Zen and the Art of Building a Cobra Replica

[120mm]

I've successfully convinced my lovely bride that I "need" to build a Cobra Replica. Unfortunately, I am currently working overseas and the earliest I can justify ordering a kit is about a year from now. I have excellent mechanical skills, a great workshop (in the US) and experience building cars and know the foibles of the Windsor-block SBF, having owned, built, repaired and maintained several over my life.

After reading many threads here and on the other forum, I've decided that before I can even order a kit, I need to settle several central philosophical and existential questions.

Having said that, a few things are settled, as I know myself quite well by now. I want a car that will challenge me, and will be capable of high performance and will look and sound like it. I also want a car where function trumps form. I doubt I will spend over $100 on paint (I own my own painting rig and can access leftovers from a local shop) and I will insulate the interior to cut down on the heat and to kill the tinny sound of the aluminum, but run the minimum interior I can get away with. It will not be built as a daily driver, but I WILL drive it daily, because I'm ornery that way. I will also most probably get 15 inch wheels and run Hoosiers or Goodyear billboards, just because I think they are an important visual aspect of the car

Having said all that, I have several questions for your comment and my own introspection:

How much power is "enough?"

I get the distinct impression that anything more than 400 bhp goes wasted in these cars. In fact, they may be quite high performing with 300 or so. Does anyone have experience with both the 400+ horsepower versions as well as the 260 to 350 horsepower versions, and would care to comment on it?

Modular versus Windsor

A bunch of Coyote and 4.6 modulars have come on the salvage Markets; Coyotes for about $8k and 4.6s with under 100k miles for $2k or so. I'll admit it; I'm a carbed Windsor guy from the 70s, but 260-305 hp from a $2k 4.6 sounds tempting. As does 420 hp from a 5.0 Coyote. Still, I see all these threads about issues with this or that black box and I get really skittery. I'm also wondering how one maintains them in that tiny space up front.

4 link, 3 link, IRS

When I decided to build a Cobra replica, I just assumed I'd build IRS, because a high powered vehicle with a live axle would just murder you in a turn under power on a rough surface. Now, I'm not so sure. I keep reading about the Challenge Series Cars and wondering just how bad a 3 link with a live axle would be in an aggressively driven, powerful car like a 300 hp Cobra replica.

Donor, Complete Kit, or a la Carte

I am leaning toward getting pieces a la Carte from salvage and other suppliers. Still, there are several donor cars in my area (in the US) that have less than 100k miles, and are cosmetically horrific. I wouldn't be afraid of buying one and parting it out, provided the price was right.

Things I haven't thought of, yet.

I would be delighted if all and sundry would come up with ideas that I haven't even thought of, yet. Because synergy, and stuff.

Thanks!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'll just touch on a few high spots to start:

1. Budget will be a big deciding factor in your choice of powerplant. 300-350 HP makes for one heck of a power to weight ratio. Sounds like you have the experience to self-build a Windsor for <$4K that will easily hit that 350 mark.

2. Factory Five's own words "IRS is the comfort suspension, 3 link is the high performance suspension".

3. I do the body and paint on these cars professionally and can assure you that you won't do it for 100 bucks unless the "leftovers" include not only paint but also a gallon of filler, 3 gallons of high build primer, a gallon of sealer, cleaners and a few rolls of various papers.

I'm sure others will add many more opinions for you.

Jeff

[120mm]

Thanks for the info! I look forward to hearing from others as well!

Nice to get validation about the 300 - 350 hp thing.

Drew

[MCathcart]

Do folks think they'll get different answers here?

I'm way down the list on paint but... There's a thread here where FFR knocked the seams down and sprayed some rattle can paint on the seam areas. You can do that for less than your guesstimated 100 bucks. By the pictures it looked OK.

HP Bang for the buck (in my opinion) would be a 302 with a carb and a 3.73 rear gear. A 4.6 build is going to be more costly and complicated (I have built both). Even at 250 Hp, a FFR Roadster is Fast.

[JKolbfleisch]

. A 4.6 build is going to be more costly and complicated (I have built both).

Not to mention the 4.6 will look 'messier' and more out of place in the Cobra. (I still have a soft-spot for 4.6 Modulars from my Mustang builds!)

[120mm]

Do folks think they'll get different answers here?

I'm way down the list on paint but... There's a thread here where FFR knocked the seams down and sprayed some rattle can paint on the seam areas. You can do that for less than your guesstimated 100 bucks. By the pictures it looked OK.

