Cam seals, crank seals, and timing belt

[Pearldrummer7]

Hi all-

I've never done timing on a DOHC Subaru motor. I've seen images where you hold the belt with vice grips so only one cam can move at a time, and I've heard only the driver's side intake cam wants to move.

Any other advice or tips for doing cam seals (lubricate!), crank seal, and timing components?

[john g]

I purchased the Lisle tool for cam sprokets, $29 if I remember correctly. Well worth it. We replaced the belt, water pump, and idler pulleys but did not touch the seals.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

[STiPWRD]

The cam gear tool really really helps. Otherwise it can be virtually impossible to remove the cam gears even with an impact gun. If you try using the belt to stop the gears from moving, it will slip. The P/N for the tool I used on my 02 heads was 499207400. The tool will make life much easier. You may as well replace the valve cover seals while you're at it.

Also, it is vitally important to follow the FSM and not turn the cams in the wrong direction when installing the new timing belt or you could easily bend a valve.

Finally, count the marks on the timing belt and place the belt per the FSM. The marks are not symmetric so the belt only goes on one way. If you put the belt on the wrong way and then try to rotate the cam gears to match up with the marks, you could bend a valve.

[FFRSpec72]

I purchased the Lisle tool for cam sprokets, $29 if I remember correctly. Well worth it. We replaced the belt, water pump, and idler pulleys but did not touch the seals.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

crank

Agree, you may also need a crank pulley tool.

[Sgt.Gator]

Everything StiPWRD said. I hope you have the FSM. If not, PM me.

Did you take the crank pulley off yet? If not there are some tricks to that but I'll stick to your question directly.

The company 23 cam tool to hold the driver intake cam still, for both removing and installing http://www.company23.com/subarutools/501 You'll need a different type for the other ones, they are all on the Company 23 website. They are worth it!

If you are replacing the cam seals you'll need to take the cam bolts out. Most people don't replace them unless it's a full head rebuild. The reason: Be prepared that you may strip the head on the stock cam bolt. When that happens, which it does all the time be prepared to do this:


I keep my old axle nuts just for this purpose.

When you replace all the timing pieces the FSM says to use Loctitie on the belt tensioner, personally I use Loctite blue on all the timing parts bolts, and the timing belt guide bolts. If any of those bolts gets loose it can be really bad.

When installing the timing belt it's MUCH easier if a friend/relative/spouse holds the Company 23 Intake Cam tool steady while you thread the belt around. It can be done by yourself but it's a lot easier to ask your spouse to hold it for 2 minutes.

Finally, my very own Colonel Red Racing Seal Installer. I modeled it after the Subaru ST for installing axle seals in the tranny, but it turns out it's perfect for that and the oil pump seal, and the cam seals. It's made out of heavy duty plastic and works fine with a rubber mallet. Since it's plastic and not steel, if you screw up and smack it too hard and off center you won't bend any metal edges on your engine or tranny, the plastic will give first. If you'd like to obtain one shoot me a PM.

Multi Seal Install.jpg...Oil Pump Seal Install 2sm.jpg

[DMC7492]

You tube! I did a search many months ago and found great video and details on changing all components! A video is worth more than words. I watched at least six different clips on the tricks to doing it correctly and the belt will come with detailed instructions..