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Thread: MKIII #5369 "Refresh" Thread - A bat spit shine!

  1. #81
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I got a request to see what the pipes look like after polishing with Compound-302. Here ya go:



    A little bit of gunk left. wash this out with water...







    remember, these pipes are 8 years old with 12,000 miles on them. They look mighty good to me!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  2. #82
    Senior Member rmiller64's Avatar
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    Compound 302 is amazing stuff and glad I found it. Applied with 000 steel wool and Nitrile gloves for protection. Pipes look great for the age David
    Rick
    #8442 MK4 Complete kit, 331 Stroker, T5, 3.73 Posi 3-Link, 15", Goodyear Billboards
    Order 8/22/14 Del 11/7/14 First Start 3/9/15 Go Cart 3/14/15 Paint 2/25/16
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  3. #83
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Thanks Rick. I think I left the compound on too long in some spots and the finish is dulled so I'll take some Nuvite polishing compound to them and see if I can't restore some of the luster...

    Last night I decided to make an air cleaner shroud. When the Mass-Flo originally came out there some reports of stumbling that were diagnosed as turbulent air running by the Mass-Air meter because of the air intake being located right behind the scoop opening. The "fix" involves blocking the air at the front of the air filter. Rather than just cutting a piece of metal and sticking it in there I decided to fancy it up a bit. I cut a piece of .040 aluminum to 2-3/8" x 11-1/2" out on the bandsaw and the filed the sides so it was nice and even...:





    Then did the ol' polishing thing. This time I took an interesting selfie to show off the reflection:



    ... and then masked off the outer .4":



    I got really lucky with the size of this piece in that it allowed me to match the pattern on the long edges. I then engine turned the outer edges. Because there is so much "edge work" on this piece I made sure to trim the hot glue with a razor so it wouldn't stick up above the piece and mess up the scotch brite. You can see it in this pic if you look closely at the edges of the piece where it has been glued to the table:





    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  4. #84
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    continued...

    Then I started putting some "english" on the piece to round it into shape to fit the front of the air cleaner. I was able to introduce some bending by hand, but not as much as I wanted:



    As I was looking around for something to help with that I noticed the 4" exhaust pipe... perfect! I didn't want to bend the piece completely to match the air cleaner; I figure a little tension will help hold it in place. After the piece had a good amount of curvature I covered both sides in sharkhide:







    With a decent amount to bend now in the piece I decided to get a pic of it mocked up in place before calling it a night. It looks pretty good I think!





    I'd like to find a good raised stick-on ford logo for the center, but no hurry though...

    Next I'll be creating an access panel for the upper driver's footbox. Then I'll be ready to re-mount the body.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  5. #85
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I hope everyone had a great Memorial Weekend!

    I spent the weekend figuring out what to do about the driver's footbox access panel, and then creating it.

    I decided to keep a 1" lip on 3 sides and a 2" lip on the back side of the original cover. I cut the hole out with a dremel, with the panel off the car in a vice. Then I cleaned it up with flat files. Cleco'd it back in place and it looked like this:



    This shot shows it later, after I had riveted it in place permanently.:



    I then made a template and cut a new cover, that almost covers the entire existing panel. I pondered several different attachment options but in the end decided on a semi-permanent solution: drill and rivet holes accessible with the body on. If I need to take it off in the future all I have to do is drill the rivets out. A thin coat of silicone will hold the rear of the cover in place.

    I polished the new piece and then covered it with tape while I positioned it on the top of the footbox, then I located and marked the holes to be drilled:







    I'll add a few rivets on the upper ledge after the body is on. I bent the piece just a hair over so that the rear portion will be held down tightly after the whole thing is riveted up. Again, this is semi-permanent: How many times have I had to remove it up till now? Never. but if I ever need to get in there, 2 minutes with a 1/8" drill bit gets me access, instead of taking the whole body off.