HP Bang for the buck (in my opinion) would be a 302 with a carb and a 3.73 rear gear. A 4.6 build is going to be more costly and complicated (I have built both). Even at 250 Hp, a FFR Roadster is Fast.

I don't know; do you think information is best sought from a single source? Gathering data is what I do for a living, and I like redundancy.

Like I mentioned in my initial post, I own my own paint rig, and have access to free/cheap paint overruns; no rattle can necessary, and part of my build philosophy is to have the paint reflect the car: Brutish. Either matte or satin polyurethane with all chrome blacked out.

Based on input from the FFR forum and a weekend of research, I've decided to go 351W, top loader and 3.25ish 3 link rear. My reasoning is that the 351W platform is much more expandable than the 302 and still affordable.

Not to mention the 4.6 will look 'messier' and more out of place in the Cobra. (I still have a soft-spot for 4.6 Modulars from my Mustang builds!)

Add to that is the "teach an old dog new tricks" thing. I have a bunch of SBF stuff laying around the shop and there is no real reason to jump to something different.

[skullandbones]

There's never enough data. Just managing it and sifting through it is the key.

I thought I would add my experience. I could have economized by going straight to the 351W but I have gained a wealth of knowledge by going with a 302 for my first iteration of the roadster. The cool thing is it gives you a platform for experimentation so you can find your "sweet spot" with regard to hp and performance. I think your biggest challenge isn't finding the best hp level but taming the short wheelbase/high hp combination which most people have not experienced before their first build. A person in a racing environment would be the exception but if you haven't driven one of these, it is an eye opening experience. Personally, I think 350 to 400 hp is enough to make this way more than exciting depending on your risk comfort level.

I like the 351W for it's truck like strength on the bottom end. You don't have to go exotic or full race components to get a reliable short block. Even staying with a stock displacement is a big power boost. So you've made a very good decision there.

You might still consider a 3.55 as that would launch you much better but I see your point for the 3.27 as mine is a great gear for cruising just a little tall for slower cruising. I have to drive in fourth quite often and I need to gear down some in the mountains. I'm pretty sure a 3.55 is the best all around gear. It has been documented for many years in the manuals and on the forum.

For a rear suspension, I like the idea of the three link but don't particularly like the FFR one (design). Have a look at the five link options out there. You must have seen a lot of them if you built stangs. I have a custom three link with a Watt's link and it is great! Gordon Levy has one that is beautiful as well as functional. I did my own with some serious help from Mike N on the forum and others who had cool ideas about suspension in general. Looking forward to see your build.

Good luck,

WEK.

[Avalanche325]

My thoughts....

If you want high performance and "function trumps form", you will want to reconsider the 15" wheels. You can't get good high performance street legal tires for 15". You also cannot get big brakes.

Even with free BC/CC, you have a lot of materials to get it there. I spent over $100 in cleaners, over $200 in sand paper, and I am sure way over $100 in masking tape.

Engine opinion. Windsor is tried and true, inexpensive, there is room for it, and you can get to 500HP. 4.6L I feel is getting to be an orphan, more expensive. Coyote - great engine, nice power, very very tight fit. I pulled my 347 out in two hours. With a Coyote, the only thing you will pull out in two hours is your hair.

When I decided to build a Cobra replica, I just assumed I'd build IRS, because a high powered vehicle with a live axle would just murder you in a turn under power on a rough surface. Now, I'm not so sure. I keep reading about the Challenge Series Cars and wondering just how bad a 3 link with a live axle would be in an aggressively driven, powerful car like a 300 hp Cobra replica.

That is what most people would assume. But, it happens to be incorrect on these cars. See Jeff's #2 above for suspension. There is a new version of the IRS out. I am sure if you are ordering year from now, there will be a lot of info to see how it compares.

Unless you get some great deal on a low mileage donor, and you are not straying too far from a stock build, I would consider a complete kit.

[Johnnymike]

Dear Ornery

I may be ornery also.
If you are truly ornery get a 427 big block built by an experienced builder. Visit his shop and if he dosent have any bits and pieces from a 427 laying around go some where else. You will never need the power but it sure makes you feel good.
Goodyear billboards are a unique look and if you like it, like I do, nothing else looks as good. The ride is not that good but I don't care because I'm ornery.
A solid rear axle does not look as hunkered down but I really goes good in a straight line.
No interior no problem and no chrome.
Have fun. You will.
JMS

[120mm]

First of all, these are all well reasoned responses. I've learned a lot from them and really appreciate them. The best part about them, is everyone forced me to step outside my frame of reference and re-examine my logic.

