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2003 WRX Donor Teardown
Hello everyone, I am new to the this forum, but I figured I would add my tear down thread, knowing that I will need assistance during this build.
My donor is a 2003 WRX with about 198K miles on it, but the motor was rebuilt about 50K miles ago. The car was involved in an accident that you can see in the photos below. I purchased the car from the person that wrecked it for $2500. Overall it is in decent shape, although the radiator will need to be replaced.
My 818C is set for completion on 2/20/16 and Stewart Transportation is set to pickup the following week. Basically I am now knee deep into this project.
I have spent the last few days tearing out the interior and I am just about to start the engine removal. I will post pictures as I take them and keep everybody updated. My goal is to have the donor torn down and gone by the time the 818 shows up at the door. I am already excited and having fun, and looking forward to the project.
I am sure I will be here often looking for advice.
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Congrats, it looks like you should easily be able to make your $2500 plus plus back by selling of parts. As someone else has mentioned there are people out there looking for stuff you wouldn't think anyone would want.
Enjoy your build.
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
Do your self a big favor. Do not get rid of any donor stuff unless you are positive you won't need it for your build. Ask me how I know this. 3 times I had to go to bone yards to complete the donor items.
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Moonlight Performance
Congrats! Looking forward to another active build thread.
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Senior Member
Great ! Let us know if you hit any roadblocks, were here to help and learn
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thanks for all the comments. I spent a bunch of time this weekend continuing my teardown. I have a bunch of photos saved here if you want to take a look. I am just about ready to drop the motor, but I cannot get the two interior bolts on the lower control arms to come loose. I have used penetrating fluid, a breaker bar and impact gun on them, but the two interior bolts on both sides will not come loose. Any advice for removing those, other than cutting the LCA's out?
thanks
Here is the link to the photo album
https://goo.gl/photos/6nXksdNZKFZ9Z8U8A
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Senior Member
I added leverage to my breaker bar by cutting a 10 ft piece of pipe into 6 and 4 ft pieces and then sliding one of them over the breaker bar. HTH
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Thats a good idea, I will give that a try tonight. thanks
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Moonlight Performance
If you don't have a cheater bar, you can get one at any hardware store. Best to use is steel plumbing pipe (the kind with the pipe-threads cut into the ends). You can usually get a 4' or 6' section for like $8 and they are big enough to get a breaker bar into and stronger than you would ever need. I got one at home depot like 10 years ago. Not often used, but VERY valuable when you need it.
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Senior Member
I use my jack handle
P1040817s.jpg
I broke a high quality breaker bar on this project.
What bolt are you having problems with?
front.jpg
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 02-17-2016 at 12:12 PM.
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The bolt I am having trouble with is the one that attaches the rear portion of the LCA. the part with label 6 in the picture is the bracket that I am referring to. The LCA is still attached to the car. I was able to remove the outer bolt on that bracket, but the inner bolt on both sides will not break loose.
thanks
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I also use the pipe over a breaker bar approach, but did break a couple of Snap On sockets in the process. I have found heat to be the solution to all stubborn bolts. Just think about what else is close by so you don't light the donor on fire and take the garage along with it.
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Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil + heat. Let the Kroil soak in for an hour, if it doesn't come loose use a Bernzomatic or electric heat gun. Works great.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
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SUCCESS!! I visited Home Depot last night and for about 12 bucks purchased a 1" by 4 foot piece of plumbers pipe. Went home, and not 10 minutes later had both bolts out, and a little less than 30 minutes later had the engine sitting under the car on my four post lift. Now I just need to figure out how to get it out of there. I think I may need to remove the suspension parts and then I can drop the trans and motor through the middle of the ramps on the lift.
Thanks for all the suggestions!!
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Moonlight Performance
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