MKIII #5369 "Refresh" Thread - A bat spit shine!

[Carlos C]

Carlos, someone should come up with a 20' long F5R banner. I bet they'd sell a few...
Any progress to report?

Yes, I've been busy working in the garage lately. Check out the last couple of post on my thread.

Carlos

[David Hodgkins]

Dave-

I see you are using some removeable pins on the roll bar. Are you making the roll bar so it is able to be removed, and the other roll bar(s) used in its place? I like the wide bar, and especially the third brake light! I am sure it is practical as well.

You are doing some heavy lifting on this ride Sir! Keep up the good work.

Regards,

Steve

Yes Sir. I have polished aluminum block off plates for the roll bar body holes so I can run it as a true roadster, with a driver's rollbar or the full width bar. I'm probably going to use Tangent hidden roll bar connectors for all the downtubes at the hoop and pins at the base.

[David Hodgkins]

Carlos your powdercoater cabinet looks great! very inspirational. With the amount of powder coating some of us OCD builders do the cabinet and associated equipment HAS to pay for itself. I think I'm going to take on that project at some point. Thanks for the inspiration!

[David Hodgkins]

Last night I howled at the moon a little bit but still managed to get some stuff done.

I didn't divulge this in my last update but there was a little hiccup on the way to Da' Bat cave to pick up the body. (<-- That last line coulda' come out of a gangster movie, but I digress...) I was driving in the slow lane but still doing a healthy 65 and keeping a close eye on the chassis because all the splash guards were on the car. Sure enough, as I was watching the chassis in the mirror a gust of wind came up, I saw the rear splash guard start to wobble, and it ripped off. I saw it land on the shoulder as I quickly pulled off the freeway and stopped. Well, quickly as in on the other side of a bridge, at least 200 yards away. I hopped out of the truck and jogged back to the splash guard, which had indeed landed off the freeway and, incredibly, was unscathed save a few minor scratches!

So yes, ladies and gentlemen, you can mount the body with the splash guards (and under door aluminum) in place. Just don't drive too fast to the painter with an open trailer or you might not arrive with a complete chassis.

Getting back to the build, the ripped-off splash panel still had all the rivet heads in place so it was easy to drill everything out and re-mount it. Actually having the splash panel off the car made getting the MKIII gas pipe setup re-attached a LOT easier so there you go. I then put some anti seize on the wheel snouts and put the rear wheels back on so I could use the scissor lift to help lower the gas tank.

Then I mounted the rear bumper:



Like I said though, I didn't work full time on the build but did a bit of just "hanging out at the shop" with some shop neighbors. I was showing off the build and one thing they really dug is the easter egg. If you guys have read the whole thread I'm repeating myself here but the idea is to use the reflection of the polished aluminum to hide an image - the easter egg - that can only be seen from certain angles. As a test, I printed out a reversed Factory Five Logo out, measuring maybe 5" across:



I then taped it to the engine-turned roof of the cubby. So if you are standing next to the car and you look down at the rear of the cockpit you see this:



The cool thing is the 3-d reflection makes it look like there's a deep box in the cubby, with a logo on the bottom:



In the last two shots you can see where I drilled through the roof of the cubby with a 2-1/4" hole saw for the roll bar. The body hole had been elongated a bit and so I had to guess where to drill the hole but I got SUPER lucky and the hole placement is perfect! A perfect 1/8" clearance around the roll bar. I don't need any kind of grommet. So Cool. And NOBODY will ever see it.

Last items to report from yesterday are that I took the nose aluminum and seat brackets in to get powder coated. The shop has a $45 minimum so even though I wasn't planning to do the nose aluminum I threw them in there as well. It'll help out with blacking out the front wheel well so what the heck. I also dropped by the upholstery guy again and made a definite plan to drop the car off Monday morning. At least the car has a body on it now so I won't feel like an idiot driving 2 blocks with just the chassis like I was thinking about doing before...

I'm back at it today with a plan to hit Lows or Home Depot for some expanded aluminum to do the front air intakes and then finish installing the footbox fresh air intake fittings and tubes.

[David Hodgkins]

7/21 update:

I stopped by the local metal supply yesterday to pick up some mesh to use with the front air openings. While there I noticed they also sell the aluminum and plastic NOMEX honeycomb sheets that you can use to protect the radiator. Both the mesh and NOMEX come in a variety of patterns and I ended up getting the hexagon shape for both the mesh and NOMEX.