    I didn't want to mar the newly-sharkhided piece so I just laid it up there with a piece of painter's tape to get this shot:



    You may be wondering how I got such a nice bend in that piece since a don't have a brake. Well, my neighbor does! And I had some good fortune this weekend in that the neighbor, who is going out of the country for 9 months, decided to lend me the brake! I now have it in my shop. This sucker is HEAVY!



    It's also has a shear and rollers! So I'll be figuring out how that stuff work for sure!

    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  6. #86
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Final shot of the cover, just resting on top of the footbox:



    Another thing I did this past weekend was to fix the passenger side pipe spacing with pieces purchased from Breeze. One thing about Georgie's stainless pipes: the passenger side turn-in is too short when paired with shortie headers and either j-pipes or CATs. That's just reality. So in order for the pipes to exit the body correctly spacers need to be added. I think it might be sticking out a bit too far now but I'll wait for the body to be mounted before deciding. You can see in these shot though how much better the passenger side now matches the driver's side:





    That's six different spacers added. 3 are even, 1/4" spacers. The other 3 are tapered. You play with the tapered ones to find just the right angle. Again, I'll finalize that when I get the body on.

    Lastly, I'm working on the wipers now. MANY THANKS to edwardb (Paul) for his posts on the subject. They are invaluable! I'm following the to the letter (ordered the wheel boxes from ********** this AM) to FINALLY install the wipers. Thanks Paul!:
    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ml#post4216177


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  7. #87
    Member Georg's Avatar
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    David,

    your "air cleaner shroud" looks really sweet - with another logo in the center will be even better. Really like all the bling you are adding here...

    One question though, since you cover up quite a portion of the air cleaner surface, isn't there the risk the engine gets too less air and you are influence the engine performance? Just curious...

    Keep on coming the updates, my daily lecture... :-)

    Georg

  8. #88
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georg View Post
    David,

    your "air cleaner shroud" looks really sweet - with another logo in the center will be even better. Really like all the bling you are adding here...

    One question though, since you cover up quite a portion of the air cleaner surface, isn't there the risk the engine gets too less air and you are influence the engine performance? Just curious...

    Keep on coming the updates, my daily lecture... :-)

    Georg
    There certainly is Georg, and if I notice it I'll create a smaller one. It only took ~2 hours to create. It's not just for show though. The mass air meter inside the air cleaner doesn't respond well to turbulent air, which you get at the front of the air filter next to the hood scoop at speed. Forcing the air to come in from the back supposedly makes for "calmer" air. I could probably start it up and rev it a little bit to see if I hear any "'weezing'. Sounds like a good excuse to hear the engine anyway!

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  9. #89
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I was working on the wipers over the weekend without much to show for it. My flaring skills are rusty and once the flair was formed the cable wouldn't got through the tube. I'm using 5/16" hardline tubing suggested by edwardb in his build threads. Feeling a little frustrated, I decided to work on my other "last" project, something I really haven't mentioned before:

    I made a roof for my cubby.

    Why? because with the polished cubby now it reflects the back wall (very cool with the engine turning) and it also reflects the roof. I did a couple of experiments by laying some white cardboard, and then a black rug over the top of the cubby. When I put the white cardboard on, you can very plainly see it in the reflection of the cubby floor. It's a 3-D effect that is very easy to see. When I put the black carpet over the top, the whole cubby becomes very dark and the reflection of the back wall is very muted. I didn't like the look of the black carpet at all. But the whole underside of the body is black now. so what to do?

    Well I also have a few extra engine turned panels laying around and when I put those over the top of the cubby you could see the engine turning in the reflection. It's just a bit more subtle than the white but the metallic surface gives the whole cubby a nice reflective "tone". I took a bunch of pics to demonstrate what I'm talking about. Unfortunately I didn't get pics of the black carpet but like I said it just sucked all the light in and the floor of the cubby looked like really dark chrome, which is not the look I'm after on this car.

    On to pics, which show what I'm talking about...

