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Thread: Steering shaft issues

  1. #1
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    Steering shaft issues

    Folks I for the life of me can not get the upper steering shaft to go through the firewall flange bearing. Has anyone had any problem with this shaft not fitting through the flange. Am i doing something wrong here or do I have incorrect parts?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member 2FAST4U's Avatar
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    Isn't there a set screw in the flange that needs to be loosened?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2FAST4U View Post
    Isn't there a set screw in the flange that needs to be loosened?
    No I checked that.

  4. #4
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Pretty much EVERYONE has this problem. Takes some chamfering and filing to get the shaft to go through. Some have recommended taking the meat off the inside of the bearing so as not to damage the "nickel plating" on the steering shafts, while others have pointed out that although the shafts APPEAR to be plated or stainless, they are, in fact, just bare steel and will rust unless you put some clearcoat on them. I found it much easier to remove a little meat from the shaft itself and clearcoated the crap out of all the steering shafts before final assembly.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  5. #5
    Ol Skool
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    There seems to be inconsistent materials used here. Mine were not plated and I did polish both the interior of the bearing and the shaft. I think I came to the conclusion that the ends were sheared rather than cut. This distorts the material. The ends of the shafts required aggressive filing and chamfering and once the ends were dressed the shaft slides through.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies guys. Mine appears to be plated with something which I assume is nickel or chrome. After an hour of sanding one shaft with 220 grit sandpaper i still can't get it to go into the bearing. I think the coating is just to0 thick and will take too long to sand down. I will probably look for a local shop to cut me 3 new uncoated shafts.

  7. #7
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Mine "appeared" to be plated too. As erlihemi pointed out, most of the distortion is at the ends of the shafts. Chamfer the end with your bench grinder, do a little work to the portion of the shaft that actually has to go through the bearing, and you can probably get the shaft to go through.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kraftee View Post
    Mine "appeared" to be plated too. As erlihemi pointed out, most of the distortion is at the ends of the shafts. Chamfer the end with your bench grinder, do a little work to the portion of the shaft that actually has to go through the bearing, and you can probably get the shaft to go through.
    I tried that as well first actually. I cleaned up the ends really well and then tried to put it through and no dice. This is how I actually saw the plating it had as when I used the grinder I could actually see that it was pretty thick. I went and bought some off the shelf at my local hot rod shop and it fit without issue.

    Finishing the steering shaft install i realized I did not get the shorter set screw mentioned in the manual to install on the joint that goes on the firewall flange bearing. I started to go through my boxes and inventory sheet to make sure it wasn't packed anywhere. I did not find the shorter set screw anywhere, however I ran across coyote steering components not mentioned in the install manual. After a little online research it looks like the steering shaft install when using a coyote engine is different. Looks like I am missing the coyote fitment guide which I have now requested from FFR along with the missing set screw.

    If it isn't one thing it's another…..

  9. #9
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    Go to FFR parts catalog at bottom of page then on upper left top are instructions, all the different instructions are for download. 33 Hot Rod page.

  10. #10
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    My shafts appear to be plated with something harder than mild steel as material removal is much slower than a similar size piece of mild steel. The SS wire wheel I use for deburing metal won't touch the surface but cuts mild steel and chrome moly easily. I also cut a small piece off one section and you can see a color difference between the freshly cut end and the rest of the shaft. My shafts are saw cut from the manufacturer (after plating) and do not appear to be deformed near the cuts but I did chamfer the ends. Using a micrometer I found that the shaft is a slight interference fit on the u-joints and ~.001" on the bearings. Polishing the shaft and using a abrasive flapper wheel to open up the bearings was the method I used to fit the pieces. I went only far enough to keep a tight fit requiring a slight tap with a small plastic hammer and no excessive play. The set screws hold the parts firmly and for the u-joint connections I drilled the shaft so the set screws capture the shaft.

  11. #11
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whernand View Post
    Finishing the steering shaft install i realized I did not get the shorter set screw mentioned in the manual to install on the joint that goes on the firewall flange bearing. I started to go through my boxes and inventory sheet to make sure it wasn't packed anywhere. I did not find the shorter set screw anywhere
    I have run into this same issue with the smaller set screw...nowhere to be found. I also noticed that the manual says to mount the joint against the flange bearing on the firewall. If I do this the end sticks out too much and will bind at the next joint. I have verified I am using the correct length rod and all joints up to this point are flush. Has anyone else encountered this issue? Almost seems like the rod is just slightly too long. Can I cheat each joint a little?

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  12. #12
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Cut the DD shafts as required to fit.

  13. #13

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I have run into this same issue with the smaller set screw...nowhere to be found.
    didn't you do an inventory? I emptied every bag and counted every single piece. I found 3 missing bolts, but out of everything I thought that was pretty impressive! They are of course flying their way to me now..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  14. #14
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Cut the DD shafts as required to fit.
    Thanks Naz...exactly what I did. Seems to work fine. When I come across issues such as these, I first have to come up with a solution, then I have to contemplate the cost of repairing my solution if it goes south! My mindset is that there is nothing that I am doing that can't be fixed...it's just at what cost!

    Thanks
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  15. #15
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    didn't you do an inventory? I emptied every bag and counted every single piece. I found 3 missing bolts, but out of everything I thought that was pretty impressive! They are of course flying their way to me now..
    I was pretty impressed with FFR post inventory as well (note that the short 5/16-18 set screw is not on inventory though, but they tell you to use it in manual). I was shorted a few bolts, my wiring harness, door brackets and I had a damaged radiator hose. They have since gotten me all of that and any back ordered items as well. All in all I have been happy so far...long road ahead though!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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