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Thread: Kit 075 Restart

  1. #1

    Kit 075 Restart

    Picked up Kit 075 from Bill Ondo in Portage Indiana last Friday. I had noticed the kit for sale on this forum while studying and planning to purchase a new kit. Bill's work caught my eye as he has fabricated some first class alternatives to standard installs. Things that particularly impressed me were mods he made to the fuel line, installing an external fuel pump, his own fabrication of the hydraulic clutch system and several other detailed items that I felt made this kit special.

    Challenge now is to make it mine. Bill recommended we go back to the start and go through it item by item and I think we will follow his advice. We got the car to the shop Sunday and have off loaded it now. We are starting an inventory of all parts on or off of the car. There is no proper way to start this thread without a shout out to Bill and his lovely wife Karin. They were gracious and helpful. It is a real pleasure to take this kit and build it following in his footsteps. Bill was also quite clear that I should put a lot of my own self into the build, and I intend to. I am not by myself on this one either.

    My team consists of my wife who worked with me to determine what I was looking for and the encouragement to go out for kit 075 in lieu of a new kit from the factory. The rest of the team consists of the guys at SNL Performance in Haslett Texas, including Steve and Loyd the owners, January, Jacob, Brian, and Daniel the SNL staff. James Karger LSTuner, will ultimately get involved down the road. Finally, it would be hard for anyone that didn't know us to appreciate Ethyl, who made a good deal of this possible. Ethyl was my first return to high performance cars in nearly35 years and the second GTO I owned.

    In the same fashion people ask us if our 33's are kit cars, a lot of them also said Ethyl wasn't a real GTO. We built Ethyl over a 10 year period from a mild street performance ride that was comfortable for the morning commute, to a purpose built focused drag car that was knocking on the door for some impressive accomplishments. On the day Ethyl died she had a 434 Ci LSx motor with twin 6767 double ball bearing turbos making 1256 rwhp and 1504 rwtq on E85. That power was channeled through an FTi Stage 5 TH400 and a GForce1320 9" Ford IRS with a Mosier Pumpkin and Strange S-Trac Diff running 3.25 gears. On that day we were getting ready to go back to the track for our first sub 8 second passes. Loose gravel, skinny tires, and a Ford F350 towing a gooseneck trailer ended all that. Even so, the performance built and custom fabricated components off the car contributed heavily to this build we are starting now. Our initial intent was to put the Ford 9 inch, TH400 and LSx in a 33 but the new school motor would not let us run in the old Fuel Altered Classes so we decided to just enjoy the FFR 33 Ford build and have fun with the car.

    So here was Ethyl on her best day


    Here is Bill and Karin with the Hot Rod



    Here is Steve and Loyd as we picked the car up


    Here is the Hot Rod in it's new home


    Here is My Best Friend and I with the Hot Rod
    Last edited by wrp; 09-22-2015 at 07:34 PM.

  2. #2
    Just getting to know the car and inventorying like mad. Kinda eyeballing the Kilduff Shifter

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  3. #3
    Working around with the exhaust I noticed two Garret 61 mm Turbos sitting in the shop corner. I really wanted this car to be a fun car to drive, reliable and so forth. But the turbos kept looking at me. So I picked them up and sent them off to Reed Partridge at Works Turbo in Birmingham AL. Reed is going to go through them, re spec them, and rebuild them. They made 1000 rewhip on a mildly modded LS3. Not sure what we will ultimately shoot for on the small block chevy. On the other hand, got a brand new LSx block sitting over in the same corner of the shop. Kind of thinking over whether to mount them low, high, or in the back.

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  4. #4
    Starting to move forward on the car now. I have spent a couple of months studying it and studying the build threads. Getting a car that someone else has done a lot of the work on already has advantages and disadvantages. We decided to backup the build as much as is feasible to ensure we went through each of the major components for knowledge more than any other reason. First big step will be to tackle the exhaust. I went ahead and picked up a pair of shorty headers recommended in the Small Block Chevrolet Supplement. Bill, who started the car had done a fantastic job mocking up zoom headers with Harley Davidson Motorcycle mufflers in the tubes. The work needed to be finished though and we were having trouble finding a welder that would take the job on. So we bought the shorties from Jegs figuring to go back later with the roomies, or at best have two exhaust concepts to change configurations from time to time. We took the shorties in to have them ceramic coated at specialized Performance Coatings in Irving Texas. Michael recommended a welder in his industrial park who welded up the roomies so I am on my way to having two interchangeable exhaust systems. The Internet is to fabricate an alignment bracket for the end of the tubes. The shorties will be ceramic coated to a high gloss while the roomies will be ceramic coated in black.

    P1010059.jpgP1010051.jpgZoomies.jpg
    Last edited by wrp; 12-26-2015 at 10:17 AM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    It looks like you all have found yourself one heck of a project! From the looks of things, you are off to a great start as well.

