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Thread: #8793 MK4 Build ('15 IRS, '16 Coyote, 15" wheels)

  1. #81
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    And on with the body work. Lots of work putting it all together for final mock up, blowing it all apart to paint the underside of the body, then putting body and panels back on and aligning everything again.


    ]

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:50 AM.

  2. #82
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Body panels. Overall they are in really good shape (coming from someone who usually has to replace floors/quarter panels, etc on most projects). It's been discussed a few times in various bodywork threads but I'll try and supplement as I go through the process. The body seams were mostly in good shape, with a few pins and small voids that needed to be ground out. I took a 40 grid 2" wheel to the seams, then followed it up with a 80 grid DA sander, followed by 3M HSRF. Over the HRSF I'll be using rage gold premium for most of the final filler work. My goal is to get it very close with the gel coat before applying a high build primer.

    Half the work is easily in the panel alignment and doors. Hood/trunk lid are mostly okay in that once you get them level it's just a trimming exercise. The passenger side door is very close after you push the lower lip of the body all the way against the frame. I'm not thrilled about the CNC trimming of the lower door edge though. The gap is a little larger than I like (maybe a full 3/8"). At the moment that will dictate the gap for the entire edge. I'll probably end up filling it back to get the gap similar to all the other panels at 1/4".

    It's been mentioned many times, but I'll say it again. The driver side door mold sucks. Basically the lower, front half of the door curves in too much and the lower rear half of the door is too flat. Even after adjusting it every which way and pulling and pushing the lower body lip in and out it's still just a mess. If you align the lower area to get it closer the upper door/body isn't even close. There's a lot less work to do from what I can tell if I align the upper part of the door and fix the lower. This requires the body to be pulled very far out in rear though to align the door with the rear body door frame area/wheel arch. I only have less than 1/2" of 2x2" frame to attach the lower body lip to once the body is pulled out and that will also require a spacer before attachment as it's standing off the frame by nearly a full 1/2". Regardless, it's ugly and will require a lot of hours and adjustment to get right.


    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:50 AM.

  3. #83
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    I cant understand why they cant do a better job on the drivers door?! Glad to see the build update and look forward to following your progress with the body work.

    Glad to see your pcm came back and the tune is going well. I was planning to email you this week and see how it was coming. I still am unsure on how I want to proceed in regards to a tune. At some point will you be getting some dyno figures?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  4. #84
    Member Lancaster Lad's Avatar
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    Interesting idea using masking paper for the rear suspension protection. The last car I painted was in the 70s.
    I have all the equipment but don't know if I have the drive. Might be easier for me to call Mr Jeff ( west coast ).

    To get off topic. Have you received the parking brake components from Mr Levy yet? I ordered and received
    my 2015 15" brake package. Nice pieces. Just need parking parts to determine lever placement.

    Thank you for the pioneering effort in this matter. And a thank you to Mr Levy.
    MKIV 8851 Complete LS3 376/480 4L70e Auto 2015 IRS 15" Wheels Rear Exhaust

    Ordered 2/25/16 Delivered 3/26/16 Still building 1/1/22

  5. #85
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Thanks,

    Gordon emailed me last week that the first run of the brackets are back from the water jet and look good. He's awaiting a free lift/car to do a final mock up. I'm hoping to have brackets for parking brake by end of month. I suspect I'll have to order a custom cable length between the handle and the spot caliper. The only thing that I'm mildly concerned about is any vibrations that may be caused from the parking disk being slightly out of center. With any luck it will be spot on and no issues but we'll see. Right now I'm at perfect 0 deg on the trans and the rear end is +.75 deg (just above zero). I think that's okay given the rear housing, trans mount, and motor bushings all move a little under load.

    Re: masking paper and plastic. I figured someone was going to bring that up. I'm not sure if it helps or just gets in the way at this point. The plastic is to help keep some of the dust out of the motor/dash while dry sanding. I tend to make a huge mess while sanding. So far it hasn't been in the way much. The masking paper is actually much thicker and just two large pieces of tracing/template paper that I just threw in to help point the dust off all the rear suspension pieces. Everything will have to get cleaned but the idea is 2 minutes of work may save an extra hour of cleaning later. No idea if it will work or not.