Here's the mesh:



The NOMEX is really light and lets a lot of air through. The sheet I got is 1/4" thick and should (hopefully) repel anything up to a decent sized rock:





To give you an idea how much air this stuff lets through at a certain angle...




As far as actual work on the car, the rear bumper was not finalized the day before so I finished that. That ended taking up WAY too much time because one of the bolts was not "stock" and I foolishly went to Home Depot looking for a 8" X 7/16" bolt. Their bolts in that length jump from 3/8" to 1/2" so no go. The bolt in question was simply too long so I threw a few extra washers on it, installed it and called it a day.

Tonight, assuming I get a list of honey-do's done, I'll work on forming the mesh for the openings at the front of the car. Once that's done they will be painted black and installed along with the footbox fresh air tubes.

[David Hodgkins]

7/21 update:

../Tonight, assuming I get a list of honey-do's done, I'll work on forming the mesh for the openings at the front of the car. Once that's done they will be painted black and installed along with the footbox fresh air tubes.

Yeah, so, I didn't get to any of that over the weekend due to other obligations. I only got a few hours on Sunday afternoon to work on the car so my appointment for today (Monday) to take the car to the upholstery shop got delayed until Thursday.

What I did do though was finish and install a set of custom block off panels for the front of the rear wheel well. These bridge the gap between the frame and the body. I shared to flat shape in a pic a couple of posts above. This is an interesting piece because on side is totally straight to rivet onto the frame and the other side is totally curved to match the body. Another small hurtle to clear was the fact that the rear cockpit wall had already been riveted to the frame. So the idea was to bend the straight piece using a vice and manual force. Then apply more english to shape the outer curve to go from a near 90 degree bent to flat in about 8 inches. The first thing I did was trim a few relief points for the spot where the piece would transverse the frame support tube. Then I placed the panel in position and noted where the top rivet (just under the relief cut) contacted the new block off plate and i hit it with a few blows of a ball peen hammer. This allowed the top of the rivet to mark the metal of the block off plate:



Now I had my first rivet location so I bent the piece progressively in the vice until I could place the piece on the frame, mark and drill the bottom hole. Once those two were done it was easy to mark the relative position where the rest of the rivets were and the hammer the metal so all of the rivet heads marked the new piece. then I drilled out all the holes and all the existing rivets. They all lined up pretty well and I only had to ream one or two holes with the 1/8" drill bit to achieve a perfect fit. Then I painted the panel with a few coats of black undercoating, attached bulb seal and then caulked and riveted the new panel in.

Here are pics to help visualize the project:

You can see where I had tapped the top portion of the new panel with the ball peen hammer to imprint the rivet locations in the metal:



A few pics showing the metal after being bent:





Here's all the rivets drilled out:



A really bad pic of the final piece:


And installing with silicone and rivets:

[WIS89]

Dave-

Are you going to use the honeycomb and the metal mesh in the radiator opening? Or, is the metal for the brake and oil cooler, and the honeycomb for the radiator protection? Or, have I got it all wrong, and you have a different plan?

I am interested in what you think of the honeycomb, as I am thinking of using that material as well.

Thanks!

Regards,

Steve

[David Hodgkins]

Hi Steve,

I'll use the metal mesh on the brake and oil cooler openings and the honeycomb over the radiator.

I think I'll have to reshape the radiator shroud to make that work; we'll see...

[WIS89]

Thanks for the quick response Dave. I have been trying to think through the honeycomb and shroud interface issue as well. It will be nice to see you do it first; thanks!! :-o)

I appreciate all the info!

Regards,

Steve

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks for the quick response Dave. I have been trying to think through the honeycomb and shroud interface issue as well. It will be nice to see you do it first; thanks!! :-o)

I appreciate all the info!

Regards,

Steve

Steve, I'll be getting to the Honeycomb and shroud within a few days now, so stay tuned.

