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Thread: #8793 MK4 Build ('15 IRS, '16 Coyote, 15" wheels)

  1. #41
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    GREAT build so far, and very educational. Not much to add; just keep on truckin'...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  2. #42
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Small updates. Lots going on so I don't have more than an hour every few days to poke around in the garage. Driveshaft completes the T56 Mag question. Link here for more details and pictures:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...est-driveshaft!

    The transmission mount requires modification. It's a very simple 10 minute job though. Here's a picture for reference on what needs to be cut and where.


    All of my other mock ups worked out just fine. I'm just about ready to pull the motor back out. A few things to note, the FFR BBK headers for the 2015 coyote fit without issue with my new firewall and driver foot box modifications. The header studs need to come out for them to fit. I didn't realize that before I dropped the motor in place and it was a little tight pulling them out. Here's quick picture for reference if anyone needs to see clearance. This is from the drive seat area into the engine bay with the small patch panel removed.


    Other times of note that I completed, but don't have pictures on. ECU bracket is built on the same passenger side area that everyone typically places it. It's the only place it really will fit. I mounted the motor fuse box against the firewall behind the motor, drilled the 2" hole for the wire pass through, mocked up the wiper motor and drilled holes for mounts, and make a firewall bracket for behind the dash to support the center of the firewall. All simple and common items.

    I figured out my mounting points for the power steering reservoir and the valve cover breather catch can. The P/S reservoir is a small moroso unit that Forte supplied. I'm mounting it low on the front passenger side of the motor on a 3/4" tube next to the F-panel. I also have a cooler on order, Breeze fan shroud, and Breeze quick disconnect steering wheel hub. After measure the lines for all the P/S I emailed them to Forte so he could get the lines made up for me. For the valve cover breathers, I sent back the JLT catch can since I realized it really was a waste for my use. I'm not going to have to deal with any emissions (doing an EPA transfer exception) and I realized both valve cover breathers feed into the intake. One before the TB, one after. A catch can on one side is only going to help out 50%. Instead I'm just going to route both breathers into a moroso vent can. The one I ordered was a little bigger then I anticipated but finding room for it wasn't a problem.

    http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-85473-C...ilpage_o02_s00

    I ended up mounting it on the lower passenger side of the F-panel. This allowed for easy access for to the drain plug, kept it low and out of sight, and two nutserts allowed me to easily remove it. I did make a small bracket between the lower F-panel and the 4" frame tube to help reduce any vibrations as the lower F-panel doesn't have a lot of support.

    One of the items I wanted to figure out early on was the duel clutch switch for the new 2015 Coyote motors. There are two large plunger style switches (CBT & CTT). One is normally open and one is normally closed. The both read that the clutch is depressed (circuit is closed when clutch is depressed) but from different sides. Spacing and mounting for these is possible but would be a PITA given space and all the custom brackets that would be needed. My solution was $12 and a whole lot easier. I used two brake light switches and mounted them one on top of the other in the same manor that FFR used for the brake light switch. I did call Ford racing tech to confirm that there was not ECU requirements or timing checks to see if one switch was open and one was closed. They checked and informed me that both were simple on/off triggers to the ECU. Here's my solution:

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:31 AM.

  3. #43
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Kirkey Vintage Bucket with Sliders

    So far on this project I have more time into the seats then any other single part of the build. Coming into the build I knew this was going to be a little bit of a challenge due to my goals:

    • Enable someone who is 6'4" and 4'10" to comfortably drive the car
    • Be able to be in a comfortable seating position for track events
    • Retain a stock or factory look to the seats

    When I picked up my kit at the factory one of things I didn't realize was just how small the stock upgraded leather seats were. I sat far to high (I actually looked over the top of the windshield), too far forward, and I couldn't hardly get my feet under the dash. The solution for me was a set of Kirkey vintage bucket seats, speedway sliders, and a whole lot of design and mock up time. The seats will get the side wings trimmed down (I have new aluminum bead edging inbound from Kirkey) and I'll get he seats foamed and custom upholstered at a local hot rod interior shop. I ended up doing several designs and mock ups before I finally ended up with this approach.

    I needed to keep the seat as low as possible while allowing for clearance for the sliders, taking into consideration the carpet and dynomat. I also needed to put the sliders themselves on a rack/angle so that when it was all the way forward my wife was sitting a little higher than I was. Here's the design I ended up using:



    For the sliders, I cut off the studs and drilled through them to allow for use of grade 8, 5/16 bolts. You can see my first attempts where I just drilled new holes in the base of the sliders. This limited the range of the seats though. The tube frame is 3/4" square. Attaching it to the slider are stainless square shoulder lag bolts. The smooth button head gives enough clearance for the internal sliders. I did have to square up the hole in the 3/4" tube on the under side so the shoulders would fit through so it could sit flush. The seats are mounted on 6 points. Probably overkill but I wanted some support on the front. Again, all 5/16 grade 8 hardware. The seat bottoms will get an insert that will be removable just like the stock seats. It doesn't show it in the pictures, but the final mounting will have a few spacers under the front to provide a little recline/rake to the seat. Where I had to drill into the 4" tube, I drilled all the way through it and used a 5" grade 8 bolt.

    You can see in the following pictures that I ended up with 7" of total travel on the seat. For ease of entry I also have a breeze quick release hub so the wheel can come on/off. My wife fully forward fits and with a small clutch pedal adjustment (moved it forward about 1 1/2") she should be able to drive it without issue. Overall I would say it's a win for now.