    This is jumping ahead, but gives you an idea of the concept. In this shot I had already created the piece and wrapped it in blue tape while I worked on the outside edges. You can plainly see the "recessed box" look, which is actually a reflection of the roof off of the cubby floor:



    So the idea is to have that blue area be engine turned. The first thing I did was cut a piece of .040 aluminum. The width across the cubby is 38" but I cut the whole 48" from the sheet. I cut the width so that the roof would rest even with the carpet on the forward edge, and on the outside edge of the rear cubby wall bulb seal. (I forgot the width, will add it later) The raw blank looked like this after I cleaned up the new edge:



    I then polished one side of the piece and engine turned it, using light pressure to allow more shine to show through the piece. This shot will give you a good sense of scale. My jig isn't wide enough to do the whol panel, but luckily it IS big enough to do what I needed. Here's the piece right after I finished it. It doesn't have sharkhide on it yet. I'll do that just before doing the final mounting:



    So like I said, after that was done I covered up the engine turned side and started fitting the panel. I covered up the front edge of the cubby (the cockpit wall) with plastic edging and trimmed the carpet so It wouldn't interfere with the new "roof":



    I then placed the new roof on and marked it up so I could bend the sides and attach them to the side walls with rivets. I placed some clecos in the new holes while I fitted and cut/bent the ends. This is what the final shape looks like:







    Continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  10. #90
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    continued...

    And here are a few shots after I engine turned the piece, but before I wrapped it in tape for the fitting. It give you a good idea of what the effect will be when done:









    It's a subtle effect, and looks more dramatic in person. I'm thinking of putting a reversed an inverted factory five logo on the roof, that will reflect as "normal" when you see the reflection off the cubby floor. Kind of like a hidden "easter egg" kind of thing.

    Another idea is to do something with the back side of the cockpit wall, since you can see it in the reflection. And this is where I could really jump the shark. I was thinking about an image of some kind, maybe even a little custom scenery painting? It would be visible in this shot. It's the grey streak running through the racing stripe in this shot:



    I don't what to do here exactly. still pondering...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  11. #91
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Looking great David! I like the FFR reversed logo "easter egg" idea. Nice Ax too!!
    Jazzman

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    continued...


    It's a subtle effect, and looks more dramatic in person. I'm thinking of putting a reversed an inverted factory five loco on the roof, that will reflect as "normal" when you see the reflection off the cubby floor. Kind of like a hidden "easter egg" kind of thing.

    Another idea is to do something with the back side of the cockpit wall, since you can see it in the reflection. And this is where I could really jump the shark. I was thinking about an image of some kind, maybe even a little custom scenery painting? It would be visible in this shot. It's the grey streak running through the racing stripe in this shot:



    I don't what to do here exactly. still pondering...

    The only easter egg that makes sense is to have a Wookie lurking in there
    DB

  13. #93
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I'll keep thinking about what I want to do there (Easter eggs)

    I decided to go ahead and cover the outside of the cubby ceiling piece because the sides are bent down to attach to the side walls and can be seen in the wheel well. A few minutes with the rattlecan (the engine turned face was already taped for the panel fitting) took care of that:



    Then I moved on to the wipers, which after 10 year still have never been installed. I took edwardb's advice in his build and copied his design, using 5/16 brake line and 3/4" aluminum square tubing, along with ********** wheelboxes. For the record, the 3/4" square tubing was cut at a 45 degree angle and the long side measures 1.3" from the top of the angle cut to the 90 degree bottom cut. In other words, it's 1.3" tall. I reamed out the tubing just a bit with a 5/8" drill bit before cutting to final size. I then enlarged the factory cut holes on the painted body (why were they cut so small?) using the 5/8" drill bit (BAD IDEA) on one side and a 5/8" grinding dremel tool (MUCH BETTER IDEA) on the other. That was a hair-raising event indeed, and one that will haunt me until I cut my brother's body sometime in the future for his wipers!

    I cut and single-flared the tubing to fit between the wheel boxes and mocked them up. I chose to have the tubing closest to the body. I hope that's OK?