    I have to confess to a bit of envy, when you can look around your garage and find a set of turbos lying there; and an LSx block to boot. I think I would like to look around your garage! ;-o)

    The engine in your build is beautiful. I can't imagine what the numbers will be with those turbos in there as well. I suspect a pretty regular need for tires will be in your future.

    Best of luck in your build, and I have enjoyed reading your updates. I look forward to your posts!

    Regards,

    Steve

  6. #6
    Thanks. The motor in the car currently is a SBC Crate engine. I understand it made 550 on the engine dyne but we have not had it fired up yet so have to see what the drivetrain allows. My intent is to finish the car with that power train and build the LSx/Turbo combo while enjoying the car. The silver 2004 GTO beside it made 1256/1504 on larger turbos and a 434 Ci block. It also ran 9.2 @ 154 fully loaded at 4000 lbs. When we decided on the 33 we were looking for something mild. I guess I am in the process of falling off the wagon and succumbing to my addiction. We are looking at around 1,000 wheel horse power on the LS combo. I have to confess, I do wonder what we could turn the SBC up to.

  7. #7
    So we got the car up on the rack today for the first time and started taking a good look at the work done thus far.
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    Last edited by wrp; 01-14-2016 at 10:28 PM.

  8. #8
    Mo Pics.

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    Last edited by wrp; 01-15-2016 at 10:48 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    WRP
    I vote for twin snails in the back since you tossed that option out there. Hasn't been done yet on a FF 33
    This build will be fun to watch. I see you have a drag racing past so we are likely after the same thing a HARD launch.
    FWIW I saw a panhard in one picture, couldn't see the banana bracket but I assume that what it has. With the kind of
    power you have run in the past I assume you are going to change that to a 4 link and dial in the IC on it. The car does
    have a decent percentage of the weight on the back so it should hook pretty hard if properly sorted out. BUT The upper
    links on a 33 regardless of 3 or 4 link are so short that a slight change in ride height really skews the launch potential.

    I went with 4 link and heims all around to stop the binding potential of the links as delivered but there were still several others limits
    that had to be dealt with to get the anti-squat % just right on my 33. Building different torque boxes and moving chassis tabs helped.
    Dale B 7L Hemi 33

  10. #10
    I have a friend that runs a nostalgia dragster who is trying to get me to go to an old school semi. The initial goal was to not go as extreme as the GTO was. We were talking at the shop today about the 9 second pass coming back with 4 miles on the odometer because the car was all over the track. Steve Addison, my colleague and the shop owner is one of the best turbo idea people I have ever worked with. Steve designed and worked with the fabricator to produce what was one of the first front mount twin turbo applications for the GTOs. He has also done some fabulous work on CTSV's. I was going to just leave the car a carbonated abc but well...they were just laying there and I thought it would be fun to see what steve comes up with. Right now we are debating IC or not thinking we are only going to boost 5 pounds, well maybe 10, well, who knows I am pushing for a front mount that fits under a closed hood. The Garrets we have are very small for the output and made 1000 to the wheels on a CTSV with a built LS3.Although we are staying with the small block, there is this big orange LSx out there with my name on it.

    I had a lot of parts left over from the GTO and even though the previous owner had bought the first class leather seats, I have been thinking about using the rear seat of the GTO to make the cabin seats for the Ford. There is a lot of useful leather covered console material in thise seats. If I can ever figure out how to get pictures to work on here I will get them up better.

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    Last edited by wrp; 01-15-2016 at 08:10 PM.

  11. #11
    Another challenge has been the exhaust. Bill Ondo, the original owner did a fantastic jobe building some zooms. I had decided to try to finish them and use them but also wanted the traditional exhaust to be available. The kit was sold in 2009 and Bill had fabricated a SBC motor mount a little different from the war that FF ultimately makes them now. End result is the shorties that are recommended in the SBC supplement won't work on my car. Bill also installed the hydraulic clutch line in a way that I am going to have to relocate it to use the factory exhaust. Of course everything is tentative and depends on the direction with the Turbos. Had intended to set the car up to run on the carburetor only. Original intent was to build an LSx with the Turbo setup. So anyhow. figured to set up the roomies and the shorties recommended in the SBC supplement. Just gonna take longer.

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  12. #12
    Stopped off by ASM Upholstery in Dallas today to discuss the seat idea with Sue. First time I have met her. She is very knowledgeable and really has a lot of great ideas.