    All the motor mock up is done and the motor is out so I can continue on with more final install, panel paint and coatings. I've been on a bit of a shopping spree with other upgrades recently too. Breeze fan shroud & radiator support, Breeze quick release steering hub, 3" plastic blast gate & becool inline blowers, dynomat Xtreme, Finshline emblems and floor mats, trunk support kit (replicaparts), and extra carpet for the trunk.




    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:32 AM.

  4. #44
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Very small updates. I'm just finishing up a few small items in getting prepped for panel painting and undercoating. Very little time this month with family, spring house projects, etc. Here's some quick pics. I finished cutting up the seats and dropped them off at a local hot rod upholstery shop. I don't have access to a tig setup with helium for aluminum welding and this didn't justify going out an buying it so I just used JB Weld to attach the new pinch moldings. Kirkey doesn't have it listed on their site but they will ship it to you for $5 a foot, minimum 5 ft order if you call them directly.

    I came across a few other 'upgrades' I didn't know about/hadn't yet purchased so I figured I might as well get those too. First was the ReplicaParts trunk support kit. For $75 it's a good deal. I would have nearly that much into it and probably 2hrs of sourcing parts if I did it myself. Simple, clean install allowing the trunk to stay open on it's own without having to deal with a prop rod rolling around in the trunk. I was a little skeptical at first after hand pushing the valves in but it works out perfectly with the hinge leverage.

    Next up was 'fresh air' or air movement in the foot boxes. Lots of people recommend this so I figured why not. I'm already using the front cut outs for brake ducting so packaging will be interesting. I'll probably end up just pulling from under the car in front of the foot boxes since that's a low pressure/faster air moving area. Exhaust temps shouldn't impact the air temp too much if I angle it right. I didn't want to do the whole 'kit' route as it seamed way too expensive so I did the quick DYI route. Clutch cables on Amazon were about $9 each, 3" manual plastic blast gates were about $7 each, and the BeCool blowers were about $45 each.

    I also needed a backup light in Mass so after searching what other people had done I replicated what I thought was the best approach. LED lights mounted into the lower part of a license plate bracket. Simple and effective.

    Also, if you are in Mass and wondering, after a few calls to the RMV and MAC centers they confirmed that the RMV wants a manual parking brake. It's not specifically listed one way or another on the RMV legal requirements and it did feel like more of an opinion rather than a rule, but I'm going with it for now. I passed the info along to Gordon as he was waiting on it to continue work on my rear brakes.



    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:32 AM.

  5. #45
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Updates:

    Fuel lines and brake lines are routed and in. For the brake lines the Eastwood Flaring tool and hand bender came in really handy. You can see in the picture below where I chose to mount the fuel filter. It should provide easy access in the rare event I need to change it. I used all the FFR push on high pressure line fittings and ended up getting a few other fittings to finish it out. The hard line they supplied between the tank pump and the filter just wasn't going to work for me so I ended up cutting the hard line, using the push on fittings and getting some high pressure fuel line with correct clamps. This allowed me to run it where I wanted without issue. I used the stock supplied fuel lines (main line & return line). A trip to Fortes and we were able to sort out and get lines made up for the connections in the motor bay between the hard lines, the fuel pressure reg and from the regulator to the motor. While I was there we also sorted out all the fittings and lines needed for the P/S (pump to rack, rack to cooler, cooler to reservoir, reservoir to pump). For reference, I'm also using an in tank 155L/hr pump that Forte supplied me with. A larger pumpk is not needed according to Mike and Ford (per FordInstShtM-6017-504V.pdf, page 17).

    Other items of interest. I'm running under car exhaust so I fabricated a quick heat shield for the fuel lines. All the engine bay panels are getting prepped with aluminum primer and final painted with Eastwood underhood matte black. I've used this product before and am very happy with it's performance. All the under car panels are getting coated in Fusor 805hd. First time for me using this product. I sprayed out two tubes today and was very impressed with how it laid down with their gun. It didn't go very far though. Basically assume a single tube per main floor panel. I've ordered a case (12) more tubes. This should be enough for all the panels and under body areas I want to coat.

    With any luck the panels should all be final mounted, motor/trans/worlds shortest drive shaft all installed in the next few weeks.





    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:33 AM.

  6. #46
    Member Lancaster Lad's Avatar
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    Mr DUKE
    I just saw a post on the other site about Mr Levy almost being done with the IRS brake brackets. Since I also have 2015 IRS
    and 15IN wheels and had called Mr Levy after you had contacted him, looks like I should be getting a call soon. Maybe not tomorrow
    but at least by end of summer. I am following your build with gusto. It is nice to have some builders pave the way for those
    of us who " we are not worthy "

    Cecil

    high desert SoCal

  7. #47
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lancaster Lad View Post
    ...but at least by end of summer.
    Thanks, hopefully a little sooner than end of summer

  8. #48
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Updates:

    I finished the painting and Fusor 805hd coating on the aluminum. I ended up having to buy a case of the Fusor because it didn't go nearly as far as I thought it would. For the entire under panels on the car I ended up using 5 tubs. I have another 7 left for the underside of the body. Overall I'm not sure I would use the Fusor again. It lays down nice but it's extremely soft and I worry about rocks taking chips out of it. I think I'll end up using another product on my next car build.