I thought I would add my experience. I could have economized by going straight to the 351W but I have gained a wealth of knowledge by going with a 302 for my first iteration of the roadster. The cool thing is it gives you a platform for experimentation so you can find your "sweet spot" with regard to hp and performance. I think your biggest challenge isn't finding the best hp level but taming the short wheelbase/high hp combination which most people have not experienced before their first build. A person in a racing environment would be the exception but if you haven't driven one of these, it is an eye opening experience. Personally, I think 350 to 400 hp is enough to make this way more than exciting depending on your risk comfort level.

Good points. Out of the corner of my eye, I have a friend's 5.0L roller motor with GT40P heads and cam I could probably put in it for not too much money. It would get the car done as cheaply as anything and get me driving it and discovering what I really want.

I like the 351W for it's truck like strength on the bottom end. You don't have to go exotic or full race components to get a reliable short block. Even staying with a stock displacement is a big power boost. So you've made a very good decision there.

You might still consider a 3.55 as that would launch you much better but I see your point for the 3.27 as mine is a great gear for cruising just a little tall for slower cruising. I have to drive in fourth quite often and I need to gear down some in the mountains. I'm pretty sure a 3.55 is the best all around gear. It has been documented for many years in the manuals and on the forum.

For a T5, right? I'd assume a Toploader needs a lower ratio. But if I go with the roller motor I could score an inexpensive T5 and be money ahead.

For a rear suspension, I like the idea of the three link but don't particularly like the FFR one (design). Have a look at the five link options out there. You must have seen a lot of them if you built stangs. I have a custom three link with a Watt's link and it is great! Gordon Levy has one that is beautiful as well as functional. I did my own with some serious help from Mike N on the forum and others who had cool ideas about suspension in general. Looking forward to see your build.

Good luck,

WEK.

See, this post made me think about just building it with the 4 link for the same reasons I'd go with a GT40 head 5.0. I could always sub in a 5 link later on. Right?

My thoughts....

If you want high performance and "function trumps form", you will want to reconsider the 15" wheels. You can't get good high performance street legal tires for 15". You also cannot get big brakes.

Even with free BC/CC, you have a lot of materials to get it there. I spent over $100 in cleaners, over $200 in sand paper, and I am sure way over $100 in masking tape.

As much as I like the "function trumps form" statement, I think I like "function defines form" better. And every time I look at a 17 or 18" wheel Cobra, I start thinking that maybe I'd like an 818 better. To me, without the 15" wheels, it's just not a Cobra.

BTW, the Cobra has a TINY body, and most folks I see are painting them bare of any trim, windshields, etc. What in tarnation are people spending over $100 to mask off? The polyurethane I use isn't a base/top coat system, so you basically just put 3-4 coats on. Looks just like the original race car finish. In fact, am starting to think about just using plasti-dip, instead.

I've heard very compelling arguments that big brakes do not improve these cars. I'm tending toward agreeing with them.

Dear Ornery

I may be ornery also.
If you are truly ornery get a 427 big block built by an experienced builder. Visit his shop and if he dosent have any bits and pieces from a 427 laying around go some where else. You will never need the power but it sure makes you feel good.

I am currently cussing you under my breath right now. I'm trying to forget that I have a 390 FE in a shed on my mom's farm. Or that I know a guy who does 460 block builds for truck pulling who is interested in helping me build one of them for a project.

Goodyear billboards are a unique look and if you like it, like I do, nothing else looks as good. The ride is not that good but I don't care because I'm ornery.
A solid rear axle does not look as hunkered down but I really goes good in a straight line.
No interior no problem and no chrome.
Have fun. You will.
JMS

I sat in a real deal Cobra once, at the Spencer Fair in 1976. It had Hoosiers on and since that time I've fantasized about putting a set of billboard Hoosiers on my own Cobra.

I like the cut of your jib. Do you have any photos of your Cobra?

[Johnnymike]

20247843-700-0[1].jpgIMG-20140614-00103.jpgphoto 5.JPG

jms

[Johnnymike]

Ornery
This post goes with the one above. I am not technologically literate and sent the pictures before I was done.

There is lots of ways to build a Cobra and lots of advice, much of it good, but in the end do what you really want, it will work
and you wont second guess yourself.
There is no way I needed a 427 and I have never pushed it even once, frankly because I am a little scared of it, but knowing I have
4 LB/HP just makes me smile inside. This block is a 427FE out of a 66'. The engine was built by a pro. I wanted this because, in my mind, it gives me a link to the original.
And the billboards were absolutely a necessity for me, everything else was secondary.

