Just purchased a new, 9 year old kit. never completed and have some issues that need to be repaired? it seems the previous owner wanted to move the motor reward and cut the mounts! need to properly locate for 302 and tko. also has the left down tube cut out, 1" square tube by drivers foot well to main frame rail. they have also cut the dash crossbar? maybe to install the a/c unit? need to know what this should look like. and the tunnel has been cut about where the e brake should fit? how does the e brake assembly mount, as well the steering column mounting area looks kinda country? looks to be an early gm piece, doesn't look quite right! any help would be great thanks, have a manual but not printed yet. just got the car 11/21. planned on the wildwood pedal assm. as it did come with the big brakes. anyone like or dislike this setup?
Were they planning power brakes? That might explain why the 1" square was removed. Usually a small section is removed and then a new piece installed that bows around the booster.
For the dash they may have had the spider dash which would need the cross bar removed. That bar is not structural but does help support the regular dash. I cut mine out partially too as my dash is custom.
The hand break assembly should mount to a steel bracket next to the tunnel on the floor of the passenger foot well.
Pictures would help a lot as mentioned before.
Were they planning power brakes? That might explain why the 1" square was removed. Usually a small section is removed and then a new piece installed that bows around the booster.
For the dash they may have had the spider dash which would need the cross bar removed. That bar is not structural but does help support the regular dash. I cut mine out partially too as my dash is custom.
The hand break assembly should mount to a steel bracket next to the tunnel on the floor of the passenger foot well.
Pictures would help a lot as mentioned before.
John
Here's a few pics, not sure of the "plan" as it has changed hands more than once! Just not sure what's been done didn't need to be redone before moving forward? Best I can tell the biggest concern is the motor mounts being moved back? Sent an email the the folks at factory five today asking for availability of new mount stands? The dash is a mystery image.jpeg I have one that is partial board and another that is bent form alum? [ATTACH]47926
It looks to me like the last builder was planning a custom dash. The steering column that is there is not stock for the coupe, the aluminum dash is the FF pc, the particle board dash may be just the start of a plug for a fiberglass mold of that custom dash.
The wilwood foot box will work good but you may want to continue with the power brake mod it will improve the brake stopping power with less pedal effort and the folks that have done it love it.
Manual Brakes feel hard and unresponsive to the average driver.
The Big cut out in the tunnel is for a tunnel mounted e-brake handle and is also a modification, the stock location would be on the passenger floor tight to the tunnel.
The 1in tube that was cut out of the tunnel was cut out on the passenger side to clear the bell housing on a engine that was being pushed back I would just replace the tube or leave it out.
This car does not need more rear weight it needs more front weight if you move the engine move it forward from stock. about 1.5 will be fine and get you closer to 50/50 FR corner weight's.
Make sure you check over the welds and quality of work around that column. It got cut straight thru an area that will be highly stressed in a driver door impact. I would redo the work in that area for sure.
Last edited by HCP 65 COUPE; 11-24-2015 at 04:08 PM.
It does have a power regulator in the drivers door, not sure if there is a second one for pass side? I do have the two slides. I think this is how I will proceed since it has a/c or at least a good start in that direction. I'll try and get some pics of the window regulator and frame this weekend. Does anyone have a picture of the column mounting area? Not sure what this is supposed to look like.
Do they offer different size master cyl? For this set up. Smaller bores should increase pressure and "feel"? Folks with this pedal kit probably would also have the bigger brakes I would assume ? Doubt it's possible to buy the kit from wilwood and customize the cyl. bore?
Well tried to upload pics but having trouble? What they have done looks wrong any way, the shape of the door won't allow it to roll down? Not sure what they were thinking. Really need to get the manual printed this weekend, I think I have the proper window skirts and frames as long as they didn't cut the door!
