Oil Pan depth

[RickP]

I have built a 331 stroker which has a Milodon pan (31125) mounted. The motor is targeted for an MK4 yet to be built. My concern is the pan depth (8.25") will extend beyond the bottom frame tube. I bought the oil pan from summit under their recommendation so I do have some wiggle room to exchange it if needed.

Do you folks anticipate a big surprise on my part?

[RickP]

I think I have my answer 7.25 max depth

[edwardb]

There are some minor variations depending on engine mounts, etc. But for that engine, 7.5 inches is the usual max depth for the oil pan. Many choices in the market for that size pan. You will definitely want to return/exchange that 8.25 inch pan. It will hang below the frame.

[RickP]

I'd rather head that off now while I still have the motor on a stand, Thank you very much for the info!

[RickP]

Canton 15-640 I think will do the trick. It's kicked out on both sides but not by much. And it's stroker clearenced.

[RickP]

Hmmm. 13.5" is the width of the kick out. Wider than I thought.

[Bigtim01]

I have a Kevco pan, no fitment issue.
Part # F901 | F902 | F903 | F904
Cobra Kit Car Pan Rear Sump
HTH
Tim

[edwardb]

I used this Moroso 20509 Street/Strip Oil Pan 20509 on my 347 Mk4 build. Seen pretty clearly in this picture the day we dropped the engine in the chassis. It's wide too (sorry I don't know the dimension) but it's pretty wide between the engine mounts and chassis tubes. There are a number of 7.5 inch depth options out there.

[rmiller64]

photo 41.JPG

Used a Cobra T-Pan the measured 7.25 in. and sits above the Round tube frame

[RickP]

I used this Moroso 20509 Street/Strip Oil Pan 20509 on my 347 Mk4 build. Seen pretty clearly in this picture the day we dropped the engine in the chassis. It's wide too (sorry I don't know the dimension) but it's pretty wide between the engine mounts and chassis tubes. There are a number of 7.5 inch depth options out there.

That Moroso Pan is 13" at the kick outs. If you fit with no issues I should be fine. I'm a 1/4" bigger on both sides

[edwardb]

That Moroso Pan is 13" at the kick outs. If you fit with no issues I should be fine. I'm a 1/4" bigger on both sides

Yes it fits, no issues. The build is done and driven one season. I can't tell you exactly how much clearance because the car is in winter hibernation at an off-site storage location. But I'm positive there's much more than 1/4 inch clearance. The frame rails are on 24 inch centers, so not even close once it's in place. The motor mounts are somewhat less, but it fits through easily.

[RickP]

New pan is on it's way. I'm really glad I piped up as I'm fairly certain I just avoided an "oh crap" moment. Took me six months to build this motor up from an 87 block and I'm really happy with the result. Thank you to everyone for the advice

IMG_0275.JPG

[edwardb]

New pan is on it's way. I'm really glad I piped up as I'm fairly certain I just avoided an "oh crap" moment. Took me six months to build this motor up from an 87 block and I'm really happy with the result. Thank you to everyone for the advice.

Your engine looks great. That front accessory setup is impressive. I hope for your sake it fits OK. The high mounted alternator may get in the way of some common upper radiator hose routings. But something can work. Others have been mounted that way. But your power steering pump/reservoir is going to be close (hopefully not close...) to the steering column, and that deep lower crankshaft pulley is going to be close to the 4 inch cross chassis tube. Have you been able to check your layout and dimensions against an actual chassis? Don't want to alarm you, and hopefully as I said it will work OK. Here is a pic of the same general area of the DART 347 in my last Mk4 build, a bit later in the day from the picture I posted before when we dropped it in. You can see the real estate around the front of the engine.

[RickP]

No, I haven't been able to dry fit against a frame/chassis. The alternator doesn't have me too worried as you state, something can be worked out there but the pwr steering pump and crank pulley certainly have me concerned now that I examine your 347. It's really tight in there.

[edwardb]

No, I haven't been able to dry fit against a frame/chassis. The alternator doesn't have me too worried as you state, something can be worked out there but the pwr steering pump and crank pulley certainly have me concerned now that I examine your 347. It's really tight in there.