    I finished up a lot of miscellaneous items like missing fuel and P/S fittings and lines, greasing the zerk fittings (you need 2 tubes of grease by the way, I went with Redline). My DS lower ball joint zerk was plugged/frozen and wouldn't accept grease so I ended up getting a Zerk Zapper tool to help get it clear. Other items included finishing up some small motor items, including removing header studs, putting the starter in, putting the hydro clutch bracket back on, sourcing and putting the transmission plugs and wires on, and fixing my rear motor lift bracket.

    Before I drop the motor in I wanted to get some of the wiring in where it would be difficult to access. It took a half day of reading the wiring instructions (Ford instructions, RF harness, and the FFR 'changes') to get my head around what they were advising to do. One of the biggest issues I've seen is that the FF instructions for the Coyote doesn't give you the background on what it is they are asking you to do/why you are doing it and it's for the prior model year motor so there's some recent changes that aren't accurate. My notes so far that may help someone else out:

    • I first started by installing the RF fuse box and loose routing the front and rear harness
    • Next I installed the Coyote fuse box on the fire wall, 250amp bar, and ran the Coyote harness from the computer to the driver side dash
    • In the most recent Coyote fitment instructions (version O) the speed sensor isn't needed so you can skip all that. The plug reference info is all different anyways (older model)
    • The orange fan line, this just needs to go directly to the fans and doesn't need to be routed back to under the dash. You won't need to brake into the black coyote box on the new version. I personally ran it back before I realized I didn't need to. Also, it references an orange wire to use the double fuse, it's red not orange (see RF instructions for more info). I just bypassed the RF fuse and connected directly to the front line.
    • Unwrapping the Coyote front harness helps in cutting out the two A/C plugs and supercharger line (IC Pump). I also pulled the blue starter line out back to the front firewall so I could drop it directly down to the starter for a cleaner run.
    • Unwrapping the Coyote harness, all the wires inside the loom are also fullly wrapped in electrical tape. It take some time. The safest way I found was to find the end and unwind it rather than cutting.
    • The power lines: I ran the battery line from the rear to the starter, wrapped it with the Coyote power line and pulled out the ground so I could route it to a closer ground near one the motor mount bracket. I ended up wrapping the whole thing in flex coil and taping it up so it was cleaner routing.
    • I used wire tie clips that rivet in to hold all the wires in place. These were very helpful and needed to be set before the motor goes in. Thanks Edward for the idea on this.



    Items removed:

    Wire tie clips riveted in place all over the engine bay and along the trans tunnel:

    Making a mess in the garage building an outdoor patio table:
    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:33 AM.

  9. #49
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    All looks pretty familiar! Good work. Followed everything you said and pictured with two exceptions: (1) Not clear what you're describing with the cooling fan wiring. None of the RF harness, fuses, relays, etc. are used. The cooling fan is 100% controlled and powered by the Coyote PCM. I broke out the fan cooling wire from the Coyote harness by the PCM and ran it forward to the cooling fan. Add a ground connection to the cooling fan and it should be good to go. Maybe that's what you're saying, but I wasn't sure. (2) I don't see a power wire attached to the front terminal of your PDB. Maybe it's just not there when you took the picture. There are two +12V sources for the PDB. One in a short pigtail (along with another ground connection) and another threaded stud on the front of the PDB. I buzzed out the connectivity of these two power sources to all the circuits inside the PDB. Odly (at least IMO) some are powered by one, balance by the other. So both are needed.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  10. #50
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Yea, sorry, was running out the door when posting and had a 3 & 5yr old pulling on my leg. The cooling fan is 100% controlled by the Coyote PCM. I was making reference to the FFR Coyote Fitment Roadster version 'O' instructions that I have where they say on page 77 that there are two ways to wire it. The first way says to run it back to the fuse box and basically setup a double fuse using both Coyote PCM and the RF fuse, which doesn't make a whole lot of since. On top of that their instructions are a little out dated in that what they want you to connect to has changed and doesn't exist. The only other orange wire under the dash is Aux 3 from the Coyote PCM. I'm going to tie directly into the blue RF cooling line running forward and use it basically as a jumper/extension from the orange Coyote line to the fans. The only reason I'm doing it that way is I had already pulled it back through and re-wrapped the main PCM wiring before I realized what exactly they were trying to do. It would have been very helpful had they provided the purpose of each step, not just take orange and connect it to blue.

    Yes, pictures are missing a lot for the power lines, including the short jumper from the PDB to the fuse bar. I was just going to run the power from the rear battery to the starter, then starter to the 250am fuse bar (with the small pig tail), then via the short jumper to the PDB. It would have been much easier, but I wasn't sure if there was some reason why ford wanted direct power from the battery to the PDB. To be save I basically ran a double line from the battery positive in the rear to the engine bay, then split one to the fuse bar and one to the starter. While doing this I took the PDB ground out (small pig tail) and sent it to the passenger side motor mount where I have a ground already (shorter run, less wires to the trunk). In addition I'm planning on getting always hot power to the RF fuse box via the 250amp fuse bar instead of routing it all they way do the starter. Should be a shorter/cleaner run.

    Right now the wiring is just a big dirty mess sitting in the car and I pulled all the power wires out while I drop the motor/trans in. My main goal was to figure out all the engine bay runs and where I need zip tie clips before the motor went in. I've wired 6 muscle cars before that I've rotisserie built and have always done it with the motor/trans in place. It's just a personal preference for me since that's what I'm use to. All of them however were simpler engines so this will take a few more cubic hours to get sorted out and finished.

