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Thread: So it begins.......

  1. #281
    BTW ....love that your build is coming along. I've been gone a while...mother passed among other life things.
    Good news is that I just poured the concrete for a new shop area yesterday. Going to be wiring and insulating the shop next weekend. Hope to have the shop complete before then end of the month.
    The GTM should soon have a dedicated area now to get some much needed attention.

    Keep up the good work Brent ....I'm learning a lot!

    -Rick

  2. #282
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    Rick,

    I can't wait to see pics and follow your build, its not too early to send pics of the garage! thats part of the build too!

  3. #283
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    So here's yet another issue with what you would think would be a very straight forward part of the build........

    I wanted to put a few gallons of gas in the car and now that the body is on I was going to temporarily hook up the gas cap to the fuel tanks. There's a short black tube with two 90 degree bends that connects the two pieces. Well the black tube is flared at one end, the end that connects to the gas cap. The instructions say to cut the flared portion off and then simply attach it to the gas cap with a hose clamp .......seems easy enough. After you do that (for me at least) the black tube is now too short to connect to the gas cap!!! Anyone else have this issue or use a different tubing to connect the two?!

  4. #284
    The manual is full issues. You need to physically check each new part of your build as you go. If you follow that manual all the time you'll have problems.

  5. #285
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    your point Jason has been proven time and time again, you'd think I would've learned by now lol

  6. #286
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    anyone have a fix for that tube from the cap to the fuel can? or run across this problem?

  7. #287
    I’m obviously nowhere near this far along, but I am finding myself doing a “sanity” check comparing what the manual is telling me to do vs. what I’m actually going to do at every step. It just sucks that something that supposedly was revised this year, or at least that’s what the cover states, is still full of garbage.

  8. #288
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    Shoeless,

    I guess I'm just surprised I haven't heard of that being an issue before, although the manual is lacking the forum makes up for it! I wouldn't have ordered the kit if it weren't for this forum. I've tried to read every single thread on both forums and I've looked through all the weebly build sites I could find and usually I have a heads up that something is going to be a problem, I just haven't heard of this one yet.... or didn't remember reading it. Really, I don't remember being this frustrated with the kit during the go kart stage. It really seems to be the body portion that is lacking so much in detailed instructions and lacking in quality products.

  9. #289
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    Think about all the fixes that Shane at Vraptor Speedworks has identified and provided fixes for! If it wasn't for him the list would be so much longer. Maybe the go kart stage was that much smoother because I ordered almost every one of his "fixes".

  10. #290
    Quote Originally Posted by tucker298 View Post
    Think about all the fixes that Shane at Vraptor Speedworks has identified and provided fixes for! If it wasn't for him the list would be so much longer. Maybe the go kart stage was that much smoother because I ordered almost every one of his "fixes".
    Yea I hear ya on that. I just landed in CT for business and should have my list of Shane fixes set by the time I fly home.

    I do have a question. The sheetmetal piece on the passenger side in the engine compartment that has the cutout for the engine computer, did you mount yours there or cover it up somehow? I remember you saying you got a custom harness made, just can’t remember computer wise. I’m still dead set on a different EMS so I may need to cover this up.

  11. #291
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    if i remember right that cut out is actually for the fuse panel, I covered it it up with another piece of sheet metal and riveted it on, thats where I put one of the infinity box modules ( the infinity system doesn't require the C5 fuse panel). The computer has a bracket welded to the upper frame but thats fitted for the LS1 computer, Shane sells and adapter plate that allows you to mount the LS3 computer there, which is what I did.

  12. #292
    Perfect, thanks for that. Shane said he could make me some custom pieces to mount my AEM Infinity components, just need to get them and give him the dimensions.

    I could use the belly pan sheet metal to close off this hole. I’m kind of on the fence about going with the louvered belly pans. Not that I’m planning on driving the car in the rain, I do live in south FL, and it’s not always avoidable. But then again, it gets hot as hell down here and need to get the hot air out of the car.

  13. #293
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    so enough talking and lets get on with some updates ! so the manual pretty much says slap the hood latches on and go, I'll expound on that a little bit because as of now its easy to see even when the manual gives directions I'm a little apprehensive. The latches' holes are slotted so where ever you decide to put the latches there will be play to be abel to adjust the latch up or down to get the hood to close at the right spot. I did use a little trick I saw on youtube that seems to apply here, I installed the latch and then set the striker in the latch, I then put tooth paste on the back of the striker and closed the hood. The first time I closed the hood there were no marks on the hood so i loosened the latch and brought it up slightly and repeated the process until there was toothpaste on the hood. The toothpaste made a perfect impression of where the striker should go and then I just released the striker from the latch, lined up the striker to the toothpaste outline and held the striker in place while I drilled the holes for the rivets. worked perfectly. Both sides were straight forward and no surprises on this one lol. I still need to route the cables and attach the release handle so thats for tomorrow!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by tucker298; 11-13-2017 at 11:29 PM.