  13. #13
    Looking at the rear seat from Ethyl it seems to me that I can cut it down to fit the 33 easier than the front buckets. I pulled them apart today to start measuring and fabricating. I think the project will be simple. I need to narrow the frames on the top and bottom, shorten the tops. Modify the foam to fit, find an upholsterer who can narrow the leather covers, then figure out how to mount it all. The rear seat console stuff is all leather on styrofoam so all I have to do is shape the console I want then use the leather on the rear seat consoles to cover the end result. What I would hope for is a rear seat/bench seat effect, like the GTO rear. Here are some shots of the disassembled seats.






  14. #14
    So got another step closer on the headers. Got them welded and braced. Not going any further with them until we start the car. Then we will be able to get them cleaned up and coated. We are also starting the plumbing on our follow on motor.

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  15. #15
    Got our Garret Turbos back from Work Turbochargers today. Reed Partridge has been a mainstay of our efforts with Turbocharged engines for the past couple of years. He went through the Garrets and upgraded them/rebuilt them. These Turbos made 1150+ rewhip on an LS3 CTSV. We are studying right now but leaning towards a 376 Ci LSx with Mast Heads and Callies Ultra Magnum Crank. We had to cut the last LSx engine of at about 1700 to the crank because we underachieved on the crank we bought. We thought to limit the build to 700-800 Horsepower but I am pretty sure that is not possible.

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  16. #16
    So we are debating where we are going to mount the Turbos. Our main designer wants to do a rear mount but there is so much room up front and down low with the Garrets. Where ever it ends up, I am stoked. Here are some goofing off views of possible locations

    Attachment 50388Attachment 50389Attachment 50390

  17. #17
    Here are the remaining shots

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    Last edited by wrp; 02-06-2016 at 08:00 PM.

  18. #18
    So, I have been working quite a bit on getting the doors mounted and aligned with the latches working. I had reached the point of giving up and was asking local area body shops if any had experience with he FFR 33 doors. I have read everything I could find and watched all the videos but was having no luck. With the doors aligned and braces tightened, I could not get the latch to completely engage on the post with the latch extended as far inboard on the door and the striker post as far outboard on the body as I could make it happen. I was concerned that if I opened up the braces any more for adjustment that I would ruin them. Also I have to admit the thought of the stress point on the door being at the maximum outward position just made me a little nervous. I figured one more swat at it before I gave top and decided to develop offset plates for the latch assembly to fasten to the bracing inside the door. My reasoning was that I could move the latch further inboard and then just the striker post inward giving the entire mechanism more strength and allowing more adjustment. I fabricated a prototype plate, not really worrying about how it looked, striving for the functionality than form at this point.Got it bolted up and the door closed with two clicks. Hot damned I was excited. I fabricated the opposite side plate and at the end of the day both doors closed with two clicks, and did so solidly. The alignment is a bit off now, I need to adjust the striker posts inward and with the door completely closing I will need to trim some more on the lip. In the process of bolting up the passenger side door I experienced a problem with the latch no clicking twice, only once. Investigation revealed that the unlatching mechanism can get in a bind with the fiberglass resulting in the door failing to click twice when engaging. I am going to go back to my original install to see if I may have been having that problem to begin with. I do like the offset plates and figure I can actually cut them to fit nicely onto the door itself. They would provide a stronger mounting than the fiberglass sandwiched between the brace and the latch. Would appreciate any comments or observations.

    Door Latch-1.jpgDoor Latch-2.jpgDoor Latch-3.jpgDoor Latch-4.jpgDoor Latch-5.jpgDoor Latch-6.jpgDoor Latch-7.jpg

  19. #19
    Hi WRP, I am just wondering if you were able to get past the latching issue with the doors. The driver side went easy on mine but the passenger side took me a while to get past. I've looked at your photos a few times now trying to think of what it could be that would want the door drawn in that much. Only thing I can think of that you may want to just verify because you got your build mid stream is that the latch pin bracket (that mounts to the frame) is mounted on the outside of the frame not on the inside. If I remember correctly I thought it was to mount on the inside because there is a pocket in the frame that looks like it should be mounted there but I think really goes outside the frame. Sorry, can't think of anything else to check.

  20. #20
    Hey WRP,

    I had some issue with the doors too. I ended up cutting the head off the striker. I filed 2 flats on the sides so I could get a 7/16 wrench on it. I had to file the mounting bracket with a rat tail file so I could get the striker closer to the outside of the car. The flat washer edge is less than 1/4" from the outside of the car. Once I did that - I was able to easily fully latch the doors.
    Hope that helps.

  21. #21
    Thanks for the inputs. Travelling right now, will try it pout when OI return

  22. #22
    I certainly appreciate the suggestions. The striker plate base was on the wrong side of the frame and that is why the doors would not shut.

    http://vid512.photobucket.com/albums...pserdiis2w.mp4

  23. #23

  24. #24
    Our goal was to get the car started this week. We started at the back of the car, wiring it and finishing off installation items. We should get the car started tomorrow. Maybe running as well. Got the trunk finished out mostly tonight with the residual being the latches. Also got the front hinges mounted as well.