  11. #51
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    You obviously have this under control. I was very cautious with the previous version FF Coyote instructions. Some of it was pretty OK (intake, fuel pump, DBW even though I did it a little differently, and gauge sending units) but the rest had so many changes on the 2015 Coyote I mainly followed the Ford Racing instructions. Hopefully FF will update their instructions soon to take out some of the uncertainty for future builders.

    I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm down to just the last few wires in the engine compartment. Easy enough to hook up. Just trying to do it as neatly (and hidden) as possible. Continued good luck with yours.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-18-2016 at 10:22 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  12. #52
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Motor is in, driveshaft is in, all the joints are lubed, radiator is in, and a few other little things are buttoned up. I learned that my first attempt at putting the motor/trans in was much easier when I had the motor/trans hanging at a very extreme angle (well beyond 45 deg). When it was at a shallow angle it took a little more man power to get it in. It still went in in about an hour though with the help of my father in law as an extra set of hands. The breeze fan shroud and lower radiator mount worked out perfectly, with the exception of the monkey installing it (me). When opening up the shroud holes to fit nutserts I was lazy and didn't take it off the radiator, resulting in the drill catching on the last hole and punching a nice hole in the radiator core. That was an expensive mistake on a brand new radiator. Oh well. Courtnie got me one asap. Next up is the motor bay plumbing, then onto dynomat and wiring.







  13. #53
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    So I spent some time with the P/S lines, radiator connections, intake, and vacuum lines today. What I learned that may be helpful:

    • I followed Edward's parts list on the radiator connections (Here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post220495) because it looked much more factory and I didn't like the idea of the corrugated FFR pipe they provide. On the newer radiators (Non-Afco units) the lower hose mount is at a different angle from what I can tell and it wasn't exactly plug and play. I ended up using some pieces that came with the coyote to make it all work. In the end it all fit.
    • You can see the mounting tabs I made for the Moroso mustang expansion tank. Again, very similar to Edwards. The lower tab support is needed IMO or you may end up with aluminum failure with vibrations over time.
    • All the P/S lines went together without issue. I added zip tie clips as needed to keep the lines routed as clean as I could get them and made sure they were all secure to avoid any vibration damage over time.
    • The intake and air filter presented more trouble than I was expecting. All are Forte items provided in his kit. See pictures below. The filter (K&N RU-2590) was simply too long at 7.5 inches and ran into the frame/panel. I ordered one 2" shorter today from Summit (RU-2520). It should work fine.
    • The parts supplied for the fuel regulator vacuum line aren't 90 deg. anymore and the FFR coyote instructions aren't the most clear. See picture below. This was a simple run to complete in the end.
    • The charge motion control valves (CMCV) on the passenger side was too short to reach the Specre tube so I pulled it apart and put an extension between the one way check valve to the intake.
    • Coyote intake vacuum port fittings were a challenge to find online. I ended up finding them with summit (VPE-2895). Vibrant Performance Hard Mount Aluminum Vacuum Fittings 2895. They are in route but should be the correct ones.


    Said pictures:






    And a quick image map for all the Coyote vacuum fittings. I had a hard time finding this anywhere so I figured a quick notation may help some people out in the future. Still a work in progress, but the heater bypasses will be connected together with a reducer. Not sure if a reducer is needed (probably not if I am reading the head diagrams correctly) and I haven't found it to be expressly stated in the '15 Ford instructions. I'm going to put a call into Ford before making up a quick brass inline reducer. I'm venting both valve covers to a catch can rather than sucking the oil back into the intake (doing a EPA exception).

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:34 AM.

  14. #54
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Several comments about your post.

    1. I agree with your plan to put a bypass between the two heater hose connections versus capping them as the FF instructions show. Ford Racing is pretty clear in their instructions that a bypass is good practice. I've not seen any instructions specifically for the 2015 Coyote version, but there's no reason IMO to treat it any differently. I found this thread on the other forum that gives great information about where to source the connectors, which I used and they work perfectly. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...er-bypass.html. I went ahead and also made a restrictor. May or may not be required but easy to do so why not. I found a bushing at my local Ace Hardware that fit the hose ID and I just had to drill slightly to get the required ID in the restrictor.

    2. I'm confused by your two CMCV vacuum lines. My engine only has one CMCV line, and that's the one on the driver's side. Following the routing of the hose through the intake it goes to a Y connection on the back of the engine and feeds both CMCV vacuum motors. The vacuum line on the passenger side on my engine doesn't go to the CMCV circuit. It goes to a nipple on the back of the intake manifold. Further research looking at a Coyote in a new Mustang, I found this vacuum line doesn't connect to the engine but instead connects to another hose going over to the power brake booster. So I removed the hose completely and used the vacuum connector on the back of the intake for the vacuum reference signal for the fuel regulator.

    3. I too am finding the combination of Spectre intake parts and K&N filter are a tight fit. Factory Five recommends an RC-5149, which is 6.5 inches long. That's shorter than the 7.0 inch RU-2590 that Mike provided to you, so I can see why you're having trouble. I was able to play around with the orientation and clamps and get about 1/4-inch clearance from the chassis, but after running the engine a bit it straightened back out and the filter is lightly touching the chassis again. Still thinking about what to do. I'd prefer not reducing the size of the filter, but that may be the only option.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-05-2016 at 06:09 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  15. #55
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Good point on the passenger side 'CMVC'. I double checked this morning and yes, you are right it runs into the intake. I'll probably end up doing the same as you did and just send it to the fuel pressure reg to simplify. Thx.