    Scott, no plans for dyno, but with my propensity to dig deeper I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up on a dyno sometime in the next year or two. I'm aiming for somewhere around 450/400tq at the rear wheels as my goal, but it's not a hard or set number. If I was really wanting to push it the first step would be custom headers/removal of the J=pipe that I cut up for my under car exhaust. I bet I have 20-30hp on the table with just that but it's not worth the headache and 2K at this point for me to fab it up.

    Last data logging session on the motor came back perfect with the O2's reading all correctly and the fuel trim spot on. Awaiting the same tune with the cams rotated at idle. When I pull the body off or first primer I'll roll it out and see if I can get a good audio vid of it with the go pro. I think the sound will change your mind on the tune

  6. #86
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    Duke-

    The shot of your girls painting is priceless!

    Congratulations on the progress. It's coming together nicely. I have enjoyed following along!

    Good luck with the body work. I am not looking forward to tackling the driver's door, and hope it goes easier for you than it looks!

    Thanks for letting us follow along with your hard work.

    Regards,

    Steve

  7. #87
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    [*]Unwrapping the Coyote front harness helps in cutting out the two A/C plugs and supercharger line (IC Pump). I also pulled the blue starter line out back to the front firewall so I could drop it directly down to the starter for a cleaner run. [*]Unwrapping the Coyote harness, all the wires inside the loom are also fullly wrapped in electrical tape. It take some time. The safest way I found was to find the end and unwind it rather than cutting. [/LIST]


    Items removed:



    When you prune back these legs, is there a standard practice for terminating the wires? I chased the purple wire from the A/C clutch and the red wire from IC Pump back to the Power distribution box. Can I cut these wires and seal them off? The black wires from each run up to the common ground on the other side of the fire wall I assume? The three wires for the AC Pressure run to the big connector to the PCM. Just cut these off near the connector and seal? Yes, wiring rookie with enough information to be dangerous.

    Any help is appreciated.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  8. #88
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    When you prune back these legs, is there a standard practice for terminating the wires? I chased the purple wire from the A/C clutch and the red wire from IC Pump back to the Power distribution box. Can I cut these wires and seal them off? The black wires from each run up to the common ground on the other side of the fire wall I assume? The three wires for the AC Pressure run to the big connector to the PCM. Just cut these off near the connector and seal? Yes, wiring rookie with enough information to be dangerous.

    Any help is appreciated.
    -Steve
    I don't know if there's a standard practice. I can only say what I did. I pulled quite a bit of the Coyote harness apart attempting to make the most efficient routings. But I didn't tear any more than necessary apart just to track down the wires from these unneeded legs. Wherever they ended up once I was done deconstructing, I cut the wires and shrunk a piece of adhesive lined shrink sleeving around the ends. Then wrapped everything back up. I'm careful to have a clean end so there's no copper sticking out. Plus if there are multiple wires cut off, I offset them so the ends aren't the same length. Even if the sleeving should come of (which with the adhesive lining it's very difficult) nothing is going to short out. Some guys bend the ends over and shrink over that. That also makes a nice secure termination. But a little bulkier.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #89
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    On construction equipment wiring harnesses we would cap off any unused connectors with a mating connector with sealing plugs inserted into the wire cavities. This maintains the weatherproofing and allows for future addition of options but is by far the most expensive method!
    Edwardb's method of using adhesive lined heat shrink tubing is effective and far less costly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post


    When you prune back these legs, is there a standard practice for terminating the wires? I chased the purple wire from the A/C clutch and the red wire from IC Pump back to the Power distribution box. Can I cut these wires and seal them off? The black wires from each run up to the common ground on the other side of the fire wall I assume? The three wires for the AC Pressure run to the big connector to the PCM. Just cut these off near the connector and seal? Yes, wiring rookie with enough information to be dangerous.

    Any help is appreciated.
    -Steve

  10. #90
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Body work progresses. The 3M HSRF is incredibly hard material and very difficult to sand. Having to do it again I'm not sure I would have used it on all the body seams. I ended up having to knock it down with a D/A sander at 80 grit, then skim the entire thing again with Rage ultra. It would have been much faster to just use the Rage ultra, would have saved me 16hrs or so thus far.

    Anyways, a few pictures to show progress. I'm using a guide coat to get the entire body close before I epoxy seal and prime with a high build primer. I took time to show the driver side door and where I had to attach the body to pull the quarter out. You can see how far out it is from fully flush (note the FFR holes when they attached the body). I marked in the dust the major low areas that need to be addressed. The entire door will get a few coats of filler to get it all where it needs to be. Using nights/weekends I probably have a solid 40hrs at least before it's ready to prime.

