Would you do it all over again?

[jsanzo]

Hey guys, I'm a car guy who knows next to nothing about cars, and want to use the 818 to fix that.

I'm wondering how the community feels about their cars. Obviously the cars are fast but would you do it all over again? and If so what would you do differently?

Would you use an Ecoboost instead of the ej25?

Donor vs a kit from VCP?

I'd love to hear from you guys

[68GT500MAN]

Welcome to the forum. I have not built an 818 (yet) but I know of some who have built more than one and they enjoyed the experience.
Doug

[thall818]

I've restored several old cars and this is both my first kit and my first experience with ecu/fuel injected vehicles. I have to say, this is the most fun I've had in a long time. Building this thing is tons of fun. Not without headaches, but tons of fun.

I used a 2002 WRX Wagon as my donor. If I built another, I would do everything different, but not because I'm unhappy, just to build something different.

Part of the fun is that no two are the same.

I'm not very helpful, but everything is a function of time, space, and money. If you have the space to dismantle, it's a fun and you learn a lot. If space is a concern, buy a crate.

I used iWire and am very happy I did. If anything, a non-turbo high performance engine would be appealing. The turbo adds expense with the AWIC.

Yes, so far I would do it again, but I haven't started on the body yet, so that could change. LOL

[07FIREBLADE]

If anything I would use the FA motor over the ecoboost. The EJ motor is perfectly fine in with NA or turbo you just need to be mindful of the flaws and build accordingly. Do your research and you will be fine with whichever motor you choose. Your budget will dictate what you could do with this car.

[Mitch Wright]

YES, I would do it all over again, I am have a ton of fun on this project.
I have built a number of cars over the years my 818 R is my first kit. I am about 60% complete and it has been fun building it to what I want and my goals. I would recommend a donor but I am a hands on learner.

[Pearldrummer7]

Before tracking it, I would say 80% yes- I'd build it again.

After tracking it? 100%. I would order it tomorrow if I didn't have it today. No question in my mind.


I would NOT use a rusty donor, though. I'd just buy a Southern car.

[Buzz Skyline]

Absolutely. I enjoyed building it and love driving it. I would also go with a donor again. Tearing it down was its own challenge and well worth the effort.

The logical part of me says that if I were to do it over I would go with a naturally aspirated engine. The twelve year old inside me would lobby for a turbo. That swish of boost and blast of the bypass valve is a symphony for the juvenile part of me. Even the way the car gets all unsettled when the boost kicks in is a thrill. Frankly, the twelve year in me old usually wins, and probably would again if I were to start over

[STiPWRD]

I would do it again for sure, this has been a dream come true! I would devote a significant amount of time to surfing this forum and learning as much as possible - the knowledge here will make life much easier. I also went with a donor (my daily driver of 10 years) and would do that again, although I did upgrade many parts along the way. Be prepared to spend many months, possibly years on building depending on how much free time you have. Also, sticking to a budget can be very difficult.

EJ25 turbo all the way!

[C.Plavan]

If building a 818R. Go with a 2.5L NA. Ditch the turbo. Have it built right for racing. You will come out with a much cheaper costing race car, more reliable, simpler, and most of all, much lighter.

[brian b 36]

i am building my sec one got my first one 10-26-14 it know has 1400 miles on it sec one i got in july just need iwire harness to fire it up

[Buzz Skyline]

i am building my sec one got my first one 10-26-14 it know has 1400 miles on it sec one i got in july just need iwire harness to fire it up

Wow. Why two? Track and street?

[Aero STI]

I would absolutely do it all over again. My only disappointment has been the last minute change from "no paint bodywork" and the resultant poor body fit and finish of fiberglass panels. That is partially addressed with the new front end and red gel coat process.

[jaw777]

I will definitely do it again someday. I will probably build a different car, but I have no regrets. If I built an 818 again I am not sure I would do the turbo. I would also be more careful when dieting my wiring harness or pay for a wiring solution. Fixing my wiring mistakes has been very time consuming, but at the same time I have learned a lot about wiring diagrams and vehicle wiring.

[Hindsight]

I'd do it again. Like others, I'd probably go N/A. The only issue is that you aren't going to make huge power N/A. Is it enough to still be REAL fast on a road race course? Yes. Is it enough to run low 10 second quarter miles? Probably not. My goal is to be fast in both of these areas. If I just wanted to drive it on the street and road race it, I would go with an H6 N/A.

