun building)

    John B

  28. #668
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingJohn View Post
    Paul

    FYI

    One thing I haven't seen anyone mention is that the factory connection that supplies vacuum to the CMCV system has a one way check valve at the end of the hose just where it exits the front of the motor. I assume this valve is to maintain vacuum in the intake reservoir during low vacuum conditions and should be installed for proper operation of the CMCV system. For my install, I used the factory hose and connected directly at the input port of the check valve through a T-fitting. One side of the T feeds the pressure regulator the other side reduces down and connects to the vacuum port on the TB. This is a clean install and will be under the intake cover. When I get around to posting my build I will share photos. (too much fun building)

    John B
    Yea, others have mentioned the check valve. Certainly doesn't hurt anything. I'm not sure it's a big issue though. This same vacuum source is also used for the power brakes in a Mustang. Check the vacuum diagram. There it would be critical to have uninterrupted vacuum. For the CMCV, not so critical. If you measure the vacuum on that front port by the throttle body, you'll see it has plenty of vacuum at all RPM's. Plenty IMO to keep the CMCV circuit going especially since the power brakes aren't there to draw anything. Plus I've been driving for three months now (a bunch more today) and haven't received any codes for the CMCV. None for anything actually. So it seems to work OK without the check valve. But like I said, doesn't hurt anything.

    Interested in seeing photos of your build!
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-09-2017 at 04:10 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  29. #669
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Yea, others have mentioned the check valve. Certainly doesn't hurt anything. I'm not sure it's a big issue though. This same vacuum source is also used for the power brakes in a Mustang. Check the vacuum diagram. There it would be critical to have uninterrupted vacuum. For the CMCV, not so critical. If you measure the vacuum on that front port by the throttle body, you'll see it has plenty of vacuum at all RPM's. Plenty IMO to keep the CMCV circuit going especially since the power brakes aren't there to draw anything. Plus I've been driving for three months now (a bunch more today) and haven't received any codes for the CMCV. None for anything actually. So it seems to work OK without the check valve. But like I said, doesn't hurt anything.

    Interested in seeing photos of your build!
    Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. On another note, how is the driving experience with the coyote compared to your other builds?

  30. #670
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingJohn View Post
    Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. On another note, how is the driving experience with the coyote compared to your other builds?
    This is what I wrote a couple months ago in my graduation thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ster-03-of-20:

    I’ve had the new Roadster out several times, including earlier today for my wife's first ride and turned the odometer over to 50 miles. What can I say? It’s simply incredible. The Coyote runs beautifully. Sounds different than an old school motor that’s for sure. But the way it starts and drives is amazing. Throttle response is instant. Starting at 3,000 – 4,000 RPM and up, it’s pulls like crazy. But it's also quite happy putzing along at 1,500 RPM in 5th, as I found out today. The SBF’s in my other builds, after tuning, ran very well. But this is a whole other level. I couldn’t recommend the Coyote any higher, and really happy I got talked into it.

    Just short of 700 miles now, and nothing has changed. Love how it runs and would make the same decision again.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  31. #671
    I was in the Detroit area and EdwardB was kind enough to let me stop in and see his build in person. It is stunning and such a clean build. Wow. And of course he's as nice in person as you would expect ��
    Thanks for spending some time with us.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  32. #672
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I was in the Detroit area and EdwardB was kind enough to let me stop in and see his build in person. It is stunning and such a clean build. Wow. And of course he's as nice in person as you would expect ��
    Thanks for spending some time with us.
    Hey Joel. Thanks for the generous comments and you're welcome. It was good to meet you in person.

    Now get that build over the finish line.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  33. #673
    Hello Paul,

    I just recently seen this build. Thanks. I am amazed at your attention to detail. I purchased a 1976 Porsche 912E for my son and we are starting the mechanical restoration on it. It really got me looking for an older 911 to restore. After seeing this build I'm going to get another MK4, but this time I'm going to complete it. Again thanks.

    Rod

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