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Thread: So it begins.......

  1. #201
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    a nice surprise was to see an SLC at the car show. The owner Jim was also very polite and showed me all the things he did to make his build unique and boy is it! I left with and admiration of the SLC and saw what type of car it could be!


    He even moved the components from the nose to allow for storage space!!! so jealous!


    he moved the radiator to the back, which can only be done with a lot of thought, ingenuity and not being a GTM haha


    and his interior is very nice! and dare i say roomy!
    Last edited by tucker298; 05-07-2017 at 12:51 PM.

  2. #202
    Senior Member The Stig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tucker298 View Post
    Yesterday was a great day! Finally met Mike after many interactions online and he couldn't have been any nicer! He politely answered my 300 questions and let me look at the most random places on his car to see where things were placed on his build. If you didn't know any better a on looker would have thought i was inspecting his car for the show lol. I really liked the subtle changes that were made to the body i.e. extending the corners of the hood a few inches back for better flow and to cover the merging body pieces and of course his window seals are OEM looking as it gets. The rear hatch from Jason really does stand out in person and looks great as the car flows back to his body painted rear wing. Just a classy combination of parts and color choices put together exceptionally well.

    This is me and Mike hanging out on the windiest day of the year! lol notice how dark the car can be without direct sunlight


    and when the sun comes out look how blue it can get, I really love the paint choice for his car! please excuse the selfie style pic lol and thats Mike in the background doing what he did all day and will do all weekend... answer ALOT of questions about his car and to be blunt about it, most of the questions were the same as the last guys and must wear him out at some point ....... like "hey whats this car?", "what chases is it built on....... no, like is it a corvette frame?", "whats a factory five?" over and over. Not sure I could answer the same questions 500 times a day, Mike you're a saint!
    Brent,

    Thank you for the kind words. I enjoyed spending time with you and your family, talking about the GTM and showing you around it. If there is anything at all that I can do to help you, please don't hesitate to let me know. The repetitive questions are actually a good thing in that it shows that a huge number of people wanted to know more about it. Answering their questions with the same enthusiasm that they asked them, may actually make them the next GTM builders.

    Enjoy your project, and stick to your guns in regard to your build plan. You have a really nice build going.

    Hopefully we'll cross paths again.

    Mike
    The Stig

    Some say, that I only know two facts about ducks, (both being wrong); and that if I could be bothered, I could solve the "da Vinci Code" in 47 seconds...
    All I know is that I'm called "The Stig".
    GTM #0081

  3. #203
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    the alignment and camber isn't perfect but its pretty close! its go kart good enough thats for sure!

    Last edited by tucker298; 04-09-2017 at 03:52 PM.

  4. #204
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  5. #205
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  6. #206
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    My first riv nut tool was horrible but I didn't pay much for it and some can be really expensive, I bought one more and its small enough to fit in tight spaces and works GREAT and doesn't cost a lot. I know there are tool snobs out there that buy all top of the line tools and thats awesome if you can do that. There definitely are some tools that warrant that but if you buy all top of the line tools for everything you need to build this car you will add thousands on to this build over the entire build time.I didn't end up putting as many rid nuts in as I thought i would. Also I ended up buying the Harbor freight pneumatic riveter and its been great so far too. Although its bulky and doesn't fit everywhere you need it to so I still had to buy a hand tool for those tight spots. Just my two cents for future builders
    Last edited by tucker298; 04-09-2017 at 09:39 PM.

  7. #207
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    for some reason I've hard a hard time finding the right push button start switch, I've even ordered some "momentary" switches on eBay that were NOT momentary. I've ordered a few that looked cheap and flimsy when they arrived so I thought I'd show what I ended up with. Its a 19mm size button which might be on the small side, I found a 22mm red LED style that will be bigger. The one in the video is the 19mm.

    There are no wiring diagrams for this switch to the Infinity wiring for obvious reasons but incase any future builder is looking for a push button red LED start set up..... let me save you some time, I bought the optional plug that has 6" tails, the wires are labeled on the base of the case

    NO=Normal Open -to the master cell wire for PUSH BUTTON START (green\orange)
    NC=Normal Closed, not used for my case
    C= Grounded to chassis
    + =positive wire for the LED 12V
    - = Ground wire for the LED

    this might be really simple stuff for those of you familiar with wiring up cars.... I am not!



    you don't need to buy the tail but it did make it easier to wire up, I've used these butt connectors on the whole build so far and I'd suggest them to anyone, after crimping them hit them with a heat gun and not only does the clear sheath shrink tight to hold the connection place but there it is lined with glue to keep them from pulling out!
    Last edited by tucker298; 04-11-2017 at 05:59 PM.