  16. #56
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Engine is all buttoned up. I ended up routing what I have listed above as the second (passenger side) CMVC which Edward pointed out was just a vacuum line off the rear intake directly to the fuel regulator and capping the old regulator line. Everything else went together as expected. My shorter air cleaner worked perfectly in the space.

    I spent a few nights getting the dash brackets created and mocked up. I ended up using mostly 1/4-20 nut serts to hold the dash and lower supporting brackets in place. A power plug and phone charger went into the lower bracket under the dash. The dash is the FFR provided plastic/pre covered unit with glove box. with 4 upper mounts and 3 lower mounts I'm happy with how ridged it is, even though it's just light weight plastic. Cutting holes turned out to be easier than I thought. I started from the back with spades on a drill and cut nearly through the black plastic. I finished the cuts, including through the padded vinyl with an exact o knife. It worked perfectly and was quick. The spedo has a little spacing issue though with the retainer ring, but I have some room for adjustments so it should be an issue.




    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:34 AM.

  17. #57
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Wiring is done and all buttoned up. It was actually way easier than I thought it was going to be. A few notes, the RF harness and coyote wiring set both had a lot of duplication for power runs between the starter, alternator, and battery. I simplified a lot of this by using the distribution block/fuse block on the firewall as an intermediary point. This allowed me to do just one 4 gauge line to the starter and one 4 gauge line to the alternator. I also took all the dash connections and made just about everything removable connectors (Delphi) so the entire dash can be unclipped and removed if needed. This included the starter cylinder. All the front/rear connectors will all get quick release Delphi clips too.

    My Hoosier R7 came in for the 17's along with my tredwear for the Avon 15's. The R7's are 245/45/R17 and 315/35/R17. The Avon tires are back ordered until mid Sept so they will be here a little later. My Spintech mufflers should be arriving early next week and I hear Gordon Levy is going to have my rear brakes and spindles packaged up and shipped out early next week. My seats should also be done in a week or so.

    Next up on my punch list is finishing up the aluminum install, Dynomat install, Vent duct and cable install, exhaust install and finalize, finish up the seat wiring when I get the seats and seat heaters back, rear suspension button up, then fluids and first start.







    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:35 AM.

  18. #58
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Small updates while I wait for the rear brakes to show up. I installed the BBK shorty Coyote headers and decided I didn't like the 17mm bolts that came with it. I've had other muscle car builds have header bolts back off after a few heat cycles and with the nearly zero access/space once this body is one I figured, nope, do it right. Ordered a set of grade 8 locking bolts. Ordered coarse instead of fine thread so back they went to summit and ordered the correct bolts this time.

    I fabbed up the 3" blast doors and manual controls on both driver and passenger side. Each side has it's own switch to control the fan under the center of the dash. I used a simple doorman manual choke cable kit. Simple but effective. I also put the rear sheet metal on for the final time and did a few wiring modifications on by the driver side header. Wires were a little too close to the pipes for my comfort. I also finished up the battery mount and wires. Went with a Duralast 34-AGM (type 34 battery).

    Next up is all the dynomat, the Breeze quick release hub, parking brake, clutch line install, and fluids. I'm hoping to have the rear brake parts from Gordon so I can make it a roller and bring it to the exhaust shop. Depending on timing I may end up just building a quick dolly for the rear end so I can get it into the trailer. We'll see. I suspect we'll have first noise in a few weeks. Technically I can just put fluids in it and light it off now using the side pipes I have on hand but not planning on using, but I would like to get the under car exhaust finalized first.

    Something a little off topic. I finally strapped a gopro to my kart on one of our Summer Tuesday practices. Video below.





    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:35 AM.

  19. #59
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    And with this bone-head move I get to take the opportunity to spend more money. New upper steering column from FFR, another Breeze quick release hub kit, and while I'm at it a second track only steering wheel since I'll have an extra quick release hub. That was an expensive 'ah sh1t' moment.

    Edit: Welded the spline on backwards.
    Last edited by Duke; 07-26-2017 at 08:11 PM.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duke View Post
    And with this bone-head move I get to take the opportunity to spend more money. New upper steering column from FFR, another Breeze quick release hub kit, and while I'm at it a second track only steering wheel since I'll have an extra quick release hub. That was an expensive 'ah sh1t' moment.
    I plan on using the Breeze quick release but haven't purchased it yet. No instructions posted on their site to know what the install steps are, so can't really tell what you did wrong. Are the splines simply welded in the wrong place on the end of the shaft? Do the need to be further towards the end?
    Are you feeling altruistic? Nobody wants to stew in their own unfortunate situation, but maybe you'll share for the benefit of the rest of us?

    -TJ

  21. #61
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepurz View Post
    I plan on using the Breeze quick release but haven't purchased it yet. No instructions posted on their site to know what the install steps are, so can't really tell what you did wrong. Are the splines simply welded in the wrong place on the end of the shaft? Do the need to be further towards the end?
    Are you feeling altruistic? Nobody wants to stew in their own unfortunate situation, but maybe you'll share for the benefit of the rest of us?

    -TJ
    Looks like he welded the collar upside down. I don't know what's going on at the top of that shaft but I cut off the last ~1" or so that is beveled before welding. Then I ground the top of the shaft flat after. Doesn't mean doing so is right or wrong, that's just what I did:






    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  22. #62
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepurz View Post
    I plan on using the Breeze quick release but haven't purchased it yet. No instructions posted on their site to know what the install steps are, so can't really tell what you did wrong. Are the splines simply welded in the wrong place on the end of the shaft? Do the need to be further towards the end?
    Are you feeling altruistic? Nobody wants to stew in their own unfortunate situation, but maybe you'll share for the benefit of the rest of us?

