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Thread: Kit 075 Restart

  1. #161
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    So We call this the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat. Got everything together then last minute fumbling torquing the intake stripped two bolt holes in the heads. Considering options for now

    New Engine_1172.jpgNew Engine_1173.jpgNew Engine_1175.jpgNew Engine_1176.jpgNew Engine_1176.jpgNew Engine_1178.jpg

  2. #162
    Ol Skool
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    Helicoil kit will work fine. Mask off the valley and ports. Drill, tap, shop vac, insert, repeat as required.

  3. #163
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    Have a guy that has done it coming over this week and we are going to do that. Also looking at some aftermarket aluminum heads. Thinking about foregoing the LS motor



  4. #164
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    Learned a lot, or relearned a lot


  5. #165
    Senior Member dallas_'s Avatar
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    You sure work faster than I do.
    FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
    SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,

  6. #166
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    Its the drugs

  7. #167
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    Gimme some!

  8. #168
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    Heil Coil wouldn't hold. Took the heads back to the machine shop. Either to repair or replace with better ones.

    IMG_1196.jpgIMG_1197.jpgIMG_1198.jpgIMG_1199.jpg

  9. #169
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    Am I seeing that right? They painted inside of your combustion chamber on the heads?

  10. #170
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    Yep hadn't figured that out yet either

  11. #171
    Ol Skool
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    Hmmm. I've never seen a helicoil not work in iron heads?? That must be special hi temp glyptal ceramic in the chambers?? Maybe deep thread Keenserts?
    Time for bigger port heads??

  12. #172
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    There was just not enough metal to hold the helical. Now there is and there are steel sleeves inserted. The orange paint was because they redid the valve seats, said it made it easier to see the work. Got the heads on and going to do the valve adjustments tonight. new intake gasket be in in the morning. Hope to fire her off tomorrow


    IMG_1202.jpgIMG_1203.jpgIMG_1204.jpgIMG_1205.jpg

  13. #173
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    First start tonight. Fired her up and ran her thirty minutes at various speeds between 100 rpm and 2500 rpm. Letting her cool now for the second set tomorrow.



  14. #174

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    Nice!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  15. #175
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    Funny thing about this is I have been screwing around with Hot Rods for the past few years. I now feel closer to this car than any of the ones I have owned recently.

  16. #176
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    First Drive Today


  17. #177
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    Rushing to get the car together wound up wit pretty bad exhaust leaks on both sides. The cheap chinese heads on the motor are somewhat sketchy on bolt holes and the strength of the metal. We took the headers off and read the leaks, noting where the most obvious were. using the old gaskets as a template, sanded the exhaust port openings flat eliminating as much of the low areas as is possible. Repeated the process on the other side then sanded the flanges on the headers flat. When everything looked as good as the arthritis would let me I ran a tap into the heads to clean out the holes. There was quite a bit of debris in them which I found surprising marked off the depth of the tap and made sure the bolts all went in equally then put them back together using the Fuel-Pro gaskets that separately seal each port. Really stoked by the results.. No Tick Tick Tick

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  18. #178
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    Having a hard time, valves are sticking. Assuming the heads are just garbage. Got a set of Vortec Heads today from a good friend. Try that route to see if it works better.

    IMG_1237.jpgIMG_1238.jpgIMG_1239.jpgIMG_1240.jpgIMG_1247.jpgIMG_1249.jpgIMG_1250.jpg

  19. #179

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    Man you're having a hard time over there. She's making you pay a toll for all those fun miles we've been watching!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  20. #180
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    I had a 46 harley in my younger days, had head work done and they put bronze guides in . Had all kind of problems , hound them until they were no good!! Found a old person that made guides out of good cast iron, no more problems with valves!

  21. #181
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    Mainly inexperience. Went back through and readjusted the valves today. I think a couple of pushrods might have been bent when we were installing the motor. Rockers are still loose but car runs without indication of sticking valve for now. May never have been sticking valves, my have just been numerous too loose. Kind of embarrassing but all goes to experience. I think a new set of polylocks, maybe even new rockers, and new pushrods might be what I need.

  22. #182
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    Hard tail with the knucklehead?

  23. #183
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    Yes, 12 over springer with 3/4 rake, hand shift on trany . Dam we had a lot of fun!

  24. #184
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    I had a 48, suicide clutch jockey shift, knucklehead, springer. Funny, we didn't take pictures then.

  25. #185
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    Hard party and ride, suicide clutch was fun after to much party! No cell phone = no pics.Had some pics but they went down river in flood of 97.

  26. #186
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    Ever the learning process. So, pretty much every video on the internet says to adjust flat tappet lifter valve lash you screw the retainer nut in until the pushrod has zero lash, defined as either some resistance to spinning in your fingers to not spinning in your fingers. Most of the videos then advise you to turn a further 1/4 to full turn. almost all universally agree that 1/4 turn is the performance setting. so I been screwing around with this for some time and the valve train noise was excessive. The valve lash was too loose. So I set them where I thought they would be then drove the car and kept adjusting down 1/8 turn until the n rise went away and the engine idle characteristics smoothed out. Car sounds really good now and seems to run okay. Will need to retune it.