If you want to look at different build styles go to the Hemmings classic cars for sale web site and look up Shelby Cobra. I did this to fine tune the look I wanted.
JMS

[120mm]

Ornery
This post goes with the one above. I am not technologically literate and sent the pictures before I was done.

There is lots of ways to build a Cobra and lots of advice, much of it good, but in the end do what you really want, it will work
and you wont second guess yourself.
There is no way I needed a 427 and I have never pushed it even once, frankly because I am a little scared of it, but knowing I have
4 LB/HP just makes me smile inside. This block is a 427FE out of a 66'. The engine was built by a pro. I wanted this because, in my mind, it gives me a link to the original.
And the billboards were absolutely a necessity for me, everything else was secondary.

If you want to look at different build styles go to the Hemmings classic cars for sale web site and look up Shelby Cobra. I did this to fine tune the look I wanted.
JMS

Words well said. Thank you!

[chopthebass]

Hey 120mm,

Just wondering why "120mm". It's obviously the length of something! Just curious ha ha.

[Avalanche325]

This post made me think about just building it with the 4 link for the same reasons I'd go with a GT40 head 5.0. I could always sub in a 5 link later on. Right?

You can, but it will be a lot easier during the build. Why build with a known problem suspension?

To me, without the 15" wheels, it's just not a Cobra.

15s do look great. Just be aware of what they tie you into.

What in tarnation are people spending over $100 to mask off?

Stripes, edges, openings, undersides of hood and trunk, etc. Automotive grade tape is not cheap. Leave everything open and you will have overspray everywhere. You can also blow dust from under the body and the buck back onto the paint. Taping stripes takes a lot of tape if you want crisp edges and no bleed-trough.

In fact, am starting to think about just using plasti-dip, instead.

I don't even know what to say to that one. Are you serious? You may be a candidate for the "$50 Rustolium paint job". Google it.

I've heard very compelling arguments that big brakes do not improve these cars. I'm tending toward agreeing with them.

They obviously haven't driven one with stock brakes and then one with Wilwoods, or taken a physics class. I drove a MKI with donor brakes and it was terrifying, not in a fun way. The Wilwoods will nearly detach your retinas.

The bottom line is build what you want. You are doing the best thing that you can at this point by researching and asking questions. It is all part of the fun.

[Wjhutchings]

If you're thinking about a 5 link, then I suggest you look at Gordon Levy's. Just FYI - it has to be welded in place, so changing from 4 links to 5 later on could be problematic.

[Todd Buttrick]

Good lord. You are all over the spectrum on cost, performance, skills, drivability, wheel size, engine size,... WTF? You need TIME!! Take a breath.

You say you know the "foibles of the Windsor-block SBF" but you don't even seem to know the difference between a 302 SBF and a Windsor SBF which is a 351W but you claim to have built several over your life? You don't want to spend over $100 in paint but you are still entertaining +$8,000 dollar engines which makes no sense and then you say you have a line on a 5.0 AND a 390FEI you have. If you've built so many SBFs, then you know darn well the power/weight ratio of these cars. Anyone that says that a certain HP in these cars is a waste has NO IDEA WTF they are talking about (unless you're racing) and you should know IF you've had experience with SBFs. You're a carb'd guy but asking about Coyote and 4.6 mods and you think about 15" wheels are best and now my head is F**king spinning with how to begin to even help you as are so many others but reluctant to say so.

Take a DEEEEEEEP breath. Take a step back and REALLY understand what you want from your car. THEN, do some research. Take more time doing research on all the information on these cars with the NUMEROUS resources you have and GO VISIT and ride these cars before you start an endless discussion on opinions. There are at LEAST two sites from thousands of builders to nail down your OWN preference. You are WAY over thinking your build. When it comes to picking color, we will all shoot ourselves in the F**King head when it comes to that point.

[120mm]

I don't even know what to say to that one. Are you serious? You may be a candidate for the "$50 Rustolium paint job". Google it.

Yes. I'm serious. I've shot both cheap and expensive paint. I really like the crude look of the original paint jobs, especially on race cars. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

They obviously haven't driven one with stock brakes and then one with Wilwoods, or taken a physics class. I drove a MKI with donor brakes and it was terrifying, not in a fun way. The Wilwoods will nearly detach your retinas.

The bottom line is build what you want. You are doing the best thing that you can at this point by researching and asking questions. It is all part of the fun.