  8. #208
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  9. #209
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    My seat is as far back as it should be for a 6' man and the steering wheel still feels way too close. The steering wheel was installed by the original owner so I wasn't familiar with the install. I could see that there are two bolts that hold the bracket on and they are slotted. The bolts were all the way forward so I loosened them and tried to push the steering wheel back it wouldn't go very far (even after I loosened the set screws on the shaft). I realized the the shaft was bottoming out and I'll need to trim this shaft about an inch or two to allow the steering wheel to move all the way back to end of those slots.
    [URL=http://s822.photobucket.com/user/tucker0298/media/steering%20shaft.jpg.html][/URL
    Last edited by tucker298; 04-11-2017 at 06:19 PM.

  10. #210
    Senior Member Roger Reid's Avatar
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    This is what I did to my non telescopic steering column to mount it as far forward as I could. I gained about an inch. The additional strap steel I welded to the column really stiffened up the column and kept it from flexing like the stock mounting will do.

    Just an old man with a great hobby

  11. #211
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    That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing!

  12. #212
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Not sure if this helps, but I have a non-telescoping unit laying around if you want it for free Brent.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  13. #213
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    Thanks a lot! I should be good with this one BUT that helps out knowing if I screw this one up I have a back up lol

  14. #214
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    still getting the AC buttoned up, found a sensor for the high side. Threads right on and if I have the wiring figured out right I should be good to go by this weekend for finishing up the AC. I'm a little leery of the infinity box module that lets me control the AC via the tablet because the module isn't being recognized by the Master Cell, I'll call them sometime this week and hopefully thats an easy fix.

  15. #215
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    I got a few more small goodies in the mail, a tool to adjust my coil overs, for $25 its nice to be able to adjust them easily at some of those hard spots. I also got the seat brackets for the passenger side seat. I'm gonna need a seat for my friend while he monitors the motor on our next go karting adventure. This set is different than the first set I received from Shane, the front two brackets have a "tab" to them...... Shane do I have them oriented correctly and can you tell me the reason for the improvement or what the metal "tabs" for the front do? sorry for the dumb question.
    Last edited by tucker298; 04-20-2017 at 03:00 PM.

  16. #216
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    My friend has a Hunter alignment machine at his work, are there any specs out there to load in or a vehicle thats close to use?

  17. #217
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    For the front, get as much caster as you can, then try to get the camber you want. .75-1.5 degrees depending on your plans for the car. Small amount of toe-in up front, typically about 1/16".
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  18. #218
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    with headlights and taillights always being a topic of discussion or at least thoughts of changing out on most peoples build I thought I would share this. Great read and gives you ideas of what you can do to enhance and modernize them.
    https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...led-halos.html

  19. #219
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    still have to charge the AC and get the car tuned before i go full retard on the body but I'm starting to turn my attention to it......... with some help

  20. #220
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    always wanted to do something different with the taillights, especially by upgrading my electronics and dash I wanted to upgrade the lackluster taillights to keep everything on the same page.

    i had been looking at various measurements of tail lights, the stock GTM circular tail lights are 4.75 in (if I remember right) i was looking for one for one swaps hoping for a miracle and finally started looking for other diameters. I liked the circular tail light look but wanted an LED or "halo" ring to really give it a modern look.
    I had a few ideas but nothing was jumping out at me...... then a forum member ran an idea past me and the "ah ha" moment occurred. The 70-73 camaro has a slightly bigger diameter of 5.5" and has several good looking LED options. First we had to see exactly how the bigger tail light would look.



  21. #221
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    then this form member showed me the holy grail of 70-73 camaro tail lights lol and they are sleek!


    the inner two lights will have the back up lights in them.

  22. #222
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    with a solid plan in place with the tail lights the next thing I wanted to address was the other part of the rear of the car....... it needs a tail of some sort, if not, in my opinion the tail end just falls off. The large APR wing is too much for my liking on a street car ( although fast things car looks great with one) the other standard option is the color matched fiberglass wing that Shane sells which I do like on a street car (the one on Stigs car is a perfect fit for Pandora) but I'm hoping to pull off a unique and smaller "wing" it will be covered in carbon fiber to match the front splitter, rocker panels and diffuser.

    we first mocked it up in card board for the shape


    then leaned it back to get the right angle to match the cars lines
    Last edited by tucker298; 05-06-2017 at 03:31 PM.

  23. #223
    LCD Gauges's Avatar
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    I think I know that mystery helper quite well.