    So far, I would say the 80hrs are accurate *if* the door mold was fixed. I probably have 40hrs in it thus far with panel seams and body seams and another 40 to go before prime. My guess is another 40-60 after that to get to final polish (including wet sanding, prep, paint, clear coat sand and final polish). All in, probably 140 hrs would be my guess.

    Oh, one note. If you are using durablocks, pitch them and get AFS sanding blocks. Much more flexible/adjustable for these curved bodies. I'm primarily using the 6" hand and the 15" block with all 3 supports removed.




    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:52 AM.

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  12. #91
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    To fix that drivers door without 2lbs of mud, I put a screw through the lip of the body and into the frame, you can then pull the body in and adjust the door properly without spending hours and hours filling and sanding. You will need to trim the filler plate that goes on after the body has been painted, but it works and its easy.


    sometimes I do this on the passengers side as well.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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  14. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Duke,

    Are you sure that your State (Taxachusetts) will pass your car with the exhaust exiting under the car?
    If you live in the North East, it may be problematic getting through that process.
    If you were down in the South where I am, then I wouldn't be worried about it.

    Steve
    Undercar exhaust is certainly not an issue in Massachusetts.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  15. #93
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    To fix that drivers door without 2lbs of mud, I put a screw through the lip of the body and into the frame, you can then pull the body in and adjust the door properly without spending hours and hours filling and sanding. You will need to trim the filler plate that goes on after the body has been painted, but it works and its easy.
    Thanks for the suggestion. This would definitely work, but it would also put a lot of stress on the side of the body. I'm sure it's fine long term though. I've already started muding the door so I'm committed at this point.

  16. #94
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Sanding, sanding, and more sanding. Body is ready for primer, passenger door done, now finishing up the driver door. Still have the hood and then back side of the trunk/hood/doors to get into shape. If all continues to go as scheduled we'll be sealed/primed on the 29th and ready for final color sometime mid/late April.

    The driver door: Ended up putting a few layers of HSRF to build up the gap before getting into the rage ultra. In theory it should be a little stronger.I threw in an ugly shot of the door since you don't typically see photos after a bunch of mud has been put down. From here I'll use an air board to get it into rough shape quickly, then skim coat the whole thing again and block it out by hand.



    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  17. #95

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    That's One Ugly Door!

    > Thanks for showing these pics, especially the drivers door it in it's worst state.
    > I'll soon be doing the same and like you won't be tweaking the body to make it fit the door since that seems like the tail wagging the dog in my book.
    > After seeing how much mud it takes, I think I'll build up the lower section of the door with a few layers of fiberglass mat because of your concerns.

    Good Luck & I Am Sure Your Car Will Turn Out Great!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 03-19-2017 at 07:00 AM.

  18. #96
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    > After seeing how much mud it takes, I think I'll build up the lower section of the door with a few layers of fiberglass mat because of your concerns.
    HSRF is cheaper and a lot faster IMO, and just as strong. You can definitely get away with just using Rage on the whole thing too if you want. I'm just doing overkill. The lower front is out about a full 1/2", which puts it at 1/4 - 3/8" HSRF followed by Rage. 2 Layers of HSRF sanded in between got me to 3/8" in under 3hrs and ready for the first of a few layers of Rage. I would thing glass would be at least a day of drying time and a lot more DA sanding or air board sanding to get it close to smooth.

  19. #97
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Off to primer tonight. Spent the better part of the day cleaning up the body and the garage. What a mess.
    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  20. #98
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Primed and moving forward. Here's a shot of the black epoxy sealer I shot last night right before getting into the 2K build coats.

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  21. #99
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Prime on, sand off. Handful of Advil, rinse and repeat.

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  22. #100
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Body is all blocked out, final coat of primer has been applied, paint purchased, and wet sanding nearly done. Booth time scheduled for Weds and Sat for final paint. It's getting close now.


    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  23. #101
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    looking good Ryan. I was just wondering about your progress this weekend. Cant wait to see the paint.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  24. #102
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Undersides of panels done:


    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  25. #103
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    6hrs at the booth, from rolling out of the trailer to finish baking and paints done. One more item checked off the list. I'm very pleased with the way it turned out. Very little orange peal so that should help with the buffing too.





    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:54 AM.

  26. #104

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Looks Fantastic!