Yep. I was just repackaging what I've heard from other owners, and trying to get feedback on it.

Good lord. You are all over the spectrum on cost, performance, skills, drivability, wheel size, engine size,... WTF? You need TIME!! Take a breath.

You say you know the "foibles of the Windsor-block SBF" but you don't even seem to know the difference between a 302 SBF and a Windsor SBF which is a 351W but you claim to have built several over your life?

I'm sorry, but the 302 is now also referred to as a "Windsor". Much more experienced people than me, to include reference material and historical data refers to the 302 as a "Windsor". You are pole vaulting over a mouseturd, here.

You don't want to spend over $100 in paint but you are still entertaining +$8,000 dollar engines which makes no sense and then you say you have a line on a 5.0 AND a 390FEI you have.

Am I? As far as paint is concerned, I said I probably won't spend over $100 in paint. Which is an objective fact. The type of finish I'm after doesn't require expensive paint. If you actually read and understood the thread, you can detect my logic, and that I've considered and discarded +$8,000 engines. And yes, I have a 5.0, a 390, a 360, a 352, a couple of 289s and even more engines than that I can dink with, if I want to spend the time and money. What of it?

If you've built so many SBFs, then you know darn well the power/weight ratio of these cars. Anyone that says that a certain HP in these cars is a waste has NO IDEA WTF they are talking about (unless you're racing) and you should know IF you've had experience with SBFs. You're a carb'd guy but asking about Coyote and 4.6 mods and you think about 15" wheels are best and now my head is F**king spinning with how to begin to even help you as are so many others but reluctant to say so.

I cannot help your head. I think this thread has developed along a logical line of thought, which is what it was for. If the forum mods don't want it, they can lock it and even delete it. I do not get why you are so angry, or why you feel the need to insultingly insinuate I am lying about my background. Feel free to not contribute, if that is the way you feel. Please.

Take a DEEEEEEEP breath. Take a step back and REALLY understand what you want from your car. THEN, do some research. Take more time doing research on all the information on these cars with the NUMEROUS resources you have and GO VISIT and ride these cars before you start an endless discussion on opinions. There are at LEAST two sites from thousands of builders to nail down your OWN preference. You are WAY over thinking your build. When it comes to picking color, we will all shoot ourselves in the F**King head when it comes to that point.

Again, I am gathering data which is not reflected in the literature.

You'll note that I joined this forum in 2013. I read almost everything I can find on the Cobra, and have done so since o/a 1976. The problem with books and online resources, is that they lack the context one gets from this kind of interactive thread. My problem right now is that I'm at least a year out from the build and I'm living in Germany, where these cars are scarce/nonexistent.

[120mm]

Hey 120mm,

Just wondering why "120mm". It's obviously the length of something! Just curious ha ha.

My first job as an adult was Armor Platoon Leader, and the new development in Main Battle Tank at the time was the M1A1, which had a 120mm main gun. I've commanded M48s, M60s and M3 Bradleys, but never got to command the vaunted M1A1.

[FormulaGod]

My first job as an adult was Armor Platoon Leader, and the new development in Main Battle Tank at the time was the M1A1, which had a 120mm main gun. I've commanded M48s, M60s and M3 Bradleys, but never got to command the vaunted M1A1.

Badass man. Thanks for your service.
Do what you want with your car, its YOUR car. I think its great that you have the resources/experience/knowledge to make this car what YOU want and HOW you want it. Like you said, you're gonna drive the snot out of it. Seems like you are looking for more opinion than fact on some of your questions. By the info you presented, you probably know more about the cars than 90% of the membership.

[chopthebass]

My first job as an adult was Armor Platoon Leader, and the new development in Main Battle Tank at the time was the M1A1, which had a 120mm main gun. I've commanded M48s, M60s and M3 Bradleys, but never got to command the vaunted M1A1.

That's great!
Good luck with the build. I don't believe you can 'over-think'. It's a heck of an expense and you want to get it right.

[Jeff Kleiner]

My first job as an adult was Armor Platoon Leader, and the new development in Main Battle Tank at the time was the M1A1, which had a 120mm main gun. I've commanded M48s, M60s and M3 Bradleys, but never got to command the vaunted M1A1.

