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Thread: Chippyhawkeye 818SE build thread

  1. #81
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Hi Tom,
    Great job on this build. (and the other 2)
    I put my glass in before my dash, So no way to drill those holes. Are you using revnuts in the windshield frame?
    I have to change the order on my second car and move the glass to last.
    Bob
    Yes, that is what I do. Rivnuts in the windshield frame. I have yet had to remove the dash after windshield is in, but it is nice to be able to do it if I need to. Windshield is usually done as the last thing before installing bodywork after paint. That is why I screw the body on and not rivet anything.

  2. #82
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    Who's making the modules? I haven't seen that configuration before. Any worry about cooling? Since that's about 144V, I'm guessing AC motor? Should give you about 70-80 miles?

  3. #83
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    I'm still working on the module supplier. I work with a small company in Asia in another business that is willing to make them for me. I still need to finish the design. I don't think I'll have to worry about heat, my peak draw will only by about 60% of the cells rated continuous current. I'm hoping for around 100 miles. Erik Hanson said he got about 50 in a hilly area with 100AH and 144 Volts. I'll have 187AH and a little less weight. But I've also got Air Conditioning so maybe 60

  4. #84
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    Today was a good day! I installed the A/C vents, Defrost vents in the dash. I finished up the center console and mounted the A/C controls. I made the center and the passenger side of the console screw together. The drivers side is riveted. Covered in black vinyl on the top. The bottom will be black carpet later in the build. I tested everything with my trusty 4 amp fuse circuit protector, LOL. All A/C functions are working great! Plenty of room to add stuff to the console later if needed. I also replace damaged rear trans. mount.

    IMG_0206.JPGIMG_0207.JPGIMG_0208.JPGIMG_0209.JPGIMG_0210.JPGIMG_0211.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 10-20-2015 at 06:27 PM.

  5. #85
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    Today was a wiring day. No pics to show. I was able to wire up the ignition switch, horns, A/C condenser fan circuit and power to climate control system. Note: The donor column had some sort of key lock feature that would not allow me to remove key from ignition switch. The solenoid for it was defective. I ended up removing it, now the key works as it should. Must have been some sort of theft deterrent system item gone wrong. Hope to get all the light circuits working tomorrow. Integrating Subaru to EZ-wiring harness is a fun experience. LOL.

  6. #86
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    Another good day. Wired up the headlight circuits, parking/Tail light circuits, Stop lights, Back up lights, Turn signal lights and 4-way flasher circuit. Had to go to a U-Pull it junk yard to get front TS/Prk light sockets. Using LED 1157 bulbs to keep down amp draw. I used relays for lights left over from my first 818S build. Glad I did not throw that stuff out, LOL. Tomorrow will be wipers circuit and tidy up wiring for now. Next week start on body stuff.

  7. #87
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    IMG_0212.JPGIMG_0213.JPG

    Today I install the wiper motor and wired it up. All functions working fine once I got the wiring correct. Plug for motor was wired incorrect for a 2002, it was wired for a 2004. Also install and cut to length the A/C duct hoses. Tidied up wires around steering column and dash area also.

  8. #88
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    Hi on the picture I notice grease nipple on top of A arms Somme people are saying they go under which is it thanks

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by benoit narbonne View Post
    Hi on the picture I notice grease nipple on top of A arms Somme people are saying they go under which is it thanks
    IMO up is easier to service. The top ball joint already faces up anyway. Why not have them all face the same way to service them?

  10. #90
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    Today I did some body work. I mounted the rear tail lights, turn/back up lights, license frame and rear mesh in the rear bumper. ( How about that Gator tag!, LOL.)I also mount mesh in front hood. These are the only places mesh will go since it is a E-Car. I started to mount the side pods and the headlight buckets. This kit has the newer plastic headlight buckets. I was able to make them fit very nice by massaging them some with a heat gun. Kit is coming together very nice. I am impressed with the updates FFR has made to the kit vs older ones. Some very nice mods, IMO.

    IMG_0215.JPGIMG_0216.JPGIMG_0218.JPGIMG_0219.JPG

  11. #91
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    Wow, this is coming together very quickly. Quite a stark comparison to my progress of soldering a dozen wires or so per week! Can't wait to ride in an electric 818!