  14. #294
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
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    Nicely done on the hood latches. Now your starting to think like a Hot Rodder/fabricator
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  15. #295
    Senior Member The Stig's Avatar
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    Hi Buddy.

    It's been a while... I've been following along quietly. I'm really interested in where you take your GTM build. I know that when you're done you're going to love it.

    Have fun with the build as much as possible. It gets tough. Obstacles keep popping up. Especially for first time builders. But just try to remind yourself why you bought the kit in the first place.

    When I met you at the Charlotte Autofair car show in April, I knew that yours was one that would be fun to watch. It was great to meet you and your family, and spend some time talking cars.

    That part of the car show was fun...

    The Build manual was written by a hand full of people at Factory Five, who have A LOT of experience building these cars. As such, there are some things that may have been glossed over because they just didn't think it was a big deal. And to them, it probably wasn't. I don't think it was intentional. I think they assumed that the builders would have the knowledge to bridge the potential knowledge gaps.

    But, what I learned was that they are very happy to talk you through issues, and help you get through it. Factory Five is eager to help you if they can. They are good people and want you see you succeed in your build.

    Take care, and enjoy!

    Mike
    The Stig

    Some say, that I only know two facts about ducks, (both being wrong); and that if I could be bothered, I could solve the "da Vinci Code" in 47 seconds...
    All I know is that I'm called "The Stig".
    GTM #0081

  16. #296
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    Thanks Mike!

    Some of it was just venting and most of it was to let future buyers be absolutely clear what they are getting into. Good to see you still checking in!

    Made some progress tonight with the rear hatch, got the latch/striker plate and Shane's hatch props installed, I'm convinced I'm going to need to put a support piece for the rear portion of the body where the latch mounts for the rear hatch. There's just too much movement there for my liking. As well as, it makes the body pieces match up nicer with that rear body piece lifted just an 1/8th of an inch and the rear hatch closes so much smoother. So I have an idea for a bracket that will bolt above the rear transmission cage and angle forward and up to the back of the fiberglass part that the latch is bolted to. Will post pics of it soon.

    Didn't spend much time problem shooting this but the hatch props from Shane aren't locking into place and unlocking by just bringing them to full extension. I tried changing the holes that they were mounted to the see if a slight change of angle was the solution but it didn't help, anyone experience that or know a trick to fix them so they stay open or close without me having to reach in and manipulate them?
    Last edited by tucker298; Yesterday at 10:36 PM.

  17. #297
    On the hatch props, you do have to reach in and pull them to release them or push them to lock. That is the way they are designed to work.

    As for the rear latch, the bracket you describe to support the latch area is included with the kit. If you don't have it, then FFR screwed up and didn't ship it with your kit.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  18. #298
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    I did not get the rear hatch brace in my kit either. I had to call and have them ship it to me.

  19. #299
    I just did a quick look in my boxes and I believe the below picture is the bracket you are looking for. It should be in Box 3D if you do have it.


  20. #300
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    No I didn't get that! Well that makes things easier, I wondered why no one else has brought that up before lol and I didn't see in the manual of them talking about that piece but I haven't been following the manual really closely so it could be in there and not have seen it. I'll go look through the manual now and see if its in there and how it gets installed.

    Thanks for the input Shane, its NO problem at all doing that and would gladly do that over those gas struts!

  21. #301
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    Well once again I'm not impressed with the manual ............... yes it's in there (barely) once again this is a great manual for someone who already knows what all the parts are and what the next step is. Its in a diagram on page 462 but can easily be mistaken for the fiberglass portion that drops down that the latch bolts to. theres no picture of them installing the part like in the rest of the manual, and it never talks about the other end of the latch support? the top end goes behind that fiberglass portion that the latch gets bolted on but how does the bottom part get attached, or does it?!

  22. #302
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    I used rivnuts and 1/4-20 bolts to attach the bottom to the frame/trans mount.

    -Michael
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

    Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

  23. #303
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    thanks Mike!

    Thats what I figured, hopefully I can get a drill underneath that back body area to be able to drill a hole on top of that frame\trans mount to install a pair of rivetnuts.

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