Coincidentally I spent the better part of a couple of decades doing engineering test and R&D work at General Motors with the majority of my efforts focused on the X1100 transmission which provides the propulsion, steering and braking for the M1 and its successors. Most of the testing was/is done in test cells with either the actual turbine engine for power or 16V149 Detroit Diesels (that's 2,384 cubic inches if you're counting) with a stepup gearbox however on occasion I did drive them at the proving grounds; pretty awesome vehicles. No live guns during testing though

Jeff

[skullandbones]

One thing that will really help funnel decision making into a shorter list regarding engine choice, trans, diff, suspension, etc is making a decision about what the car will be used for (seriously not what it might be used for). I think most people do know that even if it is somewhat subconscious. Another variation of that is creating a theme for the car. Mine was "will look like a racer". Now does that mean I have to track the car exclusively? No! It just meant that I have a vision for what the car will look like and most likely build it with components that reflect the theme. If you want a "gentlemen's sports car" then you don't put dual roll bars on it. If you want to a vintage like version, it has to be the SBF or BBF. If you want a modern tech monster, it's probably a blown Coyote with a 2015 Mustang IRS. Once you come to that decision (you have at least a year), it will become so much clearer. It's fun thinking out all the possible scenarios.

I wanted to comment on the paint decision. BTW: I wish I was in your shoes with the surplus paint available at my beckon call. I would be in color heaven. The decision to build a show car will be about the only one that will tie you into a 10k paint job. I don't think you are going there. That brings up a short story. We were at the Good Guys Car Show a week ago and I saw something that may fit your mindset for the paint philosophy. I saw a roadster that looked a little different than most replicas I've seen. It was in the award staging area as it was third in the AX. My friend said it was a replica but I did not think so. It had some front damage and those crinkles didn't look like fiberglass damage. It turned out to be a real one CSX3***. It also had about 800 hp. What impressed me was the function over form and the technical single purpose you could see in the way it was built (dry sump which took up the entire trunk area and a warning light that was a large tail light on top of the dash to warn the driver of low oil pressure). My point is the car really had a theme and the paint reflected it's purpose. No show car finish there. I think I have a couple of pics.

Good luck making your decisions regarding the build. Get back to the states so you can see some up close and personal.

WEK.

[Garry Bopp]

120mm,

I'd like to add some perspective on 4 link, 3 link, IRS. I had the standard 4 link on a Mk3 and did not like it. Very jittery and just did not feel tied down ... what do you expect when you use the shocks and coil springs from a car that weighs over a thousand pounds more? I ended up doing the coilover suspension upgrade to the 4 link and it felt so much better on the road. My Daytona coupe had the IRS and it definitely rode much better and handled well for me on the road and the race track. Regarding track time, I'm not a racer just someone that likes to go fast legally and learn more about performance driving. The folks that had trouble with the IRS on track were hard core racers. From what I've read, the new 2015 Mustang based IRS is a big improvement over the previous setup and has been track tested. I have the 3 link on my challenge car and it works just fine on the road and on the track. The ride is a little firmer than IRS but quite liveable.

I've had 4.6 mod motors, stroked Windsor (422") and stroked 302 (331"). The mod motor was a sweetheart, just looked ugly when you opened the hood. The 422" Windsor was in my Daytona coupe ... loved that motor, had 18,000 miles on it when I sold the car. The 331" is in my challenge car with Trick Flow heads and intake and Comp Cam. Pretty strong motor, probably 300 hp at the wheels. Not as quick as my Daytona but still a blast. Do whatever engine you feel comfortable with and massage it to your taste. That being said, my next build will have the Coyote motor! All these powertrains have pros and cons ... just do what makes you happy!

Garry

[BEAR-AvHistory]

My first job as an adult was Armor Platoon Leader, and the new development in Main Battle Tank at the time was the M1A1, which had a 120mm main gun. I've commanded M48s, M60s and M3 Bradleys, but never got to command the vaunted M1A1.

Good way to get a screen name. Maybe I will change mine to Ma Duce or .50cal. The heaviest weapon on the M88A1. "you call, we haul all, y'all"

[ehansen007]

Use that 302 roller, carb'd or EFI, T-5, 3-link (4 link is not good and IRS is more complex) with 3.55 rear end for your first build. Built two them in the hot rod and the cobra now. It's the base formula for these cars. If you want to increase the difficulty and decrease the reliability, then just start adding stuff and changing the formula. Simple. This can be done during or after the build is complete. The happiest guys I've seen are the ones that drive their cars the most and have stuck to the the FFR base config and added things over time. Just my .02

[Todd Buttrick]

^^^^ Great advice right there. That's pretty much what I did but before 3link was offered. I installed the 3link when it was later released. Only thing I regret is not putting in a 351W form a reputable builder from the get-go.