    Here's the top of the wheelhouse. Luckily, you can barely notice the big gauge the drill bit took out of the paint because the gromment covers it(almost). In "real life" you'd never notice it but I'll always know it's there.



    Today I'll cover the cubby ceiling with sharkhide and then install it. I'm going to add some foam to the sides of the footboxes and the I'll be ready to mount the body!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    So, when are you gonna engine turn a pickguard for that strat?

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jceckard View Post
    So, when are you gonna engine turn a pickguard for that strat?
    You know, I hadn't thought of that! Great idea!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  16. #96
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    I cut and single-flared the tubing to fit between the wheel boxes and mocked them up. I chose to have the tubing closest to the body. I hope that's OK?
    Your wipers will park backwards with the tubing on that side of the wheel boxes. Unless there's a way to reverse the motor or you're not using the park function. You're a brave man for using 5/8-inch drill on a painted body. I was too chicken to even use one on an unpainted body, and did both with a Dremel and some files.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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  17. #97
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Your wipers will park backwards with the tubing on that side of the wheel boxes. Unless there's a way to reverse the motor or you're not using the park function. You're a brave man for using 5/8-inch drill on a painted body. I was too chicken to even use one on an unpainted body, and did both with a Dremel and some files.
    See, I had a feeling there may be a problem, that's why I asked. Thanks so much AGAIN for your continued oversight! I didn't have any instructions and so was kind of winging it. re: the drill. That was stupid on my part, clearly. I at least didn't try it a second time! Dremel tool and files did the job.

    I'll turn the wheel boxes around and set it up correctly. Did you wait until the body was on before cutting the tubing to size between the motor and the first wheel box? And how long of a tube should I make for the far side of the second wheel box? Lastly, is black grease OK for the tubing?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  18. #98
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    See, I had a feeling there may be a problem, that's why I asked. Thanks so much AGAIN for your continued oversight! I didn't have any instructions and so was kind of winging it. re: the drill. That was stupid on my part, clearly. I at least didn't try it a second time! Dremel tool and files did the job.

    I'll turn the wheel boxes around and set it up correctly. Did you wait until the body was on before cutting the tubing to size between the motor and the first wheel box? And how long of a tube should I make for the far side of the second wheel box? Lastly, is black grease OK for the tubing?

    Hey, you're welcome. I've done it both ways. If the firewall location isn't super critical and you haven't drilled the mounting holes yet, you could go ahead and make up the tubing between the motor and first wheel box. Then mount the motor accordingly. I did #7750 that way since there was nothing else on the firewall in that area. For my current build, I've already mounted the wiper motor. So I'll wait until the body is on and the wheelboxes in before making the tubing. For the short piece on the end on the DS, I leave the tube about 6 inches long and pinch the end off. Then just cut the wiper cable inside long enough to stay engaged on the DS wheelbox but short enough to not hit the end. I used regular chassis grease on my cable inside the tubing. Hope that helps!
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Paul, my wiper motor is already attached so I'll wait until the body is on before finishing the last tube between the motor and the first wheel box. Thanks for the tip.

    I didn't have much time yesterday but I did manage to turn the boxes around and re-flare the one tube:



    A simple twist of the tube corrects the bend seen in this shot but the pic I took of it was too blurry to post.

    I also cut the 6" length of the far tube, flared one side and pinched the other side close with a vise:



    I then removed the whole thing to make sure it doesn't interfere with the body mounting, which should happen this weekend:



    Now about that pic guard idea. I think I'll try it on this bad boy:




    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  20. #100
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Yesterday put the body for transport to do some touch-ups at 'Da Bat Cave!











    ..and today I got up early and delivered it. Sorry, no pics...