  12. #92
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    Today I finished up the headlight buckets and mounted the headlights. I hung the front end on the chassis with a couple of clamps and finish terminating all the wires to the headlights/parking/turn signals up front. I mounted the side sails using 10-32 & 1/4-20 screws. I used the same hardware to mount the rear bumper. I just laid the 2 rear hoods in place to check fit and did some shaping around the roll bar area to get a good fit. Every body panel except the removable hoods will be mounted with S/S screws or bolts so it can come apart for paint/ wrap or service. I just do not see the sense of riveting panels IMO. Tomorrow will be more panel fitting and maybe doors and fenders.

    IMG_0220.JPGIMG_0222.JPGIMG_0223.JPGIMG_0225.JPGIMG_0227.JPGIMG_0228.JPG

  13. #93
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    Today I finished up terminating all the rear wiring and tested everything. All works as it should. Everything but the headlights are LED. I used Weather- Tec wire connectors in the rear so the entire rear bumper can be removed easily. I finished up the hood pins on the rear hump panel and started on the trunk lid. Still have some work to do on the trunk lid tomorrow. I hope to install the new trunk kit tomorrow as well and make it removable as well. Hard to believe I picked up the kit 43 days ago, LOL. Guess I am getting better at building 818's, LOL.

    IMG_0229.JPGIMG_0230.JPGIMG_0231.JPGIMG_0233.JPGIMG_0234.JPGIMG_0236.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 10-29-2015 at 05:42 AM.

  14. #94
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    Today I finished up the trunk lid and installed the FFR trunk kit. Kudos to FFR for making such a nice trunk kit. It installed very easy, IMO. Also it really stiffens up the rear of the hump panel. On my previous builds this was a flimsy area of the car. Some members have made braces for this area. The trunk kit fixes the problem great, IMO. Looks nice too! I may carpet the bottom of it when I get near the end of the build. The gaps on the rear panels are almost a perfect 3/16" all the way. I am either getting good at this or lucky, LOL. Taking the next 3 days off the project. I have to clean up the shop and car show this Sat.

    IMG_0238.JPGIMG_0239.JPGIMG_0240.JPGIMG_0242.JPGIMG_0243.JPGIMG_0244.JPGIMG_0245.JPG

  15. #95
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Enjoying your latest build Wallace. You've become quite proficient at building these. Good work.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  16. #96
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    That really is a fast build, full time or not, it's fast, real fast. And looking really good too!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  17. #97
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    Today was one of those days when not every thing went the way you would like it to. I was hoping to mount the doors, fenders and front end. On mounting the door frames I found out my donor stuff had 3 lower hinges and only 1 upper. Off I went to the U-Pull-It boneyard for the correct hinge. Then I found out I was missing the counter sunk screws to mount the latches. Wayne owes me lunch!!! LOL. Off to Lowes to get the correct hardware. So I only got the Passenger door mounted and the drivers frame mounted. I use a little trick on mounting the doors I will share. I place a 1/4" shim under the front lower frame where the 2 lower screws hold the door skin to the frame. I also put a 3/8 shim on the read pad that the latch bolts to. I then tighten all the hinge bolts down and it gets me very close to a perfect fit when I mount the door skin. I counter sink the latch bolts like the GRM build and use Wayne's flashlight trick for the rear catch holes in the body. Very easy to install them, IMO. I end up with 3/16" gaps.

    Wrong! ------------ Right!
    IMG_0246.JPG IMG_0250.JPG


    IMG_0247.JPGIMG_0248.JPGIMG_0249.JPGIMG_0251.JPGIMG_0252.JPGIMG_0253.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 11-02-2015 at 04:51 PM.

  18. #98
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    Today I finished up the doors on both sides. I also mounted the door panels, door handles and misc. door parts. I am waiting on some special plastic rivets to finish up the door panels. Here is some pics.

    IMG_0255.JPGIMG_0256.JPGIMG_0257.JPGIMG_0258.JPGIMG_0259.JPG

  19. #99
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    Nice work keep me some ha!ha!ha!

  20. #100
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    Today I had to mow the grass all morning, UGH! I did get to work 4 hours on the kit. I have the front fenders and front end 90% mounted. I just laid the hood on to see how much I have to adjust the top of the fenders for a good fit. Hope to get the hood done tomorrow. Coming along very nice, IMO.

    IMG_0260.JPGIMG_0261.JPGIMG_0262.JPGIMG_0263.JPG

  21. #101
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Today I finished up the trunk lid and installed the FFR trunk kit. Kudos to FFR for making such a nice trunk kit. It installed very easy, IMO. Also it really stiffens up the rear of the hump panel. On my previous builds this was a flimsy area of the car. Some members have made braces for this area. The trunk kit fixes the problem great, IMO. Looks nice too! I may carpet the bottom of it when I get near the end of the build. The gaps on the rear panels are almost a perfect 3/16" all the way. I am either getting good at this or lucky, LOL. Taking the next 3 days off the project. I have to clean up the shop and car show this Sat.