[David Hodgkins]

OK so I was back at it again last night for a bit and got a few things done. First was putting a final coat of undercoating on the under side of the upper fan shroud. This will be visible if you were to stick your head in the nose of the car and look up. In other words, probably never! But I went through the trouble of undercoating the whole body so this is in keeping with that theme:



I have a few other things I want to finish first - namely the side body bolts (done) and front air intake screens - before I attach the upper fan shroud but I took a minute to mock it up and get a preview shot or 2 for you:





The next thing I did was to align the passenger side pipe. Earlier in the thread I showed how I added spacers to the passenger side pipe. Well, I didn't set up the hanger underneath the car. Namely because I wanted to wait for the body to come back from Jeff's before I formally set it up. The hanger had been bent from hitting the u-haul trailer previously and wasn't lining up with the pipe so I took it off the car and straightened it. Luckily I didn't have to re-drill any mounting holes and I was able to reassemble it without issue and match the alignment to the driver's side:

Driver's side:


Passenger side:






Both pipes are now nicely parallel to both the body and the main frame rails.

continued...

[rickscobra]

Hi Steve,

I'll use the metal mesh on the brake and oil cooler openings and the honeycomb over the radiator.

I think I'll have to reshape the radiator shroud to make that work; we'll see...

I have just received my radiator wrap panel from Mike E. How hard is it to install after the body is on? How difficult is it to install and remove the body if the shroud is installed prior to putting the body on?

[David Hodgkins]

continued...

Another thing I did - and this is exciting folks! - was install the wheelhouses for the wipers! I have working, parking wipers! For the first time in a decade, years after the wiper motor was installed, I HAVE WORKING WIPERS!!

Well, the wheelhouses, anyway. I copied edwardb's design and used 5/16 brakeline for the wiper cable shroud. This tubing is a perfect size for the wiper cable and attaches to the wheelhouse via single flare (It's not meant to be air-tight so I went with the easier single-flare):



I'm going to cut new rubber gaskets because these don't stretch out uniformly but here they are, mounted:



... and working!:


Oh, and lastly, I reattached the hood scoop to the hood. It had cracked and Da Bat fixed it. (no pic)



PS The car goes in for an upholstery overhaul tomorrow! Awesome!

[David Hodgkins]

I have just received my radiator wrap panel from Mike E. How hard is it to install after the body is on? How difficult is it to install and remove the body if the shroud is installed prior to putting the body on?

Is Mike's panel flat, or in the shape of the opening? If it's flat then you should be able to just curl it up and unfurl it inside the opening, with the body on. If it is formed and stiff, then I imagine you'd have to mount it before the body... Got a pic?

[David Hodgkins]

I stuck my cell phone under the dash and got this pic of the wiper install. The wheelhouses are right up against the firewall. Sorry for the grainy pic:



Last night I concentrated on the front of the car. I installed the last piece of hose for the fresh air vents but the fun thing I did was making new vent grills. I shaped a piece of wood to fit inside one of the old grills and then flattened out the old grill and used it as a template for the new ones. I few key snips of the mesh helped facilitate molding the new grill mesh over the wood plug and I then covered the mesh in sharkhide and mounted the intakes. Take a look:









Hoo boy, that flash really makes those spider cracks pop! I didn't even notice them when I took the pic...

I also have the front fan enclosure pieces back from the powdercoater so I install the floor piece last night. I ended up modifying it on the fly to fit better by trimming the sides to fit over the breeze lower radiator mount. I hate to cut stuff after it's been coated but form always follows function!:



The light spot on the metal is a reflection...



This morning I took the roadster down the block to the upholstery guy to fix the carpeting. I still haven't figured out what the plan is for the transmission cover so it stays bare for now but the driver's foot box and the door thresholds are being done and I'm getting the cubby and upper trunk shelf floors carpeted. The latter two pieces will have snaps and they will be remove-able. I'm also carpeting just the floor of the glove box. We'll see how it comes out this afternoon!

[David Hodgkins]

Absolute freaking nightmare. Despite repeatedly telling them what I wanted the carpet guy GLUED THE CARPET TO THE CUBBY FLOOR!

I don't even want to talk about it.

[2FAST4U]

I feel your frustration Dave

[6t8dart]

That sucks, but you can correct it...3M Adhesive remover, the stuff works well, you will need lots of towels though.


08984.jpg

[WIS89]

Dave-

I am SO sorry! Outrageously frustrating!!

Hopefully you can get it resolved without too much fuss.

Regards,

Steve

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks guys. We'll see what the overall damage is today. They also did a good job of scratching up the trunk too when they were laying the floor piece. I'll probably have to strip both floors with Acetone to do away with the Sharkhide, then I'll re-polish by hand and re-Sharkhide.