  27. #105
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    Wow, can't argue with pure black. Awesome.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  28. #106
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    congrats Ryan. Looking great.
    Am I understanding correctly that this is sort of a DIY booth you are renting time in? That sounds pretty cool.
    I still don't know much about paint work. Is that common?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  29. #107
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    congrats Ryan. Looking great.
    Am I understanding correctly that this is sort of a DIY booth you are renting time in? That sounds pretty cool.
    I still don't know much about paint work. Is that common?
    Hi Scott, it's a full production body shop with down draft booth, not a DIY type place. It's very unusual for a shop to even consider something like this. I had to ask a lot of body shop owners in person before I was lucky enough to talk someone into it, and it required a fair amount of cash and had to be on a weekend that didn't interfere with their main repair schedule.

  30. #108
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    It's starting to look familiar...

    Color sanding and polishing is all done (3M Perfect it Trizact). So far everything is going together smooth. I've purchased a car to have crushed for Mass registration and emissions exemption. Just awaiting the new title in my name before I send it to get crushed. I'll do a whole new thread about that and scan all the paperwork the RMV and MAC sent me. I have all the Mass steps in writing now from the MAC and haven't seen it posted anywhere before.

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:54 AM.

  31. #109

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    One Worthy Word:

    Wow!

  32. #110
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Looks awesome Ryan! At first I thought you had done some ghost stripes but upon closer inspection realize that is the reflection from the ceiling. Paint work looks very nice.
    I am excited for you to get registered and on the road. I will be interested in hearing your feedback on your custom tune. Still on the fence to stick with stock for my street driving or contact Lund.
    Did you install the decal on the engine cover yet? Also excited to get a look at that!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  33. #111
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Decal is still sitting here on my desk. It will go on near the end when I do the other body emblems. Thanks for putting that together again.

  34. #112
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    Great Job! Congrats!
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  35. #113
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    It's coming together. I ditched the seat sliders to get me a little lower in the car and remounted the seats to the floor. The final punch list is getting shorter now. Carpet, final light wiring, soft top install, mirrors/a few other small items, etc. I've also started the long journey of getting it register in Mass, including buying and having a car crushed to get an exemption on emissions. Here's the link to that info if anyone needs it.
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...irect-from-MAC

    Gordon's parking brake that came in this week. This should be more than sufficient

    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:54 AM.

  36. #114
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Parking brake, done (minus the driveshaft bolts, they are now in).



    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:54 AM.

  37. #115
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Graduation pictures:








    Last edited by Duke; 05-25-2018 at 08:55 AM.

  38. #116
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    So, I'm officially registered and nearly done at this point. A few updates with 50 miles on the car:

    I had the car corner balanced and aligned at a local specialty shop. Final weight was 2,410 with 1/4 tank of fuel. I have all the corner weights, but front/rear was 46.3% front, 53.7% rear. 23lbs of air pressure and they adjusted the sway bars for me as well.

    Front license place is needed for inspection so I ordered a Breeze kit. Unfortunately this looked like it was designed for an older model as the mounting holes were horizontal instead of vertical. I ended up drilling a new hold and having to open up the center section that slides behind the front turn signal light. I then cut the ears off (part that the plate bolts to) and used the bottom mount, cut the long part off that mounts to the bottom of the body and used it as the top. Now with the plate mounted to the removable bracket I can take it on/off quickly with 2 wing nuts and with the bracket painted black it's hardly noticeable without the plate on it.

    No leaks or other issues with the first 50 miles of driving. I'm not too pleased with how soft the Dupont Chroma premier paint/clear is, even after baking. I ended up peppering the spats (lower front of the rear fenders) in just 10 miles of driving around the block. Today I had some 3M clear bra material applied by a local shop. They did the rear spats, top of the doors, and several areas on the front nose. I'm extremely pleased with the work as the seams are nearly invisible.

    Soft top: Wow. I'm very impressed by the quality, design and fit/finish. It took about 2hrs to install on a fresh car and takes about 10m to put it all together once you get the hang of it. I used square nuts in the upper channel for the visors and carry a ziplock bag and a small screw driver and allen wrench with the top so I can quickly pull them on/off when putting the top on. When I got out of the car for the first time I managed to catch my shoulder on the vent wing and crack it in half. It's since been replaced by a quick call to FFR to order another set. With the top on the vent wing won't pull all the way in though. It will either hit the wooden header bar for the top or hits the door paint. If I want to ever run vent wings and the side windows I'll need to cut my own vent wings.