    IMG_0245.JPG
    Nicely done! I ended up with a monster gap between the back edge of the trunklid and the rear clip. I had hoped the spoiler would help cover it up, but no luck. Yet another winter project.

    Agree that the trunk kit was nice and easy. Any plan to brace/support the bottom of the trunk pan down to the frame? I hit a mental block anytime I consider putting more than a few pounds worth of stuff in the trunk.

  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by billjr212 View Post
    Nicely done! I ended up with a monster gap between the back edge of the trunklid and the rear clip. I had hoped the spoiler would help cover it up, but no luck. Yet another winter project.

    Agree that the trunk kit was nice and easy. Any plan to brace/support the bottom of the trunk pan down to the frame? I hit a mental block anytime I consider putting more than a few pounds worth of stuff in the trunk.
    I do not see the need for that, unless you are carrying cement blocks, LOL.

  23. #103
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    Today I got back the mesh from the powder coaters. Looks good in gloss black. Nice call, Chip. I finished up the front fenders and hood. Tomorrow I will finish up the wiper cowl on the front hood. Then I will take the body back off and start on the interior stuff.

    IMG_0264.JPGIMG_0267.JPGIMG_0268.JPGIMG_0269.JPGIMG_0270.JPG

  24. #104
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    Finished up the hood, wiper cowl and fenders today. Taking the weekend off. Car shows with my Coupe. I personally like the FFR wiper kit. Chip, the black mesh goes well with the wiper cowl, IMO.

    IMG_0271.JPGIMG_0272.JPG

  25. #105
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    Wiper kit look real nice good jobs

  26. #106
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    Well I finished up the front fenders and mounted some aluminum panels. The front splash shields I cover the outside with truck bed liner to protect from road debris. I will mount some rear splash shields tomorrow and finish up removing the body.

    IMG_0277.JPGIMG_0278.JPGIMG_0279.JPGIMG_0280.JPGIMG_0281.JPGIMG_0282.JPG

  27. #107
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    Installed the front splash shields and started to take body back off.

    IMG_0284.JPGIMG_0285.JPG

  28. #108
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    Today I mocked up the rear splash shields. I borrowed a trick from Mike Everson's build and made my rear wheel wells removable. The only difference is I bent the FFR tab over to give more to grab the half moon tin. This way you can remove a few screws and the whole thing comes out in one piece. If you ever had to remove a transmission in a finished 818 you know how handy this will be, LOL. I then coated them with truck bed liner. Removed the rest of the body and power washed every body part. Tomorrow is body buck making day. Body goes out for paint on the 23rd. My customer picked a really cool color. An Audi color Daytona grey pearl. Should look awesome when done.

    IMG_0286.JPGIMG_0287.JPGIMG_0288.JPGIMG_0289.JPGIMG_0292.JPGIMG_0290.JPGIMG_0291.JPG

  29. #109
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    After sweeping out all that fiberglass dust, cough, cough. I was able to work on my body buck to take the body parts to the painter on the 23rd. It was not too bad I mostly assembled the body with 2-3" standoffs and then made a wood frame on wheels to support it all. Normally I take the car to my painter, Huegenics and they work on the chassis some then we take off the body and set it on a body buck like this. I am using a different painter for this build. I wanted to have the body on a buck so he knows a little how it goes together. I still have lots of work to do on the interior and waiting on the EV stuff from EV west. So he can get going on the bodywork and paint in the mean time.

    IMG_0293.JPGIMG_0294.JPGIMG_0295.JPGIMG_0296.JPGIMG_0297.JPGIMG_0298.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 04-05-2016 at 05:34 AM.

  30. #110
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    Today I worked on painting some interior aluminum with black wrinkle paint, Mocking up the hump panel and started on mounting the 3-point seat belts. I use Rivnuts to mount the hump panel. I also drilled, tapped and mounted the FFR shifter knob to the K-Tuned shifter.

    IMG_0304.JPGIMG_0308.JPGIMG_0306.JPGIMG_0307.JPGIMG_0309.JPGIMG_0310.JPGIMG_0311.JPGIMG_0313.JPGIMG_0312.JPG

  31. #111
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I like the fact you post pix in every post.