    -TJ

    Sorry, yes I welded the splined collar on backwards. There's great instructions with Breeze stuff by the way (on everything I've ordered from them). With the upper shaft I had to cut off the stock bevel before starting which shortened the shaft. I spent a lot of time mocking everything up but at some point I swapped the collar and never checked it with the quick release hub before welding it into place. The extra 3/8" extension I left on so when the quick release was mounted to the adapter hub it the center of the column would slide into the adapter hub. Not per the instructions but it would give the wheel/hub a little extra support. If it didn't work out I would have just cut off the extra 3/8" extension and have it flush like David's. I did bevel/chamfer the column and pre-heat it before welding to ensure proper penetration. The grinding on the end was my misguided attempts to get the retainer clip to clear when sliding the quick release hub on; not realizing it was backwards until I made enough clearance and found out it wouldn't lock into place. Doh.

    Courtnie was nice enough to sell me a new upper shaft on Monday so it should be in route in the next day or two and I ordered a second Breeze full kit. Since I now had a second quick release hub I also decided to reward my stupidity and order a second dedicated track steering wheel (driven wheel from Detroit Speed). I figured why not and it would give me a little more finger room between my gloves and the door when at the track, along with a better hand feel then then the wood. The wood wheel will be street use only from here on out. All in, the mistake ran an extra $450 or so. I also just crossed the 60K mark on the project too.
    Last edited by Duke; 08-30-2016 at 07:20 PM.

  23. #63
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    The build progresses. I received my seats back from the local upholstery shop. Overall I'm very pleased with the way they turned out. Comfortable, wired for heat in both the bottom and seat back, and the bottom is removable. Once the seats were back I was able to finish the heated seat wiring which allowed me to install all the dynomat. I ended up using 12 sheets total for reference. One box of 36sq ft has 9 pieces. Other items finished included e-brake install.

    My replacement steering shaft came in along with a second breeze quick release hub kit. My Avon tires also came in. The driven wheel is a very nice unit and should work just fine for track days. The install was straight forward this time without any mistakes. To get the driven wheel to work on the quick release I had to fab up a quick 1/4" spacer and got 6 longer bolts to make room for the horn button behind the wheel. One thing that I did that may help other tall guys is that I added some spacers on to raise up the upper steering shaft by about an inch or so. It's now lined up in the middle of the dash hole opening and gives me a little more leg to wheel clearance. I remembered the spring washers in the upper shaft this time too.

    In anticipation of first start I put on the Jpipes and quickly noticed that I have two problems. 1st, on the drive side they won't fit as currently packaged. The J-pipe flange bracket wont line up with the BBK coyote shorty headers as it hits the motor mount. I'll need to put a good size notch into the motor mount to make the holes line up. I'm still planning under car exhaust but I'll cut the J-pipe after the o2 ports and route it under the floor boards. 2nd, I still have my Alt, oil, water, and ground wires too close to the pipes. I'll need to route these behind the motor mount and add more shielding. One thing that was nice is that the Ford supplied o2 sensors fit. I was expecting to have to buy extended/longer o2 sensors but I won't have to.

    Still waiting on Gordon for my rear brakes/spindles/wheel. Last I spoke with him they were shipped so hopefully sometime next week. We were aiming for Aug but the first batch of brackets weren't right and had to be redone by the water jet contractor.







    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:35 AM.

  24. #64
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    Duke-

    I like those seat covers! They look really good on those low back seats. Did you use the Kirkey seat mounts to secure the seats to the frame you made? I couldn't tell in your pictures.

    Build is looking great, and it won't be long before you have her all buttoned up! I look forward to the first start, and go-cart right behind!

    Regards,

    Steve

  25. #65
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Thanks. I ended up making my own assembly to mount the sliders to the seats rather than using the kirkey setup. Here's a picture that may be more helpful. The seats bolted to 6 points on the frame. Two in front, 4 on the sides. I think you may be able to see the holes in the frame for the seat mounts.

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:36 AM.

  26. #66
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    Duke-

    Thanks for the explanation and the extra picture. The picture makes it much more clear! I appreciate the assist.

    Regards,

    Steve

  27. #67
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    It's alive. First start completed about two weeks ago. It took a few cranks before it pulled enough fuel into the line for it to start but once it had fuel it light right up. One small P/S leak which I quickly fixed. I also completed one heat cycle on the motor to confirm the fans work.



    Victory picture with my two little helpers:


    I've been slowly picking away at the remaining items in preparation for starting body work and waiting on my rear brakes. This includes re-routing the alternator, oil pressure, and water temp lines behind the motor mount/header to keep it away from the heat. I replaced my wire wraps around the headers with DE Cool Tape for added insurance. Roll bar and horns installed. I put the Tredwear 'GoodYear Eagle' lettering on the Avon's so they are ready to mount when I get my wheel back from Levy. The kit was simple to install using a sanding drum on a dremal to smooth out the mounting areas on the tires. I've also finished all my final wiring checks and only ended up with two issues. The first one I've described below, the second is something I'll fix near the end of the build: Setting the fuel gauge. The stock fuel gauge needs to be calibrated. I have about 2 gallons of fuel in it so I need it either empty or full to calibrate per speed huts instructions. I'll wait until I'm ready for a full tank of fuel then play with the settings.