    There were some small problem areas that needed some touch ups from the master. I had a few nicks on the doors in addition to the basic road rash stuff. It should be ready in a few weeks, and then the body goes on for the last time.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  21. #101
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    It's all coming back together nicely David! When you get ready to do the wiper cuts on Phil's car try this...I put the jig in place then use a long 3/16" bit to make a series of holes around it's I.D. Lift the jig, "connect the dots" and finish shape the hole with a small sanding drum on a Dremel. Although I always do the cutouts prior to paint this method would not scare me in the least on a painted body. I use white lithium grease on the cables.

    Good luck!

    Jeff

  22. #102
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    It's all coming back together nicely David! When you get ready to do the wiper cuts on Phil's car try this...I put the jig in place then use a long 3/16" bit to make a series of holes around it's I.D. Lift the jig, "connect the dots" and finish shape the hole with a small sanding drum on a Dremel. Although I always do the cutouts prior to paint this method would not scare me in the least on a painted body. I use white lithium grease on the cables.

    Good luck!

    Jeff
    Know what Jeff? I'll do exactly that.

    Now if I can only find that dang jig...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Sweet. Yeah, the Voyager would be a better one to start on. Just the one switch to mount. You'll have to break this out into its own off topic thread. I can't wait to see it.

  24. #104
    Senior Member 2FAST4U's Avatar
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    Incredible work

  25. #105
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2FAST4U View Post
    Incredible work
    That's pretty high praise coming from you Bill, Thanks!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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    Dave-

    She looks great! I know whoever ends up buying this car will be overjoyed!

    If you can't find your jig, let me know; I can let you borrow mine, just say the word. By the way -- nerves of steel to take that drill to a painted body!!

    The guitar will look pretty wicked too. Just make sure to make one for both of those guitars though, it would complement them both really well.

    Regards,

    Steve

  27. #107
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    Dave-

    She looks great! I know whoever ends up buying this car will be overjoyed!

    If you can't find your jig, let me know; I can let you borrow mine, just say the word. By the way -- nerves of steel to take that drill to a painted body!!

    The guitar will look pretty wicked too. Just make sure to make one for both of those guitars though, it would complement them both really well.

    Regards,

    Steve
    Yeah, it's just a little sad that I'm taking the time to finally truly finish the build right before I sell it!

    Regarding the pick guard, I created it's own thread after jceckard suggested it:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...tar-Pick-Guard

    I'll be working on that this week so check out that thread for updates!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  28. #108
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I didn't have much time to work on the car last night but I did make a small amount of progress. Last night's project was putting the seatbelt grommets from **********:

    Sharkhide application:



    Cutting holes in carpet, always fun!:



    Drilling holes, attaching grommets (still need to clean up carpet fibers):



    A small note about drilling through carpet. When drilling, I actually reverse the drill so that the carpet doesn't grab the drill and pull out. Drilling holes this way is slow going but necessary...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  29. #109
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Work on 5369RD continues. I received a pretty neat FFR themed gift for father's day:



    In California, the state has decided to offer the old 60's style plate (black with yellow-orange lettering) as an option and I was planning on getting the plate with "F5R5369" as the plate ID but I'll take "F5RACNG"! I'll just keep the plates when I sell the car and use them on my NEXT Factory Five. It will be another month before the plates arrive, and the plan is to have the car done by then. Will I make it?!?

    Back to the car itself, let me ask this question: What's wrong with this picture?:



    Well for me, it's the unpolished driver's footbox front with all the holes in it. Wouldn't it look better polished, and without all the holes? This is what I came up with:





    It's a patch panel, designed to sit on top of the upper portion of the original panel. I measured and cut out a paper template to start from, and then cut a panel from .040 AL. It matches the panel shape underneath, and in fact cleans up the lines just a bit, but the most important thing is it covers all those holes and gives the front of the panel a clean-slate kinda look:





    There is still a large narrow hole in one corner, but I'll attempt to camouflage it with some silver silicone. I've already polished it but don't have a pic of that because my phone has decided it doesn't want to charge EVER AGAIN. So no pics until I get it replaced in early July... Grrr.