You're starting just like I did- with a used kit. Have fun with the grey body and make sure Hank gets your jacket to you- you'll especially need it if you're doing the bodywork. Overall it's not too bad just a lot to do and with the mods the previous owner did there is some rework that must be done. Biggest thing I can think of is the steering column. Put the seat and steering wheel in to make sure there will be enough room. Are you planning on finishing out the power windows? If so one thing that would be a great help is to track all parts you used and take lots of pictures. I wanted to do PWs in mine but I'm at the 3.5 year mark and over 5 since I sold my roadster and I'm ready to get back driving.
The Wilwood kit doesn't come with a MC so you can specify what bore size you want. That's the same kit I have but haven't had a chance to get in much driving to see how they'll do.
Best of luck and welcome to the madness.
.......and post lots of pics.
You're starting just like I did- with a used kit. Have fun with the grey body and make sure Hank gets your jacket to you- you'll especially need it if you're doing the bodywork. Overall it's not too bad just a lot to do and with the mods the previous owner did there is some rework that must be done. Biggest thing I can think of is the steering column. Put the seat and steering wheel in to make sure there will be enough room. Are you planning on finishing out the power windows? If so one thing that would be a great help is to track all parts you used and take lots of pictures. I wanted to do PWs in mine but I'm at the 3.5 year mark and over 5 since I sold my roadster and I'm ready to get back driving.
The Wilwood kit doesn't come with a MC so you can specify what bore size you want. That's the same kit I have but haven't had a chance to get in much driving to see how they'll do.
Best of luck and welcome to the madness.
.......and post lots of pics.
Thanks for the advice! Who is Hank and what Jacket is it you speak of? I've found a correct column from a fox body and trying to get it shipped, you wouldn't be able to send a couple of pics of where it mounts so I can see what they have done and how I should go about correcting it? Thanks I've got the motor mount pieces figured out and factory five is supposed to have those going next week! As far as the power windows I don't think I will continue doing those. I prefer the look of the slides and it has air in it so..... That's my thoughts
Hope I'm not stepping on any toes so here's when I was given my jacket
Originally Posted by Hankl
Tim,
Raise your right hand and say after me,
"I (State your name), do swear/affirm, that upon acceptance of this "Revered Coupe Jacket", will willingly subject myself to all manner of frustration and abrasion that my FFR Type 65 will provide. I further pledge that any and all fellow Coupe builders will have free reign in using the cash available in my wallet as they see fit to improve my build plan. I will not look down upon our fellow Roadster builders, but rather take pity on those not talented enough to build a race car with a roof, So Help Me God!"
It is my pleasure to present you with the "Revered Coupe Jacket", Here's your sign!!
Hank
For the column the Fox stuff isn't used. Did you get a manual with the kit? Not that it's that important but there are a few important items in there. Pics of column area should be up soon.
The bent up aluminum piece in the first pic is just a cover I fabbed to keep the wiring away from the steering column.
Hope these help.
Last edited by TimC; 11-28-2015 at 05:11 PM.
Reason: added pics
Don't bother printing it. I've got the paper copy that I hardly ever get out and on PDF as well. Document being searchable is priceless. If you don't have a laptop pick up a cheap tablet at Microcenter. I've got one I only paid $59. It's used at work, in the garage and carry it to download pics from trail cams I have around the property. Gotta keep a watch on my deer and coyotes.
That does help! So the steering column is just a bare shaft? So turn signals and so forth are on the dash I presume. The piece of 2" square tube runs from left to right with only the bracket as in pic #2.
That's basically it. Russ Thompson makes a nice original style turn signal switch but with the amount of stuff missing from your car I'd look at some Flaming river or other Street Rod steering systems. Do you have a welder? You will definitely need to melt some metal as what's there is no where near adequate.
Are you doing the bodywork too?
Yes I'll be doing all of the work, welding body paint and mech/elec. the hard part for me is figuring out what it's supposed to look like. I know the guys at ffc have spent a great deal of time making a proper car and there is just no reason for me to hack it up? Not sure what or why happened before me but I'd prefer to make it just like it was born!
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Originally Posted by John Dol