    Pic 6 last post: what will bolt in the 2 rivnuts on top of the crossbar (V shape in the middle over the engine)?
    I am very interest in the part you are at now, cuz I have cut those bars for my engine and want to see how the FFR alu panels are installed. I'll take any close pix in any different angles you can take of any steps.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  32. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I like the fact you post pix in every post.

    Pic 6 last post: what will bolt in the 2 rivnuts on top of the crossbar (V shape in the middle over the engine)?
    I am very interest in the part you are at now, cuz I have cut those bars for my engine and want to see how the FFR alu panels are installed. I'll take any close pix in any different angles you can take of any steps.
    In the next picture the part of the hump panel that screws to the frame is what the Rivnuts in the frame is secured with. The roll bar is in the way to use the frame that the other Rivnuts are in. When I post the finished piece you will see what I am talking about.

  33. #113
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    Finished up the hump panels. I covered them with headliner material and edge trim. Also finished up seat belts except for inner receptacles. Had my lovely wife, Marsha help me bleed the brakes and adjust e-brk. Also drilled and Tapped the center rear firewall so that every part of the rear firewalls can come out easy if needed.

    IMG_0314.JPGIMG_0315.JPGIMG_0316.JPGIMG_0317.JPGIMG_0318.JPGIMG_0319.JPG

  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I like the fact you post pix in every post.

    Pic 6 last post: what will bolt in the 2 rivnuts on top of the crossbar (V shape in the middle over the engine)?
    I am very interest in the part you are at now, cuz I have cut those bars for my engine and want to see how the FFR alu panels are installed. I'll take any close pix in any different angles you can take of any steps.
    Frank you can most likely just screw that panel down on the bar under the roll bar. I do not think it will be a big issue not to have those screws in the part you cut out, IMO.

    IMG_0310.JPGIMG_0314.JPG

  35. #115
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Interesting indeed.

    I'll take measurement of how wide (back to front) is that alu piece, I wonder if my cam cover will interfere with the alu piece.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  36. #116
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    Today I mounted the 12V voltmeter, the USB outlet and recovered the center of the console with carbon fiber wrap. Wired all of that up. I am going to Moultrie swap meet all day tomorrow and will be taking the body to the painter on Monday.

    IMG_0320.JPGIMG_0321.JPG

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Had a lot of personal stuff to do today. But I got a few hours in this afternoon. I drilled and coated the 2 under the car aluminum plates. 160 3/16" holes drilled over my head with the chassis on my lift as high as it goes. Talk about an arm pump, LOL. Worth the effort though. Coated with truck bed liner on the bottom. Just as a note: FFR has modified the 2 under car plates. They now cover all the holes to the interior floor.

    Attachment 45934Attachment 45935
    Looking at those pictures I was wondering what steps you go thru to paint all the aluminium panels?
    Drill with Cleco, debur, paint, rivet with silicone?

    Another thing, what kind of lift is this? Satisfied?

  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coolspot View Post
    Looking at those pictures I was wondering what steps you go thru to paint all the aluminium panels?
    Drill with Cleco, debur, paint, rivet with silicone?

    Another thing, what kind of lift is this? Satisfied?
    Drill, Cleco, debur, clean with acetone, scuff surface with 60 grit, paint on truck bedliner then silicone and rivet. They are from Direct Lift. Very happy I had2 post for 7 years, 4 post for 3.

  39. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Drill, Cleco, debur, clean with acetone, scuff surface with 60 grit, paint on truck bedliner then silicone and rivet. They are from Direct Lift. Very happy I had2 post for 7 years, 4 post for 3.
    Thank you!

  40. #120
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    Took the body to a paint shop I normally do not use today for paint. The entire staff is very pumped to be working on the 818! They begged me to allow them to see the car when finished. I told them of course. Here is a picture with the owner, his son and other employee. They are so stoked, it was great to see their faces light up when I brought the body to them. I finished up wiring the sound system. It is a system my customer picked out. We use an amp, nice speakers up front in the side area and a blue tooth setup for his phone. He wanted everything hidden so I was able to mount it under the dash out of sight but still have access to adjust it if needed. Hope to get some stuff from EV West soon. I am close to running out of things to do till that stuff gets here. I have some big shows this month anyway. Turkey rod run on Sat.

    IMG_0322.JPGIMG_0328.JPGIMG_0325.JPGIMG_0327.JPGIMG_0324.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 04-05-2016 at 05:33 AM.

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