Today I had to go over to where my completed Mk4 is stored to get a couple measurements and pictures for the new build. I checked under the hood to refresh my memory (always important...) and see the crankshaft harmonic balancer and pulley are well above the cross 4 inch chassis tube. You will not have any interference from the tube. Sorry for any undue alarm there. With the deep pulley you have, it may not be possible to use a front mount battery (e.g. Breeze) like many of us use. But that's OK. Lots of good choices for the battery. The jury is still out on the PS pump and steering column though. I haven't installed an engine driven pump on that side, so can't cite personal experience. But I've heard about interference issues with certain pump/reservoirs. I think it's mainly an issue with a 351 block due to the higher deck height. But it's something to keep an eye on.

[RickP]

well I certainly do appreciate all that you have conveyed. The serpentine pulley system is from CVF Racing out of Minnesota. Very nice folks. If I run into an issue with the steering pump, maybe they will have an option for me. And I'm not opposed to running manual steering altogether.

Thank you very much for checking that cross member clearence. At least the crank will clear. Phew!

Very nice stroker you have there btw.

[KDubU]

Nice looking engine! Really like the bling and the blue covers.

[RickP]

Thank you Kyle. Just hoping it fits.

[Norm B]

Really nice looking engine!

I have the V belt setup from CVF and originally had my power steering pump in the same location. There was an interference problem with the steering shaft. While searching for a solution, I found a post on the forums about modifying the steering shaft with an extra universal joint. I decided to move the pump higher and closer to water pump. My power steering pump bracket was home made and not nearly as nice as yours so, modifying the steering shaft might be a better option for you.

Good Luck
Norm

[RickP]

Really nice looking engine!

I have the V belt setup from CVF and originally had my power steering pump in the same location. There was an interference problem with the steering shaft. While searching for a solution, I found a post on the forums about modifying the steering shaft with an extra universal joint. I decided to move the pump higher and closer to water pump. My power steering pump bracket was home made and not nearly as nice as yours so, modifying the steering shaft might be a better option for you.

Good Luck
Norm

Norm, thank you for the post. And especially a pic of your motor (very nice). I see you cleared the steering shaft by quite a bit. I was wondering if the sterreing shaft could be modified. Good to know I have that option. Also, the CVF bracket that the pwr steering pump is mounted allows the pump some latitude to be shifted towards the water pump. How much, I don't really know. I might have to search out a shorter belt. Else keep the setup I have and modify the steerin shaft.

I'm new to this forum and already I am getting some serious valuable insight.

[karlos]

Been watching this thread with some dismay, as my 427 crate motor has a rear sump pan that measures about 8.5" deep. An inch or so lower than the frame rails, and right in the center of the chassis (front-to-back), does not sound like a recipe for success. So I guess I need to do some oil pan shopping. Sigh...

My crate engine uses a Boss 351 block. Anybody know if there are any differences between the Windsor and the Boss blocks that might affect the position of the pickup tube? Based on photos I've been able to find it appears they're the same, and that I should be able to use any pan / pickup tube combo that works on a Windsor, but I really don't want to guess and be left with another nasty surprise. Thanks for any insight.

[RickP]

Been watching this thread with some dismay, as my 427 crate motor has a rear sump pan that measures about 8.5" deep. An inch or so lower than the frame rails, and right in the center of the chassis (front-to-back), does not sound like a recipe for success. So I guess I need to do some oil pan shopping. Sigh...

My crate engine uses a Boss 351 block. Anybody know if there are any differences between the Windsor and the Boss blocks that might affect the position of the pickup tube? Based on photos I've been able to find it appears they're the same, and that I should be able to use any pan / pickup tube combo that works on a Windsor, but I really don't want to guess and be left with another nasty surprise. Thanks for any insight.

I'm not really sure of the difference bewtwen a Windsor block vs. a Boss block but if your going to change out your pan to a shorter depth one as I did, you want to change out your pickup. You would want a p/U tube matched for your new pan and block/oil pump.