I might build a different car next time. Not because I don't love the 818 but only because I would want to try something different for a second build.

[redfogo]

For all the guys who run turbo set up and rather go NA next time. Anything you can expand on?

[Hindsight]

For all the guys who run turbo set up and rather go NA next time. Anything you can expand on?

1. More complexity
2. More weight
3. No one has completed and proven an air to air intercooler setup that works well enough to keep intake temps in check. So going to an air-water intercooler works well, but does add time, cost, and weight
4. More cost

For me personally, I'm still glad I went turbo and if I were to go back in time, I'd still go turbo for my first build. But for a second build, I'd just want to do something different.

[brian b 36]

i had a guy come up to me at open house the broke his leg after he got his kit #142 wth all the ffr options and 06 sti swap that could not complete or fit in the car scored it for 14000

[longislandwrx]

3. No one has completed and proven an air to air intercooler setup that works well enough to keep intake temps in check. So going to an air-water intercooler works well, but does add time, cost, and weight

I could be wrong but six star's seems to be holding up.

[redfogo]

1. More complexity
2. More weight
3. No one has completed and proven an air to air intercooler setup that works well enough to keep intake temps in check. So going to an air-water intercooler works well, but does add time, cost, and weight
4. More cost

For me personally, I'm still glad I went turbo and if I were to go back in time, I'd still go turbo for my first build. But for a second build, I'd just want to do something different.

Well I'm already on the hook for turbo motor since its on a pallet in my garage. I have a few ideas rolling in my mind to help with the heat I just need my #15 818c to get built/shipped so I can test out the ideas. Coming from turbo MR2 world I have done and seen few methods that have helped solve this issue. That's for another thread though .

I do agree though turbo track cars while fun are far more complex to get running right on a track especially once you start to mod things. Slippery slope. Thanks for your opinion!

[svanlare]

It is taking longer than I thought to put together but absolutely enjoying the process and would do it again.

I bought a pallet donor and not sure I would do that a second time. I ended up sourcing more parts than I expected.

I am currently at the wiring phase and in fact I am doing it a second time and this time I'm buying a harness from iWire. I needed to keep more of the original wires than I wanted from the harness meaning the infinityBox setup didn't simplify as much as I wanted. That and the donor only came with a body harness and left all all the sub harnesses so I was having to solve that problem too.

[Blitzkrieg]

I would do it again, but flat 6 (turbo or supercharged... Or both) coupe with A/C.

[metros]

I would do it again but go in with different priorities and expectations. I anticipated a bolt together affair. I now know that everything will need at the very least tweaked to work correctly or thrown out and re-designed.

I think I will end up purchasing another FFR kit car but next time I'll go with the cobra for my son and I to build together. I'm happy with the 818 for my first choice though.

[Hindsight]

I think I will end up purchasing another FFR kit car but next time I'll go with the cobra for my son and I to build together. I'm happy with the 818 for my first choice though.

Cobra was my first choice but to do one the way I'd want to do one, it would end up around $45k - $50k and that's just more than I wanted to spend. Still love the Cobra and may do one some day.

[Edgeman]

I built the GTM the first time and would do it again. I think I had more fun building and researching for parts than I did driving it. I did have fun driving don't get me wrong. For my second car I am looking at the 818S or C. I am in the planning stages for now.

[Mechie3]

I would, but would adjust my expectations. It wasn't (at least early kits) as bolt together as initially marketed and fit and finish of the body panels wasn't as good as I hoped. The coupe will help this somewhat and they have made several fixes. It was still lots of fun and I wouldn't mind building more.

[wallace18]

yes, I would do it again but build a N/A car. I would do a VCP pallet instead of a donor car.

[C.Plavan]

I could be wrong but six star's seems to be holding up.

I think he only got a few laps or a session before his unbraced splitter broke. Drag racing does not count.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I could be wrong but six star's seems to be holding up.

I think he only got a few laps or a session before his unbraced splitter broke. Drag racing does not count.

Six star is not using the factory intercooler. He is using air getting suck out of the back of the car through a RMIC.
1017564_498103486964685_1244416500_n.jpg

[redfogo]

Six star is not using the factory intercooler. He is using air getting suck out of the back of the car through a RMIC.
1017564_498103486964685_1244416500_n.jpg

throw some puller fans on that and I dont see why that wouldn't help cut down the heat soak.

[Hindsight]

Has he posted intake temps? My concern with a rear placement is that you are using hot air from the engine compartment to perform your cooling. We've all seen how hot the engine compartment gets...