    Regarding my other wiring issue: I haven't seen this posted anywhere so it may just be a single quality control issue but in finishing out my wiring checks I only had one issue: My temp gauge wasn't working. Everything else I did was perfect and I knew this was a simple connection so I suspected the thermostat was bad. Before I pulled it out I did a continuity check between the gauge and the block and found no connection. Tracking down the line uncovered a RF connector error. The water temp line and the fan thermo switch lines were swapped. Blue to teal and teal to blue. A simple fix and we are now confirmed on all wiring.


    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:36 AM.

  28. #68
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Congrats on the first start.
    On the fuel gauge I learned from EdwardB that the ohm setting it comes with is actually the proper calibration. I poured a measured 4 gallons in mine and it indicated just as expected. You may be good to go on that already.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  29. #69
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Thx, good to know. I have about 1.5 gallons in it at the moment and it's not reading anything. I'll test by pulling the sending unit out and checking it manually and also double checking the RF plug connectors again. I may have to replace the tank sending unit.

  30. #70
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    The build progresses. A big thanks to edwardb for figuring out the CMCV plumbing. I basically solved it the same way he did. Here's a link for what I'm referring to:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-CMCV-Plumbing

    I've started the bodywork, yay! Small steps, but I completed all the cut outs, added studs to the side vents and cleaned up the openings in similar fashion that EdwardB in his build thread did so that the opening angles match the angles and spacing of the vents. All body edges have been trimmed and cleaned up, including rolling the lips on all four wheel wells and adding a thin layer of 3M HSRF on the inside.

    The body went on yesterday for the first time. I've had it on and off 3 times now. I found it's helpful to have 3 people when doing this. My challenges with getting the body on and aligned first started with the front and rear body roll around the interior compartment. I hadn't trimmed the roll behind the rear seats or along the dash and found I had couldn't get the body even close to where I wanted it. After some trimming I was able to get it close. My next challenge was my dash was mounted too high. The body roll for the dash actually came over the top of the speedo gauge. TIP: if you are using the FFR pre-formed dash with glove box, don't mount the corners of the dash even with the 3/4" tubes. The dash should be lower by about 3/8" and the 3/4" tubes exposed above the dash line. I was able to build and install spacers in my upper mounts, along with longer bolts to get it moved down where I needed it. My third hang up was the rear trunk aluminum. I needed to trim this by about 1/4" in order to have enough room to move the body forward by about 1/4" and have the body clear the door striker posts. For reference, my first install was with no seals, and subsequent body installs were with all the bulb seals in place.

    Glass fitment and spacing is next up on the list. I've replaced the brass strips with with stainless strips from Withby. I'm planning on dry fitting everything with the body on, marking my holes in the support arm brackets, then drilling and tapping 1/2-13 holes similar to EdwardB's build thread. Once the body is off I'll build spacers so the glass isn't under any stress, then when the body is back on do final adjustments on the openings. One thing of interest, I'm planning on running both visors AND the FFR soft top. Since the visors have to come off for the soft top anyways I'll use square nuts in the upper channel to (1) prevent cracking the glass and (2) allow for easy removal since the soft top uses this channel for the header bar. I'll end up keeping tools to pull the visors out or make up some quick release type connections and keep it in the soft top bag in the trunk.

    News on the rear brakes, Gordon has them completed and they are in transit. He's done an amazing job and spent countless hours this year on them. More on this when I get them in. For parking brake, we're planning on a pinion brake between the driveshaft and the pumpkin, using a Kart disk. More on this at another time.





    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:36 AM.

  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duke View Post
    News on the rear brakes, Gordon has them completed and they are in transit. He's done an amazing job and spent countless hours this year on them. More on this when I get them in. For parking brake, we're planning on a pinion brake between the driveshaft and the pumpkin, using a Kart disk. More on this at another time.
    Duke,

    Definitely post pics of the brake setup from Gordon. I've talked with him several times and I'm ready to order once back in town from a work trip. We discussed parking brake options and I was originally planning the line-lock hydraulic option over the kart setup but in WI I haven't been able to track down requirements. To the best of my knowledge, there actually isn't a requirement at all. There definitely isn't a registration inspection with the "hobbyist/collector" registration I'm going with, since I've already registered a rock crawling Jeep that way. We'll see which way I go....

    -TJ

  32. #72
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    First, a big thank you to Mr. Gordon Levy over at http://levyracing.com/ for making this happen. His countless hours and many designs he went through, all while managing his own customer builds and motors truly shows his dedication to this niche of the hodrod world. For those of you who haven't followed my build, about a year ago I choose to venture down my own path and ordered my roadster with the new 2015 IRS and planned running 15" wheels on the street. This along with the T56 Magnum transmission made for a uniquely challenging build.

    After countless designs trying to integrate a parking brake into an area that just wouldn't accept it we finally arrived on the design to incorporate a Kart disk as a pinion brake. This little disk and the spot caliper will sit between the driveshaft and the IRS pumpkin and should be more than sufficient to pass my state inspections. These brakes, along with my front cooling ducts should be a good match for the Hoosier R7's I have mounted to my track tires, while allowing me to run the classic 15" wheels and Billboards (Avon's & Trendware) on the street.

    Thank you Gordon for the spindle machine work, brackets, and figuring out how to make all this work:

    L]


    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:37 AM.