    When I installed the A/C foam between the body and the foot boxes in front of the doors I didn't realize it needs to go up nearly all the way to the windshield. I'm getting some hot air through the top of the door while driving. I have more foam I'm planning to install in both sides to finish it up.

    Seats/Belts. My wife declared she's never going to drive it so I ditched the seat sliders and just mounted the seats to the floor. This gave me another inch of head room and put me further down. I'm pleased with where I sit now. So much for all the fabrication work on the sliders. For belts, there's only one option that is safe for a 4 point system, and that's Schroth ASM belts. I didn't want to use the 5th point and wanted cam locks instead of latch for my girls/passengers so this was a worth while upgrade. The shoulder pads also help for comfort. If you are using 4 point belts on the street and they are not ASM, do yourself a favor and research it. It's much more dangerous than just lap belts. With the ASM design it keeps the lower belt from riding up in an impact and doing damage to the internal organs. I've hit the wall in a few race cars before in Schroth and I trust my life to these belts. Best in the business IMO.

    Steering Breeze quick release hub: Fail.
    I have 2 of the kits, both have way too much slop/play and it makes the steering uninspiring. I've used NRG in race cars before and they are solid, but too big. With a recommendation from Jerry at European Performance Engineering (local Porsche shop I had the alignment/balancing done at) I picked up a Rennsport quick release. Absolutely rock solid. Courtnie is sending me now my 3rd upper steering column. It will require me to drill/tap new holes to get it all mounted but I'm confident it will solve my issues. The funny/sad thing is that I'll probably be north of $2K into the entire quick release attempt when I'm done. I will probably end up with a second Rennsport quick release for my Driven wheel at some point over the winter.

    My brake fluid reservoir caps (FFR ones) had two of the three of the seals fail. One broke (clutch) and spit a little fluid out while the other (rear brakes) has age cracks all over the rubber. I think they may have just sat too long in someones inventory before being shipped to FFR. Again, Courtnie was nice enough to send me 2 more.

    Driving experience thus far:
    It's taken some getting use to. The suspension is extremely stiff, and with some recent road repairs going on locally it's down right jarring. I went as far as pulling of one of the shocks to make sure I had it on the softest setting, and I did according to Koni's website. Steering is very sharp and the car reacts very similar to my Karts, I just need to clean up the quick release hub play. The fiberglass body being fresh is still making a little noise as it settles down. I wasn't expecting that, but I guess I should have being it's fiberglass. Exhaust noise, I'm extremely please. I'm going to have to get some video with a good microphone to explain, but the spintechs are perfect for this motor and the Lund tune. At idle it's mild, after 2,500 or so it just gets angry and has a nice tone to it. With the exhaust exiting under the car there's no sharp pipe noise like I was hearing with the FFR side pipes. With the 6th gear at 65 mph I'm only turning about 1,500 RPM and it's quiet enough to have a very normal conversation. Gearing is perfect IMO with the close ratio T56 Mag 6-speed trans. I haven't 'given it the beans' yet, but the 1-2 shift at half throttle breaks the tires loose, even with the sticky 80 tread ware Avons. Overall, I'm just about to the point where I start to enjoy the driving and stop paying attention to all the noises and double checking everything.

    Next up: MAC final inspection to sign off on all the emissions exemption paperwork for the car I had crushed so I don't have to ever put Cats or any other emissions stuff on the car. It will forever be emissions exempt. Other items include setting up a photoshoot for it, bedding the brakes and adjusting front/rear balance, some general sorting out and putting a hell of a lot more miles on it before the show comes.

  39. #117
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Well done and congrats!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  40. #118
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Nice writeup, Duke, on starting life with an F5. Congratulations on a beautiful machine.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  41. #119
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    Car is beautiful! What yard did the crush for you? Thx Chuckster

  42. #120
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckster View Post
    Car is beautiful! What yard did the crush for you? Thx Chuckster
    Car Heaven in Berlin. They paid for the car and picked it up for free. Three items to note if you are doing it. (1) Make sure you have confirmed with the MAC tech that the car qualifies, I had him check 20+ cars from craiglist before I found one that worked. (2) make sure you have proof that the title/registration is in your name (photo copy everything) and (3) Make sure you talk to them about signing the paperwork before it's picked up and give the driver the signature page with a self addressed stamped envelope.

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