[C.Plavan]

Has he posted intake temps? My concern with a rear placement is that you are using hot air from the engine compartment to perform your cooling. We've all seen how hot the engine compartment gets...

Ding...Ding....Ding... +1

[longislandwrx]

Six star is not using the factory intercooler. He is using air getting suck out of the back of the car through a RMIC.
1017564_498103486964685_1244416500_n.jpg

no one said factory intercooler, air to air intercooler was the statement.

I will be using a grimmspeed a2a, mounted farther back vented out the rear with an additional (STi or similar) scoop.

but I wont be able to prove that it works for a while.

worst case. over the humps. DSC00428.jpg but I wont be going a2w

by holding up I mean hasn't blown the motor.

[redfogo]

no one said factory intercooler, air to air intercooler was the statement.

I will be using a grimmspeed a2a, mounted farther back vented out the rear with an additional (STi or similar) scoop.

but I wont be able to prove that it works for a while.

worst case. over the humps. DSC00428.jpg but I wont be going a2w

by holding up I mean hasn't blown the motor.

On my turbo mr2 I ran a trunk mount intercooler with a duct grabbing air from the rear of the car the puller fans would pull the air from a fresh air source. My temps were always good however I did have a firewall in between the engine bay and the rear trunk of the car. So maybe it be worth it to make a similar wall or once the 818c is out run it like the Rs200 rally car did

automotive-autosport-international-show-birmingham-nec-2012-engine-bay-of-ford-rs200-pike.jpg

[longislandwrx]

good thing FFR already makes a trunk kit that can easily be covered in reflective tape , easily vented to the rear and can bolt a scoop right on top!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post195136

[JeromeS13]

Has he posted intake temps? My concern with a rear placement is that you are using hot air from the engine compartment to perform your cooling. We've all seen how hot the engine compartment gets...

Nope. I asked him in his thread that he made about the recent ultimate streetcar challenge that he went to. No response.

[C.Plavan]

good thing FFR already makes a trunk kit that can easily be covered in reflective tape , easily vented to the rear and can bolt a scoop right on top!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post195136

A wing mount will take some creative cutting.

[CU9DZ]

Why I hate this FFR kit.
1) American fractional bolts and clutch/brake lines. The Subaru donor car parts are metric. The kit came with some metric nuts and bolts and some fractional nuts and bolts. Also the brake and clutch line connectors were fractional with connectors to convert back to metric for the master and slave cylinders. This probably saved FFR a few bucks but makes for more connectors on the lines and more confusion when disassembling anything. Also they are selling this kit outside the USA where people may not have fractional tools. Why not make the kit all metric?

[CU9DZ]

2) The kit was designed to sell for a profit at $10,000. And designed for minimum weight. I can see plenty of places where they cut corners to keep the price down. When you build something to sell at a certain price point there are always compromises to the end product. (Many years ago I had a 65 Mustang. The car had flimsy bumpers and included a bumper jack. The first time I used the jack the bumper just bent upwards). The minimum weight means you get a frame that just barely fits the engine and barely fits two small people. The body panels only attach to the frame in a few places because there isn’t much of a frame to begin with. The leg room in the cabin was tight so I had to get the Boyd tank.
3) Every body panel and plenty of the aluminum pieces needed trimming to fit correctly. Where two body panels meet you get an ugly gap.

[CU9DZ]

4) The whole front end is very difficult to align correctly. The head lights are between the bumper section and the fenders. To fit the headlights correctly you have to keep taking off the fenders. Also the very front edge of the fender comes to a point that is only supported by the hood bracket and that is only attached to plastic and fiberglass. The Bat Man style hood has a 90 degree lip on the edges of it to give it some strength but you have to shave off most of that to make the hood look like is lines up with the fenders. If the lip on the fenders was lower there wouldn’t be any need to shave down the hood.

[CU9DZ]

5) The shifter cables go forward from the shifter to the front firewall then to the left then all the way to the back. Why not use an MR2 style shifter and route the cables back?
6) The non-existent exhaust system. My kit came with a short section of exhaust pipe with a slight bend in it and big flanges on both ends. The flanges were so far out of flat that the piece is worthless. Seriously FFR the Egyptians could make giant pieces of granite that were flat but you can’t. I now have a short spun cat a few sections of pipe and a muffled I had hanging around. Waiting for my very busy on to have time to do some welding.

I will keep working on my list.