  33. #73
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    IRS installed, brakes finished (minus parking brake) and bled with Motul 660. First 'drive' was successful as I just backed it out and into the trailer. Exhaust was finished up by the guys at Lou's custom exhaust in Worcester. They did an awesome job with SS pipe and exactly to my specs. The spintech's sound so much better IMO than the side pipes. Pointing the exhaust back and to the center also helps in keeping the passengers from smelling like exhaust every drive and helps remove the side pipe ear sting that I never really liked. I'm going to pull the pipes off and hit them with a high temp black exhaust paint to help it blend in a little better. I still have some work to do with heat shields. I'll need one on the driver side for the brake lines and another small section on the rear fuel line. The Avon's are also mounted on the 15's along with the trendware kit. Very pleased with how it turned out.

    Small steps forward, followed by small steps backwards. When I went to drill/tap the wheels and mount the spinner caps I realized I was missing 4 for the 17's and one of the spinners for the 15's came frozen (yes the set pin was removed). No matter how much I worked it, heated it, etc. it was simply stuck. Courtnie was gracious enough to quickly send me a replacement and the 4 missing ones. I'll need to run all 8 of them through the polisher at some point though to clean them up a bit as the finish is 'close'.

    With the first 'drive' I also found a P/S leak in the upper input shaft of the rack. It took half a day to pull it out, but it turns out it's possible to remove without removing or loosening the radiator. Dropped it off at Mike's this afternoon and he's going to get a replacement rack for me and put the inner tie rod extenders in and the rack limiters. The rack needs limiters on both sides as the tires get into the brake lines/side panels at full lock on both sides. Hopefully I should have it all back together by end of next week.






    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:37 AM.

  34. #74
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    A few more of the exhaust:




    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:38 AM.

  35. #75
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    looking great! I would love to hear the exhaust if you get a chance to take some video at some point.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  36. #76
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Small details. Lots of little time sucking items that make you feel like you haven't progressed very far. That's whats been going on in recent weeks. I've pulled off the exhaust and painted it with exhaust VHT black, pulled out the rack and replaced it due to a leak without pulling the radiator out. Turns out you can do it. I also replaced and fixed some of my return lines that were leaking, one at the reservoir and one more on the line back to the pump. Teflon tape and P/S fluid apparently don't mix.

    Rack came out no problem:


    Another item that took some time was drilling and tapping 16 holes in the wheels. Two set screws per wheel x8 wheels, a little anti seize and we were all good. The spinners definitely need to be run through the polishing wheel though. They were a little rough on the finishing.


    I received my tune and nguage from Lund racing and have been working with Jon to get everything where it needs to be. It's interesting to hear it run fine, but after 5 data logging sessions it's clear to see how far out it was stock vs with a correct tune. We've been chasing some idle trim level settings and temp readings in the 02 sensors. I just received a replacement set of 02 sensors to see if that helps fix the issue and I've fabricated an air shield around the intake filter. It turns out while data logging we realized that when the fan kicks on it blows so much air around the filter that it's causing some issues with the MAF. Very interesting stuff and I'm wondering how much if this may have been attributed to the stalling issues some people were experiencing in the first gen coyote builds a few years ago. A few more rounds and we will probably have it all sorted out and finished.


    Another challenge on the P/S setup was getting the right length belt. I'm 4 belts in and I think I may finally have the right one. The first two were very loose and were slipping at full lock causing a major squeal. The first belt was a 060455, then we went to a 060450 but no luck, the tensioner was still very loose and I could move it by hand to take the belt off. 060432 was still short to get it on, and now I'm on 060439. I haven't fired it yet but I'm hoping my squeal at full lock goes away.


    Finally, before the body goes back on I put the windshield on and measured for spacing. On my build it's about two washers thick for a spacer on each side. Ace hardware had double thick washers available to a little epoxy and we're all set. I ground the windshield posts at a 45 deg angle so they slide around easier.


    At this point I'm ready for the body to go back on, final tuning/data logging sessions, and do a final mock up on everything that touches the body before I blow it all apart and start on the body work.
    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:38 AM.

  37. #77

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duke View Post
    [/URL]
    Duke,

    Are you sure that your State (Taxachusetts) will pass your car with the exhaust exiting under the car?
    If you live in the North East, it may be problematic getting through that process.
    If you were down in the South where I am, then I wouldn't be worried about it.

    Steve

  38. #78
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    From what I've read it shouldn't be a problem. The emissions will be the fun part as I'm planning on doing a federal EPA exemption, which means buying a pre 73 car with a similar size motor and having it crushed.

  39. #79
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Success on the P/S belt size. No more whine at full lock.

    I've been chasing some computer/tuning challenges over the past 6 weeks or so but I think it's all sorted now. Once we were able to get the data log where it should be the PCM was throwing the P0116 code. After a lot of conversations with Ford and my tuner the PCM went back to ford on their dime to get updated. Once back in hand I copied the new stock PCM file, sent it to the tuner who was able to identify all the things they said they changed (and more) and update this tune accordingly. We've now back running with solid data logs and no codes. I'm just awaiting the cammed tune and we should be finished.

    I completed the laundry list of all the small stuff that had to hit the body before paint. Including the standard door latch mods, panel fitment, etc.



    Small mods to the doors to get the striker to sit right:


    In Mass I need a rear plate and a backup light so I copied another form members idea:

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:38 AM.

  40. #80
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Undercoat completed with some help from my girls. I decided on bed liner rather than the spray on Fusor as the bed liner is a lot harder and the Fusor stays soft and can scratch off easily.




    Speedway honeycomb to protect the radiator. The entire radiator area will be blacked out when done.


    Home center created charcoal canister (1.5" PVC and active carbon)

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:39 AM.

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