Awesome.

I'm wondering what accommodation he'll offer, if any. If he doesn't offer, I may just go ahead and ask for a discount. I was very, very clear on multiple occasions describing what I wanted and he confirmed what I wanted verbally when we were discussing it. Those instructions obviously weren't relayed to the worker who did the job. I hate doing that and I normally tend to pay the price and just never use that vendor again... We'll see what happens.

[David Hodgkins]

I picked up the roadster from the carpet guy yesterday...

The sharkhide will have to come off and be re-applied. The carpet came out very nice though. It had better considering the price he charged!!

The carpet has a felt back so it doesn't harm the aluminum (any more!)







Door sills nicely finished off... And the seat brackets have been powdercoated:



The cubby:





I'll be working her all day today. I'd like to finish her up this weekend!

[ehansen007]

Thanks guys. We'll see what the overall damage is today. They also did a good job of scratching up the trunk too when they were laying the floor piece. I'll probably have to strip both floors with Acetone to do away with the Sharkhide, then I'll re-polish by hand and re-Sharkhide.

Awesome.

I'm wondering what accommodation he'll offer, if any. If he doesn't offer, I may just go ahead and ask for a discount. I was very, very clear on multiple occasions describing what I wanted and he confirmed what I wanted verbally when we were discussing it. Those instructions obviously weren't relayed to the worker who did the job. I hate doing that and I normally tend to pay the price and just never use that vendor again... We'll see what happens.

Sorry to hear man. I know how much time you put into that sheemetal. Unbelievable.

[David Hodgkins]

I'm close now, but not quite finished. First off, there is a coolant issue I have to deal with but I did work on her quite a bit this weekend.

Doors are on, seats are in...:


Upper fan shroud holes drilled. Mock up:




Still need to polish and coat fan shroud:



NOMEX plastic radiator guard painted. Original nose aluminum installed:





Front bumper installed:



continued...

[David Hodgkins]

continued...

Nose shroud mostly engine turned, finishing tonight:



Soo CLOSE! I need to finish a few items and then she'll be ready to sell.

• I still haven't come up with something I like for a trans cover.
• The seats need some repair but I'm going to look for another upholstery shop to do the work.
• Have to finish engine turning and then sharkhiding the nose shroud.
• New Tires and alignment.
• Polish and install roll bar grommets.
• Install door pockets.

[David Hodgkins]

Last night I finished engine turning the nose shroud and was able to place it in he opening. I didn't have time to put a few rivets in but MAN, I now have the best looking snout I've ever seen. It's simply gorgeous! It was 10PM when I quit last night so the pics of it installed are TERRIBLE but wait until I get some decent shots in daylight!:







With the NOMEX painted black and installed. Surprisingly, I didn't have to change the nose shroud because the NOMEX sits flush with the radiator sides. The shroud is holding it in on the bottom and the upper fan shroud (+ a few zip ties) will hold the top of the NOMEX in place:









Like I said the installed pics are terrible. I'll post some new ones tonight or tomorrow.

Tonight I'll install the upper fan shroud and hood. I'll probably hold off putting it up for sale until the seat covers are repaired and I have some sort of fancy trans cover installed...

[WIS89]

Dave-

The combination of the high polish and the engine turning make her beak look outstanding!

I am surprised to hear that the the nomex didn't require you to modify the shroud in any way. It looks great, and the black paint provides a nice contrast.

Looks great brother!!

Regards,

Steve

[ehansen007]

Last night I howled at the moon a little bit but still managed to get some stuff done.

I didn't divulge this in my last update but there was a little hiccup on the way to Da' Bat cave to pick up the body. (<-- That last line coulda' come out of a gangster movie, but I digress...) I was driving in the slow lane but still doing a healthy 65 and keeping a close eye on the chassis because all the splash guards were on the car. Sure enough, as I was watching the chassis in the mirror a gust of wind came up, I saw the rear splash guard start to wobble, and it ripped off. I saw it land on the shoulder as I quickly pulled off the freeway and stopped. Well, quickly as in on the other side of a bridge, at least 200 yards away. I hopped out of the truck and jogged back to the splash guard, which had indeed landed off the freeway and, incredibly, was unscathed save a few minor scratches!