    I'll polish the bottom of the original panel today, which will be tough to do while it's mounted. Then I'll sharkide everything and put it together. Then the entire engine bay will have the same theme of polished aluminum.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  30. #110
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Forgot to add, I also bent the upper rad shroud and drilled the mounting holes. I decided to keep this simple and am using 2" spaced rivets instead of the rivnuts I used in the TROJAN build. I haven't drilled the chassis holes yet; those will come when the body is mounted and I can align the stripes:








    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  31. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Forgot to add, I also bent the upper rad shroud and drilled the mounting holes. I decided to keep this simple and am using 2" spaced rivets instead of the rivnuts I used in the TROJAN build. I haven't drilled the chassis holes yet; those will come when the body is mounted and I can align the stripes:

    [
    David
    Did you decide on the "easter egg" theme yet ?

  32. #112
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    David
    Did you decide on the "easter egg" theme yet ?


    I printed this out and played with it a little...



    I've got to find a place that will make a sticker, vinyl cling or similar to put in there...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  33. #113
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I started polishing the front of the driver's footbox by hand last night. I'm glad this is finally getting done! The engine bay will be so much more cohesive now...







    Oh, and I know this guy who knows a guys who... Just kidding. But I did get a call fromm FFR asking if I could pick up their banner for them that they had created for the HB show this year. It flew over the Pier in the week(s) prior to the big event. I asked FFR if I should ship it out and they told me to just hang onto it for now. Well, it was sitting in my garage for a month so I finally decided to "let it breath" a little...








    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  34. #114
    Tool Baron frankeeski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post

    I asked FFR if I should ship it out and they told me to just hang onto it for now. Well, it was sitting in my garage for a month so I finally decided to "let it breath" a little...


    That banner would look better in my shop.
    Frank
    __________________________
    Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
    i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
    I will never forget My Buddy Paul.

  35. #115
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    David:

    Your garage looks fairly cluttered already. I can help you make room by hanging on to that banner until you do some "spring cleaning"... Let me know if I can help, since I have a big garage and I can store it for you...

    BTW, great work on #5369 so far. I had quite a few set-backs during the last couple of months, but hope to get back in the garage this weekend.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  36. #116
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankeeski View Post
    That banner would look better in my shop.
    Frank, I agree, it would. Maybe.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos C View Post
    David:

    Your garage looks fairly cluttered already. I can help you make room by hanging on to that banner until you do some "spring cleaning"... Let me know if I can help, since I have a big garage and I can store it for you...

    BTW, great work on #5369 so far. I had quite a few set-backs during the last couple of months, but hope to get back in the garage this weekend.

    Carlos
    Carlos, someone should come up with a 20' long F5R banner. I bet they'd sell a few...
    Any progress to report?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  37. #117
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    3-1/2 weeks from my last report. I've posted a ton of pics to my pic album so it should take me a few posts to get up to date. Let's get started.

    Here's the final driver's footbox front. You can also see the size of my access hole and the new cover I made:







    I decided to take a look at my seat brackets to install the 5th point in the seat harness and ended up modifying a few of the mounting holes to make them stronger. The outer holes were tapped into the 3/4" and 2" box tubes and I drilled them out to pass through completely and mount with wide washers and bolts on the bottom. Another problem area: When I mounted the bracket originally I made the holes in the carpet very small and the rubber in the sound deadening was catching the carpet on the nut and pulling thread so I also used my punch to widen the clear area around each hole:



    I'm sending the brackets out this week to be powder coated.

    Here's another small problem that will be fixed this week. The lower rad hose is physically touching the driver's side tow hole (obscured by the sway bar in the pic below). I'm thinking if I wrap it in zip-tied rubber at that spot and I'll be good to go:





    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  38. #118
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    continued...

    Good buddy and Fedderson award winner Frankeeski made a full roll bar (with built-in harness bar) for me a few years ago but I had never installed it. I took it to a good metal prep guy Frank suggested and this is what it looks like now:





    I'm ashamed to admit this, but I never installed the pins on my rollbar(s). I took the time this weekend to drill out the pin mounting holes for both roll bars. Here's a shot of the pilot holes going in:



    And here is a shot of the pins. The metal looks to be stage 5 steel. They are 5/16" I believe...