  27. #187
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    Engine headaches have dominated everything about my build for the last two months. Yesterday, just to take a break, I went back to work on something I have truly enjoyed working on for some time now. I have been fabricating my own carbon fiber panels either from scratch or by skinning other parts. The target has been the inner door panel and kick panel. I bought a pair of the excellent kick panels from Tim and finally got around to looking at installing them. I skinned them with Carbon Fiber to match panels I created to cover the mess I made of the original FFR panels trying to fit the doors and get the latches to work. I still have some work to do but I like the way it is going. When I get the fitment exact I will build more panels. We are in a prototyping stage right now.

    IMG_1255.jpgIMG_1256.jpgIMG_1260.jpg

    As you can see there is a gap at the bottom along the door sill. I am leaning towards fiberglassing or carbon fiber construction of an additional sill piece that will fit in the blue tape areas.

    IMG_1261.jpgIMG_1262.jpgIMG_1263.jpg

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by wrp; 06-09-2017 at 09:41 AM.

  28. #188
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    wrp,

    Do those inside door handle extensions you made reduce the effort of opening the doors? My doors fit perfectly, but sitting in the seat, it's still a bit awkward to push down on the little chrome buttons. My wife just doesn't have the strength to open hers! Looking for a solution similar to yours.

    Eric
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  29. #189
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    I find the biggest problem with the latches is that they tend to bind with any pressure except directly backwards. These hands actually lever downwards and make them extremely easy to use. They never stick and they never bind. I am trying to figure out a better setup. I can see that the cable pulls which pull straight back against the lever would also work well. I could not get the little screw in bars that you pull on to work at all.

  30. #190
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  31. #191
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    Took her to an old school maestro to help me shortcut all the things I didn't know. He is going through the engine setup and tweaking it.

    IMG_1323.JPGIMG_1324.JPGIMG_1325.JPGIMG_1326.JPG

  32. #192
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    Looking Good, WRP !

  33. #193
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    Thanks, it is amazing how you have to develop a keen sense of attention to detail to ensure everything is working together.

  34. #194
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    So, I have been working for some time to try to get this motor combination right. Each time I think I have gotten to the core issue I find another layer of the onion that needs to be peeled. The car has always run rich and in my opinion the last engine was screwed because of it. Rebuilt the long block and dealt with issues concerning the heads. Got the head issues resolved and Although everything seemed to work better, after a couple of hours running it would go back to missing and running rich. As I am learning I found that there was a problem with the Blue Holley Electric Fuel Pump I had on the car when I bought it. The Holley Blue goes up to 14psi and comes with a regulator. A major problem with these units is pressure creep where you can start out at 4 1/2 to 5 psi and creep up. My regulator was mounted right in the exhaust header heat, and my fuel line was running very near the mufflers. I took the whole fuel system out of the car and replaced the Holley Blue with a Holley Red Pump, eliminated a very old school Fram HPG1 pre filter. Re insulated all of the fuel line and rerouted it down the middle of the car much farther from the encroaching exhaust. I still need to clean up the electrical connections but hope to have it started in the next couple of days.

    IMG_1336.jpgIMG_1337.jpgIMG_1347.jpgIMG_1348.jpgIMG_1350.jpgIMG_1352.jpgIMG_1353.jpg

  35. #195
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    WRP, sounds like you are getting a handle on the problems, good detective work.

    I had to laugh at the first picture on post #191, what I saw was a little swivel seat mounted to the carb, I guess I have a pretty good imagination.
    Ha, Ha!

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  36. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by H R Lucky View Post
    WRP, sounds like you are getting a handle on the problems, good detective work.

    I had to laugh at the first picture on post #191, what I saw was a little swivel seat mounted to the carb, I guess I have a pretty good imagination.
    Ha, Ha!

    Nevin
    Well I had never expected a "crate Engine" to be so short on matched up systems. Been 50 years since I have been this intimate with one. Fact is, not a lot of people around anymore that can simply troubleshoot and fix an issue on one of these. I am fortunate enough to know a couple. LoL sort of an aerodynamic wing
    Last edited by wrp; 06-20-2017 at 10:50 PM.

  37. #197
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    Here is a before and an after on the fuel line rebuild. In the before picture the line was routed down the right side of the vehicle (passenger side). It came up the firewall beside the overflow tank and ran to the regulator, then a line ran across the firewall to the carburetor fuel inlet tube behind the carb where it mounted to a filter. We eliminated the regulator and moved the line to the middle of the car. It runs away from the exhaust as much as is possible and comes up the back of the engine in the middle where it mounts to the fuel inlet. The entire line is insulated. Also removed an excessive canister fuel pre pump. All in all the car runs much better now.


    Before: IMG_0721.jpg

    After: IMG_1347.jpg

  38. #198

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    Quote Originally Posted by h r lucky View Post
    wrp, sounds like you are getting a handle on the problems, good detective work.

    I had to laugh at the first picture on post #191, what i saw was a little swivel seat mounted to the carb, i guess i have a pretty good imagination.
    Ha, ha!

    Nevin
    lol
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  39. #199
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    Difference between the Holley Blue with pre filter and Holley Red Pumps


  40. #200
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    Maaan, what a rumble. That thing makes the earth shake like it was King Kong stomping on ducks on fire. Four thumbs up!

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