So yes, ladies and gentlemen, you can mount the body with the splash guards (and under door aluminum) in place. Just don't drive too fast to the painter with an open trailer or you might not arrive with a complete chassis.

Getting back to the build, the ripped-off splash panel still had all the rivet heads in place so it was easy to drill everything out and re-mount it. Actually having the splash panel off the car made getting the MKIII gas pipe setup re-attached a LOT easier so there you go. I then put some anti seize on the wheel snouts and put the rear wheels back on so I could use the scissor lift to help lower the gas tank.

Then I mounted the rear bumper:



Like I said though, I didn't work full time on the build but did a bit of just "hanging out at the shop" with some shop neighbors. I was showing off the build and one thing they really dug is the easter egg. If you guys have read the whole thread I'm repeating myself here but the idea is to use the reflection of the polished aluminum to hide an image - the easter egg - that can only be seen from certain angles. As a test, I printed out a reversed Factory Five Logo out, measuring maybe 5" across:



I then taped it to the engine-turned roof of the cubby. So if you are standing next to the car and you look down at the rear of the cockpit you see this:



The cool thing is the 3-d reflection makes it look like there's a deep box in the cubby, with a logo on the bottom:



In the last two shots you can see where I drilled through the roof of the cubby with a 2-1/4" hole saw for the roll bar. The body hole had been elongated a bit and so I had to guess where to drill the hole but I got SUPER lucky and the hole placement is perfect! A perfect 1/8" clearance around the roll bar. I don't need any kind of grommet. So Cool. And NOBODY will ever see it.

Last items to report from yesterday are that I took the nose aluminum and seat brackets in to get powder coated. The shop has a $45 minimum so even though I wasn't planning to do the nose aluminum I threw them in there as well. It'll help out with blacking out the front wheel well so what the heck. I also dropped by the upholstery guy again and made a definite plan to drop the car off Monday morning. At least the car has a body on it now so I won't feel like an idiot driving 2 blocks with just the chassis like I was thinking about doing before...

I'm back at it today with a plan to hit Lows or Home Depot for some expanded aluminum to do the front air intakes and then finish installing the footbox fresh air intake fittings and tubes.

That is some serious Harry Potter **** right there Hagrid. Nice work! One of my favorite things I've ever seen on this forum!

[David Hodgkins]

That is some serious Harry Potter **** right there Hagrid. Nice work! One of my favorite things I've ever seen on this forum!

Wow, Thanks Erik!

[David Hodgkins]

Last night I finished the nose shroud and the upper fan shroud installs. I also installed the hood scoop back onto the hood after it was repaired by 'Da Bat. Then I went home and threw out my back while watching TV! So no working on the Cobra tonight...

Pics tell the story...:













I also finally got a decent shot of the gauge cluster bezel. This was the very first piece of metal I engine-turned. I'm glad I was able to re-sharkhide it. It looks brand new now:



The list gets whittled down just a bit:

• I still haven't come up with something I like for a trans cover.
• The seats need some repair but I'm going to look for another upholstery shop to do the work.
• New Tires and alignment.
• Polish and install roll bar grommets.
• Install door pockets.

[Carlos C]

David:

Love your radiator shroud. This is the second one I've seen you fabricate. Was there a difference in shape between this one and the MK4? How hard was it to create a paper template considering the location, and how many tries did it take to get it right? I plan to make my own shroud, when it comes time for me to build a Roadster. Thanks in advance for the info.

Carlos

[David Hodgkins]

David:

Love your radiator shroud. This is the second one I've seen you fabricate. Was there a difference in shape between this one and the MK4? How hard was it to create a paper template considering the location, and how many tries did it take to get it right? I plan to make my own shroud, when it comes time for me to build a Roadster. Thanks in advance for the info.

Carlos

Hi Carlos,

Yes, the shape is substantially different between the MKIII and MKIV. I made a paper template for each side (2 revs) and then taped them together to get the base shape and then did a "template" out of cheap galvanized metal. Based on that fit i made a few tweaks and then cut out the final shape from thin stainless steel. I didn't use aluminum for the nose because I needed metal with memory and spring that could curl up to get into the space and then would unfurl once inside the space. The stainless is darker and the result is more subtle but I like it for the exterior of the car. I was kinda lazy and didn't get a "final" template shape to keep for the future. I might at some point pull both shrouds out and make templates off of them, especially if I decide to produce them as a vendor.