    Electrical-7.jpgElectrical-8.jpgElectrical-9.jpgElectrical-10.jpgElectrical-11.jpg

    Trunk-7.jpgTrunk-8.jpgTrunk-9.jpgTrunk-10.jpgElectrical-9.jpgTrunk-12.jpg

  25. #25
    First start today.


  26. #26
    So I have seen a few fantastic efforts some of the members have made with Quik Latch Pins. I have decided at least initially, to use the pins for the trunk and the hood. Before you laugh at my aluminum base plates,l we intend to scroll cut them and perhaps do some etching. The good news is that I can adjust the base strikers if I have to move my trunk lid around. Next effort will be on the hood.

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  27. #27
    In the last couple of weeks we have gone through the wiring and have begun installing the interior.

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    Last edited by wrp; 04-17-2016 at 01:59 PM.

  28. #28
    Last edited by wrp; 04-18-2016 at 09:16 PM.

  29. #29
    Last edited by wrp; 04-19-2016 at 04:02 PM.

  30. #30
    Link won't open.

  31. #31
    Got the interior carpet finished today

    Carpet-25.jpg

  32. #32

  33. #33
    Senior Member
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    Chapel Hill, NC
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    1,574
    She's looking sharp! You've been pretty busy.

    I really like your work. I also appreciate the updates, and really enjoy seeing your progress.

    Regards,

    Steve

  34. #34
    Thanks Steve, I have a really talented team of guys helping me. Fact is Steve Addison and Loyd Mead of SNL Performance and Monster Clutch have backed me all the way with time and resources. The younger guys pitch in and help with areas I physically can't manage and they have a much broader and more specific knowledge of critical areas such as wiring. One thing I have learned is that it would be easier to build a kit from scratch as opposed to one someone has already started. Lots of things can be wrong and throw you off but you won't know it until it is too late.

  35. #35
    Had to cheat up a little this week. The passenger side fitment for the SBC motor whipped me. Took the car to Kinney's Muffler in Hurst/Euless/Bedford Texas last Tuesday and they are working out the exhaust. The biggest problem has been the passenger side header. They got it straightened out and tucked the collector in and down. For the rest of the exhaust we went with smaller bullet type Mufflers and I chose to V band all the connections from the collectors to the rear pipes. A little more expensive but cleaner and certainly more adaptable to the rear mounted twin turbos that will eventually go into the car.

    2016-06-02 15.18.33 copy.jpg2016-06-02 15.18.33 copy.jpg2016-06-02 15.15.57 copy.jpg2016-06-02 15.16.12 copy.jpg2016-06-02 15.16.17 copy.jpg2016-06-02 15.19.23 copy.jpg
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    Last edited by wrp; 06-02-2016 at 08:54 PM.

  36. #36
    Wrestling with the Passenger side header beat me. I tried moving the motor forward, tried the SBC supplemental kits, tried the new downpipes for SBC but I could not get them to work without welding which I do not do. So I broke down and had the guy that built the exhaust on my 9 second GTO work out a system for the Ford. Since our aspirations are mild we went with a two inch setup using the recommended shorty headers from the SBC supplemental recommendation. The car was partially assembled when I got it so fighting to get the FFR components in was sort of beyond me as well. Net result was we had the header on the passenger side modified to curve down and inward, then tied the exhaust system together into five sections. Headers, downpipes, mufflers, over the axle pipes, and finally tips. each major section is tied together with v bands so removal is a snap.

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  37. #37
    Senior Member dallas_'s Avatar
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    Looks fantastic. Just ran across this thread and love the work you are doing on the car.
    Sounds like you are in the D/FW area. Don't know of any other 33's around town. Hope to see it someday.
    John
    FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
    SL-C in progress

  38. #38
    There is a 33 Kit car, it isn't factory five. I have run into him at a couple of car shows, Kellers especially.

  39. #39
    Tackled the gas tank filler neck debacle today. When we just installed the components from the kit, the result is a filler neck that slopes away from the tank towards the fill cap that is mounted in the trunk. We were able to shorten the actual billet filler neck sleeve and then shorten the tank and filler neck end of the hoses and pretty much flatten the tube from the cap to the tank. There is only one place where a minimal amount of gas gets trapped filling it now and the tank takes gas at a pretty decent rate. Kudos and thanks to Tecmotion and others who discussed fixing this.

    2016-06-04 09.16.40.jpg Gas filler cap assembly before mod

    2016-06-07 16.31.27.jpgAfter Modification
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  40. #40
    We have been fitting the Innovative Rodding Console and are pretty close to making the holes in the dash to finish the mount. I am pretty pleased with the awesome quality of this piece.

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