    Let me know when you're ready to finish off the LCD system.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
    www.LCDdash.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  24. #224
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    who is this unnamed forum member with all the good ideas and not only will give you the idea but drive 5 hours to come help you make them a reality?! None other than Ron! (Presto 51)

  25. #225
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    well hopefully the end product ends up close to my intent.


    i still have a lot of shaping to do and it will lean back at a much steeper angle.

  26. #226
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    Another mile stone is officially naming the car! haha........ May I present to you, Miss Adventure.... comes complete with its own theme song!

    Last edited by tucker298; 05-06-2017 at 02:03 PM.

  27. #227
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    Tino,

    I'm still out of town, I'll should be back mid next week. I can't wait to get that dash working! You'll know as soon as I get home lol

  28. #228
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I love the idea of a spoiler, considering one myself. A simple spoiler will change rear lift to rear downforce with very little drag. How do I know? Just received this book from Amazon yesterday. I like the way your mockup looks!

    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  29. #229
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Recall that the VBM 4000 GTC had a spoiler as well

    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  30. #230
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    well thanks for that beeman! I didn't know about the VBM, i just read the thread you started years ago in the other forum. It was very informative and always cool to learn something new!

  31. #231
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    those tail lights look great I may have to tag into that as well. I have also liked the Camaro lights that Fastthings did with his GTM not sure I have the talent for doing the changes. Looking good keep up the good work.

    Steve

  32. #232
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    So did the original FFR design...

    GTM Mods 3.jpg
    www.myraceshop.com

    GTM solution kits
    Corvette and Race parts

  33. #233
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    Sorry for the lack of updates but to be honest not much progress has been done. I'm having issues with my tach and it's been robbing me of the little time I have spent on the car. I've learned ALOT about the LS3 tach wire lol or I think I have anyway. It's already a 12v signal so no need to bring it up to 12v. So it really should be plug and play with almost all aftermarket tachs. However my needle is jumping around which makes me believe it's not a "clean" signal. I called Speartech and they suggested I ensure it's away from any battery/starter/alternator wires in the tunnel. I did that and seemed to help but not fix it. I'll try and recheck all my grounds to ensure that's not an option. This shouldn't be a source of such time and frustration ........ but it is.

  34. #234
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    For my roadster build, I used Autometer gauges with my fuel injected Ford 4.6L. I had to use a tach adapter that tied into one of the (+) feeds to the coil pack. Not sure if that is applicable to your setup, but the installation instructions have a section on LS engines...


    http://www.autometer.com/tach-adapter.html
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  35. #235
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    As I understand it that adapter brings the tach signal up to 12v which most after market tachs need, which is why the speed hut gauges that came with the car have instructions to tie in a 12v wire and put in a resistor. The LS1 and LS2 motors also have a 3 or 5 volt tach wire that would need to be pulled up to 12v to read but the LS3 went ahead and made the tach wire 12v so you it would be more plug and play. So i shouldn't have a problem if everything was wired right and no interference BUT thats not the case, I need to check my grounds and ensure the the wire is isolated from other higher output wires that could cause interference..... or at least thats what I've concluded after a lot of trouble shooting and a few phone calls. I'll be sure the tell you guys what the problem was for future builders.

  36. #236
    LCD Gauges's Avatar
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    I'd like to clarify these last few posts from Brent and help others understand the ambuguity of 12 Volt versus 5 Volt signal.
    Before doing so, let me preface my response by disclosing that I've asked Brent's persmission to jump on this thread.

    There is quite a bit of confusion surrounding the tachometer signal and whether we should expect to measure 12 volts or
    5 volts at the tachometer input and whether we need a pull-up resistor, and/or a tach module adapter.

    For those that are not sure, erase everything you've read on internet forums and start over. Let me explain what's happening
    so that we can help Brent determine the problem with his setup.

    First and foremost, the PCM is producing a 5 volt, "square wave". It looks very much like this:

    5volt_signal.png

    The only method of properly measuring this signal is to use an oscilloscope, or a fancy hand-held meter that has the ability to
    read waveforms. In other words, a voltmeter or "multi-meter" cannot faithfully indicate the voltage level of a "waveform".


    GW-Instek-GRS-6052A-oscilloscope.jpg < OR >fluke_123.jpg


    If you were to use a voltmeter (or multi-meter) to measure this signal, you might measure an average voltage of about
    2.5 Volts DC because the signal is alternating between a 5 volt voltage level and ground (or zero volts). The wave is 50%
    on and 50% off, and therefore you will see 2.5 Volts on your meter and NOT 5 volts.