[David Hodgkins]

I tool Monday off and went back to work on the car yesterday. It took a lot longer than it should have, but the roll bar grommets are all re-polished, have shark hide applied, have new rubber spacers (made from a rubber cargo mat; I couldn't find rubber sheeting anywhere) and are installed. I also installed the u-shaped trim rubber on the door sills.

If I can chase down my small electrical gremlin with the temperature gauges she'll be fully road ready.

It feels nice to finally have decent door sills!:





Grommets all nice and pretty... I considers engine-turning them but then thought that might be too over-the-top:






ALMOST done...:



Question: Do you guys think I should polish the wheel trim rings and spinners?



Meanwhile, the list gets whittled down just a bit more, but I'm adding something I forgot:

• I still haven't come up with something I like for a trans cover.
• The seats need some repair but I'm going to look for another upholstery shop to do the work.
• New Tires and alignment.
• Install 3rd brake light in full length roll bar.
• Install door pockets.

[AC Bill]

Your roll bar cover plates look great David.
Being that your bucket seats seem very low on the backs, have you thought of adding head rests? If so, it might be a good time to look at that while in the upholstery shop.

Any plans for side rear view mirrors? Are they required in your state?

[David Hodgkins]

Your roll bar cover plates look great David.
Being that your bucket seats seem very low on the backs, have you thought of adding head rests? If so, it might be a good time to look at that while in the upholstery shop.

Any plans for side rear view mirrors? Are they required in your state?

Believe it or not the side mirrors are already mounted! they are in the upper corners of the windshield. I might change them out for something else but haven't decided.
re: headrests, those seats were originally the tall-back Kirkey Intermediates that I converted into lowback seats. I saved the original headrests and I had the upholstery guy "finish" them. I have to make a mount for them> I'll post a pic soon to show you what ideas I'm considering...

[Jeff Kleiner]

Question: Do you guys think I should polish the wheel trim rings and spinners?

Question back at ya': If you start polishing them will you be able to resist the temptation to engine turn them while you're at it? You know how you are

BTW, I REALLY like the logo reflection! You are a polishing/turning beast!

Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

Question back at ya': If you start polishing them will you be able to resist the temptation to engine turn them while you're at it? You know how you are

BTW, I REALLY like the logo reflection! You are a polishing/turning beast!

Jeff

I think I'm DONE engine turning on this project! The logo reflection took a major step backward when the upholstery guy GLUED the cubby carpet down! I have to strip and re-polish the floor this week. I hope there's no permanent damage there...

[David Hodgkins]

MORE work done this weekend; getting pretty dang close to DONE DONE!

Installed the louvers, door pockets and the biggie, the duel roll bar. The down tubes haven't been drilled for the pins yet, but I did install the 3rd brake light and hook it up using a weatherpack connector.

Pics:

Installing the LED "third light" in the rollbar was a tricky proposition!


Made sure the bar was level before I drilled the hole for the light wires:



The wiring:





It works!:





The last thing I did was put 150 miles on it on Saturday! I drove from the beach out to Upland to show the rollbar off to pipe bender extraordinaire Frankeeski.

Then today I drove it to work!:



The list grows shorter but further amended...:

• I still haven't come up with something I like for a trans cover.
• The seats need some repair but I'm going to look for another upholstery shop to do the work.
• New tires and alignment.
• Fix water and oil temp gauges.
• Make grill to cover oil cooler opening.

[David Hodgkins]

No pics today, sorry. I realized I'd forgotten to make the cover plate for the trunk lid so last night was spent fabricating that. I made out from .040 aluminum. Cut out the rough shape, and then the final shape. I then polished it. tonight I'll engine turn it (OK I guess I wasn't done engine turning after all!) and mount it...



EDIT: I found a few shots of a cover plate I made for my brother's build to give you an Idea of what I'm making:

[AC Bill]

You sure do now know how to shine aluminum..!

[Jazzman]

I love the lights in the roll bar. I have been considering doing exactly that, but couldn't figure out how to access that area to install the lights or how in the world you would hold the lights in place. How did you do it? I also wonder how to get all the holes drilled perfectly straight and round. I am actually thinking of doing this on the Breeze traditional roll bars, not on a single bar like you have. I guess this means the holes would be drilled in an arch pattern, but it doesn't make it any easier!! Great work, David!