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Thread: Ideas for seating wheel studs in hubs for 2015 IRS

  1. #1
    Member pstockha's Avatar
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    Ideas for seating wheel studs in hubs for 2015 IRS

    I'm doing a MkIV with the IRS and 17" Halibrand replica wheels sourced from FFR.

    I'm working on seating the replacement wheel studs in the hubs after knocking out the original studs as per the directions.

    The directions call for using a washer and lug nut to pull the studs into place on the hubs:

    IMG_0366_proc.jpg















    but even using a stack of washers to keep the lug nut closer to the end of the stud I find that I have to use A LOT of force to pull the stud in.

    So I have a couple questions:

    1. Anyone have clever solutions for holding the hub firm while doing this work? I'm using a bench vise but the only place to grab is the raised area around the stud hole (on the back of the hub face), which isn't square so doesn't provide a solid place for the vise to hold. Holding on the bottom of course allows the hub itself to spin, which isn't helpful.

    IMG_0368_proc.jpg

    With this arrangement I find I keep twisting the hub out of the vise as a result of the force I have to apply to pull the stud in. I'm leery of using a vise on the hub itself for fear of crimping it through the clamping force required.

















    2. Is there anything I should be doing to keep the studs straight? From what I can tell, the best you can do is eyeball them to make them as close to plumb as possible relative to the hub and then count on the pulling force to self-straighten as the seat, but it seems like there must be something I'm missing.

    3. Any better options aside from brute force pulling the studs in using the lug nuts?

    Thanks as always for your kindness and help.
    Paul

  2. #2

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    I too tried the vise route because it was easy but I ended up breaking my trusty 6" vise. I had put some pretty good force on that guy in the past with no issues so it does take some extreme pressure to get them to seat. I have a little 12 ton press that I should have used in the first place that did the trick easily.

  3. #3
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    I just bit thebullet and took them to my local machine shop and had them pressed in for a minimal charge. Had him cut the sway bar rod ends cut while I was at it.

    Rick

  4. #4
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    If you don't have access to a press, I would try putting grease between the top two washers and using an impact gun. Don't put it in a vice, just hold it on a wooden surface with a good leather work glove.

    I have also cheated (not on a roadster) by getting the studs started, then installing the hub on the vehicle and using the brakes to hold it while pulling the studs home. Don't know if this is an option for you.

    Good Luck
    Norm

  5. #5
    2bking's Avatar
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    Like Norm B said, use oil/grease on threads and an impact gun. It will either seat the stud or break it.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  6. #6
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Use grease on the threads and on all the washer surfaces. Also go to your local hardware or auto parts store and get plain 1/2-20 lugnuts. The kind w/o that shoulder.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-611-016/overview/
    Use them upside down so the flat end is against the washers. that helps keep them straight as they begin to pull into position. I always use a 1/2 drive impact.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  7. #7
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I too tried with a breaker bar, but also couldn't hold the hub. X3 on the impact gun. That's what I did. I used a few hardened washers, a hardened nut, and lubed them up. I just happened to have a 1/2-20 hardened nut in my junk drawer. If I hadn't found one, I would have visited my local Ace first. I didn't want to take a chance on chewing up the lug nuts. It was right at the limit of my pretty cheap impact gun, but they all pulled in.
    Last edited by edwardb; 02-09-2016 at 01:37 PM.
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  8. #8
    Member pstockha's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies and ideas guys!

    Off I go to the h/w store.

  9. #9
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    A hundred bucks and a coupon from Harbor Freight will get you a small press that should do the job - and will be invaluable during other parts of your build.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  10. #10
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Plan on using my impact while holding it in my 8" vice (with wood jaw spaces). If that doesn't work then off to the machine shop

    https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2763-22

  11. #11
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    I used a vise and clamped the flat part with body sitting on back of vise. Since I don't have a compressor, I bought this cordless impact wrench: Ingersoll Rand W7150-K1 1/2-Inch High-Torque Impactool, it's pretty amazing, pulled every one in completely flat. I used a couple of washers, it did however mark up a couple of the nuts given the torque on the wrench, easy enough to replace.

  12. #12
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    I guess I am lucky - I just use my shop press...

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