    If you were to measure the bare wire coming out of the PCM with nothing connected to it, you should expect the following values:

    With the IGN ON, but engine not running - zero volts on your meter


    KOEOb.png


    With the IGN ON, and engine running at idle - about 2.5 Volts DC on your meter.

    KOEONb.png

    If you do not receive these values under these conditions you have one of several issues:
    * poor grounding
    * poor power supplied to the computer
    * a faulty PCM
    * a faulty meter, etc.






    Where does the 12 volts come from that everyone is talking about?


    The 12 volts is supplied from a 12 volt wire somewhere in the harness via a RESISTOR. This resistor is used to "PULL UP"
    the voltage to battery level so that certain aftermarket tachometers will be able to sense the tachometer signal.

    The confusion begins here.



    When you turn on the IGNITION, but the engine is NOT running, you will measure 12 volts on your voltmeter. This however is NOT a tachometer
    signal because the crank sensor is not reading anything.

    You are simply measuring the battery voltage which is picked from either the Ignition Coil supply wire, Injector supply wire, or any other 12 volt wire
    that is LIVE when you turn the key to IGNITION ON.

    KOEOc.png

    How does the aftermarket tachometer read the 12 volt pulses then? The PCM still produces the same 5 volt signal, however this signal is "riding"
    on a DC VOLTAGE OFFSET. The computer will "GROUND" out the signal using internal electronics to produce a simulated 12 volt wavefrom.
    Now, when you measure the tach wire with a resistor installed you should expect the following values:

    IGNITION ON, engine NOT running - 12 Volts DC on your voltmeter
    IGNITION ON, engine running - anywhere from 6 to 10 volts DC on your voltmeter.

    KOEONd.png



    This higher voltage is because the meter is reading the average of the 12 Volt Battery voltage + 5 Volt PCM Signal.

    Notice from the diagram that the waveform is "inverted" because the resistor starts the voltage at 12 Volts and then grounds out the signal.
    The PCM is opposite - it starts at zero (ground) and goes up to 5 volts.





    In Brent's case, he may be dealing with a faulty PCM as he's not reading any votlage on his meter with the engine running, directly from Pin 48
    of the PCM (nothing connected). It would be ideal to have an oscilloscope or Advanced Hand-held meter to read the waveform coming out of the
    PCM at this point.

    I suspect his PCM is spitting out a "dirty or weak signal" based on our troubleshooting over the phone.

    signal.png


    Hopefully this clears up the misconceptions and helps others troubleshoot the tach signal.
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  37. #237
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    I'm still alive! lol just been busy with life and work and also getting a few things done on the car when I can. Its definitely time for an update.
    So I had a flat bed come get my car and tow it the shop at the local community college where on of my best friends teaches at. We had a list of things to get done to get the car ready buttoned up mechanically and electronically so me and Ron can get the body on and finally start that chapter. The list was: fix the leak coming out of the transaxle, was a simple fix just pulled the end cap off and applied a good bead of silicone around it and put it back on, so far so good! no more leak next was get the AC working! this should have been fairly easy but ofcourse it wasn't, I was missing the orifice that goes in the AC tube, didn't even realize what that part was until he told me about it, LONG story but I couldn't get it unless I bought a "kit" that a lot of other parts i didn't want or need, but my buddy was able to figure out that it is actually a ford orifice that we were able to get from a part store and put that part in and the AC finally cooled down! not it holds a charge just fine and blows COLD air and I'm impressed by how much air that vintage air unit pushes, next on the list was a getting the tires aligned took awhile but my buddy got them dialed in just right, the only oddity is that right at 2 1/4 turns both left and right the wheel bottoms out on the suspension! anyone else have this problem?! I don't remember reading anyone else having this issue. last thing we had to tackle to be a completely successful day was FIXING THE TACH SIGNAL sigh well.......... its still a problem, my friend found that the PCM has a slightly wrong setting in it. The tach output fields should be 14\15 and they are actually 15/15. My mechanic friend who is also a tuner for LS motors seems to think this is the problem, he also called speartech and they also said that was a mistake and should clean up the signal. Just waiting on his friend to get his cable back to him so he can change those settings. We'll see, I'm skeptical. after all this time and headache its given me it cant be that simple of a fix. Well theres te update! its getting there! just a few more hurdles and its off the the races with body work!





    even in its go kart stage it got alot of attention at the shop, all the guys had questions and loved how good it sounded!

    Last edited by tucker298; 07-04-2017 at 03:08 PM.

  38. #238
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    Finally got the second seat in! Fourth of July rides for the kids!..... and the wife, she loved it! she turned to me after a second gear rip and said " baby, finish your car!"



    Last edited by tucker298; 07-04-2017 at 03:12 PM.

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