    Those holes were tough to drill out! I think a new set of bits is in order...

    While working on the details of the refresh, there have been a few times where I took one step forward and two steps back...

    I was drilling out the holes for the seat belt harness bezels that go on the back cubby wall when disaster struck not once, but twice. I managed to pull a thread that is visible on the rear cockpit wall, and now I have to replace the carpet on the whole upper half of the rear cockpit wall. And then, somehow I ended up leaning against the dash glovebox pretty hard and the JB-Weld that was holding on the hinges gave way! In order to fix the glove box, the whole dash needed to be removed. Grrr. I hit both sides with a flapper wheel and then reset the door:



    One really good byproduct of removing the dash was that I got to fix an issue with the bezel that goes around the 5 gauges. It is the first piece of metal I ever engine turned. After I had turned it and tested coating it in sharkhide, I got the idea to make a bezel out of it. Well, when I drilled the holes for the gauges with a hole saw I ran the drill too fast and the metal heated up, causing the sharkhide to bubble and discolor. I was able to easily remove the sharkhide with Acetone and re-apply it so that the bezel looks brand new again. I'll get a better shot soon, but the car was on the lift all weekend so this is all I have for now:



    I also took the opportunity to wire up the 3rd brake lite, which is a feature of the new rollbar. In this shot you can see the new harness at the top of the wheel well. I have it plugged with a silicone-filled weather pack connector, like the one that will be hanging off the new rollbar. The silicone-filled piece will function as a "cap" when not in use:



    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  39. #119
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    continued...

    I have two more items to talk about today, the body and the rear wheel wells.

    I had called Jeff a while back to see about fixing a crack I had in the hood air scoop and fixing some scratches a friend of my son had put down one side of the car when they were getting a bike out of the garage. There were a few nice gauges in the top of the doors. I also noted that there was a bubble the size of a silver dollar just behind the exhaust hole opening on the passenger side. It was soft to the touch so I was hoping Jeff could fix that as well. I got a call from Jeff a week or so after I dropped off the body and he explained to me that the bubble was created by something he had never seen before! As I've noted previously, I had a leak in my remote oil filter. Oil had stained the passenger header and cat, and oil covered a large part of the chassis on the passenger side. Apparently, oil had found a way under the paint right next to the header. As the oil heated and cooled, it seeped into some of the glass in the body, staining it. Jeff sent me this pic, which I enlarged. Check this out:



    Two things helped contribute to this situation. First is the oil leak, which has been addressed. The second was the pipe itself, which came out of the body very very close to the fiberglass. This is because I run the Gas'N stainless pipes with FFR's catalytic converters. The "problem" is that the passenger side Gas-N pipe needs to be about 2" longer after it turns into the body. The FFR passenger pipes are supposedly longer than the driver's side, but the Gas-N pipes are equal side-to-side. I called up Mark at Breeze automotive and ordered his pipe extenders, and now both pipes sit equidistant from the body and are nice and parallel to the body. This is a detail that many builders miss, but once you point it out it's quite obvious that the pipes don't always match side-to-side. Now they're perfect.

    The last thing to talk about today is a set of filler pieces I'm making for the front of the rear wheel well, which spans the space between the frame and the body:



    The outer edge will have bulb seal and the inner side will be rivited to the frame. They will have quite a bit of "english" applied to them to get them into the proper spot, but this is what they look like flat:



    I'll be working on these today and hopefully can post some pics of them mocked up tomorrow.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  40. #120
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    Dave-

    I see you are using some removeable pins on the roll bar. Are you making the roll bar so it is able to be removed, and the other roll bar(s) used in its place? I like the wide bar, and especially the third brake light! I am sure it is practical as well.

    You are doing some heavy lifting on this ride Sir! Keep up the good work.

    Regards,

    Steve

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